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Just by way of reference, here's my 2013 SEL MyView. Sorry about the reflection.

Hello, we are picking up a new to us 2018 SE tomorrow.

I do not know if this will help anyone... while i had a few moments i opened Forscan and had asked for a self test on the APIM and it came back with "no errors" but I did notice that the touch screen via the PID readouts kept cycling between present vs not present (mostly present with a split second saying not present)... thanks again in advance

@cr08, I did have to update the car via Ford's update and then found out Cynlabs, which I am now running Sync 3.4.23188 via 8" touch. What is weird is back when it was just the Ford's update and after the very cold snap (live in the midwest) is when the screen started to "blink", meaning that if key was on the screen was on and did not have any issues. One day near Christmas time I washed my car to clean the salt and grime off then the screen started to blink (I believe coincidental not cause). Headlamp position does not matter... My "blink" is a bit on the slower side, Bright for about 2 seconds, then Dim for about 2 seconds then "off" for about 4/5 seconds. I believe that the issue is with the "TV"/ screen because if I use the touchsreen it does work regardless what part of the "blink" it is in, and the "radio" has no trouble playing any sound.

I think I bought the same inflator kit that @cr08 did when I destroyed my stock one. Nice little kit, "feels" much cheaper and less solid than the stock, but it inflates faster and the auto cutoff is really nice. I got mine at the local Ace Hardware.

Thanks for posting this, I did find the Tach under my view, but no oil temp. I'm going to try it out for a bit, and see how it works. My C-Max is a 2013, SEL, so not sure if they updated those options after my year model or not. At any rate, Thanks again.

Just taking a wild guess here: Do you have the 4" basic non-touch screen system or the 8" touch screen? For the 2017 hybrid SE models the latter was available as an option, not standard. If you do have the 8" touch screen, can you confirm with the images linked below if yours looks closer to Sync 3 or Sync 4? https://api.mss.ford.com/dbi-kb/api/knowledge/v1/search/get-drupal-file/sites/default/files/2024-10/Ford SYNC Visual Reference Guide English_0.pdf If closer to Sync 4, that's Sync 3.4 for our vehicles. The previous owner would have manually done that upgrade as Ford doesn't officially sanction or offer it themselves. One thing that is 'broken' is the flickering screen when the brightness changes. But it's more a rapid flickering. ----- Beyond that guess, another thing you could try is seeing if the behavior changes with different headlamp switch positions (try them all: Off, park lamps, low beams, auto). Also checking Forscan for any codes may also be worth trying as long as you have an MS-CAN capable adapter as anything related will likely be on that bus.

If there is a light sensor to adjust the screen brightness depending on the ambient light perhaps that is the culprit.

Thanks Greg, but I have done a master reset with no avail either… I am thinking it may be the “tv” screen.

Similar to cr08, I keep a can of fixaflat in each vehicle. Would also recommend shoving a small jump-pack under a seat for any emergencies. Greg

Ountersee 1. I would try a vehicle 'reset' via your steering wheel control: To reset a Ford C-Max Sync 3, navigate to Settings > General > Master Reset on the touchscreen; this will completely erase all stored information and restore the system to factory defaults, prompting you to confirm before the reset occurs; remember to disconnect any paired Bluetooth devices or USB drives before performing a master reset. 2. Other: My 2018 cmax screen always fades in and out with the light sensing nonsense, so I selected 'dark screen' from the display menu options. 3. If those don't work, bad switch/wire maybe? Hopefully one of the first two work; otherwise, more work needed... Greg

For me I've basically skipped refreshing the included tire kit/inflator. Ulterior motive for that being I found mine had an air leak somewhere and wouldn't get up past around 20 psi. Instead I just got a cheap tire inflator from the local big box store. Slime branded model that also has a digital pressure readout and auto-stop once it reaches your set pressure. Then just a simple tire plug kit to go along with it. Both are small enough to stash under the lip in the cargo area on my Energi and the old space under the passenger seat is now open for extra storage.

