fbov Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 ... Any amount of data would be better than the zero amount we have now. See post 22. cheezy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 See post 22.Yes, but I'd like a way to do it myself on an ongoing basis at low cost (after any initial equipment purchase). The full lab reports give lots of information but for the price, I could buy synthetic oil and a "good" filter and just go ahead and change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Agreed, but I haven't had a new car since 1983, my fuel budget is flush, and I'm interested in the reliability of this hybrid drivetrain. These things run under high load, with frequent stop/starts and spend a lot of time below operating temperature. No conventional drivetrain can match the stresses a hybrid puts on oil, and as a first-model-year owner, it's possible Ford didn't get things 100.000% right (tranny bearing?) Maybe I'll get advance warning of something in the engine... maybe not, but it's part of the fun. Have fun,frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Oh yes, the transmission. I'm a bit concerned there as I'll be out of warranty in a year, I assume my car pre-dates the fix, I expect to go 250k and certainly don't want to pay for a new tranny. A transmission fluid analysis just might be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezy Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 I won't be going to the dealer anymore they are too expensive and ive always changed my own oil, transmission fluid and did tune ups on all my vehicles I'd like to know what other 2013 cmax hybrid drivers use for oil thanks Ditto on DIY wrenching. I'll run what the Dealer had in this '13 SEL with 64K on it, have a Ford Dealer put it up on their rack for the next oil/filter change to run for another 8-10K, then switch over to my preferred 100% Synthetic Amsoil. Filter changes at 50% of oil life, do a BlackStone eval., etc.. Great thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VerbalK Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 My lord, tried to do an oil change today, barely enough clearance to get to the drain bolt with a socket wrench. Didn;t want to strip or break it, So I'll bring it to a shop with my own oil and filter. Ive had it 9 months with 11K, still no light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) My lord, tried to do an oil change today, barely enough clearance to get to the drain bolt with a socket wrench. Didn;t want to strip or break it, So I'll bring it to a shop with my own oil and filter. Ive had it 9 months with 11K, still no light.Really, I've done five OC and have no issues that would "make" me take it to a shop for an OC. What size wrench did you use - 1/2"? Try 3/8" inch using breaker bar not ratchet (which is what I use). Also, I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug as my hand "knows" best (never stripped threads yet). IMO, there's a greater chance that the oil change jocks at the shop will strip the threads and not tell anyone. One discovers it when they see oil drippings on the garage floor months later. It happens. :) Edited March 19, 2016 by Plus 3 Golfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNY Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I had the dealer do my first oil change since I bought it last Aug. a bit over 10K miles and the light came one. wasn't sure how hard to remove the belly pan and how high i needed to get the car to access everything since they sit so low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I had the dealer do my first oil change since I bought it last Aug. a bit over 10K miles and the light came one. wasn't sure how hard to remove the belly pan and how high i needed to get the car to access everything since they sit so low. The belly pan is easy to remove. But you do need to raise the car high enough to get to the back screws of the belly pan. Although I haven't tried it, you can probably drive the front of the car up on a couple of 2X6 boards (say an 8 footer, cut into 2 - 30" and 2 - 18 " pieces with an 18" inch piece screwed to the top of a 30" piece). Thus, with car raised about 3 inches one should be able to squeeze far enough under the car from behind the front tires to reach the back screws of the belly pan or perhaps even from the front of the car. But a set of ramps works great and provides ample lift to make the job easy. :) :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I have a slope going up into the garage so I back in (EV mode - no fumes in garage!) then pull forward onto 2x lumber right at the exit of the garage giving another 1.5" (set brake, chock rear wheels). That gives plenty of room. On a flat I certainly expect you would need the 3" or more. Be sure to hook the back of the belly pan into the underside of the car before putting the bolts back in. You hook it in place, put one bolt in the front and the rest is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNY Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) I do have the 2x8 homemade stepped ramps, wasn't sure how easy it was with the pan under it. maybe I'll try it next oil change. :) thx. build them like thesehttp://www.pbase.com/shhe/image/106974364/original.jpg I had the good metal ramps, and when I pulled my truck up on them, and stopped, one dug into the ground and decided to collapse. oops. the metal ones were too steep for the lower cars anyway. Edited March 19, 2016 by WNY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I've use twp floor jacks and then jack stands to add safety. You maybe able to unscrew the oil filter by hand otherwise use a oil filter remover to get it off. Only takes a couple of minutes to remove the cover enough to remove filter and drain oil into pan. :) Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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