Trailer hitch supplier?

[AMSDPS]

After having the hitch for a few weeks I've been able to use it quite a few times (I carry bikes around for work sometimes) it is working great. The only thing is, as mentioned above, you have to be careful to not hit the tailgating open button when bikes are on the car.

 

I was going to do a roof rack too, but decided that was kind of against the spirit of driving a hybrid.

 

I'd definitely suggest the tork lift route, it was a super simple bolt on procedure.

[AMSDPS]

 I'm considering a roof rack, but the more I look at them, the more I don't like the idea of leaving them on my car for an extended period (I think they could leave scratches on the paint or mess up the rubber trim on the doors, not to mention the hit to fuel economy).  The cost is a bit less with a hitch also.  Have you been able to test the hitch with a bike carrier?  How did it do?

 

If you go with a roof rack, I'd suggest Thule. I've had Thule, Yakima and a few smaller companies. Yakima always seemed to scratch my paint up and the smaller companies like inno just didnt fit like they should've. Also, have a Thule dealer hall you install it, go to a bike shop or independent ski dealer, not big-box.

[altabrig]

Got it, installed easily, works fine. Very low profile - hitch fits entirely behind the bumper, only the (1 1/4") receiver is visible. Works with kick-activated liftgate opening, but I think the sensitivity is a bit reduced. No impact on rear proximity sensors (unless you have your bike rack mounted of course).

Thanks for being the first.   I am looking at the same hitch following your lead.  Any issues with it to mention?

 

Gotta have at least the hitch for a bike carrier.  I can stuff shortboards in the max, not sure if I am going to drill landing pads for racks, it is hard to get past messing up the roofline for me.

 

Hatch foot sensors still ok with hitch?

Edited February 4, 2013 by altabrig

[spinner]

Hatch foot sensors still ok with hitch?

 

Yes. I feel like it's just a bit harder to trigger, but not sure. Frankly, the foot sensor didn't work that well for me before the install, seems like it always took about three tries.

[colea]

Got it, installed easily, works fine. Very low profile - hitch fits entirely behind the bumper, only the (1 1/4") receiver is visible. Works with kick-activated liftgate opening, but I think the sensitivity is a bit reduced. No impact on rear proximity sensors (unless you have your bike rack mounted of course).

Do you by any chance have the rear vision camera? If so, is it affected either way, rack on or off?

 

Alan

[spinner]

Do you by any chance have the rear vision camera? If so, is it affected either way, rack on or off?

 

Alan

 

I can't see the hitch in the rear view camera. I definitely see the rack when it's on.

[ArizonaEnergi]

For those that have installed the Tork-Life 1.25" hitch - do you think there are any drawbacks to the 2" size?  While my main use, my bike rack, will fit either size, I was thinking about getting one of those platforms for possible large object hauling and they seem to all come in 2".

[TxWally]

For those that have installed the Tork-Life 1.25" hitch - do you think there are any drawbacks to the 2" size?  While my main use, my bike rack, will fit either size, I was thinking about getting one of those platforms for possible large object hauling and they seem to all come in 2".

I would love to know that as well as I have a platform with a 2" receiver from my Honda Odyssey days, although I'm thinking I would need to get a riser. 

[ArizonaEnergi]

I ended up getting the 2" size, as the platforms I were looking at all came in 2" and I didn't want to use an adapter.  I think it looks fine, not "too" big, and will give me the flexibility for any hitch device.

[fishead924]

Just installed a 1 1/4" Curtis Class II hitch from etrailer, and though a hole had to be drilled on either side, plus an access hole had to be reamed a bit to get the meaty bolt head through, the install was pretty simple. This is the second one I've gotten from them, the previous one was on my Honda Fit (which got Sandy-fied, hence the new ride), and both times were fairly effortless. They give plenty of helpful color pictures with the instructions for every step, not those cheap-a$$ black and white sketches you see with so many products. Their customer service has always been helpful and responsive; I e-mailed them about any foot release issues before ordering and they assured me that it'd be fine. And it was; somehow it still works (which only goes to show how little I know about these things as it looks like it's right underneath the censor). 

 

So I'm giving their product a big thumbs up. $95 cheaper than the Tork-Life, and that was getting the drawbar also. I ordered both size stainless steel balls with it in case I want to pull something later on. It all stores nicely in the rear deck cubby hole with a jack and heavy duty tire plug kit. It's nice to save money and at the same time still buy American made.

 

Here's a link. http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120923.html

Edited April 6, 2013 by fishead924

[altabrig]

I am still debating the two.  Good to know that the slightly more difficult CURT install was without hiccups.  How long did it take you?

