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There are jump points under the hood. Use those first to try and jump the vehicle long enough to open the hatch. Seeing issues people have had doing this in the past, you may want to verify you have a solid connection especially on the grounding post (the long grey 'bolt' sticking up in the engine bay on the drivers side near the headlight). Also may need to give it some time if the battery has been seriously discharged to give it enough juice for the appropriate modules to wake up. The BCM is in charge of the locking system and the latching mechanism in the hatch. If the door locks work and interior lights are lit, it should be enough to open the hatch. If all this fails, you'll unfortunately need to climb over the back seat and figure out how to access the battery that way which will be a HUGE paint in the ass. Try the above options first.

Hi Mantasss, Welcome to the Forum! 🤝 It sounds that you will need a Type 2 to type 1 J1772 adapter. The CMax energi support up to 3.3 kW charging, it is possible to plug into chargers including Level 2 that have a higher power rating but the car will charge at 3.3kW regardless.

How can we do this if the liftgate is closed? The battery is dead.

You need to find out what the check engine codes are, as it could be many problems. Ask the dealer what they were or better yet take it to AutoZone or the like to have them read the codes.

Excellent info and write-up. Thanks for sharing.

I know this post is 5 yrs old. Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution. 2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles. Rough running, flashing engine MIL light, P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup). I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier). First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire. Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors... Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips. I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil. Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip. Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes. Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right. Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built). Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone. Hope this helps someone.

Hello all - I'm hoping you can advise, as I have a similar issue. I had issues last winter with my 2017 Cmax Energi. It ran fine on the electric engine, but seemed to have trouble switching to the gas engine for passing, or when the electric charge ran out. It also chugged a bit when on the gas engine and I turned the key to shut off the car. It was worse in cold weather. I got the wrench light and took it to a mechanic who drove it around a bunch and couldn't get the light to come back on. So, I kept driving it, and noticed it still had a lag in getting the usual oomph when trying to pass, but otherwise charged and drove well. This winter, the probaly started early, when temps really weren't that cold (by Montana standards). The same issue with switching to the gas engine and chugging when turned off. The wrench light came on, then the engine light, and that stayed on. I took it to the dealership and they tell me I need a new high-voltage electric battery, to the tune of almost $8K. There is 108,000 miles on it, so I'm told it's out of warranty for the EV system. Any advice? Is it worth taking it somewhere for a second opinion (there aren't many mechanics here that work on EVs.)? I don't know if the car is even worth that. It seems the issue is switching to the gas engine, so could it be a different problem?

The ACM needs its calibration/firmware updated. Ford has a TSB out for this. It will fix the issue permanently.

My 2017 C-Max Titanium has started too intermittently open the hatchback. It occasionally does it in my garage and when shopping. Any suggestions as to what is wrong and how to stop it? 🙂

Hello, my ford cmax energi 2013 from US with J1772 charge spot. Im living in eu, most charge stations using type2. So adapter type 2 to type1 will works? Or need type2 to type1 charging cable? Cant charge at home cuz live in apartament. My ford can hold max 16A 3.7kw. Charging stations 2type 11-22kw. Im new for this

Sold it to Carvana. After many weeks on Autotrader, and many weeks of dealing with scammers, I found someone who was interested but he messaged me two days before I was due to leave the country. Between looking after the kids, and packing up our life, I couldn't find time to fit in a test drive, mechanic's inspection, etc. Carvana paid more than any other online or retail outlet ($7.2k), and then sold it 1.5 months later for $13k.

My 2014 C-MAX PHEV has stopped transmitting full power to the wheels. When I press the gas pedal to the floor, the engine roars, the electric motor turns, and the car barely moves. (It takes 14.7 seconds to reach 100 km/h.) A full inspection led to the conclusion that the clutch of the HF35 gearbox has most likely worn out. I would like to know if you have encountered this problem and how to solve it.

Hi, I have the same issue. Does anyone know how to do that?

>or 10 yr/150,000 mi if (first)sold in a CARB state. I have a 2014 Ford Cmax hybrid SE. (certified as ULEV II) It was sold in a CARB state, and is currently registered in a CARB state. I was told I needed my entire transmission replaced. This counts as a hybrid component as you mention here- but I am curious about the extended 10 year/150k miles warranty. I can't find anywhere that states that hybrid components of a ULEV II vehicle, bought and currently registered in a CARB state, will abide by the 10 year/150k miles warranty instead of the standard 8 year/100k mile warranty. I think this is my ticket to having the transmission replacement cost covered by ford. All I see addressed are AT PZEV certified vehicles being covered for 15 years/150k miles. I really need that statement that covers ULEV II vehicles, or at least 2014 hybrids being covered for 10 year/150k miles bought and registered in CARB states, and the the issue is a hybrid component.

I'm having the same issue with the red triangle 🔺️ comes on and the engine shuts off. I have a few DTC codes C21400 C42082 C45282 C46B86 F00316 does anyone know why those DTC codes would pop up?

I just started installing LED turn signal bulbs and have the same odd discrepancy -- left hyperflashing and right normal. If you solved the problem, what did you do? Thanks, Skip

my CMAX is 2013. Four times since I bought it new in 2013, and audio off indication shows up. The radio will not work, the back up warning signals do not work, and my smart phone does not work through the car. There is a solution: remove the number 79 fuse, restart the car for a minute and re-insert the fuse. The problem is solved. I am posting to see if anyone has a solution to keep this from happening. It has happened a total of four or five times over the last 11 years. Thanks.

My plan is to change both our trans fluids around 100k. Without any leaks, I'm expecting to add more than is removed due to "heat evaporation" from use (although I remember older transmissions having some venting option that cause some minimal loss). Greg

The transmission fluid actually looked like new but I believe it was a little bit low because I've added like 1/2 Liter more than I've drained

Wow, amazing! How dirty was the transmission fluid at 150k? My daughter has my old 2013 SEL with 80k , and no repairs so far. My son has 2016 Energi with 85k and no repairs so far. Doesn't go as far on battery only though.

2014 SEL has 195 k miles now, all original. Changed trans fluid myself at 150 k miles, oil change every 10 - 15 k miles with full synth oil.

Hello, came here looking for information on changing or repairing the ABS control module. Even if I wanted to pay the 3k the dealer wants to replace it, they can't get the part and have no ETA on when it will be available. If Hector reads this, did the repair work? who did you send it to? Thanks, S. Miller

Now at 82K miles on my 2017 Energi. It's given 65 mpg lifetime, with no repairs, only maintenance.

I, too, am at 60,000+ on my 2017, and wondering if things have gotten any better BEFORE I call my local dealer service dept. These dealer visits are always anxiety-ridden enough as it is, I do not need to also worry now whether or not they know EXACTLY what they're doing. That is the ONLY reason I would avail a dealer service center in the first place - out of concern (fear) that my regular automotive-service shop (which is one for the absolute best I've ever had) might take a "first time" swing at my Hybrid, and unintentionally screw something up. Much appreciation in advance for anyone who might have advice or suggestions.. Thx....