SnowStorm

So you drove without any coasting for 265 miles and got 38.5 MPG. Then you drove 90 miles with less headwind, 1300ft elevation drop, drafting a truck, slight increase in temperature and coasting - and the credit goes to coasting? I don't think its a fair comparison. OTOH, it looks like your mileage for the 90 miles should be 70 MPG. 265 miles at 38.5 mpg is 6.883 gallons. Total trip is (265+90)/43.5 = 8.161 gallons. Mileage for last 90 miles is 90/(8.161-6.883) = 70 MPG!

Agreed - except for "hat nor plinth"(?) - maybe "hat nor shoe" or "roof nor plinth" ... Anyway, it would indeed be nice to have a manual "no regen" mode: Use paddle shifters to bump up/down the strength of regen - 0 to 35kW for "no throttle" condition Have three settings selectable on the shifter button Some other On/Off regen switchOr perhaps even better, have a third Super-Eco-Cruise Control ("Coast-N-Cruise" anyone?) that allows the car to speed up with no regen to a maximum (selectable) overspeed value before regen cuts in. So, you might have CC at 65 mph, car starts down a hill that is increasingly steep, ICE shuts OFF, applied EV power goes to zero, car speeds up to say 70 with no regen, regen is then used to hold at 70, ICE spins up if regen can't hold 70 (DHA selected). If Coast-N-Cruise is selected but not engaged, then there is never any "off throttle" regen (until you hit the brakes, of course).

My guess as to why Energi sales are climbing relative to non-Energi sales is that Energi buyers want to get away from oil regardless of price (or really want an electric car) while non-Energi buyers are driven by fuel prices. If gasoline had gone up a couple of bucks over the last year or so instead of down, sales of both would be skyrocketing. As Snowstorm has said, we are beginning to see "the end of the ICE age"!

So, you have a hill that causes the car to accelerate in N, but in D it needs 1 to 1.5 bars of EV power to keep the same speed? I'm not trying to be difficult but would someone explain how that is possible - I don't see it. If the hill is steep enough to accelerate the car, it should start regeneration when shifted to D. As I understand it, there is no mechanical "neutral" - the same things are spinning (drive shafts, electric motors) or not (ICE) whether you are in N or D (EV mode). The only difference is that regen can happen in D but not in N. By "all the best hypermilers", are you including conventional cars or just hybrids? I can certainly see the "need" for coasting with non-hybrids. In hybrids, there would seem to be less of an advantage but there could still be some. Motor/generators and power converters can be quite inefficient at light loads so it could be more efficient to coast, letting all the potential energy go directly into moving the car. [Disclaimer: ;) I don't use it and don't suggest it - your laws may vary! :judge: ]

Paul, are you sure you don't have a kindly practical joker around that keeps slipping just a little more gas into your tank after each fill up? Many years ago when "small" cars first came out I heard of such a thing actually happening! The guy was ecstatic with his MPG.

Well, you can hope they put the C-X75 up for sale! Its a hybrid (and I don't think you can call it a sedan!) but for the trip to Mammoth you'll have to "pack light". :lol:

Ahhhh... loved the report. Glad you all had a great trip but it leaves SnowStorm major jealous as he's about to melt totally away with our 70F+ temps (it you never see me again, you'll know why!). Well, I guess we could pack up and head for Mammoth too, but that would push The Enterprise well past 90k miles. Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow!

That is the pump and the sealant canister (round can with "MAX 50 mph" on it). The canister has its own hose separate from the one connected to the pump. Hook up the wrong hose, set the selector to the wrong symbol (like I did) and presto, you shoot goo when and where you don't want it. Then you have to buy a very expensive replacement canister with attached hose. That's why the suggestion to just get a regular can of sealant. The pump, however, is nice. The hose screws on/off with minimal air loss, the gauge is illuminated and easy to read, you have a pressure release button, etc. I've always been happy with the pump.

BTW, if the HVAC is on when you start the car and you wanted it off, I think you have 5 seconds or so to turn it off before the ICE starts.

Yes, it says: "May not combine with other Owner Loyalty, private or conquest offers. A/Z/D Plan ineligible."

Just received a card from Ford for "$2000 off the purchase or $1,000 off the lease of a new 2016 C-MAX.*" It says "this private offer is to thank you for being a loyal Ford EV owner." You must currently own a 2000 or newer Ford EV product, take new retail delivery from dealer stock by 1/4/2016, one per household, etc. It can be combined with other public offers. It might not fit in your (or some one else's!) stocking but it sure beats coal!

From my observations with OBDII data coming through the Forscan software, straight coasting (regen active but no pressure on brake) will not go above 10kW into the battery. Regen braking, however, can send power into the battery up to the maximum allowed of 35kW. So the answer is yes. I have no idea if using the "downhill assist" button on the side of the shifter changes the 10kW limit.

