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Guess I would try disconnecting 12V battery for a minute. Master Reset!

Recent problem I've never seen before or even heard of. Usually when I stop & turn off the car, when I return the radio & climate control & others start back where they were. Now the CC has to be manually turned on, always reverting to AUTO mode, AC on & no directional settings. Pulled the CC fuse [#71], started car with fuse out, reinserted fuse hoping to reboot CC. No effect. It acts as if the CC module has a button battery for memory that has gone bad. Really, Really don't want to take to local Ford dealer as they charge $175 just to look. THANKS for any advice & thanks for the read.

Gotcha, I appreciate the reply though! I’ll definitely have to do some research on FORScan versions. As for the comments, I’ll link the thread that has them. It’s about some work around a guy did by wiring a relay, so that the radio shuts off/on with ignition. A couple people there commented on their run ins with dealerships and TSBs.

I haven't unfortunately. Had a lot of changes with my #dayjob situation the past couple years that I haven't had any free time to dig in to C-Max related stuff I've wanted to do. I have a long todo list built up already. lol. The update is pretty easy and quick. You just need access to a Forscan version that has the ability to do firmware updates (or Ford's IDS/FDRS and a compatible adapter). I believe you need to reach out to their support team now for that. Not sure. But you'd just go to the ACM firmware update pane and it should show available updates that Forscan has documented. The entire process takes under 10 minutes as I recall. If there are any concerns about health of your 12v battery, it's probably a good idea to put a battery tender/maintainer on it capable of at least 8-10 amps output. During the update process by default it shuts down the rest of the vehicle so the DC-DC converter (or EVSE if you have an Energi) should not be relied upon. I'm curious about the comment about the TSB though. I haven't seen those same comments/posts. Got any links? I'd be curious if the proper module was not done and maybe the ACM was confused with the Sync system?

Hi, just wondering if you were able to post that. I tried hunting it down by looking at your profile but didn’t find it. Is it easy to perform? I’ve read other posts that say the problem comes back even after a dealership performs the TSB.

Are you sure about the antenna? The 3G models use an internal antenna while the 4G ones require an external one. I believe a few people have been 'successful' running without one to some degree but it really works best with an external antenna and the official Ford service docs for the upgrade include that and the appropriate OEM antenna with the process. If you don't have an external antenna attached, this is one I personally use and I believe early on it was linked to by a number of people doing this upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFLWY77 The only caveat is that will throw a code on the TCU about a circuit/ground issue on the antenna but otherwise it appears to be harmless and works fine.

Try 10mm , this is what my other Ford uses the battery bolts.

After looking into the cost to replace sensors [$40 to $50 each], i just decided to grin & bear it. Old toothbrush didn't help as one has been in my car wash & wax toolkit for years. Rate of happening did seem to reduce when I switched my daily drive from a 2-lane road to a 4-lane bypass due to school bus traffic.

Early model SE's had problem with water intrusion in the wiring in the front of the car. I think there was TSB about it. May not be related to your problem but sounds similar.

Hi @nogoodbum - my car just started doing the same! Just wonder if you were able to resolve the issue and how? Thank you!

Hey everyone, My 2017 C-Max Energi has developed an electrical issue with the parking sensors, seemingly triggered by moisture. Whenever I drive in the rain or through slushy, snowy conditions, the parking sensor randomly goes off with a long beep when stopping at traffic lights—even when there’s nothing around. This only happens in stop-and-go, wet environments. While it’s more of an annoyance than a drivability issue, I’d love to get to the bottom of it. Unfortunately, based on past experiences, I have little faith in my local Ford dealer diagnosing the issue properly—they’d likely just throw parts at it without actually solving anything. The car has only 50k miles, has been well cared for, and has never been flooded. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas on potential fixes or workarounds? Thanks in advance!

help i have the same problem my check transmission light is on ive changed oil ive spent 1200 euros on rebulding certain gears 4 and reverse ar always the biggest problem on the B clucth then after a while 2nd a third then your stuc on first and secodnd for a while thats exactly where i am it wont go past 40 kph i dont have enough money to fix it properly i need a solution that will at least give me some time

I am remanufacturing a C-Max battery, and I am really struggling to find the socket I need to take the bus bars off I've tried a 6 point 5/16, a 12 point in metric, standard, and SAE, a 12 point 5/16, a spline, and security sockets. Does anyone know what I need?

I am remanufacturing a C-Max battery, and I am really struggling to find the socket I need to take the bus bars off I've tried a 6 point 5/16, a 12 point in metric, standard, and SAE, a 12 point 5/16, a spline, and security sockets. Does anyone know what I need?

What system? Is it the 8" touch screen or the 4" non touch screen. Portions of your post hint at the latter. Unfortunately it seems like those systems are a bit more problematic. I'd try first pulling fuse 67 (not to be confused with fuse 79) which is for the Sync system itself. 79 is for the ACM which is a different set of issues. See if that brings it back at least temporarily. If not, you may be looking at hardware failures which is not uncommon with those. Most people just go to aftermarket headunits with those. It's often not worth the limited functionality the basic Sync system provides on those and having to pay the cost and risk it going out again. The 8" touch screen systems are a whole different beast. Usually Sync 3 units (2016+ model years) are rock solid. Older Sync 2/MFT hardware (2013-2015) is pretty ok especially once they're fully updated. Some hardware failures exist but aren't nearly as common. These are also easily upgraded to Sync 3 which I personally highly recommend if you can afford it. You get the benefit of a newer more reliable infotainment system and added Android Auto/CarPlay functionality from a fully OEM/integrated system. And it's virtually a plug and play upgrade. Semi-related comment: But for people shopping around for these vehicles, one of my main recommendations is going for one with the 8" touch screen infotainment if possible. Sounds counter-intuitive but they've gotten more attention and fixes over time compared to the 4" models.

