takingittothemax Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 So this problem popped up a few months ago, and with a lot going on I haven't really had time to try and fix it. Our 2014 SEL Hybrid has the MyFordTouch system with Sony audio. 85-90% of the time when I put it in reverse, nothing comes up on the screen. If I'm in reverse long enough, it will will usually tell me "Camera is unavailable. Please contact your dealership." Sometimes the camera will work fine a bit, and then cut out. (This most often happens when I don't need it, of course!) And other times, the camera image is upside down or the camera works fine but the guiding lines that turn with the steering wheel don't work. There's been a few posts of late about camera issues, so I'm guessing it's not an isolated incident. Has anyone been able to fix their camera in the past? Is it just a case of removing the camera unit and cleaning the wires/unit, or replacing it? And how does one remove the camera to check it out? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nogoodbum Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 After a year of inaction I decided to take the dive & replace the camera on my 2013 SEL, with hope that it would not be more than my auto repair knowledge. Turns out it was easier than I was afraid of. Research online showed cheapest was RockAuto/Amazon/Ebay, about $150 after taxes & shipping opposed to local parts stores or dealer, $200-$500. I am partial to RockAuto but whoever works for you. My car called for part #Dorman 592-008, I believe your 2014 uses the same#, but verify first. You will need 1. a Phillips head screwdriver, 2. A 10mm socket & 2in extension, 3. A small flat head screwdriver & a trim removal tool or dull regular screwdriver [dull to prevent scratches] or a dull butter knife, worked just as well for me. Optional: dielectric grease & crazy glue #1.Remove top center trim. Has 2 clips at 1/3 & 2/3 across & 2 plug-ins to side panels. #2.Remove 2 side panels. Had clips at top & center & 2 plug-in to big/main panel at bottom end. #3.Using small flat head remove buttons on hatch handle to access Phillips heads & remove handle. [ I needed a small flashlight to see heads & put driver in correctly but I am old and feeble at the worst times] & remove 2 rear light access doors to help pull big panel. #4Remove big panel. If you have the push button close, find a helper to hold big panel while you unplug switch before you undo the last 1-3 clips, [Murphy's Law dictates that wind will gust while you try to hold panel with one hand & unplug with other hand] #5.With 10mm socket & ext. remove 4 nuts that hold outer body with the license plate lights & camera. Be careful not to drop any of the nuts into bottom of hatch. #6. Remove camera from socket holding it in place. Mine had 2 "fingers" on one side holding it. Unplug camera, easier to unplug after removal than in place, plug in new camera & follow pattern in reverse to reassemble. Total time was about 2 hours, but I am a bit slow a deliberate when it comes to auto repair. #7.You may want to use dielectric grease on plugs to guard against water & use crazy glue on small plastic parts that may break, be sure glue is dry before reassembly. This worked for me & I now had a camera that works [better than O/E]. Hope this helps & Thanks for the read. takingittothemax and JAZ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takingittothemax Posted November 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Thanks for that @nogoodbum! Sounds like the whole process is almost identical to that of the contemporary Ford Escape (below), and requires removing all the trim on the interior of the tailgate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salwolfe Posted April 11, 2022 Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 Haven't read the responses yet, but my 2013 SEL Hybrid is doing exactly the same thing. It's why I am on here today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilanddij Posted June 2, 2022 Report Share Posted June 2, 2022 (edited) I have exactly the same issue as the original poster. Has anyone gone through the whole operation to disassemble, but without camera change? This seems to be a cable connection or ground issue because it works some of the time and fails in different ways at other times. Or am I missing something? Thanks for instructions from nogoodbum, I pulled the tailgate apart and first (bcuz of the different and intermittent action of the screen) I added another ground connection to the camera cable. But, that didn't do the job. So, I picked up a new Dorman 592-008 from Amazon, installed it, and all problems are goners. ? Edited June 8, 2022 by wilanddij Update on status Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takingittothemax Posted June 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2022 I'm thinking of RockAuto kit that Nogoodbum installed on their C-Max in the next month or so, and replacing the camera on my car. I'll try to video the whole thing, so you can see what it entails... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EyeNoSee Posted August 6, 2022 Report Share Posted August 6, 2022 Thanks to all for the posts prior to this. My 2013 SEL CMax started having the exact same issue a few years ago and Dealer I took it too said they could start replacing parts until the problem went away and didn't come back. That sounded way to expensive to me so I waited till now to do my research. I noticed when it was colder outside the camera would work for a short time. On warmer days it wouldn't come on at all. I just ordered the Dorman 592-008 and plan to take a look at the posted videos to help guide me through replacement. Good Luck all and thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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