pianewman Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Hello all,At 75k miles, our 2013 CMax suspension has really loosened up, with uncomfortable porpoising over highway undulations. I don't know the terminology, but there's a lot of diagonal rotation, if that makes sense. So, is there experience here with aftermarket strut/shocks, or should I stick to OEM? Maybe an upgraded anti-swaybar? We like the overall handling of the car, just want to tighten it up a bit.Thanks in advance.Ed in Ft. Worth, TX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted August 19, 2018 Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Hello all,At 75k miles, our 2013 CMax suspension has really loosened up, with uncomfortable porpoising over highway undulations. I don't know the terminology, but there's a lot of diagonal rotation, if that makes sense. So, is there experience here with aftermarket strut/shocks, or should I stick to OEM? Maybe an upgraded anti-swaybar? We like the overall handling of the car, just want to tighten it up a bit.Thanks in advance.Ed in Ft. Worth, TXWith 207k miles on mine and I haven't replaced struts yet. It has a little softer ride than new CMAX, but doesn't porpoise. I do use 50 psi in tires which stiffens things a bit. I don't remember anyone replacing struts yet. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcgliss Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 Sway bar links are the first wear items to check, especially when you mentioned a diagonal motion. Just replaced rear links on a different car (with 155,000 miles) and handling is tight again. obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pianewman Posted August 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2018 I'm trying to wrap my head around how worn swaybar end links would help large vehicular undulations. If the bushings in the links are worn, won't there be a clunking/rattling sound? I don't understand. Please explain. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcgliss Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 There could be a clunk sound if a link is broken, but the other failure is when one or more of the joints get tight and bind. So instead of smooth articulation of the suspension you feel an undulation. Just repaired two rear end links in a different car as I mentioned, and problem solved. One side had normal range of motion while the other side was bound up. Just a suggestion to check - cheaper than struts, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pianewman Posted August 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 Thanks for the clarification. The only experience I have with swaybar links (VAG products...involved a clunk, and absolutely no change in suspension function. I'll check them out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolenmoment Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 I just had my front ?sway bar links? replaced (2013 Energi, 64Kmi). The symptom was a clunking noise when going over bumps at low speed. The cost was just over $200. The front end feels much more solid now! I didn't get the chance to talk to the mechanic after the fix to clarify; the receipt says that he ordered "FRONT SAT LINKS" and "REPLACE FRI LINKS" for the labor. obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 Looking at the pics on FORDPARTS.com it looked like they could be easily done yourself. :) Paul obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 (edited) I wanted to get an idea what was going on here. From viewing the video: Jack both sides up on the unibody. C-max may be different from focus but often there is overlap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stabilizer-Sway-Bar-Link-LH-Driver-RH-Passenger-Front-Pair-for-Volvo-Ford-Mazda/132091304519?fits=Model%3AC-Max&hash=item1ec1415a47:g:E0QAAOSwhE9bfd6x Edited August 23, 2018 by obob ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pianewman Posted August 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 Parts are around $25/ea side. Actual time to jack up the car, remove wheel, remove 2 bolts, reverse: I agree, easily done in a home garage. Except, for me, at 64, expecting my FIRST hip replacement in 3 weeks, no can do. IIRC, dealership wants .5 hour per corner. WAY too much, IMHO. Thanks for the advice. I'll let it porpoise for a bit longer!!! ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted August 24, 2018 Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 (edited) From viewing the video: Jack both sides up on the unibody. C-max may be different from focus but often there is overlap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stabilizer-Sway-Bar-Link-LH-Driver-RH-Passenger-Front-Pair-for-Volvo-Ford-Mazda/132091304519?fits=Model%3AC-Max&hash=item1ec1415a47:g:E0QAAOSwhE9bfd6x Reading some of the comments from the video, people were buying the Moog stabilizer over cheaper ones on ebay and over Ford OEM. Apparently Moog has a good reputation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-Chassis-K750554-Stabilizer-Bar-Link-Kit/231722842694?fits=Model%3AC-Max&epid=169079861&hash=item35f3c1fa46:g:SnIAAOSwda1assnv Edited August 24, 2018 by obob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted August 24, 2018 Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 Parts are around $25/ea side. Actual time to jack up the car, remove wheel, remove 2 bolts, reverse: I agree, easily done in a home garage. Except, for me, at 64, expecting my FIRST hip replacement in 3 weeks, no can do. IIRC, dealership wants .5 hour per corner. WAY too much, IMHO. Thanks for the advice. I'll let it porpoise for a bit longer!!! I would be curious how the worn parts look. It would be great if you could access the old parts and take a picture. Hope your hip operation really works out well for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pianewman Posted August 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2018 Thanks, obob. Still navigating schedules for a HS and College senior. College senior is taking the car to school, for limited use, so any repair will be put off for a bit. Maybe I'll even be able to do the link replacement myself, depending on how the hips feel. Excellent info in this thread. Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNY Posted September 22, 2018 Report Share Posted September 22, 2018 I just replaced my end links with the MOOG heavy duty ones from NAPA. i think $27 each, greaseable fittings too. Took maybe an hour or less to change them out. No more clunking when hitting bumps. 68K miles. one ball came right out of the socket when I was trying to remove it. obob, ptjones and jmcgliss 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcgliss Posted September 22, 2018 Report Share Posted September 22, 2018 Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notquitesane Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Thanks for this info. I purchased the MOOG stabilizer end links and installed them tonight. No more clunking when going over little bumps at low speed. ptjones and jmcgliss 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineedtoknow Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 Can anyone confirm that the bar pictured above is this one? Moog K750554. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djc Posted November 19, 2019 Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 Can anyone confirm that the bar pictured above is this one? Moog K750554. Thanks.Amazon says the Moog "fits your 2013 C-max". They want $20.30, delivery in 2 days. https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750554-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B00CE3PJY8/ I had the front links replaced at 35k miles under warranty; fixed a clatter over small bumps at low-moderate speeds. I replaced the rear links myself at about 40k to cure a similar noise from rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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