144,000 miles on my 2016 C-Max Energi SEL. I am the second owner. I've owned it since 93,000 , and it just had a few issues. One a cabin air pump, and the other is a auxiliary coolant pump. Overall, the vehicle has been solid otherwise, and I intend to use it as mostly an in-town vehicle as we have 2 other vehicles for the two of us. This vehicle is no Toyota Prius but it is more luxury than that vehicle. If you need lowest cost I am sure the Prius can't be beat. I think one thing that is not well understood out there is, if well cared for, the vehicle's (expensive) battery pack is not a reliability concern, I did think it was, it should not be. I still get 18-19 miles of charge even at these high miles. I may run it another 4 to 5 years and move on to something pure electric.

What year is your car and do you know what version of sync you are running? If you are running 3.8 or earlier I can send you 3.10 version to try but if you have a hardware problem it may crash and burn when installing.

I've been unable to use bluetooth in my car for the last few months now. It worked great when I got it used from a dealership, there were a few times where it went out and I had to do the fuse trick I've read online places to get it working again, but it seems to have gone out for good. I'm unable to get to any master reset settings, or system settings in general. When hit settings and try to navigate to "phone", it doesn't go anywhere. When I hit "Media", and navigate to the sync area, it's a blank screen. The voice control module does absolutely nothing. I saw a few guides online mention holding the power and seek up buttons but those don't seem to work on this stereo. Does anybody have any other tricks I can try to reset my stereo or reset sync? Is there a way to reinstall sync without taking it to a dealership? Thanks!

Got a local Ford dealer to do the upgrade using TCU HJ5Z19K350UM. They said it did take a little work to make it fit as it was slightly larger. Does anyone know the best 4G antenna for this? They didn't replace the 3G antenna, and this seems to be working, so I'd rather make sure I'm going forward with the best antenna before changing.

This happened to me briefly about a year ago, but went away if its own accord. yesterday had the coolant system replaced and now its doing it upon acceleration. I sound like a hot rod. I’m hesitant to take it back to the mechanic if it’s just an electronic noise cancellation system problem.

i don't know what to do. service light went on in November, 2024. i had it serviced at Ford which has always been good at oil changes without a large bill, $60. A dozen things were replaced, things that apparently didn't need to be done according to 2 car friends. car is 7 yrs old but only 30,000 miles. was ok for a month then in december the wrench light went on for a day and took it for service. relaced 12 volt battery in back which was appartently overlooked the first time. then in january service light went on again but went off after 2 days. now in february service went off again but service dept could find nothing wrong. service light went off for a month. just now in march 2025 light came on again and wrench light too, but only for a day. i don't know what to do. my grandson is bringing his scanner tomorrow to see what he can determine. any and all ideas welcome from you all. thanks.

Glad you found a great place to get your car repaired. I hate the mentality of just changing stuff until fixing the problem at your expense. Doesn't anyone troubleshoot anymore?

I took my 2013 Energi to the local Ford dealer to get the suspension worked on, and to take care of a few other things. They did the suspension work just fine, but then the fun started. In the process of replacing my right front turn signal bulb, I had somehow disconnected the windshield washer reservoir from the pump, so I asked for them to fix that. My horn worked when it was cold outside, but not when it's warm; this smells like a loose connection somewhere. One of my tires had a one-week leak (that is, it needed more air every week). They wanted to sell me new tires. I rejected that, even though the tires are rather worn, but asked them to just fix the leak. They wanted to sell me a new horn, for a couple of hundred. They wanted another couple of hundred to replace the windshield washer. Worst, they couldn't find the leak. I can think of only three ways for them to miss the leak: the order writer assumed I'd buy new tires, so didn't ask for the fix; the tech assumed a tire sale, and didn't check; or the tech couldn't find a freakin' one-week leak. None of these instill confidence. I went to a nearby tire+repair place (a regional chain called Sullivan's), ordered four new tires (Goodyear WeatherReady, I'm tired of wheelspin in the rain), and asked them to look into the other things, giving them all the info I had (ie, just reseat all the horn connections you can reach). The result: four new tires, no charge for the other repairs. Since I plan to drive this car until it dissolves out from under me, I didn't cheap out on the tires, so perhaps Sullivan decided that the tire profit covered the other stuff. In any case, they're my go-to for everything except recalls from here on out. I heartily recommend against Acton Ford for anybody in the Boston suburbs.

Any update on this? I'm wondering which conversion kit I need to buy for my 2014 SEL. The GPS location on the OEM NAV is wildly inaccurate. Figure if I have to access the stereo to attach a new antenna it might be time to just replace the whole unit. Thanks!