ScubaDadMiami

Everything is finally back to normal! I can't say what exactly was the final fix that made the difference. The only thing that I got from the dealer was that they contacted Ford and did what Ford said to do.

My lifetime average got killed while I drove thousands of miles with the C-MAX not yet fixed, which is what the dealer said would happen. However, I am just glad to have my car back in tip-top condition.

If there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in history or current, the display will only be the title row. 

 

I believe that this is the case, in my instance. I'll check again, but if I had seen a code on any of the screens, I would have reported it. I scrolled through all of the screens.

I think this might be similar to my problem with my 08 Chevy pickup.   Very small emissions leak.  So small that it went away in the winter months. I expect it to come back in the spring.  These are hard to find and my research stated to have a smoke test performed to help find the leak.  They pressurize with smoke and look for the leak in the fuel system.   I did not have this done yet.   Small leaks are hard to find sometimes.  The code can only point you in the direction of what the problem is.  

 

Maybe this is not the same but it sounds similar. 

They did test with smoke.

The only area that had any codes read as follows:

Man Date: 150915

B&A Bytes: 1F F0 62 47 39 CC D8 28 60 3B 98 01 06 C8 29 AF

On another screen:

PDS: 1

Thanks! Let me see what I see when I look at the codes.

I am having an issue, and I was wondering if anyone has a solution or knows what I should do next. It is now going on for several months, and my dealer, who seems to be trying, hasn't found the fix--so far.

Driving along, the check engine light goes on in steady yellow. Other than the light coming on and remaining on, the only other thing that tips me off to something being not right with my CMAX is that the fuel economy is not as good as it usually is.

I run a Vehicle Health Report. The report indicates that it is emissions related. I bring it to the dealer. They say that it is a sensor. They order and install the sensor. I am driving home from the dealer, and the light comes back on.

I run another Vehicle Health Report. Same issue. I go back to the dealer. This time they tell me that the trouble is that the fuel filler is allowing air to leak in, and they have to replace it. They order the part and install it.

I drive home, about 45 minutes or so away from the dealer, and I park in my garage. In a couple of days, I have to run some errands. I get in, pull out of the garage, and the check engine light comes back on again. I run another Vehicle Health Report, and it still shows the same issue.

Any hints about what this could be and what to do next? I have an extended warranty to cover this, and I bought it through my dealer.

Other than this, my 2013 SEL now has about 34,000 miles on it, a lifetime MPG of just under 48 (it was above 48, but then I drove around for the past couple of months with the issue, and now it has dropped), and it has been a dependable car. The back and forth to the dealer, and rental cars, is getting tiresome, and I would really like for this to get fixed on the next attempt.

Thanks.

I believe that it is a Microsoft product type of error, too. Since upgrading to whatever they call it now, the forum still functions for me, but whenever I "Mark Community Read," I get a 500 error, which I did not get before. Luckily, other than that, everything seems to work. 

Five quarts? Is that how much to get? I want the OW20, and I don't know enough about this to do it properly. Is there something that I need to know about what the label should say? I want to get the right stuff.

Oh, and since I plan for the dealer to do the oil change at the next service, should I just get the oil, and then let the dealer put in the Ford filter?

Mine doesn't do this, either. I go through the carwash in neutral, and then I lightly depress the brake at the end, start, shift in to D and go.

Set the left screen to My View, and check to see what kind of draw you are putting on the High Voltage Battery during various activities. Just a slight difference in the Air Conditioner can make a big change. You have the temperature in the right zone, but try a degree higher for a while, and see what that does. Also, make sure to turn on recirculate on the air conditioner.

Changing to 0W20 oil is not cheap, but I get about three miles per gallon higher with it.

High test 93 octane gas costs a little more, but after your car gets used to it, you will get about a gallon better MPG.

If you are doing a lot of highway driving on flat areas, search for the Ice High threads. Since a few reprograms ago of the software, it is not quite like it used to be, but I still do it, and it works for me at around 68 MPH. In theory, you should be able to get about 40 to 43 MPG when using this method.

