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Take it to a battery place they will load test it for free.

After having original battery replaced 20mo. ago it was 6yrs. old. New replacement interstate battery. Was completely dead this morning. How can I load test?

Thanks, disconnecting the 12v battery seems to have fixed the problem. I was surprised that the radio presets & info center trackings [left side of dash pod] both were retained. After reconnecting both began at the starting point screen but only had to push a few buttons on the steering wheel controls or the radio touchscreen to get back to normal. I guess the problem may have been started during a Sirius update that didn't quite take for some reason, [driving thru a dead signal spot for example].

No trouble, Ford dealer had best price. It was the last one they had in stock though with $18 core charge. Autozone and O'reilly both had them too as an equivalent but looked like the same battery with different stickers.

Excellent news. Thank you. Did you have any difficulty finding the replacement? My sense is the that particular battery group is hard to find. Cheers.

We changed 12V battery in my daughter's 2013 Hybrid this week. Replacement was $199 at Ford dealer. This was the cheapest price I found and cost less than non-ford solutions. Old battery lasted 7 years. Had a problem removing the plastic clamp on the bottom of the battery. The bolt got loose but failed to fully remove. Bolt was a little rusty and it was spinning the threaded nut under the plastic clamp. Was able to reach under the car and grab onto the bottom of the threaded nut with pliers to keep it from spinning for full removal. Previous battery was replaced in 2018 by ford dealer that offered a free install but unfortunately they over-tightened the nut on the Positive + clamp and that cracked the clamp body and it came apart when I removed it. Ford doesn't sell just the broken clamp part, they sell an assembly of the parts connected to it for $320. However I was able to get a universal clamp at autozone for $10 that worked just fine. After install charged the new battery fully and then ran the manual procedure to reset the battery age to 0. That process worked and was able to the run the radio 10 min after turning the car off.

Guess I would try disconnecting 12V battery for a minute. Master Reset!

Recent problem I've never seen before or even heard of. Usually when I stop & turn off the car, when I return the radio & climate control & others start back where they were. Now the CC has to be manually turned on, always reverting to AUTO mode, AC on & no directional settings. Pulled the CC fuse [#71], started car with fuse out, reinserted fuse hoping to reboot CC. No effect. It acts as if the CC module has a button battery for memory that has gone bad. Really, Really don't want to take to local Ford dealer as they charge $175 just to look. THANKS for any advice & thanks for the read.

Gotcha, I appreciate the reply though! I’ll definitely have to do some research on FORScan versions. As for the comments, I’ll link the thread that has them. It’s about some work around a guy did by wiring a relay, so that the radio shuts off/on with ignition. A couple people there commented on their run ins with dealerships and TSBs.

I haven't unfortunately. Had a lot of changes with my #dayjob situation the past couple years that I haven't had any free time to dig in to C-Max related stuff I've wanted to do. I have a long todo list built up already. lol. The update is pretty easy and quick. You just need access to a Forscan version that has the ability to do firmware updates (or Ford's IDS/FDRS and a compatible adapter). I believe you need to reach out to their support team now for that. Not sure. But you'd just go to the ACM firmware update pane and it should show available updates that Forscan has documented. The entire process takes under 10 minutes as I recall. If there are any concerns about health of your 12v battery, it's probably a good idea to put a battery tender/maintainer on it capable of at least 8-10 amps output. During the update process by default it shuts down the rest of the vehicle so the DC-DC converter (or EVSE if you have an Energi) should not be relied upon. I'm curious about the comment about the TSB though. I haven't seen those same comments/posts. Got any links? I'd be curious if the proper module was not done and maybe the ACM was confused with the Sync system?

Hi, just wondering if you were able to post that. I tried hunting it down by looking at your profile but didn’t find it. Is it easy to perform? I’ve read other posts that say the problem comes back even after a dealership performs the TSB.

Are you sure about the antenna? The 3G models use an internal antenna while the 4G ones require an external one. I believe a few people have been 'successful' running without one to some degree but it really works best with an external antenna and the official Ford service docs for the upgrade include that and the appropriate OEM antenna with the process. If you don't have an external antenna attached, this is one I personally use and I believe early on it was linked to by a number of people doing this upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFLWY77 The only caveat is that will throw a code on the TCU about a circuit/ground issue on the antenna but otherwise it appears to be harmless and works fine.

Try 10mm , this is what my other Ford uses the battery bolts.

After looking into the cost to replace sensors [$40 to $50 each], i just decided to grin & bear it. Old toothbrush didn't help as one has been in my car wash & wax toolkit for years. Rate of happening did seem to reduce when I switched my daily drive from a 2-lane road to a 4-lane bypass due to school bus traffic.