And after pulling out the rear floor mat. (How many C-Max owners does it take to find the TMK?) If missing, I agree with just getting a "standard" compressor and can of goo.

Which specific update was that? I'm always worried about getting updates that I don't absolutely need (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). OTOH, high tech stuff should generally be kept up to date.

Plan to try Red Line SI-1 cleaner tomorrow - will see what happens. Pep Boys stocks it.

Maybe it does injector/cylinder cleaning which helped MPG - not just octane boost. Anyway, I'm confused about what you used. You say "racing formula" (as in picture) but the prices I see for that are like $70. The "Max Street" version is about $10 but only has half the octane boost. Which did you use? Also wondering why the NOS site says "racing formula" is not for street use (Walmart says nothing about that restriction). It seems my mileage has dropped a bit so have been wondering about using an injector cleaner and which one is best.

Horns really aren't very effective. I literally just got home about 10 minutes ago after encountering a deer 1.5 miles from the house. It was just standing in the road staring at me. I blew the horn - virtually no response. I'm slowing down almost to a stop - blew it again and it finally sauntered off to the other side as if to say, "Oh please, do I really have to get out of the way?" Terrible. I want a good sticky coating on my airbag so the deer is held fast and I can just drive on over to the processing plant.

Well, on 2nd thought maybe I just want everybody else's car to be autonomous! Don't think the horn would help much but that air bag idea might work! And, hey, we might just get our "5 mph bumpers" back again!

I didn't see this CSP 14B07 on either the owner.ford.com or the ETIS sites for my VIN so I called the Customer Relationship Center at 1-866-436-7332. The representative was quite helpful and I learned that: Affected cars are C-Max hybrids built between Aug 8, 2012 and Jun 17, 2014. Letters are to be sent out "the week of Nov 16". So, should get them soon. Asked if he had a more detailed description and he read a statement that started with reference to the "transfer shaft" (and other stuff I didn't get written down) but symptoms could be grinding sounds and a transmission light displayed in the instrument cluster.Unfortunately I didn't think to ask if the CSP might extend past the original warranty period - sure hope so.

And it gets worse! Since I posted last night a family member had a deer smash her car and now its headed to the body shop (the car that is - deer ran off). Some things that might help are; (1) open entire season to bucks and does, (2) allow any rifle or bow any time, (3) reduce licensing costs to hunters and (4) allow wild venison to be sold. The whole thing seems rigged to bring more money to (1) weapons manufacturers, (2) the state and (3) auto body shops, dealers (some cars are totaled) and rental car companies.

Same Michelins as came on the C-Max - 2nd set at about 10k miles. Dry road and about 45 38 psi. Edit: Checked and found they were at 38 - tire place obviously let air out when I had them rotated. The guy had mentioned that pressures were high but didn't say they had deflated them. He added that over-pressure would cause center wear!! :rant2: Of course I don't believe it! He's still living in bias ply days. I had run a lot of mid 40s pressures on my original set and they wore out on the edges! Go figure. They're back to 47 now.

I second the "great brakes" comment as well. Two days ago I had squeezed into the left lane with everyone else to give space from the blue lights on the right shoulder when a bunch of tail lights ahead lit up like a Christmas tree. We were all hitting the brakes hard and swerving to avoid the car in front - all because of what, I'm not sure. Probably some highly indiscreet driver (trying hard to be nice here!) slowed down to have a look at the guy with a flat tire! I was a bit shook up but the car did great - not one hint of loss of control. As to the "move over or slow down" law, I'm becoming increasingly concerned as to how everyone crams madly into the "other" lane. No one wants to risk just slowing down. If you read the law, I guess you can see why - its rather vague at best. Please understand that I'm all for keeping our emergency personnel safe, but the way it happens on the highway scares me almost every day I'm out there. Not sure what the answer is (except that if you've moved over, don't slow down too!). As to the deer, it just keeps getting worse. Using cars to control the population is certainly not the answer. I've banned all night driving as much as possible in hopes of at least getting another half second or so of warning. I'm more ready every day for fully autonomous cars!

Pot holes should be banned! That's a shame - looks like you did a nice job making it. I guess my only problem along these lines was not waxing before trying this suggestion from Paul. There's still some glue from the tape that hasn't been cleaned off yet (but its in good company with all the bugs!). My wife wondered about it one day and I had to "'fess up"!

To clarify, I was referring to E0 as meaning 0% ethanol content, not octane rating (what I always understood "premium" to refer to). I always use 87 octane.

Here's a topic on noises both front and rear. We had a thump sound in our 2013 for a while when going over a distinct bump at low speed. It eventually went away. Also check item 3 in the first post of this topic. Here's a topic about the TMK. I too suggest getting a generic can of "goo" and a regular pump and/or a spare.