It doesn't sound like you are doing a lot of stopping and starting, but learning how to accelerate from a stop, if you are doing it enough, can also boost your MPG.

When I had my cell phone and charging cable installed, I observed the installer going through the fire wall by following right up the middle from the console, and then he fished the cable through the middle of the firewall, pretty much at dead center.

Thanks for all of the responses. I have been very satisfied with the service given by my dealer and my service manager. The service manager said that they had to charge for the 0W20 oil because they normally don't stock it, and they had to send out to pick up a batch. He told me that this would happen before doing it, so it was not a surprise on the bill after the fact.

I am okay with them charging for the labor, and even adding on a little something for my provided oil, but $70 gets it to the point where it is worth it to pick it up myself and bring it to them.

I want the dealer to do the work, because I am going to have them perform the 10,000 mile service at that time already. It is just a question of the oil and charge for it.

I am near due for my next oil change, and I want to go back to 0W20. I am definitely having reduced fuel economy since going with the standard oil used by the dealer. I only switched because the previous oil change had an extra $70 premium on it when I requested the 0W20.

I'd like to buy my 0W20 oil--I am thinking Mobil 1, but I am open to suggestions--and bring it to the dealer, paying for the labor when I do my 10,000 service. Has anyone ever done something like that before? How did it turn out? Did the dealer try to balk or decline, saying that they wouldn't be responsible for engine failure after using your store bought oil, even if it is the approved grade?

Thanks.

Count me in on the group using premium. It does help a little.

The other thing that really made about a 3+ MPG difference (for around town driving speeds, less for highway) for me was switching to 0W20 oil. My dealer charged a big premium for using this oil, and I decided to go without it at my 20,000 mile service, and I am really losing out since switching back to the standard factory spec oil.

As far as break in and fuel economy improvement goes, I noticed an improvement at about 12,000 miles.

Just got the rear cargo cover from Canvasback. As others have said, it fits great, and came in a few days. They EMAILED me to make sure that they had the correct options, and shipped it out the next day. My only disappointment is that it is a disappointingly small package for $150. It does make the rear cargo area slipperier. 

My C-MAX is the one that is in the photo on their web page. I don't think that the CanvasBack is overly slippery, but it is nothing like the original fabric in the C-MAX. I like that I can slip things in and out without having to run from the hatch to one of the side doors in order to get something to slide in. Once inside, I use the tie-down rings, if it is the kind of thing that I worry will move around while on the road.

I now have 26,000+ miles on my C-MAX, and I got the CanvasBack right after purchase. It's still going strong.

Another thing on the Rav4 Hybrid that sucks is that the rear cargo bay area doesnt go full flat (its on an incline) when the seats are down

Weak! I'd hate that.

Grand C-Max Hybrid is a possibility, but would you be willing to have a rating of 38/34?

Nope. 40 is where I draw the line.

I think that it is just a matter of time kind of thing. I'm willing to wait it out. I still love my CMAX, but I hate having to fold down the rear seats for anything beyond a trip to the market.

If Ford would come out with a Hybrid Explorer that would get a solid, and not below this, 40MPG (and that would include traveling at 70MPH), that would have MFT with all the bells and whistles of the C-MAX, and that would be available with just as nice of an upgraded cabin interior as the C-MAX, but would have bigger capacity for gear and especially so with the rear seats in the upright position, that would be something that I would consider. I'd be willing to basically take a small ding in fuel economy for a bigger version of the C-MAX, especially in the rear compartment when the seats are in the upright position. Other than that one thing about mine, I still love my C-MAX, and it is still the most fun vehicle I have ever had.

Maybe I am thinking of something like a Grand C-MAX, like the European size, but with the Hybrid or Energi type of options on it.

OK, folks, I expected your reaction, but how would a police officer know if you are in N - does anyone know someone who was cited for that?

 

I suppose the suggestion to press on the accelerator ever so slightly to eliminate regen without engaging EV propulsion is valid, but maintaining that is hard work - it's so much easier to put in N.