Hello I have purchased a 17 c-max hybrid se (used but new to me)... when I got the car the screen was fine but now the screen "blinks" (bright-dim-off), everything works except the "blinking"... I have already tried to pull the fuse/ skip forward & power "reset" but still no avail... called local Ford dealership but no help because better to have tech figure it out... I do have Forscan "extended"... I am trying to figure out what "part" is the cause and if I can fix it... Thanks in advance

Haha this cannot be shipped to California........... The size looks a little too big to fit in the little compartment under the passenger seat. If you buy the Genuine Motorcraft replacement canister, don't buy from Amazon, they will ship old stock. I sent 2 back that expired in 2-1/2 years. Rock Auto first sent me one that someone switched an expired one in, sent that back & got one that expired in 5.2 years. I tried Rock Auto first, in the time it took to return the defective one & get the good one I ordered & returned 2 from Amazon. They're slow but worth it, both around the same price (free shipping Amazon, $7.99 ground shipping Rock Auto). Edit: I did wait to get the store credit from Rock before purchasing another one, that added more time. Total price w/shipping is around $36 at Rock, $39 at Amazon with free shipping.

Actually, I reset the battery life monitor myself with FORScan, the only contact I had with the dealer was by phone requesting the service history. Edit: I did reset the avg mpg (not using FORScan), you think it reset battery range too?

The EV miles is likely because the dealer reset the whole vehicle when you requested a 'reset' and it needs to figure out the real mileage again. The 12v battery won't have any impact on that. Real world your EV range is not going to change. But yes, I don't trust most dealers or independent mechanics to know to do the lifetime reset. Pretty much anyone who has been in the community long enough recommends owners to do it themselves after a battery replacement no matter if the mechanic/dealer said they did it or not.

I've read a lot of posts here about 12v battery failures, SOC, & monitors. All have been 5 or more years ago, so I thought I'd start a new thread. I recently acquired my 2014 C-Max Energi SEL from my sister in law who is no longer able to drive. She bought it used from a Ford dealer in 2017 with 25k miles. At my insistence she purchased the extended warranty. That car has over 500 computers in it & only Ford (at that time) had the software. I said if you want to buy that car, you have to buy that contract. She also got the service contract & the (worthless, IMHO) $2500 anti theft rider. Anyway, she immediately had a dead 12v battery, took it to her local dealer (not the selling dealer 30 miles away) & they said it wasn't covered. She raised a stink & I think she took it back to the selling dealer & got it replaced. In either event, it was replaced. I had plugged it in whenever she came over, & the most I could get on the battery range meter was 14 miles. She has since always taken it to the local Ford dealer for every service they tell her to. Battery was replaced 11/21/23. She never plugged it in, I think the only time it was ever plugged in were the (very) few times it was at my house. Just before I got it she only drove a lot of short trips. Her daughter said if I leave it parked very long, battery will go dead. It had 33k miles on it, she only put 8k on it in 7 years. I have been plugging it in every night, got the battery range up to 19 miles. From what I've learned on this forum is there is a 12v battery life counter that regulates charging based on battery age, so I got FORScan lite & the required adapter & checked the battery age. 3772 days! That was October of 2014, so the meter had NEVER been reset. This after two new batteries (that I can confirm) installed by Ford dealers. The computer thought the battery was pretty much a ghost I presume. I think the SOC was around 64% on FORScan. I called the (most recent) dealer to confirm the battery was replaced & advised them to tell their techs to reset the monitor, then I reset it. What I notice now is that my battery range increased to 29 miles! Is that based on the HVB not continuously charging a very old 12v battery? The SOC is now a lot better too, last I checked I think it was low 90s. One of the first times driving it, when I got on the throttle it blew all the built up condensation out of the exhaust. I looked like a skywriter, talk about a smoke screen!! I now know how to use EV Only & EV Later, so if I'm taking short trips I use EV Only so the ICE never starts. Longer trips I use EV Later to run the ICE more. I've also learned to "start" the ICE in the driveway using the throttle, it only works in park, that way you can start the engine to get oil circulating instead of a sudden acceleration which would start the engine & IMMEDIATELY put it under load. It will idle on it's own for a while to get engine up to temperature. If you have had your 12v battery replaced, get the monitor reset, or INSIST if you're at a Ford dealer that they reset it. From what I've read on here, the Ford techs don't know anything about it.

