bad decision

't find my post about the bizarre problem with my antifreeze, no clue what made that happen -- or the "you have damaged your powertrain, do not drive" message that was meaningless (I just rebooted and it went away). Fun times! I was uncomfortable with what seemed to be a little sexism (though maybe you'd have said the same if you were married to a man) ... it's a simple enough thing for most people to do without your being "around" -- but the salient thing here is, YES, so glad you found out that this is an omnipresent problem with these jalopies, and I'm so glad you got it resolved! YAY

I don't know how to reply to specific people on this weird board. Anyway, I am very gratified to have helped beeewell (I rarely check comments here) and others; it really gripes my cookies that these cars have this "bug" and the dealers make BANK on it. I too got a "new batterY" the first time and it is clearn, now, that I did NOT need one. What a racket! The first time it happened to me the radio froze -- would not turn off, station and volume could not be changed, etc. So of course it killed the battery. Dealer was clueless and wasted time on diagnostics; another time the radio was "absent" entirely. Other times it just flails and won't stay on any station. None of it is important, because pulling the 79 fuse has ALWAYS resolved the issue. I had another very weird experience with this zany car, the interior lights came on and would not turn off! It happened overnight and of course the battery died. I don't care any more about dead 12v batteries because it takes about 60 seconds to hook up the aikar and zap the voltage back up (though the battery doesn't hit a full 12 volts, ever, which is problematic, it should be hitting 12.5 but WHATEVER!). The last time the battery died it was at just 3.5 volts (!) -- yes I have a voltmeter -- yet the aikar charged it immediately, I didn't even have to turn the key. Those little portable chargers are the BOMB (even used mine to charge phone when our house had a power outage). Keep spreading the word people, fuse79! And no, it is not a "bad fuse," the fuse itself is FINE (at least it always has been for me, and you don't need to "wait" after you pull it, just pull it and put it back in. The station settings don't even go away. Weird-ass car. I ca't find my post about the bizarre problem with my antifreeze, no clue what made that happen -- or the "you have damaged your powertrain, do not drive" message that was meaningless (I just rebooted and it went away). Fun times! I was uncomfortable with what seemed to be a little sexism (though maybe you'd have said the same if you were married to a man) ... it's a simple enough thing for most people to do without your being "around" -- but the salient thing here is, YES, so glad you found out that this is an omnipresent problem with these jalopies, and I'm so glad you got it resolved! YAY

no I was not going downhill.

Hybrid Member 2 2013 SE, 55k miles. Was driving along and noticed my MPG dropping and dropping and dropping on the display. "Hm, why is that happening, the engine isn't on and I'm not braking, I'm just driving." Looked at the display and it said "charging HV battery." But why? Not "acceleration" and not "normal operation" and not anything else; the battery gauge registered more than 3/4 full (and anyway, why would the car be charging it without gas or brake?). I don't recall seeing this mystery -- anyone else?

Was driving along and noticed my MPG dropping and dropping and dropping on the display. "Hm, why is that happening, the engine isn't on and I'm not braking, I'm just driving." Looked at the display and it said "charging HV battery." But why? Not "acceleration" and not "normal operation" and not anything else; the battery gauge registered more than 3/4 full (and anyway, why would the car be charging it without gas or brake?). I don't recall seeing this mystery -- anyone else?

To all of you with this problem -- DO NOT GET RIPPED OFF BY DEALERS. you don't need a new battery (such a ripoff) or software reset or APIM (someone wrote APIC, I think that's a spice, LOL).....it's a quality glitch (as in, POOR QUALITY). Buy a portable charger (aickar is my choice) and just keep it in the car. But most importantly, when the radio starts having seizures (won't turn on, won't turn off, won't respond to volume/station commands), just pull that 79 fuse (it does not need replacing! and yes, I find pliers work much better than the little fuse remover thing that comes with the car!) and put it back in. voila, problem solved. It really really REALLY grinds my gears that these Ford dealers are ripping people off, the techs either DON't have the training or choose not to tell you; people are having their cars TOWED, and/or dumping them (makes sense, given they are lemons but). People are waiting days while the cars are "in service" and paying hundreds or thousands of dollars for unnecessary testing/procedures. First and only domestic car I have owned -- definitely also the last.

Yes, it's the entertainment/radio system, and it's annoying but it's easily managed. DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER, do not replace software, DO NOT REPLACE BATTERY or APIM. When the electronics fail, pull fuse #79 out (under the glove box) and put it back in. That will reset the radio and whatever else. If you do nothing the battery will eventually die, and then you can do what I do: use the portable charger you keep in the back specifically for this purpose (conventional jumper cables are a nightmare inside that cramped engine compartment; buy an aickar). If you pull the fuse soon enough, the infotainment will reset and the battery won't die, but if you have to leave it overnight or longer, it may; the portable charger works GREAT (I'd rather do that than pull that fuse!) and then you are back in business. I have a 2013 also (bought it in 2016), with about 47k miles on it. The problem will keep happening, but if you're lucky, not very often.