stratosurfer Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 All, I am 30K miles at 156K miles after the swap in of an updated HF35 hybrid drive and have developed a metallic 'tick' sound at take-off. I had the car examined by my mechanic and he put it on the rack and pulled the tires and said the brakes and cvs were all tight. The sound is a very quick 'tick' or 'click', on one, that happens immediately on take-off on acceleration. It is the same on mild take-offs vs heavy throttle. I don't hear it on decleration or on braking anywhere all the way up to a stop. I have done the maneuvers to check the CV's and no noise. I can only wonder if it is a 'slip' between the block and the eCVT for a quck micro-second after the install of the swap-in salvage ecvt. My mechanic said in cases such as this it's best to keep driving and let it get worse to find where it is. It isn't getting worse, staying the same. A quick click like banging two ratchets together. Any thoughts? I've probably put 3.5K miles since I first heard it, not getting worse. I've never used those microphones to track down things like this. Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 19 hours ago, stratosurfer said: All, I am 30K miles at 156K miles after the swap in of an updated HF35 hybrid drive and have developed a metallic 'tick' sound at take-off. I had the car examined by my mechanic and he put it on the rack and pulled the tires and said the brakes and cvs were all tight. The sound is a very quick 'tick' or 'click', on one, that happens immediately on take-off on acceleration. It is the same on mild take-offs vs heavy throttle. I don't hear it on decleration or on braking anywhere all the way up to a stop. I have done the maneuvers to check the CV's and no noise. I can only wonder if it is a 'slip' between the block and the eCVT for a quck micro-second after the install of the swap-in salvage ecvt. My mechanic said in cases such as this it's best to keep driving and let it get worse to find where it is. It isn't getting worse, staying the same. A quick click like banging two ratchets together. Any thoughts? I've probably put 3.5K miles since I first heard it, not getting worse. I've never used those microphones to track down things like this. Thanks Mark I have what sounds like the exact same problem! First noticed maybe a thousand miles after transmission replacement - still there after 20k+ miles. I also had new rear rotors/pads done at the same time (to pass inspection) so some folks thought it might be associated with that. I don't think it does it on real light acceleration but, as you say, only at initial takeoff. Its not getting worse - could be better, or I've just gotten used to it. Would certainly like to know what it is as its a bit disconcerting thinking of something shifting around under there. I have some other posts about it but couldn't find them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 1 hour ago, SnowStorm said: I have what sounds like the exact same problem! First noticed maybe a thousand miles after transmission replacement - still there after 20k+ miles. I also had new rear rotors/pads done at the same time (to pass inspection) so some folks thought it might be associated with that. I don't think it does it on real light acceleration but, as you say, only at initial takeoff. Its not getting worse - could be better, or I've just gotten used to it. Would certainly like to know what it is as its a bit disconcerting thinking of something shifting around under there. I have some other posts about it but couldn't find them. So you ruled out brakes? My guys also ruled out CV's. It's like a metallic 'pop' or click. I thought for sure it was coming from the FL wheel/brakes/CV assembly, but mech said all tight. Could that be a motor mount? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 (edited) Ford uses what they call a transmission support insulator (transmission mount), an engine mount, and a roll restrictor (not really a mount per say) to isolate powertrain from chassis. On the Focus, techs claim debris in the roll restrictor can cause excess engine vibration at idle. So, perhaps start ICE and see if engine seems to be vibrating. Also, I would assume a damaged roll restrictor or perhaps loose bolts (note how the bolts are to be torqued) could cause metal to metal contact on initial acceleration. I've attacked a snip from service manual of it. Take belly pan off and it's the blue part. Edited May 7, 2020 by Plus 3 Golfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 3 hours ago, stratosurfer said: So you ruled out brakes? My guys also ruled out CV's. It's like a metallic 'pop' or click. I thought for sure it was coming from the FL wheel/brakes/CV assembly, but mech said all tight. Could that be a motor mount? Mark No, haven't ruled out anything yet. I checked some of the bolts in +3's picture way back last year - didn't find any loose but will check again at next oil change (couple of weeks) with the torque specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 19 hours ago, Plus 3 Golfer said: Ford uses what they call a transmission support insulator (transmission mount), an engine mount, and a roll restrictor (not really a mount per say) to isolate powertrain from chassis. On the Focus, techs claim debris in the roll restrictor can cause excess engine vibration at idle. So, perhaps start ICE and see if engine seems to be vibrating. Also, I would assume a damaged roll restrictor or perhaps loose bolts (note how the bolts are to be torqued) could cause metal to metal contact on initial acceleration. I've attacked a snip from service manual of it. Take belly pan off and it's the blue part. Plus 3 you are a good man... Thank you. This will be easy enough to check. If your in West Texas look me up, I owe you.. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratosurfer Posted May 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 16 hours ago, SnowStorm said: No, haven't ruled out anything yet. I checked some of the bolts in +3's picture way back last year - didn't find any loose but will check again at next oil change (couple of weeks) with the torque specs. I'll wait until next oil change and check these as well. I assume these came off when my shop swapped in the salvage HF35? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted May 8, 2020 Report Share Posted May 8, 2020 Mine rear noise seems like the brakes, but it makes clunk when I backup and stop. Then when I go forward creak and that's it. I thought maybe suspension, but it would be doing all the time. Shocks should be making noise all the time too. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted May 25, 2020 Report Share Posted May 25, 2020 On 5/7/2020 at 6:55 PM, SnowStorm said: No, haven't ruled out anything yet. I checked some of the bolts in +3's picture way back last year - didn't find any loose but will check again at next oil change (couple of weeks) with the torque specs. Changed oil and tried checking torque (reference +3's May 7 post): Can't get torque wrench on these Over 35 ft-lbs. Tried 50 and bolt started to turn so would assume its OK (have no past experience to know how much torque increases with a torque/angle tightening sequence). Over 59. Around 50 - bolt seemed to turn slightly but car wasn't on a lift and I couldn't get any more torque. Good thing is that after a year and 23k miles everything is spotless - not a drop of oil anywhere! stratosurfer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted May 25, 2020 Report Share Posted May 25, 2020 I would assume that bolts 2 and 3 are stretch bolts (given the 2 stages in tightening). VW seemed to use them everywhere and I know they used them on engine mounts. Some say you can reuse stretch bolts a couple of times but VW always recommended replacing them. You probably should have loosed bolts 2 and 3 first. Then, tighten the bolt to the specified torque in step 1) and then rotate the bolt the approximate number of degrees in step 2). So, bolt 2 should be rotated 60 degrees after 35 lb-ft is reached and bolt 3 - 120 degrees after 59 lb-ft is reached. I wouldn't do anything more unless you buy replacements bolts and remove the old one as I wouldn't want to snap the old bolts. Here's a couple links to threads when I owned VWs. https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=424644 http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/305 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted May 26, 2020 Report Share Posted May 26, 2020 Thanks for links. I had seen the torque/angle type spec before but didn't know anything about it. Now I won't confuse TTY bolts with teletypewriters! (There really was a day before email and texts!) I won't mess with them anymore but I do wonder about #4 - it doesn't seem properly tightened (and its not TTY). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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