C-MAXER

No to either either issue.

I test drove an SE for 48 hrs and then bought an SEL with build date: 3/13 and both had this display. Funny, I just assumed everyone else had it. It's a great learning tool used by other hybrid manufacturers. I wonder what else I might have that you "old timers" don't. Hmmm.

Check your tire pressures. Dealerships typically keep them low for a more comfortable test drive.

I like your choice! ;) Your savings in fuel will pay for the car. :happy feet:

WOW, that's just......... :drop: No big gas savings for me coming from previous hybrids but I'm getting more room, power, and features. :happy feet: Enjoy your new ride. It won't take long for you to "get it".

Yup, you guys up north are going to have great tanks through the fall. :rockon: Those will bring up your overall yearly average from the cold months.

It has happen to me a few times. After seeing threads on this and thus realizing that maybe it not simply operator error, I've paid a little more attention when using it. I'm thinking it's maybe the access proximity sensor not waking up fast enough. I'm not 100% but I think the times mine has only unlocked was when the car had been idle for a long time (hours). Also if I touch a door handle first before continuing to the back, it opens and raises with one kick. Are "regular" key SE owners having issues with the optional power lift gate ? If not, then I think we can quickly narrow this down. Edit: only one SE owner (for sure in this thread) has reported an issue and that was using the remote (that could have been operator error, I've done it too). So has anyone SE or SEL had an issue with using the rear hatch button ON THE DASH?

Yup, that's important information. So, I'll now highly recommend the variable speed drill, circular foam pads (from auto parts store or similar) and the paint care system products of your choice (meguiars is easily sourced). The foam pads and a rubbing compound will cut thru the worst things (bird stains, etc) but keep the speeds down. Polish coat (or two if really bad) and finally a couple of light wax coats. Orbital hand polisher for the final wax/buff out. If the paints main problem is just a lack of care and oxidation/stains are not too bad, clay barring the surface does wonders before polishing/waxing (no rubbing compound, that's for the bad stuff). As always, the surface needs to be clean, clean, clean before starting. If you have a lot of black trim next to the paint surfaces, murphys law guarantees you'll get wax all over it (especially with power tools) which is very hard to remove especially if the trim is porous. I recommend taping over it with blue painters tape. 3M makes a wax/grease remover that works great too but getting down into the pores is a PITA. Taping is easier. BTDT. You can also work your way backwards on a small section to see if it really needs all 3 major steps (rubbing, polishing, waxing). So, clean and wax a small section (say the top of one fender) and see if it meets with your approval. If not, try polishing and waxing. If that still doesn't do it, you know you'll have to rub, polish, wax the whole car. The red Nissan Cube above only needed scratch remover and waxing. Scratch remover is a sometimes mini-fourth step between polishing and waxing; especially for darker paints. The black protege, which was in poor shape, need all four steps. GOOD LUCK!!!

LOL, hey there was no downhill on this route. That, along with gentle braking, is reflected in the low regen miles tally.

I typically give and follow the advice of buying/using quality tools but....... there's also marketing for higher priced "pro-level" products (common with cameras, golf clubs, etc.) For the average consumer, results with those pro-tools are no different than lower end stuff. I consider once a year waxing/polishing to fall into the non-pro category of usage. I've owned a 10-inch sears craftsman (DC) and a generic 6-inch (AC) hand polishers which have delivered beautiful results. For the past couple of years, I'v moved to using a Black & Decker variable speed drill with wool and foam pads for both application and buffering along with the orbital black & decker as a final polisher. This is an old mazda protege I brought back to life. A once wrecked bike now looking new again. Nissan Cube that had scratches from car wash brushes. My advice for a new car? Hand apply the materials and orbital polisher to buff out.

Yes, hybrids have an electro-mechanical system. They need an electric pump to supply the vacuum pressure when the ICE is NOT running. If not, then you wouldn't have power brakes whenever you ran in EV mode. Not a good thing! :) Look under the hood and you may notice the lack of a huge, circular vacuum booster mounted to the firewall from "the good ol' days". I've noticed that the CMAX brake pump is MUCH quieter than either of my previous Toyota hybrids. Nice touch.

I have the stone leather interior with generic heavy duty gray mats and like the look. There are several silver/gray interior trim pieces to pick up the color so they certainly don't look out of place. The pic makes them look darker. Here's another pic of the rear mat but in black. I think it looks fine too. HTH

2nd Update: I did the 11 step program this morning at the school and upon picking up the kiddo's this afternoon, the car had set its third EV+ set point.

Warm engine, 65f ambient, watch the traffic lights and anticipate, pulse moderately up to speed or 5mph over, let off pedal and gently re-apply to get into EV and glide along till you either need to either stop or pulse again. Try not use brakes but when you do GENTLY apply. An EV+ point for my home gave me a little electric pad to make it into the garage without firing up the ICE. The CMax will reward your efforts! :wub2: OK, it's not exactly 60 but a couple of more blocks to the house and it would have been! ;)

I have a couple of other hybrids and yes the "it sounds like a computer fan going bad" is the electrical A/C compressor running. Another common noise is the brake system periodically priming itself to maintain brake line pressure (it doesn't run off vacuum from the engine like in a conventional car).

I tried it at work (actually went to 13 for luck!) and, yup, it now registers EV+. I rarely power on/off at my kids school but that whole area is a natural EV+ zone; especially since I exit the highway with a full battery to get there. Tomorrow morning I'm going to find a parking spot and perform the "11 step program" to get my 3rd EV+ site. :happy feet:

Nice summation and I can't really find fault with any of it. :hi5:

OK, it sounds like it should be fine. A proper polishing actually heats up and partially melts the top surface, in this case the clear coat, and it flows into the scratch to even things out and makes it disappear or almost. Enjoy your new ride!

OK, I just did that and according to the website I do have 3.5.1; however, my car display says 3.34.4 in the setting submenu. :headscratch: Either way, I haven't had any issues. :yahoo:

I love My View. I wish there were two or three of them so I could have all the options available and toggle back/forth between them. I have an ultra-gauge OBD-II reader display that I used with my previous other hybrids that allowed this. Currently I have the Power+threshold set for first display window and DTE (range) set for middle display while battery and fuel levels are unchangeable on the third display. I'm still on my first tank of gas so once I get more comfortable with tank range I'll experiment and switch the DTE to something else. I also have all the optional battery display choices checked on for all screens. Combined, this gives me nearly all the info my Prius screen did. The camry had less.

I normally do a first change at 1k but dealer is offering a free on at 3k so I'll just wait for that, then change again at 10k and 10k intervals after that with mobil 1 extended performance oil and filters.

You didn't mention what color you got as some are easier than others but light scratches are generally easy to polish out. Now if they are completely through the clear coat/paint and down to the primer and/or bare metal, that's a completely different story but I don't think it would have passed pre-delivery.

I have yet to use the paper Owners Manual in the glovebox. Instead, I read the online PDF version which is searchable, bigger print, and nearly always at my fingertips (smartphone, ipad, etc) instead of locked away in the car when I have a question. The paperback manual also has very thin pages that are hard to turn. Go to this link, find the OM among the selections, left click to view it or right-click to download and save (suggested): http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/OwnerGuidePage&year=2013&make=Ford&model=C-MAX%20Hybrid

Hello from south Texas! :happy feet:

Just to clarify, manually adjust the hatch to desired height, then push and hold the black left close button on the rear hatch till it beeps. Max height is set. I have a low garage door when open that has scratched two other hatches so this is a very welcome feature.