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Bottom line up front: To add a third Intelligent Access (IA) Key (i.e. the keyless, push button start, key fob) to the CMAX SEL requires the dealer to use their computer, and requires you wallet to lose about $230 total ($140 for the fob with your specific precut emergency key, and about $90 to program). At least that is what I am figuring out.... Long story: I wanted to get a third key fob (intelligent access key) for the push button start for my CMAX SEL, "just in case". On previous Fords, if you had two keys, you could program a third one yourself (and avoid the dealer programming cost) by following some procedure that typically consisted of cycling the new and old keys several times. By doing this, you could save money in case you ever lost one of your keys (as you would still have two and could reprogram another yourself). Our CMAX owners manual has this procedure for those of you with the keyed start (called an integrated keyhead transmitter), but for the keyless option (intelligent access (IA) key fob), the manual says "see your dealer to have additional keys programmed to your vehicle". I asked at my local Ford dealer, and they spent about 30 minutes time looking up a "do it yourself" procedure for me, but were unable to find anything in their records. I was still hoping to outsmart the owner's manual, and I found this programming procedure for FORD IA keyfobs (attached) on the web, and hoped it would work for the CMAX IA keys. So I went back to the local dealership and ordered a new keyfob with my specific precut emergency key. By the way, the new IA keyfob they ordered for me, after looking it up for me, says 7S7T-15K601EC on the inside of the fob (the ones that came with the car say 7S7T-15K601ED on the inside, and I think 164-8048 is another "crossreference"): I THINK the only difference between ...EC and ...ED is the picture of the hatch on the fob. You order it with your precut keycode so they can precut the metal emergency key that is inside that matches your vehicle. Your keycode was on a small rectangular sticker in your pack of paperwork, that looks like a UPC code with a 5 digit number written on it. If you don't have that keycode, you have to have the dealer look it up on their system for your VIN and you must provide proof of ownership (ID and registration type thing, so they can make sure you are who you say you are). So, I got my keyfob and precut emergency key today, and tried the attached procedure, except I used the location on the side of the steering column instead of the utility compartment pocket (the pocket applies to other vehicles, our CMAX uses the location on the steering column for a dead transmitter, I think). I also tried the utility compartment in case I didn't understand something. I tried other programming methods in our manual where it talks about doors autolocking and unlocking. None of them worked to program my new keyfob. My precut key works, but of course it only opens the door and sets off the alarm about 12 seconds later! So, unless anyone has any brilliant ideas for me to try, I have an appointment on Monday to get the third IA keyfob programmed to my vehicle by the dealership (actually they delete the two existing keys, and add back the three keys, I'm told, supposedly at another $90 cost. Assuming my experience described above is "all true", you might as well wait until you lose one of your IA keyfobs and just get a replacement at that time; don't waste your money now, you might not ever need one. On Board Programming 15.pdf