Oil pan heater pad

[ptjones]

You would think oil pan heater pad would shorten the time for the ICE to get up to temperature and save MPG's. So I installed a KAT's heater pad #24150, 150Watt pad 4"x5".  Has anyone looked at the underside of the CMAX? Very aerodynamic plastic job, they obviously spent some serious time designing it. You have to undo 5 screws to lower engine cover to get to oil pan.  The oil pan  has a 3"x6" flat spot which turned out to be a problem with the pad,it is an inch to wide. This caused the pad to cook the adhesive ,but it still works. I saw a 30 degree rise in WT temp on Scanguage vs outside temp. Two things I learned was Wolverine makes a Model 9 125Watt pad 3" in diameter which would work much better. Second the engine uses the oil pan to cool the ICE and I saw my temps up 10 degrees with it on there. This is counter productive when using Grill Covers. It is possible that 3" Pad would have less of an effect than 4x5 inch pad. It looks like there is a fair amount of cooling going on around the bottom of ICE. Keep learning new things all the time. 

[CNCGeek]

Great info, but I have a question - why do you suspect that the engine uses the pan for cooling, was it something you noticed when the covers were removed or based on the temps you saw?  Also why would it be counter productive to use the covers plus heater (the heater is only on when plugged in to utility power, not while driving)?  Also, were the temp increases you mentioned at startup or after some period of running the engine?

[ptjones]

Great info, but I have a question - why do you suspect that the engine uses the pan for cooling, was it something you noticed when the covers were removed or based on the temps you saw?  Also why would it be counter productive to use the covers plus heater (the heater is only on when plugged in to utility power, not while driving)?  Also, were the temp increases you mentioned at startup or after some period of running the engine?

I only saw a 30deg+ difference  between garage temp and WT with ScanGuage in the morning with heating pad on. But the ICE ran 15deg hotter on the fwy at 70mph with the pad I used. I pulled it off and temps came back to normal. In cold areas 30deg and below I think the Wollverine Model 9 is a good solution.

[CNCGeek]

So it sounds like starting it with warm oil and the covers does not let the engine keep the optimal temp, but with just the covers in place, the engine may have enough heat loss to keep temps in check.  I don't have to worry about sub 30deg temps here, actually the opposite, but was curious about how the oil pan heater would work.  If I did have to deal with freezing temps often I would certainly go for it.  Did you try a test with the engine cold, heater off and the covers installed - to see if it still had the higher than normal temps simply due to the heater attached to the pan, but not on?

[ptjones]

The Hwy test I did was with the ICE cold. The heating pad was 5x4 inches with about 2/3s of the pad touching the bottom of oil pan. The other 1/3 retricted air flow around pan. The Wolverine Model 9 pad is 3" in diameter much smaller area and woudn't restrict air flow as much.

[kostby]

Just installed my Wolverine Model 9 Preheater today. 

https://www.wolverineheater.com/Model-9-p/9.0.htm

 

I removed the Torx T-30 fasteners at the front and sides of the belly cover, which gave enough access to install it without removing the back fasteners. (And my arms aren't that long!)

 

As Paul noted, the oil pan is cast, finned, ribbed, contorted, and the biggest installation PAIN is locating the SINGLE 3" diameter spot where the heater will fit securely! I also wanted to avoid snaking the cord toward either the oil filter or the drain plug, on the vertical surface on the back side of the oil pan. I seriously thought that maybe the 6"x1.5" pad (Model 9.1) might work  better, but there really is no flat place that long.

 

Looking at the engine oil pan and filter from the front of the car. Transaxle to the right. Black edge of the under-bumper cover is above, belly pan is dropped but still attached by the back Torx connectors. Note the nice rusty ding in the original factory-installed oil filter where apparently they banged it on something while installing the engine at the factory! Holding the pad for size comparison.

 

Placing the pad with one finger in the ONLY flat spot on the surface of the cast oil pan where it will fit! There are some cast numbers and a FOMOCO logo under the 'back' edge of the pad, but 90% of the pad will be on the flat smooth area of the pan, so I judged that 10% would not be a problem if I got enough silicone sealant on the back edge.

 

Following instructions, you prepare the surface with an alcohol-based cleaner, remove the paper backing, plug-in to heat the pad briefly (3-5 sec), apply to the cleaned surface, squeegee, heat a bit longer (5-10 sec), squeegee, heat (5-10 sec) once more, squeegee the final time, then apply the blue silicone sealant (included)  to the edges to ensure a waterproof seal when cured. I've secured the power cord with a couple of wire ties (one included). For now, I'll store it under the hood, instead of poking it out through the grille. The car will always be garaged. Having the hood up while heating will help remind me NOT to drive off without unplugging.

 

Now to wait 24 hours for the adhesive and sealant to cure, and try it out.

Low temps may get to the 20's this weekend, so I procrastinated just long enough.

Edited October 28, 2014 by kostby

[ptjones]

Nice job Kostby, looks like you did it like I did. I would keep hood closed, because I think it will stay hotter. IMO  With Scan Gauge I see 20*F difference between WT-Intake air temp and Outside temp. I'm guessing Oil Pan Temp is 20*F warmer than WT. The best solution for the extension cord would be to tie it to something that is going to be in straight line to the plug so when you pull out it will pull out of plug on the car. I still need to do this. LOL I plug mine in at nite before I go to bed, 125watts isn't much electricity. :) 

 

Paul

[kostby]

I added some blue flex split wire conduit  to protect the full length of the 120-volt cord against some of the sharp edges of the engine and transmission castings underneath, and abrasion from moving around with the airflow under the hood. 

 

I selected blue and used fluorescent green removable wire ties, so it would stand out from the orange of the High Voltage system, and the black oem wiring conduits used all over the place, so hopefully the dealership service people will leave it alone when servicing the car!!!

Edited November 8, 2014 by kostby

[ptjones]

I have had a few oil changes and no problems. Good job on wiring cover. I would install another Oil Pan Heater to back side of block, could use a bigger one, more Wattage there. :)

 

Paul