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Trailer hitch supplier?


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I did a quick search and found one on Google from Yakima. It states that it's for a C-MAX, but the photos show it fitting something else:

 

http://fitguides.orsracksdirect.com/yakima/racks/ford/c-max-hybrid-1392/2013/8002616-yakima-superjoe-2-bike-rack-for-2013-ford-c-max-hybrid.html

 

Since the C-MAX is out in the E.U., there will be options coming out soon.

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  • 1 month later...

Potential problem for installing a trailer hitch if you have the hands free - use your foot - lift gate option. It appears that the sensor is under the bumper and dead center.

 

Yep. Now that I have my Cmax I can see this will be a problem. Also parking sensors on the bumper.

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Found one and ordered it: http://shop.tlcentra...Hitch-p1079.htm

 

Supposedly works with the foot operated rear hatch, see video at

 

I'll install it and report back.

 

Awesome! I hope it works out, are you planning to install it yourself?

 

Watched the video and am thinking that with the sensor it may unintentionally open while mounting bikes or the hitch. I think I'd zip tie a towel or something soft to the carrier the first couple times (to protect the liftgate from hitting it) until it can be seen one way or ther other if mounting the bikes or hitch would trigger it.

Edited by CNCGeek
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Awesome! I hope it works out, are you planning to install it yourself?

 

Watched the video and am thinking that with the sensor it may unintentionally open while mounting bikes or the hitch. I think I'd zip tie a towel or something soft to the carrier the first couple times (to protect the liftgate from hitting it) until it can be seen one way or ther other if mounting the bikes or hitch would trigger it.

 

Good point regarding unintentionally opening while the bike rack is mounted. A towel is a good idea. My bike rack is a swing away so that the hatchback can come up after I swing the bike away.

 

I'll try to mount the hitch myself. I've mounted bolt-ons to three other vehicles so far without a problem. The C-MAX is lower though, I may have to get a couple ramps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Contacted a few of the major trailer hitch players today. Ones for the C-Max will be available soon.

 

In alphabetical order):

Curt: Available in the next few weeks, You will have to enlarge an access hole, one on each side of frame rail.

 

Draw-Tite Part # 24896 No timeline

Hidden Hitch 60318 No timeline

The latter two may be the same hitch with dual brands, availability unknown.

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Got it, installed easily, works fine. Very low profile - hitch fits entirely behind the bumper, only the (1 1/4") receiver is visible. Works with kick-activated liftgate opening, but I think the sensitivity is a bit reduced. No impact on rear proximity sensors (unless you have your bike rack mounted of course).

 

Found one and ordered it: http://shop.tlcentra...Hitch-p1079.htm

 

Supposedly works with the foot operated rear hatch, see video at

 

I'll install it and report back.

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Got it, installed easily, works fine. Very low profile - hitch fits entirely behind the bumper, only the (1 1/4") receiver is visible. Works with kick-activated liftgate opening, but I think the sensitivity is a bit reduced. No impact on rear proximity sensors (unless you have your bike rack mounted of course).

 

Did you get the 1 1/4" or the 2" I am trying to decide between the two. My wife's car has a 2" right now, and it would be nice to have the same, but I have a 1 1/4" rack right now. The only thing that worries me about getting a 2" is that the C-Max rides lower to the ground and many 2" racks are not designed for vehicles that ride that close to the ground. Any feedback would be appreciated!!

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Did you get the 1 1/4" or the 2" I am trying to decide between the two. My wife's car has a 2" right now, and it would be nice to have the same, but I have a 1 1/4" rack right now. The only thing that worries me about getting a 2" is that the C-Max rides lower to the ground and many 2" racks are not designed for vehicles that ride that close to the ground. Any feedback would be appreciated!!

 

I got the 1 1/4" unit. I also was concerned about clearance with 2" racks. As it is, I'll probably be shortening the square tube that goes into the receiver and drilling a new pin hole so my bike rack isn't as far away from the car.

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What kind of rack do you have? Did you need any special equipment to install the hitch? I'm thinking I can do this myself, but have never done it. Thanks for the feedback!

 

Re: do it yourself, the only tool you will need is a 13mm wrench. A socket wrench with a few extensions of different lengths made the job easier. You will want a couple wheel ramps to raise the rear of the vehicle up. The instructions say to have a wood block to support the exhaust system (exhaust brackets are removed and then replaced during installation). I had a jackstand ready, but I found that the exhaust only dropped about an inch before being held up, firmly, by another frame element, so no support was really necessary.

