timber725 Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 Installed the hitch receiver this morning. Removing the plastic wrap packaging was the first big challenge. Second was trying to bend the tab enough. Thanks for the advice. I cut the tab off completely with a dremel. (After 3 attempts to bend.... install.. uninstall... repeat ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Werner Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 My 1 1/4" torklift is scheduled to arrive today. Is it possible to install without ramps? Also, any tips doing handling this solo would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Ramps not needed. Just get some phonebooks or similar objects to support the hitch close to the bottom of the car and you should be able to get the bolts started on one side then the other. Don't forget to bend the tab first! And in the right direction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiling Jack Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) I cut the tab off completely with a dremel. (After 3 attempts to bend.... install.. uninstall... repeat ) What's that tab supposed to be good for? Edited May 3, 2014 by Smiling Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 What's that tab supposed to be good for?My guess it was used in the manufacturing process on the line to move what it's a part of around. Smiling Jack 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiling Jack Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 My guess it was used in the manufacturing process on the line to move what it's a part of around. Good guess, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennifer Werner Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 I've been able to bend the tab, but it's not enough. Basically, it's like a fat u shape. Any tips/hints on how to squeeze the two sides together? I don't have a dremel, otherwise I think I would have gone that route by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 I think I used a hammer to smash it down, but may have had the same problem and ended up unbending it and trying again and getting a lower bending point. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiling Jack Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I've been able to bend the tab, but it's not enough. Basically, it's like a fat u shape. Any tips/hints on how to squeeze the two sides together? I don't have a dremel, otherwise I think I would have gone that route by now. Hacksaw, sabre saw, reciprocating saw, big file, or some combination of those? Or the brute force solution: Grinder !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Installed one last weekend. The trick is to start the bend with pliers, so it bends at the base of the tab. You don't bend far this way, just enough that when you take a hammer to it, you can get the whole tab to bend back. It lost paint, but not primer. Hoping for minimal rust... Looking at pic #5 in post #1, his problem is the bend started too high. Start it with pliers and bend at the base; just 10-15 degrees is all you need to give the hammer a weak point to exploit. I have ramps, but only used them so I could use a creeper. I'm also curious how one might use phone books or a jack to position the hitch, as I had to start off-center, angle it up then shift it toward center while lifting to clear the center hanger. Good upper body workout... And make sure the drivers' side threads are clear before you try to hold the hitch in position with one hand while threading a screw into clogged threads with the other! Have fun,Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnOhio Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 FedEx delivered my torklift econo hitch today. I got one with the 2" receiver. I'll be installing it tomorrow. I have a swing away bike rack on the way to. Hope I get it for Memorial weekend. Be nice to go for a bike ride on a rails to trails. Guess I can always drive my truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varmonter Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Is there a towing capacity for these vehicles.My old vw said 1000 lbs.Can this hitch be used to tow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) Is there a towing capacity for these vehicles.My old vw said 1000 lbs.Can this hitch be used to tow?Ford says its zero -- as in not approved for towing. I would not hesitate to tow a small utility trailer carrying a 100-200# load, but that's just me. The hitch is certainly sturdy enough. Edited March 30, 2015 by ArizonaEnergi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camazu Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Hello everyone.I just leased a 2016 C-Max Hybrid SEL. It has parking sensors in the rear bumper. I was thinking that if I install a hitch-mounted bike rack (kuat nv), the rack will interfere with the sensors when I try to reverse into my driveway. What I mean is that they sensor in the middle will always detect an object (the rack) very close, rendering the entire system useless when the rack is installed. Can anyone opine on this though being correct? Did any of your run into this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) Hello everyone.I just leased a 2016 C-Max Hybrid SEL. It has parking sensors in the rear bumper. I was thinking that if I install a hitch-mounted bike rack (kuat nv), the rack will interfere with the sensors when I try to reverse into my driveway. What I mean is that they sensor in the middle will always detect an object (the rack) very close, rendering the entire system useless when the rack is installed. Can anyone opine on this though being correct? Did any of your run into this problem? Every time we take our bikes somewhere! You just use the control on the steering wheel to shut off the alarm for that trip. No big deal other than having to do it every time. Edited April 21, 2016 by ArizonaEnergi camazu 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tr7driver Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Will a hitch interfere with the sensor that opens the lift gate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) Will a hitch interfere with the sensor that opens the lift gate? The Torklift doesn't - there are multiple sensors. And thus rhe foam padding on the vertical arm of my bike rack! Hint: Never install the hitch or load bikes with the key in your pocket! Edited April 21, 2016 by ArizonaEnergi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tr7driver Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 The Torklift doesn't - there are multiple sensors. And thus rhe foam padding on the vertical arm of my bike rack! Hint: Never install the hitch or load bikes with the key in your pocket!Thanks for the info. I just bought a Curt hitch from one of the forum members that turned his lease car in, and I'm worried the hitch will prevent the auto open. Anyone here install the Curt hitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 To be clear, the hitch must cover the sensor in order to be a trailer hitch. "Kick" operation is much harder to activate. You have to find the residual sensor window. In my case, I kick the hitch right where the safety lines connect. I can't see how you'd activate it loading a bike on a rack, but I'm aware that Murphy was an optimist. Have fun,Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted April 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) Here's my post on the Energi forum of testing the kick zones and link to the Ford diagram of sensor locations. http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/3072-no-liftgate-sensor-after-torklift-installation/?p=23938 The Torklift hitch doesn't cover the sensor. I believe I triggered the door when installing the hitch pin and/or struggling to get a bike loaded. Edited April 22, 2016 by ArizonaEnergi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwstnsko Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 How low can the stop point on the door be programmed? Can you lower the door to the point that it doesn't hit the rack, then re-program that as the stop point, so if it does open, it's just a bit? It might be annoying to have the door open just a little when you are taking the rack on and off regularly, but it might work well to reset it if the rack was staying on for a while, like if you are taking the bikes on vacation with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 FWIW, I did the test. My hatch's kick feature works between the "x" in the C-Max badge, and the "H" in the Hybrid badge, but not under the license plate, as one might expect given the receiver's location. YMMV.Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted April 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 (edited) How low can the stop point on the door be programmed? Can you lower the door to the point that it doesn't hit the rack, then re-program that as the stop point, so if it does open, it's just a bit? It might be annoying to have the door open just a little when you are taking the rack on and off regularly, but it might work well to reset it if the rack was staying on for a while, like if you are taking the bikes on vacation with you. I don't know how low it can be programmed but it's really not a big problem to avoid the kick zones when using the rack. I just padded the vertical bar and if it accidentally opens it just hits the pad and stops with no damage. This was the kick zone I measured. Don't recall if the center still worked but will test today as I'm loading the bikes on. Edited April 22, 2016 by ArizonaEnergi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArizonaEnergi Posted April 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 Yes, the area under the hitch receiver is dead to the kick action as would be expected, but on either side it works due to the design of the EcoHitch. Also moving a hand under the bumper while say installing a hitch pin will activate the opener as I confirmed today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Is the EcoHitch about the only option for a 2" receiver. I can't find anything else that has a 2". I want to share one bike rack across multiple vehicles. It is a 2" one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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