 

Scuba Dad Miami - when you write :

 

On rolling hills (not steep enough to increase or maintain speed without some assistance when going downhill) at highway speed, I use ICE on the way up, and then I use HVB on the way down

 

you describe the exact scenario I like to us N, except using HVB uses more energy than N, right?  If I start at the top of the hill doing 50MPH, put the gear selector in N, and max out at 58MPH, before finally slowing back to 50 MPH a the road levels out, is that not more efficient than feathering the "gas" pedal to maintain speed?   As far as not producing a charge, I think you would only capture a portion of the kinetic energy and potential energy of a moving vehicle, once converted into electrons and then later back to kinetic energy, no?

If the hill is steep enough that you can maintain or increase speed without using the accelerator, then you are better off gliding and recharging while staying in gear than you are to glide in Neutral, where you will not charge the HVB. I guess that it is possible to be on a hill that is just the right steepness that leaving the CMAX in gear would cause you to slowly lose speed, while going in N would allow you go maintain speed. I guess that this could be an exception. Not sure how good that is for the vehicle and transmission, but I am not sure about that.

Interesting observation.

 

Mine is that engine speed for a 2-bar burn can be anywhere between about 1500 and 2300RPM, depending on load and SOC. Managing RPM is the key.

 

When first driving the C-Max, I spent a month developing a hybrid driving technique based on input here, before recording standard route data. My understanding was to "accelerate as fast as you can while still charging." As long as you saw a ^ above the battery, you were good.

 

As I thought about it, I realized in my case, this was a bad thing. I wasn't giving the battery enough charge time, so EV was limited. I started looking more at RPM than Empower bars, because I could hear the engine speed  wasn't following the Empower display.

 

The next season, I tried to keep RPM below 2000, corresponding to a 1.5-2 bar burn in Empower, depending on SOC. I accelerated more slowly, but for a longer time, so average speed didn't change (still a 15 mile, 30 minute trip).

- mileage went up 12-15% (more benefit in warmer temps)

- fraction EV went up from 67% to 71%

 

Now... 2000 RPM many not get you up to highway speeds, or up steep hills. I'm driving 35-45 speed limits on generally flat land, so no one should take any of this as an absolute. Just think about charging time when selecting ICE run modes, and you'll gain EV miles.

 

HAve fun,

Frank

Another way to look at it is the less time the ICE is running, the less gas you use and the better your MPG's.  Using P&G I would accelerate about 2 Bars to predetermine  speed, then glide to desired speed and then use EV.  I only used ICE 28% of the time when I got my 68.3mpg tank.  :)

 

Paul

 I have found that both examples are what I follow.

When doing charge ups, I try to stay at about 2,000 RPM or lower. I started doing this after Dave of Durham, I think, mentioned it. I found that it corresponds to just over a one bar representation in Empower, something like 1.1 or 1.2.

When doing pulse and glide, I've found that, if you are going to activate ICE, the amount of fuel used for a shorter burn at a higher RPM is probably less than doing a slightly longer burn at a lower RPM. This usually translates to about two bars, and when I have gone even higher than this (which is what Jus-A-CMAX mentioned, some time ago), it hasn't hurt my fuel economy, though I don't have much experience in this realm.

You will eventually get it. It takes a while.

For example, you mentioned going uphill with HVB (battery). Often, it can be more efficient to use ICE (gas engine) on the way up the hill, and then save the battery power for the flats or the downhill stretch.

On the flats, at somewhere around 67 to 69 MPH, you can roll along with partial assistance from the HVB while constantly running ICE. Combined, you will get somewhere between 40 to 43 MPG, maybe even as much as 45 to 46 (with the right temperature and conditions). After the battery gets nearly fully charged, you will be in this mode when you see the charge arrow (on the battery icon) switch between up, down and off.

Short of making mods to the C-MAX, such as adding grill covers and the like, I have noticed that replacing the oil with 0W20 has made about two to three MPG or more of a difference. I am definitely switching back to that at my next oil change. My usual mileage is way down, especially on the highway, since switching back to the regular oil.

How you start off from a stopped position has a great impact. You want to start off using HVB up to about 15 to 18 MPG.

