Highway

NEW QUESTION: I have had a '13 SEL hybrid for 3 years; now approaching 90k miles. I have had zero problems with transmission and try to look and listen for cues discussed on this site. In the next 6 months I'm planning to make a couple of road trips, probably 2 or 2.5 k total miles on each trip. My question--if a transmission issue starts to develop on these trips, under most scenarios can I expect to be able to drive/limp home before dealing with replacement? 2) Any symptoms I might be aware of during a trip to signal possible rapid deterioration and need to have it looked at before driving all the way home ? I would trust my home-base mechanic to competently replace the trans; would hope not to have to take pot-luck on the road. Thanks.

Hi all---I've just been reading this stuff as a precautionary measure as I've been driving a '13 SEL for 2 years now; got it at a very good price and love it, so would consider transmission replacement if it comes to that. It's at 86k miles now and expiration of the warranty is approaching with no apparent issues, at least non apparent to me. As for the thread: numerous mentions of leaks and checking fluid levels. I'd welcome some amplification. Where are likely places that leaks might be observed (besides the garage floor, which is fine). Similarly, where to look to "check" fluid levels. Finally, anybody got any stats on what % of these cars complete their useful life (would be 200k miles or so for me, typically) on the OEM transmission? Thanks-as a certified mechanical idiot I appreciate all the advice and commentary.

I have had a '13 SEL for a couple of years. Absolutely love the car. Apart from maybe 1 or (post-Covid) 2 road trips a year most of my driving is to town and back, 20 miles roundtrip. I presume most of that shouldn't be burning much gas but my mileage has never been higher than the high 30s, and mid-30s is more typical. With electric being the wave of the future I am seriously considering getting a '17 or '18 Energi. Would hope to trade in the SEL and probably wouldn't get much for it. But the '17s and '18s seem VERY reasonably priced to me even with low miles. I 'm aware of the trans issue on my current car but don't have a good feel for the odds that I'll experience that (10%? 50%?) So, my questions: Any material difference b/t the '17 Energi and the '18 Energi? Apart from leather seats what else does the Titanium buy you? Prices for the ones I'm seeing online are all over the map and MANY seem to have sat on dealer lots for months so I'd think there's a bargain to be struck. Thoughts? THANKS.

For no apparent reason the volume in my i-phone 6 has suddenly reduced so that it's barely audible. I went thru all the phone adjustment tabs on the Dash but see no volume control. I would be happy just to unpair the damned phone (nobody asked me if I wanted it paired) but can't figure out how to do that either. Volume on radio/cd player etc works normally and adjusts normally. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not easy enough for me. It's a '13 SEL. Thx!

Glad to report problem fixed. Best I could do with Greg's advice was hang the fob on lampshade nearly touching the lighted bulb. These modern bulbs don't throw out much heat tho. After a couple hours of that tried again. I think the heat helped some. What helped more was instead of trying to twist the blade of the srewdriver in the slot to pry the fob open, I applied the force straight up (the video does suggest this as an option). When you're prying straight up the plastic in the slot doesn't feel so vulnerable so I pushed quite a bit harder and at least created a crease in the side of the fob that i could get the screwdriver into and finish the job. Now has been reassembled and working ok despite 5 degree temp. Still a lot harder than it needs to be. Am going to try applying some very light coating to the edges of the top and bottom of the fob (bar soap?) before reassembling again. Thanks again Greg.

THx Greg. I'll try that. Hot sunny days are scarce here in Wisconsin these days. But I can afford to wait for spring! Or try a sunlamp.

I've had a '13 SEL for 20 months. I have two keyfobs. Recently got "Key Not Detected" dash warning in cold garage. I guessed the fob battery went dead and I found this TERRIFIC video on youtube addressing this topic on the model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofRVyP4PAzg I replaced the battery on Fob #1--no problem. Car now working fine. However....Trying to replace the batter on Fob #2, once i remove the key from the fob I CANNOT pry the fob opened to expose the battery. Have a perfect sized screwdriver that worked on Fob #1. I twist it quite hard (obviously worried I'm going to break the plastic) and it doesn't budge. Try to "lift" it; Ditto. Any suggestions? I wonder if I can soak it in something or spray it? I have NO IDEA why the first one separated and this one doesn't--except for the fact that this is an incredibly stupid design. Don't get me started on having only a push-button ignition and a spare "key" that doesn't start the car. (I know I know I've read here about the workaround, but C'mon.) For the most part I LOVE this car but this system strikes me as too cute by half. Thank You. I love this forum and only wish I didn't have to consult it so often to figure out this or that.

Recently had my '13 SEL hybrid (not an Energi) "go dark" a couple times. Kind of scary! Took it to dealer and got the 12-volt battery replaced. To prepare for future possible "go dark" moments, I want to buy a portable charger for the 12-volt battery to keep in the car. In shopping for it at Autozone their book did not tell the the amps specification for that 12-volt battery. What's the answer? THANKS for any help.