stratosurfer Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Radio and ON/OFF Button and Sync on steering wheel have shutdown. The unit is on, connected to my phone and seemingly all other features are working: B/U Camera ( no sound), Climate functions, NAV, And all Settings. The only feature that is shut down is the radio and the sync vox commands and no sound from anything. What I've done: 1) Master Reset 2X 2) Diagnosed 18 mos ago by Ford with same symptoms: stated radio module failing - BUT they got it to work...??? 3) Removed my contacts book from being downloaded. Does anyone have recorded which fuse number would be the proper one to remove to get a hard restart? I have Forscan I just got for IOS but my Bluedriver OBDII BT adapter will not communicate with it and I ordered a compatible one today. Any help/thoughts appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolenmoment Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Pull and re-insert fuse #79 in the cabin fuse box. You're seeing one of the symptoms of one of the electronic units losing its mind, and there's no other way to reset it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Pull and re-insert fuse #79 in the cabin fuse box. You're seeing one of the symptoms of one of the electronic units losing its mind, and there's no other way to reset it. Well Alrighty Then.... That fixed me. Thanks a bundle stolenmoment.Best stolenmoment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Hmmm... I've found the right steering wheel pad sometimes acts up. Get a text, and it reads fine, but you can't leave that display. The arrows don't take you in the direction you expect. I'll try the fuse; radio hasn't stayed on for a couple years(?). Have fun,Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 I am seriously considering upgrading sync2 to sync3 as the protocols are now clearly established on how to do the swap. I'm glad my system is up and running once again, but as I plan on keeping this C-Max at least 2 more years I may buy the parts salvage and do it myself. It is supposed to be less buggy than Sync2. I'll report my findings should I make the leap.Also, my contact book in Ios is extensive, 35 years worth, so I disabled downloading contacts into sync as there are some mentions that running the system low on RAM can cause some of these 'convulsions'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolenmoment Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 And, of course, this morning *my* sound quit working, with your exact symptoms. My car reads this forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-MaxJaxon Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Mine did this Sunday. The thing that's weird is that it never happened for the first five years. Now it's happened at least 4-5 times in the last couple years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 Hmm, maybe some programmer put a rotten, date triggered "Easter egg" in the code! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raadsel Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 One thing I started realizing, it seems to me I start having the issue with the radio not working when the battery has lost capacity, so when you start having the radio module "quit" and have to pull/replace the fuse, you might look at getting the battery tested and/or replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 One thing I started realizing, it seems to me I start having the issue with the radio not working when the battery has lost capacity, so when you start having the radio module "quit" and have to pull/replace the fuse, you might look at getting the battery tested and/or replacedI could see how it might be related. A theory on the dead 12V battery problem is that something periodically runs the battery down at night to some voltage that would depend on many factors. If the voltage goes too low, you can't "start" the car and you have a "dead 12V battery". If not, there's enough voltage to "start" everything but the battery was still seriously discharged but you have no way of knowing. Each time it happens though, the battery is degraded. Now suppose the radio "dies" below 8v but the car can "start" down to 6v. If its at 7v in the morning, it "starts" but the radio has flipped out and needs its fuse pulled. It could be that there never was anything really wrong with the battery, charging algorithm, or anyone's driving pattern. Rather, the periodic discharges have damaged the battery to the point things start flipping out or you can't start at all and the battery tests bad. Quite a rat's nest of different possibilities and scenarios. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted November 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 So a couple of thoughts: my quit on this last episode about 7 days ago after a 23DEG F night. So temp as a factor somehow? Secondly, I replaced my 12V BATT last spring with an Odyssey AGM and do no expect that it is weak. However on the mentions of low 12V sparking the issue, I could see that, I have a 12V adapter in my center console that is the 2.4W that charges my phone on a cradle and headset on a pigtail. Occasionally I do leave that in and 'ON' overnight with nothing charging but the blue LED signifying it's on. I have no idea if I left it on that night that crashed my radio. Temp that night would hurt a Lead Acid battery, but these Oddyseys do drop voltage at extreme temps, but nothing like a lead-acid batt. At this point, 6.5 years and 141K miles I can live with this eccentricity. My only concern is that it becomes more frequent signifying the APIM is on the way out, at that point I will seriously consider the Sync2 to Sync3 'mod'/update. We have cold weather hitting us tomorrow, we shall see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 Regarding battery age effect, I still have the original battery, and there has been no increase in frequency of occurrence. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raadsel Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 So a couple of thoughts: my quit on this last episode about 7 days ago after a 23DEG F night. So temp as a factor somehow? Secondly, I replaced my 12V BATT last spring with an Odyssey AGM and do no expect that it is weak. However on the mentions of low 12V sparking the issue, I could see that, I have a 12V adapter in my center console that is the 2.4W that charges my phone on a cradle and headset on a pigtail. Occasionally I do leave that in and 'ON' overnight with nothing charging but the blue LED signifying it's on. I have no idea if I left it on that night that crashed my radio. Temp that night would hurt a Lead Acid battery, but these Oddyseys do drop voltage at extreme temps, but nothing like a lead-acid batt. At this point, 6.5 years and 141K miles I can live with this eccentricity. My only concern is that it becomes more frequent signifying the APIM is on the way out, at that point I will seriously consider the Sync2 to Sync3 'mod'/update. We have cold weather hitting us tomorrow, we shall see... When the battery is cold the capacity is reduced (until it warms up), as resistance within the battery is higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted November 7, 2019 Report Share Posted November 7, 2019 ... 23DEG F night. ... Temp that night would hurt a Lead Acid battery, but these Oddyseys do drop voltage at extreme temps, but nothing like a lead-acid batt. ...-23F, maybe. I've started cars at -30F, so you shouldn't think of 23 degree above zero as much of a stress on lead acid batteries. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted November 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2019 (edited) All, I pulled codes on the CMAX with FORScan a few days ago after I had already resolved my dead Sync 2 radio from R&R’ing the #79 fuse to restore function. In the codes which I will try and upload later I had multiple codes of lost communication between the APIM and the Radio and Lost Communication between the APIM and Sync. The R&R of fuse 79 apparently reset the comms on those modules and I used FORScan to clear the codes and they are now gone.I’m realizing as we own the multiple ECU/Module modern vehicles that the various modules do lose communications with each other many times just momentarily and this will throw a code, for instance my airbag is intermittently throwing a code on the driver side anytime I move the seat. It regains comms and will clear the dash light itself but the code can be found with FORScan. I think this will be part of long-term ownership in troubleshooting these modules losing momentary comms with each other and either resetting themselves after a ‘stack overflow reset’ or forcing a hard restart such as on this APIM to Radio/APIM to Sync comm fault that is common.The good part is, with the body of knowledge we can gain on forums such as this, we can live to fight another day without having to visit the dealer and regain the functions of our subsystems.Additionally I just started using FORScan Lite and can recommend it, it was I believe a $5.00 purchase on the APPLE App Store.Mark Edited November 13, 2019 by stratosurfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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