Early model SE's had problem with water intrusion in the wiring in the front of the car. I think there was TSB about it. May not be related to your problem but sounds similar.

Hi @nogoodbum - my car just started doing the same! Just wonder if you were able to resolve the issue and how? Thank you!

Hey everyone, My 2017 C-Max Energi has developed an electrical issue with the parking sensors, seemingly triggered by moisture. Whenever I drive in the rain or through slushy, snowy conditions, the parking sensor randomly goes off with a long beep when stopping at traffic lights—even when there’s nothing around. This only happens in stop-and-go, wet environments. While it’s more of an annoyance than a drivability issue, I’d love to get to the bottom of it. Unfortunately, based on past experiences, I have little faith in my local Ford dealer diagnosing the issue properly—they’d likely just throw parts at it without actually solving anything. The car has only 50k miles, has been well cared for, and has never been flooded. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas on potential fixes or workarounds? Thanks in advance!

help i have the same problem my check transmission light is on ive changed oil ive spent 1200 euros on rebulding certain gears 4 and reverse ar always the biggest problem on the B clucth then after a while 2nd a third then your stuc on first and secodnd for a while thats exactly where i am it wont go past 40 kph i dont have enough money to fix it properly i need a solution that will at least give me some time

I am remanufacturing a C-Max battery, and I am really struggling to find the socket I need to take the bus bars off I've tried a 6 point 5/16, a 12 point in metric, standard, and SAE, a 12 point 5/16, a spline, and security sockets. Does anyone know what I need?

I am remanufacturing a C-Max battery, and I am really struggling to find the socket I need to take the bus bars off I've tried a 6 point 5/16, a 12 point in metric, standard, and SAE, a 12 point 5/16, a spline, and security sockets. Does anyone know what I need?

What system? Is it the 8" touch screen or the 4" non touch screen. Portions of your post hint at the latter. Unfortunately it seems like those systems are a bit more problematic. I'd try first pulling fuse 67 (not to be confused with fuse 79) which is for the Sync system itself. 79 is for the ACM which is a different set of issues. See if that brings it back at least temporarily. If not, you may be looking at hardware failures which is not uncommon with those. Most people just go to aftermarket headunits with those. It's often not worth the limited functionality the basic Sync system provides on those and having to pay the cost and risk it going out again. The 8" touch screen systems are a whole different beast. Usually Sync 3 units (2016+ model years) are rock solid. Older Sync 2/MFT hardware (2013-2015) is pretty ok especially once they're fully updated. Some hardware failures exist but aren't nearly as common. These are also easily upgraded to Sync 3 which I personally highly recommend if you can afford it. You get the benefit of a newer more reliable infotainment system and added Android Auto/CarPlay functionality from a fully OEM/integrated system. And it's virtually a plug and play upgrade. Semi-related comment: But for people shopping around for these vehicles, one of my main recommendations is going for one with the 8" touch screen infotainment if possible. Sounds counter-intuitive but they've gotten more attention and fixes over time compared to the 4" models.

144,000 miles on my 2016 C-Max Energi SEL. I am the second owner. I've owned it since 93,000 , and it just had a few issues. One a cabin air pump, and the other is a auxiliary coolant pump. Overall, the vehicle has been solid otherwise, and I intend to use it as mostly an in-town vehicle as we have 2 other vehicles for the two of us. This vehicle is no Toyota Prius but it is more luxury than that vehicle. If you need lowest cost I am sure the Prius can't be beat. I think one thing that is not well understood out there is, if well cared for, the vehicle's (expensive) battery pack is not a reliability concern, I did think it was, it should not be. I still get 18-19 miles of charge even at these high miles. I may run it another 4 to 5 years and move on to something pure electric.

What year is your car and do you know what version of sync you are running? If you are running 3.8 or earlier I can send you 3.10 version to try but if you have a hardware problem it may crash and burn when installing.

I've been unable to use bluetooth in my car for the last few months now. It worked great when I got it used from a dealership, there were a few times where it went out and I had to do the fuse trick I've read online places to get it working again, but it seems to have gone out for good. I'm unable to get to any master reset settings, or system settings in general. When hit settings and try to navigate to "phone", it doesn't go anywhere. When I hit "Media", and navigate to the sync area, it's a blank screen. The voice control module does absolutely nothing. I saw a few guides online mention holding the power and seek up buttons but those don't seem to work on this stereo. Does anybody have any other tricks I can try to reset my stereo or reset sync? Is there a way to reinstall sync without taking it to a dealership? Thanks!