67gtcougar

My AC problem (compressor not operating while car was not in motion) was resolved after a second trip to the service department. The tech discovered that the AC fan connector wasn't snapped in all the way. It works great now. It was probably disconnected when the transmission was replaced. I can definitely hear the fan running whenever the AC is on now.

I figured the service tech would have thought to check the codes. He did say that the compressor was very noisy though, and it would cost $2,800 (including the diagnostic fee) to replace it. He added that it wouldn't fix the problem. Thanks.

I have the same issue on my 2013 Energi. The compressor rarely operates when the car is stopped, but when the car is in motion it works great, even in Phoenix. I took it to the dealer, but the tech had no idea what was causing it, but did charge me $350 for his time. When I start the car and turn on the A/C, the compressor runs for about 1 minute, before shutting off, then will run for about 10 seconds every 2 minutes afterwards, but blows warm air. If I then drive the car, the A/C works fine, until I stop for any reason. I replaced the evaporator temp sensor, and the cabin air filter. I rarely use the A/C, so I'm not sure when this problem started. I mentioned to the Ford service representative that I didn't think the condenser fan was coming on when I dropped off the car, but not sure if needed to, especially since it wasn't that warm out at the time I checked it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Glad you figured it out. I haven't been on this forum since I repaired the seat release.

I decided to repair the cable with bicycle parts. The cable housing was badly damaged, so I bought a piece the same size from a bicycle shop. I also bought a shifter cable and a cable ferrule to attach the old Z-end to the new cable. After assembly, I made sure that cable and housing wasn't being pinched when the seat back was laid down, which caused the original cable to break. I tried to find a cable with the same size barrel end (5x8 mm), by settled on the shifter cable with a different end. Be careful when when reaching under the seat, there are a few sharp edges that can cut your fingers.

The lever quit working on the right side of our 2013 Energi last week. I was hoping it would be an easy repair. I will pull the seat soon and see if I can't repair it myself. Update: I dismantled the lower part of the seat today, and found the problem. By the way, you need to remove the 2 bolts in the front of the seat with an 18mm socket then lift up the bottom of the seat, and remove some of the trim to get at the bolts holding the actuator. The actuator cable was broken right where the sheathing was pinched. The sheathing splits into 2 pieces, so I was able to take it apart and use vise grips to pull the cable to lower the seat back. I found the part on the FordUS website for $134.69, and I will call my local Ford dealer tomorrow to check their price. I guess a cheaper fix would be to substitute bicycle brake cables and sheathing, or just reattach the vise grips to the broken end of the cable. Actuator Part #: 96613A68 Ford Parts Logo (Fix or Repair Daily ? ) Usage: 07/23/2012 - 04/26/2018, C-MAX Energi 2014-2018 (CCG) Section: Rear Seat Base Most parts available next business day. Your Price: $134.69 MSRP: $134.69

I also replaced the right axle, and the toughest part was refilling the tranny. Good to know.

They use Mercon LV in the transmission. Probably QLVC is the transmission fluid, which isn't listed on my invoice. The transmission isn't actually sealed. If you pull either axle shaft, the fluid will leak out.

Picked up our CMAX Energi yesterday from our local Ford dealer service department after the repair. They had it for about 8 days. The eCVT failed with 63K, and mostly electric miles. The build date was 12/22/2012. They reported that the differential and transfer shaft bearings were pitted, and performed TSB 18-2328 to replace HF35 transmission assembly. Several parts were included in the invoice including brake cleaner, sealant, and anti-freeze, but ATF wasn't listed. I hope they didn't put the old stuff back in.

I know how to disable the dome lights, but I haven't been able to disable the exterior lights.

We went car camping over the weekend. Opening and closing the hatch and doors several times really took its toll on the voltage. It was down to 11.7 volts the first night, so I turned the car on to give it a short charge. I kept about 5 miles range on the lithium battery, so I didn't have to start the ICE. Too bad Ford doesn't let us disable the lights, especially with the small 12 volt battery. Since the trip to the dealer I haven't seen voltages higher than about 12.5, and usually they are closer to 12.2 after the car has sat for awhile.

The just found this thread this morning. ...Interesting information. Until I had a dead battery this weekend I didn't pay much attention to this problem. Now I'm logging the voltages and trying to see what caused the problem. Our car never sits more than overnight, and if I measure the voltage in the evening, it hasn't dropped more than .3 volts by morning. The car is going to the dealer this morning, and I'll make sure to tell them about the TSB. I noticed the evening before my battery problem that the level 2 charger was still running after 5 hours, so I shut it down. Perhaps a stuck relay? I wish I had measured the voltage then. A bit ironic that leaving the charger running possibly caused my battery to drain. I couldn't honestly answer the poll, since I'm reading different voltages almost every time I check. I have seen 12.2 - 13.1 volts. Before charging I usually see 12.2 - 12.6 though. ...Car is back from the dealer. They load tested the battery, and updated the firmware to keep some module from draining the battery when the car is parked. When my wife drove it home (about 3 miles) and plugged it in, it wouldn't charge until she turned on the ignition.

I also saw the voltage start out at over 14 volts and then read somewhere over 13 when I arrived with the car still running.