 

I have purchased a couple of Curts from etrailer, but I noticed autoanything has a 15%off coupon.

 

 

The Curt's install pdg is way better than the hidden hitch/draw tite instructions.   The only thing I don't like about the Curt other than the 1.25" vs TORKLIFT 2" is that Curt requires the use of stabilizer straps on the 1.25" hitches or the warranty is voided when using it as a cargo or bike hauler rather than for a trailer.  

 

That said I have had CURTs on a Prius and an xB and never used straps for my bike rack and never had an issue.  I also trailer an AL trailer for fishing kayaks, but without a wiring harness that will wait.

 

Is the Curt discrete?  Says it is concealed and looks to be so on the MFG's PDF.

 

Sensors are a combo on the bottom and rear on the bumper.   Sorry to hear about your Sandyfied fit.  Congrats on the Cmax, does it compare at all in fun to drive factor with the Fit?

[fishead924]

altabrig, the Curt took me about an hour, only because I wasn't pressed for time and the bits I was using weren't the freshest. The only thing lacking from the directions was why a grinder was in the list of neccessary installation tools. When I saw that the fishwire wasn't pulling the head of the meaty bolt through the access hole, I just egged it out a bit and it was done.  As to the stabilizer strap issue, I went for the 1UPUSA carrier which is a platform style bike carrier. It only takes seconds to load a bike, and no worries about MTB top tubes making the bike hang at a crazy angle. The hitch itself is fairly discrete, it's partially under the bumper and not sticking out to nail your leg as you walk by, if that's what your concern was.

 

I do miss the flexibility of the Fit. The cargo floor was much lower, so I could just take the front wheel off the bike and stand it up inside without lowering the seat tube, which is neccessary with the Max. Think I'm gonna make a jig from pvc so I can nail the seat tube height down without using a tape. On long trips I could take off both wheels and stand the bike on the saddle and seat, with wheels and extra cargo, behind the rear seats. And the fact the passenger seat would recline flat to carry 8' lumber without much worry about damaging the interior. Not to mention the rear seat bottoms flipping up to carry tall stuff behind the front seats. I used that configuration to bring back a frozen half-a-beef (about 400lbs) back from Indiana to NJ wrapped in an insulating blanket. Don't think I could do that with this ride without building some kinda crazy cooler box (probably not a very good idea putting that much weight onto the folded down seat backs, I wouldn't imagine). She was a very flexible ride, to say the least.

 

I could routinely achieve 38 to 42mpg (rated at 33mpg by the EPA) with the manual tranny just driving fairly economically, so I had high hopes of getting close to 50 with this. Ha! I have to pilot the Max like Neil Armstrong hitting Tranquility Base just to get 43mpg. But it is way more comfortable on long trips than the Fit ever was, so there's that. But was it worth the $13,000 premium? Time will tell, I suppose.

[RetiredJohn]

You can turn off the rear parking sensors.

Can you shut off the hatch sensor?

[ArizonaEnergi]

Can you shut off the hatch sensor?

No, so be sure to not trigger the hatch if it might hit something and pad for that eventuallity!  I wrapped some foam around my bike rack vertical post, and when installing the rack I leave my key away from the car.

[sixtyeightmk2]

Looking awesome! I may have to get one as well!

 

Found one and ordered it: http://shop.tlcentral.com/store/pc/Ford-C-Max-1-25-Eco-Hitch-Trailer-Hitch-p1079.htm

Supposedly works with the foot operated rear hatch, see video at

I'll install it and report back.

[sixtyeightmk2]

emailed asking if they could make a titanium one today.

[PbF00T]

Anybody with the 2" Torklift out there? Does it end up too close to the ground? Does 40lbs that low and that far back cause the rear of the car to sag? I have a 2" Thule T2 platform bike rack I want to use with it, which sits kind of low, hence my concerns.

 

Incidentally, I have the Thule roof rack with aero bars on the roof. Minimal impact to mileage with just the bars up and the fit is perfect. The install instructions are no better than cave drawings. The side load bike carrier works great for mountain bikes but is not trivial to take on and off the bars. The rack works very well with a giant Yakima Skybox I have from a long gone SUV. The box mpacts my mileage but still way way better than my old 11mpg pickup truck.

[ArizonaEnergi]

Anybody with the 2" Torklift out there? Does it end up too close to the ground? Does 40lbs that low and that far back cause the rear of the car to sag? I have a 2" Thule T2 platform bike rack I want to use with it, which sits kind of low, hence my concerns.

