3m Clear bra and bugshield.

[slampro]

1st Question.....

 

Does anybody here have any experience with the 3m clear bra? I have never had it on a car. I have however, had rock chips and etc on the hood and grill of every car. I am thinking of getting it on our C Max.

 

Question 2...

 

Does anybody have the Ford OEM bug shield on their C Max? If so, how is the fit and look?(pictures if possible please) Does it "flap" in the wind at freeway speeds?

 

Thanks for any input.

[zhackwyatt]

Can't speak to number 2.  For number 1 it did not take long before i got rock chips. (http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1455-chips/?hl=colorchip&do=findComment&comment=12396)

 

I don't have a bra and the one thing that bugs me about those clear bra's is that over time they trap dirt in the edges where you can see it.

[slampro]

I had one of those "leather" bras on a car at one time. It did trap a lot of stuff underneath it. I just don't know if the clear ones do the same. My research has some saying yes it does, some say no it don't. They all tend to agree that who applies it is critical.

[zhackwyatt]

I was referring to just the edge.  But yeah, who installs it is probably the most important factor.

[plus 3 golfer]

If the clear bra is installed properly, it will not lift at the edges. Those that get dirt under the edges likely were not careful in washing, claying, polishing, waxing their car. The worst thing one can do is run a fingernail or other hard object along the edge to remove dirt residue as it can push the film back a little and push the debris under the film edge. Worst cast is that one trims the edge back 1/64" - 1/32".

 

I've used both the "leather" bra and clear bra on previous cars and have the clear bra on my C-max. After 6 years, 115k in PA, the "leather" bra was worn and ratty looking but did a superb job of protecting. I had a 3M clear bra on for 4+ years, 70k miles in AZ. There's no question that one could tell the Clear bra was not as vibrant as when first put one. But there were no stone chips. There was some "dirt" along some edges which I easily trimmed back.

 

I don't like the look of the "leather" bras and is why I went with the clear bra on my last two new cars.

[fotomoto]

I bought a combination package of 3M and a proprietary kit from this thread:  http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1958-invisible-bra-and-deck-protection-and-more/

 

I installed it myself.  I have a pretty extensive background at applying window tint and vinyl graphics on my own vehicles.  I have had more issues with the 3M than their own product.  It's lifting near the fog light cutouts on both sides but otherwise the overall package is doing its job.   I haven't talked to them yet about it or if this issue can be resolved.

 

Lots of rocks/pebbles on our Texas roadways due to the chip/seal type of paving.  This is the kind where they lay down layer of hot tar, dump asphalt rock on top, lamely push it down with a steam roller machine a couple of times and call it a day.  Tons of bugs too.  It's been protect just fine.  I have a home power washer that I use nearly every weekend on it and everything comes right off including road tar.  Here's a pic of what it encounters.

 

 

I can just barely make out the line on the hood liner in this pic.  It extends about 8-10 inches back from the front leading edge.  The reflections are a little less sharp under it.  The front bumper kit is basically invisible but was difficult and tedious to apply.  The hood kit was easy.

 

If you are not a committed DIY'er, I'd strongly suggest getting it done by a shop with a warranty.  

 

BTW, the official Ford Ruby Red touch up paint works well.  I applied to it to the stone chips I all ready had before laying down the wrap.

 

 

[slampro]

I have never used clay bar on a car. I would probably screw it up. ;)  Besides I don't work well outside when it's above 95 degrees.

 

I have done windows on our old Chevy van, but I in no way think I could do this myself. I have asked the dealer if they could do(have it done), but haven't got a definitive answer yet.

 

I have seen and experienced that type of road repair. It has been responsible for more than one crack in a windshield.

 

I think I am going to get it on the C Max. I asked the dealer to get me the window vent visors, bug shield, tint the windows, and the 3m clear bra. I know it will add to the cost of the vehicle. It will also most likely make me have to wait another day or two. If they don't want to do it, I will go to a shop(once I find the best one I can).

 

Thanks for the pic. :camera: That is what my car looks like after one trip to Las Cruces and back. Makes me thinks me needs.

[mtb9153]

Frigg'n bugs are a pain.  Does power wash take them off well without damaging the finish/shine?  I don't like to scrub them off on painted surfaces because it can scratch and dull the paint if you do it too hard.  Was wondering if a high pressure attachment on my garden hose would work as well?  Certainly allot cheaper than a power washer.

[plus 3 golfer]

A typical "homeowner" power washer might have a pressure from about 1500 - 3000 psi.  Your city water service will likely be less than 100 psi.  The city service pressure is simply not enough to remove the "baked on" bugs.  A pressure washer used properly will not damage / dull the surface.

 

I've used a gas power/pressure washer (2800 psi) and an electric pressure washer (1600 psi) many times on my previous vehicles (not on C-Max yet) and it will remove virtually all the bugs from the painted and Clear Bra surfaces. The electric one does a decent job but the more powerful gas washer is better.  But I never run the gas washer at max. pressure or get too close to the car painted surface with the wand as once on my 2000 Passat I did peel a small dime size strip of paint from the lower front bumper cover when I put the nozzle very close to the bumper cover. I believe the spot I was trying to clean was actually a paint scrape with the gray bumper cover showing which I thought was grime.  

 

If all you want to do is to clean a car and do other small jobs around the house, I'd recommend an electric power washer as it is very convenient, cheap, stores easily and has adequate pressure for most jobs.  If you want to also periodically clean decks (composite or wood), bare concrete, patios, lawn furniture, screens, windows, sides of your house and so forth, the gas ones with a higher flow rate and higher pressure will do the jobs a lot quicker but are significantly more costly.  A number of years ago I bought a Karcher electric pressure washer at Sams Club Auctions for about 1/2 the retail price and a "close out" gas one for $170 (over 1/2 off) at Checker Auto (bought out by O'Reillys). 

[mtb9153]

+3 Golfer, thanks for the message good input.  Will look into one of these at a O'Reilly's near my home.  Also there is a close by Harbor Freight I might check at as well.

[plus 3 golfer]

Just so you know if you buy an electric one and use it a lot it likely will need internal check valves / seals replaced in a few years. This seems to be a fairly common replacement part.  It's actually not difficult to do and IIRC, the parts were around $20.  Also, 1600 psi is max pressure and many complaints from owners are that it doesn't clean very well.  My experience is it will still do a good job cleaning but the wand needs to be very close to the work and it's thus slow as the cleaning area is fairly small with a low flow rate.  I did sell my Karcher for $50 when I got my gas pressure washer. 

 

The only problem I had with the gas one was that I left fuel in it for nearly a year between starts and I had to disassemble the carburetor and clean the orifices and so forth - not a difficult job.  After cleaning, it started right up.  Now, I try to run it every few months or drain the fuel out of the tank and carburetor float bowl if I think I may not use it for an extended period of time.  

 

Also, Harbor Freight has coupons available through the end of the month as shown below in case you can't find them.