SnowStorm

1 Jump pack as mentioned. Posts are under the hood on the right. 2 Make sure car has had all the 12V battery related updates performed (various posts on this forum about them). I hope the dealer can determine if there are any outstanding. These updates appear to be the real solution to dead 12V batteries. I don't think the radio shut off is a good test because it is based on time, not voltage (as I understand). If you get a new battery, make sure the dealer properly resets the battery age value. (You can read it with Forscan.) Agree with getting a voltmeter. Check it before you start the car. If it is below 11 volts you may be having a problem. Car will start at a much lower value but the battery shouldn't be getting run down that low sitting overnight. I had maybe two dead batteries and the voltage was down around 4 volts! No problem since the updates (and also a new battery). As already mentioned, you can't tell how low the battery was from cranking the engine. Turning ON the car causes the High Voltage Battery (HVB) to charge the 12V battery through the DC to DC converter and the HVB actually cranks the engine (when needed). This is why the 12V battery can be below 100% discharged (10.5 volts) and the car will still start up just fine. So, use the voltmeter to monitor how things are going. 3 Don't replace that stupid canister. Just buy a separate can of tire goo that you can get anywhere cheap. The compressor is nice but that built-in goo canister is an awful idea. Set the switch wrong and you shoot goo into your tire by mistake (I speak from experience!). 4 Call some recycling yards. I bought a full size wheel (for a spare tire) and a replacement tail light assembly from said yards and both were great - and much cheaper.

I've read warnings against using anti seize. I wonder what the C-Max shop manual says.

This search thing is weird. If I have Forums selected and search for windows down (no quotes) I get the expected results with the "Windows rolled themselves today" topic on top. But some time ago I had out of date software on my computer and Search didn't work at all. ;)

Correction: LIN stands for Local Interconnect Network.

Buggs1a, as to your power steering issue, I have on a number of occasions had the power steering not become active until several seconds after turning the car on. The wheel will be very hard to turn and then suddenly start turning normally. I've never gotten the message or had to switch the car off/on. At least one other person said they had the same thing happen but don't recall anyone else getting the service message. It is possible that a service code was stored which could be read with the Forscan software a lot of us use. It is free (or $5 depending on version) but you also need to buy the proper OBDII interface device. There are lots of posts on the site about Forscan and a lot of information on their site. Of course you can also read out tons of information about the car - really interesting if you like that sort of thing.

Looks like a "golden" anniversary coming up soon! I'm still stuck at 49.0. With 200k on the odometer it takes some real hypermileing to push that score higher. Go for the Gold!

Well, well, magnetic wash clothes - how cool is that - learn something new every day. But weren't the old "sealed beams" a lot simpler and cheaper? ;)

The sensor is in the right side mirror, sticking out the bottom. The sensor is most likely of the type that goes to a high resistance at cold temperatures so a -40 reading indicates an open connection somewhere (or bad sensor). Did you see/reconnect a cable when you changed the mirror?

I have gotten 70-75k on two sets of OEM Michelins so far - mostly running upper 40s for psi. I do go on down to, or near, the wear bars (2/32 I guess it is). I also rotate at 5k intervals - helps prevent cupping.

+3, I see your link for a manual above is for a 2014 even though you have a 2013. I guess this is because the OP has a 2014. For our 2013 models it looks like this manual for 2012/2013 Fords is the one to get. Correct? Thanks.

You're off to a good start and it should only get better! Agree that other drivers can be nuts - like tearing around you so they can immediately hit the brakes as they go off an exit. Anyway, enjoy the new car - you got yours just in time!

So our C-Maxes are Woodies? I'd prefer the wood on the outside where you can enjoy the grain! What kind of wood was it? Did it appear to serve any purpose?

Paul leaves 47 in the dust! That's still crazy about the maxed out EV total. Are you recording EV miles for each fill-up so you can add up the correct total?

I'm sure it did. It would be interesting to know what formula is used for MTE. I started keeping a record of MTE at fill-up and for these 40 samples it has varied from 573 to 816 with an average of 670. The 816 MTE was after a 61 MPG tank and the 573 was after a 44 MPG tank (though only 1.5 gal for that fill-up). Below is a graph of MTE versus MPG for tank where I have deleted some of the smallest fill-ups (2-3 gal). The equation comes out to: MTE = 13.23 x MPG + 2.8 The 2.8 should most likely be 0 making the 13.2 the assumed "usable" size of the tank. Actually, the car seems to report 0 MTE when the tank only needs about 12.6 gallons to fill. Of course I don't know if the equation uses the entire tank average or is weighted towards the later part of the tank.