Many people have it. Here's some threads: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1422-installing-the-torklift-central-hitch/ and http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/1078-hitches-curt-1-14-or-torklift-2/

 

I went out and measured my 2" one and from the bottom of the hitch "lip" to the ground it's 10". I haven't noticed any dip when I install my two-bike rack and bikes, but now that I have that measurement I will check it the next time I load it up (this week).

Edited June 2, 2013 by ArizonaEnergi

[sixtyeightmk2]

Confirmed that a trailer mounted bike rack should not violate warranty per the Ford SA today!

[AMSDPS]

You can turn off the rear parking sensors.

Can someone explain how to do this? I can turn mine off temporarily, but I am looking for a way to disable it until I change the setting again.

[zhackwyatt]

Can someone explain how to do this? I can turn mine off temporarily, but I am looking for a way to disable it until I change the setting again.

There is no way to turn it off permanently.

[hmatthews102]

I installed a Curt 1 1/4" hitch on the CMAX today.  It went on very easily.  Drilled two holes and enlarged two access holes.  Other than that it is simply nuts and bolts.  I looked at the torklift hitch and could not justify the extra cost for the few times this hitch will be used.  It will be used once or twice a year to haul a small Harbor Freight trailer with my snowblower on it to my mother's house.

[fotomoto]

I installed a Curt 1 1/4" hitch on the CMAX today.  It went on very easily.  

 

Arrrgh!   This site keeps costing me money!   :)

 

I just ordered from http://www.etrailer.com   the Curt 1.25 hitch mount, a 20x48 cargo carrier, and some accessories.  350 lbs. capacity should help keep the interior cleaner when we go to the home and garden store, beach trips (chairs, boogey boards, cooler) and some family vacations.   

 

 

102, how difficult was threading the two bolts from inside the rails?

Edited July 8, 2013 by fotomoto

[fotomoto]

duplicate

Edited July 15, 2013 by fotomoto

[fotomoto]

Got in the Curt Class Two hitch, a Draw-tite 24x48 cargo carrier, and assorted accessories in two large boxes (free shipping) within 3-4 days of ordering from etrailer!  Great service.  Downside is while looking for additional info on the Curt site after ordering, I found the hitch $25 cheaper at e-hitch.com which, I suspect, is a web storefront for Curt as they only sell curt products.  FYI.  Anyways.....

 

Fairly easy hitch install.  The CMax has two threaded holes on each side of the chassis that are used and a third, larger hole is drilled for a beefier bolt.  This is a Class TWO hitch.   Contradicting the installation instructions, I kept the hitch bolted to the frame while I drilled the two larger holes so there wouldn't be room for error.  Fishing these bolts through the frame with the supplied tools was much easier than I imagined. Install time was slowed by using a dull drill bit and took about an hour/1 beer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMPORTANT NOTE!  This hitch is not "certified" as hands free liftgate approved by Curt like other Class ONE choices.  I was very dismayed to learn this AFTER I ordered (my fault).   The good news is the hands free feature still works but even better now!!!!!  I'm not sure why but I just target and kick the accessory rubber hitch plug seen here:

 

 

 

and it pops open.  Sometimes while the car is "asleep" I don't even need the two kick method. <shruggs>  Got Lucky  Thought I was going to have to go through a return shipping/exchange hassle for a lower spec class one.

 

 

The Draw-tite cargo carrier is well made and doesn't need to be assembled because it's welded and not a bolt together design.  http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Cargo-Carrier/Draw-Tite/6500.html      It does have two adjustable bolts that fit on the angled shank to adjust distance from the bumper.  I currently have it all the way out so the lift gate can clear larger items like igloos.  

 

 

 

 

That also leaves enough clearance/legroom for us to get between the carrier and the car bumper to remove items from the open hatch.  Very impressed with build quality and have no doubts as to load capacity but one most remember that further out the carrier is placed on the shank, the more force/leverage it puts on the hitch.  The heavier the load, the closer in to the bumper it should be. 

 

 

 

Here's a tip I picked up on another forum for a cheap and effective stabilizer.  Found at lows for $4:  http://www.lowes.com/pd_45684-53911-ZU501_0__?storeNumber=2714&Ntt=beam+clamp&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4017541754%5D&pl=1&productId=3278867&ipTrail=208.80.171.251&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbeam%2Bclamp      Sorry, I forgot to take a pic of it installed.  I will use this for heavy hauls over long distance like trips but not necessarily locally.

 

Speaking of trips, I took this setup along on a 400 mile trip this weekend as a test.  With the clamp bolted on, it worked great with no issues, swaying, creaking or lost items!  LOL  I used two small ratchet tie downs and a large cargo net.

 

 

We Griswalds can't wait to take it on our summer vacation in August!