No the fuel mileage should be the same based on whatever high miles on the odo that you are at (assuming the vehicle is perfectly maintained). My HV battery at 144000 miles still delivers 19 miles of EV charge, and I can easily push 50 MPG around town driving. Overall is 38-40MPG if I do lots of highway. 2016 Energi model

The C-Max both Hybrid and Energi are complicated and will cost you plenty to repair, at some point you may just walk away.... especially if the HV battery dies completely. That said Prius has delivered amazing customer experiences (into the 400,000 range and higher), with a relentless push on total , durability and quality. I think that's the thing Toyota has is that mindset of 20 year durability. Ford doesn't care beyond 10 years I think... but Ford does get better with time I think. Nobody is catching Toyota, in fact they may be slipping a bit, based on listening to experts that really know the Toyota mindset at the corporate level.

My 2016 Energi has 143,000 miles on it. I did have the dreaded P0AA6 *(HV system isolation fault) which can be a bad HV battery ($6,000 from Ford just for the battery pack). Instead of a bad HV battery it seems to have been the cabin air pump used to cool the interior and HV battery "box"... they cleared all the codes and since that fix, the vehicle has run several hundreds of miles with out issue. That part was under Ford warranty (as part of the battery and emissions warranty from California CARB, which was 150,000 miles OR 10 years). Whew I was lucky! Ford techs at 3 service/parts places say they replace the HV battery mostly when they have gotten wet because of cabin leaks, or other water damage, or when the vehicle has been in an accident. My battery pack still delivers 19 miles of charge at 143,000 miles on the odometer and 8.5 service years of life. I will drive this till the battery or engine dies mostly likely, till 2030 at least when I want to buy a Rivian R3 at that point. These battery packs should last 100-200K miles I would think. My vehicle is still very fuel efficient, with average driving (plenty of highway) 38 MPG, with mostly electric (around town) I can do much better than that. It is of course a comfortable and practical car as well. Ford made a complicated vehicle but the quality is there. Edited just now by fxo

My 2016 Energi has 143,000 miles on it. I did have the dreaded P0AA6 *(HV system isolation fault) which can be a bad HV battery ($6,000 from Ford just for the battery pack). Instead of a bad HV battery it seems to have been the cabin air pump used to cool the interior and HV battery "box"... they cleared all the codes and since that fix, the vehicle has run several hundreds of miles with out issue. That part was under Ford warranty (as part of the battery and emissions warranty from California CARB, which was 150,000 miles OR 10 years). Whew I was lucky! Ford techs at 3 service/parts places say they replace the HV battery mostly when they have gotten wet because of cabin leaks, or other water damage, or when the vehicle has been in an accident. My battery pack still delivers 19 miles of charge at 143,000 miles on the odometer and 8.5 service years of life. I will drive this till the battery or engine dies mostly likely, till 2030 at least when I want to buy a Rivian R3 at that point. These battery packs should last 100-200K miles I would think. My vehicle is still very fuel efficient, with average driving (plenty of highway) 38 MPG, with mostly electric (around town) I can do much better than that. It is of course a comfortable and practical car as well. Ford made a complicated vehicle but the quality is there.

2013 SEL, 190k here, Average between 40 to 43 mpg depending on outside temps mostly, majority of driving is highway at an average of 55 to 65mph. Did average a bit more [1-2mpg] prior to my last tire replacement. Gas mileage is hit by many different factors. I would look into the tires & pressures they are set at [some tire techs will not check for correct PSI]. You may want to swap out the air filter & plugs earlier than the manual calls for. Thanks for the read.

My 2013 SEL Hybrid with about 70k after 10 years averaged about 40mpg in the winter and about 50mpg in the summer. That is using the seat heaters and heater after the engine warms up. Lifetime was 45mpg. Using the ICE going up hills and electric on flat lands and down hill when possible. But it doesn't get super cold here normally in PNW. Didn't notice any drop off in mpgs.

Colder weather? This started many months ago....and I don't use the heater. I've had the car a long time, through other "colder weather." And as I said, driving habits the same -- definitely not "driving higher freeway speeds," of course I know what happens at 70 mph....my question was "Do others experience ..."

Are you sure it is not just the colder weather and running the heater more killing your mpgs? Also driving higher freeway speeds will do it too.