nogoodbum

Thanks, disconnecting the 12v battery seems to have fixed the problem. I was surprised that the radio presets & info center trackings [left side of dash pod] both were retained. After reconnecting both began at the starting point screen but only had to push a few buttons on the steering wheel controls or the radio touchscreen to get back to normal. I guess the problem may have been started during a Sirius update that didn't quite take for some reason, [driving thru a dead signal spot for example].

Recent problem I've never seen before or even heard of. Usually when I stop & turn off the car, when I return the radio & climate control & others start back where they were. Now the CC has to be manually turned on, always reverting to AUTO mode, AC on & no directional settings. Pulled the CC fuse [#71], started car with fuse out, reinserted fuse hoping to reboot CC. No effect. It acts as if the CC module has a button battery for memory that has gone bad. Really, Really don't want to take to local Ford dealer as they charge $175 just to look. THANKS for any advice & thanks for the read.

After looking into the cost to replace sensors [$40 to $50 each], i just decided to grin & bear it. Old toothbrush didn't help as one has been in my car wash & wax toolkit for years. Rate of happening did seem to reduce when I switched my daily drive from a 2-lane road to a 4-lane bypass due to school bus traffic.

2013 SEL, 190k here, Average between 40 to 43 mpg depending on outside temps mostly, majority of driving is highway at an average of 55 to 65mph. Did average a bit more [1-2mpg] prior to my last tire replacement. Gas mileage is hit by many different factors. I would look into the tires & pressures they are set at [some tire techs will not check for correct PSI]. You may want to swap out the air filter & plugs earlier than the manual calls for. Thanks for the read.

Your 12v battery is very likely in need of replacement. The 12v battery or the jumper cables do not actually start the car but provide power to the relays & such for the HVB to start the car. Since the 12v battery part# is used by a relative few models there is a good chance for getting a "new" battery that has sat on a shelf for several years. Check the build date, not the sell date, before purchase. Build codes are usually molded/stamped into the battery case. You can find translation for codes online. Thanks for the read.

Just a little info for everyone, Use it however you want. I spent 20yrs as an auditor for various gas stations/stores across the southeast USA. Part of that job was verifying the fuel level reporting of each station. Reports were used to track refill orders & to report to the EPA to verify tank & fuel pipes were not losing fuel [EPA does not care what leaks into tanks just what could leak out]. Despite appearances, gas stations are not sealed. Every time you put a gallon in your car, the same volume of air is drawn into the feed tank. Outside air with moisture & dust. I probably checked a thousand or more over the years & EVERYONE of them had some water/dirt in the bottom of the tanks. Depending on the size of tank & water level, equipment is used to remove excess. There is a reason for using fuel additives that should not ignored. THANKs for the read.

Would not be a bad idea to double check on the 12v battery. I had one, purchased & installed by Ford dealer/service center, go kaput at 12 months. What they sold & installed may have been new but was really NOS.

This appears to be more of a problem with the 2013 models, based on the amount of forum posts on the issue. May be an early production problem with a supplier, but that is just a guess, I posted replacement info in the past & you may find info online that may help. Do a search here or online for "reversing camera". Hope this helps.

Hope you good luck with the repair. The best repair is always with a mechanic you can trust.

Has standard shocks in the back. I would recommend replacing shock mounts at the same time. As I understand it they are prone to breaking & if not broken the hard rubber used in them does wear down over time. Not a hard job to do, 1 bolt at the bottom, 2 at the top & 1 nut to remove after shock is out. Pretty much "plug & play" with a good floor jack, a couple of jack stands, & a good socket set with breaker bar. If my old fat ass can do it, almost anyone can if they have the time [2 hrs for me] & the place to do it. Be sure to have the sway bar end links checked for wear in their bushings.

Forgot to add, as a mature driver myself [70+] I feel your pain.

Without knowing your area, the prices quoted are a bit high compared to averages listed via a quick Google/Bing search. You may want to get a second quote or three.

As cars have gotten more & more complex, it's easy to question the auto industry for blame, but the true blame mostly falls on federal & state regulations. Emission, safety, or CAFE along with public demand have turned simple repairs in your backyard into something needing a rocket scientist. The auto industry is to blame for designs that require special [for most of us single use] tools. More & more simple things are being used trying to force owners back to dealers service centers only. One example I can think of on the C-Max, is the lack of an transmission dipstick forcing an older owner back to the dealer or finding a shop willing to check it for you.

Welcome to the forum. Tire noise: C-Max is so quiet you hear/notice noises you don't usually do on ICE vehicles. They should quieten down as they settle in or you get use to the noise, Inconsistent warning lights, rear hatch: possible weak 12v battery or weak battery in key fob. As an owner of a 2013, it's NOT maroon, it's called Ruby Red. Sounds more regal & expensive, don't you think?

As I understand it [& I may very well be wrong], the date function is tied into the navigation programming. Check your SD card to update the date.