Thanks. That looks almost perfect. I just ordered a bunch of stuff on Amazon yesterday. Could have got free shipping. My wife had already put the car on the charger before I had a chance to get the initial reading after her last drive. I turned off the charger and it read 11.9 with the door open and 12.2 with it closed. When I plugged it back in it started charging the 12 volt battery. I drove the car 3.5 miles one-way, and the voltage was over 13 every time I checked while it was running. It would be nice to record it real-time to get a trend.

Thanks for the update. Now I wonder if I'm wasting my time taking it to the dealer. I will also try your test. Could you check the voltage before and after your trip? Also please note if the battery cooling fans are operating. If there is a load on the battery it will definitely dip down a few tenths of a volt. I might try to purchasing a cheap car voltmeter that plugs in to the 12 volt socket to monitor the battery voltage all the time.

Has anyone seen an improvement since the "fix"? My Energi is going to the dealer tomorrow. I saw 12.3 volts yesterday after the car had been out for a quick 3 mile drive and then sat for about 2 hours. (Earlier in the day it was driven about 18 miles total and recharged.) Every night I'm making sure that the voltage is closer to 12.9 volts, or I'm charging it with a 12 volt charger to make sure that my wife can use it the next day without any problems.

I have had this issue a couple of times. One time I had to start the car to get it to charge.

I thought my Energi was immune to this problem until a couple days ago. The battery was dead 2 days in a row. This morning it read 12.9 volts, and it was fine. I plan to connect my Fluke Multimeter to one of the 12 v power outlets, so I that my wife or I can check the voltage everytime we park the car. I don't want her to get stuck and have to wait for a jump start. I noticed that the car doesn't always charge the battery when it is plugged in. When the voltage was at 12.6 with the doors closed (no lights etc...) the 12 volt charger kicked in when I plugged in the 240 volt charging station cable. At 12.9 volts, the voltage actually dipped slightly when I plugged in the charging cable. Update: The voltage read 12.35 volts when I got home today. Lower than I have seen so far, but still enough to power up the LCD and lights. My wife only drove it less than 3 miles, so didn't plug it in right away. (She did fully charge it earlier after driving about 15 miles). After plugging it in, the voltage jumped to 13.25 volts, but dropped to about 12.5 after the big battery finished charging. I've never seen a battery behave this way. I'm guessing it is a charging issue.

We bought our CMax Energi on Feb. 7th, and thought we were immune to the battery problem until yesterday morning. Also, the night before my battery died I noticed that my Level 2 Charging station continued to stay on even though the high voltage battery was fully charged. I turned off the charging station and later unplugged the cable. When I opened the door, the doom lights flashed and I got a message on the LCD screen "Battery Saver - System Off". When I plugged 240 volt charging cable back in, the dash lit up like normal and I was able to run the car. This morning the condition was worse. When I opened the door the dome light came on, but nothing else. I tried plugging the 240 Volt charging cable in but nothing happened. I then used jumper cables to get the car running again. The MFM hasn't been working since April 26th, but after the jump I got the notification: "[your car] had experienced a fault while charging. Please verify that there isn't a problem with your power source. If the problem persists, contact your dealership." Crap! My car was probably built in January, but I haven't received a recall notice.

Installed the hitch receiver this morning. Removing the plastic wrap packaging was the first big challenge. Second was trying to bend the tab enough. Thanks for the advice.

I signed up for HF online yesterday, but no ads yet. I searched the internet just now, and found the coupon you were talking about. Thanks! If I drive up to Harbor Freight today, will the box fit in the back of the CMAX? And yes it fit... Picked it up yesterday afternoon. They were sold-out at the local HF, so drove to next nearest store. My (Energi) battery was depleted about 4 miles into the return home, so I had to switch to hybrid mode. I've already assembled it. Now just waiting on Torklift Central to ship my receiver. This should come in handy.

I think we will also try this out. Does it seem sturdy enough? Looks like cargo under 14" tall won't block the license plate. If we decide to buy a box later, we will need to also get a wire harness for the lights.

We do plan to visit friends and relative in Michigan some day, probably after the kids are grown, but this summer we are headed south to visit Phoenix and the Grand Canyon. I guess you probably didn't mean Michigan, since you are living in the Bay area. We will swing through Sacramento on our way to visit old friends, but don't have time to hit the coast. We just now ordered this hitch from Torklift Central. We could have just driven down there and picked it up, but Seattle traffic isn't that much fun. I didn't try the link, I justed googled torklift central cmax and it came up.

Thanks for sharing. I can't make up my mind which way to go. I've heard that roof top carriers can significantly reduce MPG. I wonder what effect a hitch mount box would have on MPG. We are planning a long trip through the Southwest this summer, and need cargo room. I thought about the getting the hitch carrier that you bought, but I think I will need a box to protect our stuff. About a year ago I saw a slightly used Thule hitch box on sale at REI for less than 1/2 price, but I didn't have the need then.

Has anyone purchased a roof top cargo carrier for their C-Max yet? I've been researching the Thule Pulse L and Force, and Yakima Rocket. I'd like to find something that is low profile that doesn't protrude over the windshield. I had planned to install a reciever and buy a hitch-mount cargo box, but then I found out that it isn't super easy to install a trailer plug for the lights.