 

I had my son help me. I've installed these hitches myself, but they are heavy and awkward. It's very useful to have one person on each end of the hitch. The CMax hitch weighed 35 lbs.

 

Re: bike hitch model, it's generic. The mfg name has worn off, but it's nothing special. Just a generic 2 bike hitch rack. It's not the platform style.

 

If you are buying a new rack, make sure you get one with anti-rattle features. You will find that once the rack slides into the receiver there will be an alarming amount of play in the connection. If you just use an ordinary hitch pin, you will find that the rack can sway right or left substantially. It's not dangerous, but it's disconcerting, and might make drivers behind you worry? Most modern racks have anti-rattle devices to fix this. They are called anti-rattle because the same extra play in the connection causes a rattle if you are towing a trailer. Even though the rack is swaying, not rattling, they call it anti-rattle.

 

There are three types of anti-rattle device. One uses a threaded bolt in place of a hitch pin. The bike rack will come with a threaded bolt, and the part that slides in the receiver will have a matching nut. You will naturally need a wrench to take this rack on and off. If you leave the rack on all the time, or you don't mind the installation time, this is will work fine.

 

If you take the rack on and off all the time, or you are looking for the quickest install, you will want an anti-rattle device that uses a manual knob. You attach the rack with a normal hitch pin, then tighten the knob to drive a wedge into the gap between the receiver and the rack. This gets rid of the extra play in the system.

 

If your rack doesn't have either of these, you can use a third-party anti-rattle device such as is available from Softride. This will need to be installed with a wrench.

 

Hope this helps.

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Other hitch rack features to consider - when the bike(s) have been placed on the rack, is it stationary, fold down, or swing away?

 

Stationary doesn't move out of the way. Once installed, you can't use your liftgate.

 

Fold down folds down and away from the liftgate, toward the ground. You can fold the bikes down and then open your liftgate. Be aware that you will be stepping over / around the bike rack as you access the back of your vehicle.

 

Swing away get's the bike rack further out of the way. Instead of pivoting down, the rack pivots to the side. Now you can lift the liftgate and pack/unpack your vehicle without stepping over the bike rack.

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So I just got done installing the 1.25" hitch from tork-lift. Was very easy, I had a friend help out, which made things a lot easier.

We did support the muffler, but I agree that it's not necessary. It's basically a 6 bolt installation. I wish that I had slightly longer bolts for the center support, it was hard to get that one started.

 

Tork-lift was nice to deal with too. The hitch showed up in 4 days (Washington to Michigan). The instructions came with pictures and were easy to follow. The printing on the instructions was horrible though, so I emailed the company and they sent over an electronic copy.

 

So far I've mounted my bike rack, but haven't driven with it. I'd definitely suggest this rack though. It is a little more than some of the others out there, but the simple bolt-on installation is worth it.

 

Oh, one annoying thing about the rack was the packaging. This thing showed up wrapped in foam and shrink-wrap like crazy. Even with a blade, it was still the hardest part of the job.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I just got done installing the 1.25" hitch from tork-lift. Was very easy, I had a friend help out, which made things a lot easier.

We did support the muffler, but I agree that it's not necessary. It's basically a 6 bolt installation. I wish that I had slightly longer bolts for the center support, it was hard to get that one started.

 

Tork-lift was nice to deal with too. The hitch showed up in 4 days (Washington to Michigan). The instructions came with pictures and were easy to follow. The printing on the instructions was horrible though, so I emailed the company and they sent over an electronic copy.

 

So far I've mounted my bike rack, but haven't driven with it. I'd definitely suggest this rack though. It is a little more than some of the others out there, but the simple bolt-on installation is worth it.

 

Oh, one annoying thing about the rack was the packaging. This thing showed up wrapped in foam and shrink-wrap like crazy. Even with a blade, it was still the hardest part of the job.

 

 I'm considering a roof rack, but the more I look at them, the more I don't like the idea of leaving them on my car for an extended period (I think they could leave scratches on the paint or mess up the rubber trim on the doors, not to mention the hit to fuel economy).  The cost is a bit less with a hitch also.  Have you been able to test the hitch with a bike carrier?  How did it do?

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