New Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Hello everyone, I have never owned a C-Max before but have been eyeing the car for quite some time. I am getting ready to make a purchase and was wondering which option would be best, a 2014 with 10K miles or a 2017 with 60K miles. Thank you so much ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Ironically, the 2017 despite the miles. Early C-Max had a transmission problem that wasn't fixed, for sure, until 2015. Later years, and cars with replacement transmissions, have been very reliable. That said, transmission issues usually took 100K miles to show. The 2014 may have 90K miles to go before failure. If your mileage is low, you may have many years. Now, 10K miles over 6 years needs a bit of an explanation. Hybrids don't like to sit. What's the 2014's story? C-MaxA2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Posted December 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Hi and thank you for your response. I do not know much about the history of the car but I have attached the main parts of the Carfax report. So is the transmission the only main issue I have to worry about purchasing a pre-2015 C-Max? cmax carfax.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 (edited) First, the unique hybrid components warranty which covers transmission is 8 years, 100k miles. So, you have over 1.5 years of coverage remaining on the 2014. Second, several members, whose transmission failed out of warranty, replaced their transmission with a self-sourced salvaged transmission from a post 2015 transmission for somewhere around $2500 - $3500 (Search forum). On, the 2017 you would have likely 40 k miles left on the warranty. Also, note that the 2014 has Ford Sync 2 while the 2017 has Sync 3. Some hate Sync 2 so much that they have spent $$$ upgrading to Sync 3. Do your research on differences. Lastly, since I don’t know your risk tolerance, cost of both cars, your annual mileage, how long you keep cars, and so forth, I can not tell you “which option would be best” for you. What I can say is that at 134k miles, I have done nothing to my 2013 SEL but for normal routine maintenance. It’s one of the best cars I have owned. Edited December 5, 2020 by plus 3 golfer Bill-N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-MaxA2 Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 The older versions of Sync can be frustrating to work with - the 2017 version is better than the 2014 or 15 (I have a 2016 - built in 2015 - and a 2017). The 2017 has a backup camera (SE model), better seats, better sound system than the 2016. Consumer Reports shows fewer issues in the 2017 compared to the 2015. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, plus 3 golfer said: you have over 1.5 years of coverage remaining on the 2014 On paper, that's true. But at 10K miles today, it's unlikely they'll see a failure in the next 1.5 years unless they drive an awful lot. SYNC difference might matter, too. The bigger question remains how the 2014 spent the 6 years prior to its 2020 registration with a second owner, per Carfax. Like your car, @plus 3 golfer, the 2017's mileage indicates its been used and maintained continuously, so the long term reliability outlook is very good. I had no doubts my 2013 would have remained reliable beyond the 66K miles at trade-in. This 2014 has some explaining to do. Frank Edited December 5, 2020 by fbov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 5 hours ago, fbov said: On paper, that's true. But at 10K miles today, it's unlikely they'll see a failure in the next 1.5 years unless they drive an awful lot. ... Correct, which is why one should factor in say 0 - $3500 into the purchase cost for a potential transmission replacement on the 2014 (depending on one’s risk tolerance). We don’t know the cost difference (17 vs 14) but It wouldn’t surprise me if the difference in price is minimal. And, most buyer will likely not know of the potential need for transmission replacement, thus pay too much for the 2014, and then will not be happy when dealer tells them it’s around $8000 should they have a failure after 1.5 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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