There are times where it is better to run ICE at a slow speed and charge the battery, and then there are times where it is better to quickly blast up to speed (two bars or more), and then to glide with HVB. There are times where it is better to run ICE at a higher speed for a shorter time than to run it at a moderate speed for a longer time.

How you guide the C-MAX with the gas pedal will make a great difference in the final number. Trip length will also make a big difference. Temperature in the environment will also make a significant difference. Using the air conditioner or heater will have a significant impact. In winter, it is better to use heated seats than the cabin heater, for example.

You will get it after some time.

N produces no charge to the HVB.

On rolling hills (not steep enough to increase or maintain speed without some assistance when going downhill) at highway speed, I use ICE on the way up, and then I use HVB on the way down.

On steep downhills, which will usually not be at highway speed, I use Downhill Assist. I never noticed that I would see white come up in the Empower threshold icon. It's been a while, but I thought that it was blue. Once the HVB will maxed out, ICE would "dry fire," meaning the cylinders were pumping without using fuel.

I have an update on this thread. Originally, I chimed in to report that I was having the same snow tire type of noise as others had reported here. This had been increasing over time, and I had reported it to the dealer on a number of occasions. I had been diligent about rotations and balance, doing so between every 5-6,000 miles, and I am a pretty mellow driver, so I could not understand that this could happen to a new car that had been cared for properly.

After my original post, I scheduled my 20,000 mile service and an inspection of everything. At the dealer, I discussed alternatives, including those stated in our forum, with my Service Advisor. After inspection, he informed me that I had two tires that had not worn evenly. I elected to perform a new alignment, dismount and reversal of the tires on their rims, and rotation and balance of the tires. My SA told me that, if this didn't work, he would contact Ford.

This definitely improved the situation. I went from always hearing the noise to the problem occurring mostly on the smoothest surfaced roads. However, the problem persisted at highway speeds and on certain surfaces more than others.

By this time, Meagan and I connected and discussed things. She had reached the Regional Service Manager for my area, and he now contacted me about the situation. Next, the RSM, after conferring with my SA, confirmed that I have two tires that are out of round due to uneven wear. I was offered, and I accepted, to pay a total of $100 out of pocket for two new tires installed. I feel that this is fair, and I hope that this will bring a final end to this issue. My vehicle now has about 21,000 miles on it, and other than a hiccup every once in a great while, my C-MAX has been a reliable vehicle with a Lifetime of 48+ MPG.

One more thing to add: After having the first bit of work done, I drove from Miami to the mountains in the western part of North Carolina and back, about 2,000 miles round trip from Miami Beach. (I did four days of hiking in Pisgah.) As far as the road report goes, we were with A/C set to 74-76F, and we spent a lot of driving right around the 70MPH mark, but never above. As I had just changed from 0W20 oil to the regular Ford semi-synthetic (20,000 mile service) while they did the work on the tire, I think that the regular oil definitely dropped my MPG.  I am way behind on my paperwork still, and I have yet to input into Fuelly the information from the four tanks that the C-MAX consumed on the trip, but I would estimate that I probably only got between 40 and maybe 43 miles per gallon, overall. On previous similar trips, I probably got more like 43 to 45. Could just be anecdotal, but that is my impression.

Concerning the tire noise, it was not too bad on the trip, but it was certainly there for all of the 2,000 miles that I drove--although my passenger (who loved my C-MAX) never commented on the issue. I had hoped that the drive would level things back out a bit, reducing the noise even more than all of the previous measures had done, but I don't think that it made a difference at all. I am going to schedule the new tire installation, and I hope not to have another thought about this again during the life of my car. I am going to get an alignment, rotation and balance frequently, even more frequently than I do now.

Time to get ready for my next trip! Thanks, Meagan!

Just a guess, but maybe you can try a master reset after you pulled and replaced the fuse.

I only have about 19,000 miles on my C-MAX, and I am having the same noise issue. I tried rotating, and I saw no improvement. I plan to get it looked at when I get the 20,000 mile service, which should be in a few weeks.

From what I can see, I have plenty of tread left on my tires, and I don't want to start replacing them so often. Thanks for the great suggestion!