Turned car on today (not first time) and got the SSN warning (though sitting still in the driveway) and messages about engine overheat, see manual, service advancetrac, maybe something else. Turned car off and back on and everything was fine. Have driven 250 miles since then and on/off several times. I didn't try and drive when the messages were active. The DTCs from Forscan are below (other modules had no DTCs). At least one DTC may have been there before this happened. Does anyone have any ideas about this event? Its rather disturbing - sounds a lot like this topic on the Energi forum. ===SOBDMC DTC U0155:00-28=== Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Secondary OBD Control Module C Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 159989319 sec - Total time ECU has been active -TOT_DIST: 250913.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance -MAINPCM_V: 15.00 Volt - Control Module Voltage -OUTDR_TMP: 18 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature -ENG_TQ: 0.0 Nm - Engine Torque -PRNDL_T: P - Shift Position -TFT: 26 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_SPEED: 0 rev/min - Motor Speed -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command -M_INV_V: 277.30 Volt - Motor Inverter Voltage -G_PHTMP: 31 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 28 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -GCLTEMP: 27 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -G_SPEED: 0 rev/min - Generator Speed -TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -M_PHTMP: 32 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -VEHMODE: Driving - Vehicle Control Mode -ECU_ONTIME: 3 min - Module On Time since Key On or Reset -ECT: 41 °C - Engine coolant temperature -CTO: 0 rev/min - Tachometer signal output -HV_AMP: 2.90 Amper - High Voltage Battery Current -HVBAT_V: 278.00 Volt - High Voltage Battery Voltage -APP: 0.00 % - Accelerator Pedal Position -VPWR: 14.24 Volt - Control Module Voltage -VS: 0.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed ===END SOBDMC DTC U0155:00-28=== ===SOBDMC DTC U016A:00-28=== Code: U016A - Lost Communication With Global Positioning System Module Range/Performance Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Secondary OBD Control Module C Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 159989323 sec - Total time ECU has been active -TOT_DIST: 250913.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance -MAINPCM_V: 15.00 Volt - Control Module Voltage -OUTDR_TMP: 18 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature -ENG_TQ: -1.2 Nm - Engine Torque -PRNDL_T: D - Shift Position -TFT: 26 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_SPEED: -3 rev/min - Motor Speed -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -MTQ_CMD: 7.1 Nm - Motor Torque Command -M_INV_V: 276.90 Volt - Motor Inverter Voltage -G_PHTMP: 31 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 28 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -GCLTEMP: 27 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -G_SPEED: 2 rev/min - Generator Speed -TQ_DSD: 63.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -M_PHTMP: 33 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -VEHMODE: Driving - Vehicle Control Mode -ECU_ONTIME: 7 min - Module On Time since Key On or Reset -ECT: 40 °C - Engine coolant temperature -CTO: 0 rev/min - Tachometer signal output -HV_AMP: 3.20 Amper - High Voltage Battery Current -HVBAT_V: 277.50 Volt - High Voltage Battery Voltage -APP: 0.00 % - Accelerator Pedal Position -VPWR: 14.24 Volt - Control Module Voltage -VS: 0.3 km/h - Vehicle Speed ===END SOBDMC DTC U016A:00-28=== ===BECM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Battery Energy Control Module ===END BECM DTC None=== ===PCM DTC U0155:00-28=== Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC U0155:00-28=== ===OBDII DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: On Board Diagnostic II ===END OBDII DTC None=== ===APIM DTC U0423:00-28=== Code: U0423 - Invalid Data Received From IPC Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module ===END APIM DTC U0423:00-28===

Well, well, the end of an era. :sad: Just 20 more years and our 2013 C-Max cars will be antiques! :) (Of course we might not be able to find any gasoline by then! :stirpot: Should have bought an Energi!)

Lazy programmers! Maybe the real value is available through ForScan?? It seems a bummer to reset Lifetime - or you could record EV miles at every fill-up.

Here's my post about the type of socket to get (6 point with undercut corners). Follow the link in that post for pictures. Here's the socket I bought - 19mm. Impact sockets should be made the same way but may cost a bit more. Yes, I carry a breaker bar to be sure I can get them loose but its really just for emergencies (when I take the spare tire along). Of course for tire rotations you might also want a ratchet or some type of power driver (to speed thing up) and a torque wrench. This post says 100 ft-lbs.

[Duplicate from some weird error...]

Hmmm... BEVs outsell PHEVs by 33% - and with only about half as many models to choose from.

I would still get a 6 point socket with undercut corners - I've never seen a lug wrench made that way.

Well, I do oil changes but not tire rotations. Thoughts: You need a T30 bit for the screws on the under-engine cover. When installing, make sure it clips in place about 2/3s the way back near the sides - have a look before you take it off. There's not much room for a filter wrench to move so get one with a swinging handle or one that fits over the end of the filter. I happen to use Mobil 1 but I'm sure Ford's blend or many other quality oils are fine - I'm in no position to actually recommend anything. My tire dealer dealer does rotations for free every 5000 miles so that's what I do. The next time you buy tires you might get them somewhere that does free rotations. In any case, don't go longer than 10k (you can end up with cupping and noise) and use Ford's rotation pattern in the manual which rotates each tire to all 4 locations. If you do rotate yourself, be sure and get a proper 6 point socket with the undercut corners (there's a number of posts about this issue). Do not use a 12 point! The lug nuts have covers and they will get deformed. Engine and cabin air filters can be changed too - both are a bit of a pain but really not that bad. Read up on all the posts on this forum first, though. Find something fun to do with all the money you save!

154k miles. According to the Weber Auto Youtube video there is an internal filter - you can't get to it from outside.

Changed transmission fluid today - easier than engine oil and filter. Saved $140 over dealer and no more time spent. You can access the check plug up through the left wheel well by pulling the plastic shield forward. 14mm plug (don't loose the thin washer). My fluid was a bit low, nothing came out and a cotton bud had to be tipped down somewhat to contact the fluid. The drain plug came out easily too with a normal allen wrench. The fluid was rather black. I rigged a funnel and tubing to fill through the check hole. 1/4" OD tubing will go in. It takes a while to fill with several feet of tubing that small. It would be better to use a 1/4" ID hose and short piece of tubing at the end. I wedged some foam between the tubing and that goofy bolt just below the hole so the tubing would be sloped down into the transmission. Put in 5 qt, screwed in plug temporarily, ran engine for 1 minute, waited 5, removed plug and put in about another 0.3 qt. I measured what drained out and the bucket showed about 4.6 qt. Also changed air filter and looked for the "official" fill plug. I'm not sure I found it but there was as a stepped rubber/plastic cap (rather oily) back there that may have been it - too had to get to. Filling through the check plug seems the way to go.