cr08

I'd first start by getting the actual capacity of the battery currently. The estimated range is practically useless as a health indicator as a lot of factors can impact the numbers. Here's the test you need to do: 1) Fully charge the car 2) Drive it in EV mode ONLY (avoid things that can cause the ICE to start, ie: No highway driving, no cabin heat, as few active accessories as possible) 3) Drive until the plug-in charge is depleted. 4) Once the plug-in charge is used and it falls back to hybrid operation, safely stop somewhere and shut off the car. The trip summary on the left screen will list the kwh used. This is the number you need. 5.5kwh is the brand new plug-in capacity from the factory. Anything above 4.0 is still in good territory.

Also in case you haven't caught the reply I made in your other thread, you really should avoid using EV mode (Auto with EV charge available or EV Now) on the highway as it really stresses the battery. If you have charge available, switch to EV Later. If the plug-in charge is depleted, EV Auto (it won't let you switch out of it in this case) will operate in the 'safer' hybrid operation. Other than that, the other comments here are correct. The battery still has some level of charge internally like 10-15% or thereabouts for that fallback hybrid operation that it constantly cycles up and down as you drive.

A lot to unpack here: First off, Ford's original 'up to 20 miles' was optimistic and considered the most efficient driving scenario which would be in town stop and go driving. All EVs (PHEV's like the Energi included) are going to be less efficient and have less range in highway driving. In fact it is highly recommended not to drive EV mode on the highway because it stresses the battery and accelerates degradation. Switch to EV Later and save the battery for in town driving/roads under 45-50mph. The range estimate is also just a guess by the system and often referred to as the 'guess-o-meter'. There's many factors that can impact what range it shows and as such is not a reliable indicator of overall battery health. If you want to check the current health, the procedure below is the best way to do so: 1) Fully charge the vehicle 2) Drive in EV mode ONLY, avoiding scenarios that can cause the ICE/engine to start. This means no highway driving, avoid cabin heat/defrost as much as possible. The fewer running accessories the better. 3) Drive until the plug-in charge is depleted and it drops back to hybrid operation. Safely stop the car and shut it off. 4) Upon shutting off the car, you will have a trip summary screen show on the dash. the Kwh used number is what you're looking for. 5.5kwh is what is expected brand new from the factory. 4.0 or higher is still in good territory. Doing this will also give you more reasonable 'EV miles driven' in that summary that will be a bit more accurate than your highway driving test. The car is perfect for long distance driving IMHO and I've taken mine on plenty of cross country road trips and love it. But some expectations have to be tempered here. Using EV on the highway is not advisable and you really should run it as a hybrid in those cases. It's also not going to be as efficient as a Prius in hybrid mode. That said in my first hand experience I can easily average 37-40mpg highway with cruise set and following posted speed limits +5mph or so depending on the traffic. Lowering speed will definitely improve that and other owners have documented notable mileage increases doing so.

You're fine. The battery has a nice sturdy metal case around it. In fact you can pull up the carpeting back there and see what it looks like. It's just attached with velcro. I know on my Energi I briefly had about a dozen bags of sand from the local big box store loaded, probably well over the vehicle's payload. The battery is no worse for wear.

Text version: Key on but vehicle NOT running/started (for keyless ignition, press the start button without the brake pedal) Press and both brake and gas pedals. The dash should indicate the oil life is being reset. Continue to hold both pedals until it says it is complete. If planning to take off immediately, shut off the car fully and restart so the reset takes properly.

One more small update. Looks like we have confirmation on what the latest calibration is on these modems. Had a user post a screenshot from FJDS over on the CyanLabs' forum and looks like UP is the latest calibration level which I know some of us are already on. Although now with a lot of EV functions being removed for us, it's not as big of a deal as it once was. https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/tcu-waiting-for-home-url/13279/16

My guess is it either has the 3G modem or the older 2G modem before that. 3G is more likely since that was a free upgrade but I have heard of a few rare cases where it wasn't done (and useless to do now. Ford won't even allow installation of the 3G modems now). 4G most seem to have skipped. Probably the easiest way to tell is download the FordPass app and add your VIN and it'll tell you either to activate the connectivity functions or it'll say the vehicle doesn't have it. There's also checking the modem ESN from the about screen in Sync but I can't recall which letters/numbers indicate which version offhand.

Likely the number is just maxed out and won't move any further. Not too surprising. There should be an option in the menus to reset the lifetime stats here and start over so it can accumulate once again. But then you'd have to keep external track of these previous numbers if that matters to you. Also I wouldn't be too surprised to see 99.9% of the vehicle used in EV only operation. There were some members here early on who were REALLY particular about only operating in EV mode. I can't honestly think of any other explanation why the lifetime summary would show these numbers and not be legitimate. Even though this vehicle really isn't designed to be a full EV, it doesn't stop some from operating as such.

I know some are allergic to anything political related these days, but time to write your congresscritters and probably can't hurt to write to the CARB as well (California Air Resources Board. They have a LOT of pull as well with this kind of stuff and arguably keeping more cars on the road longer without being financially totalled and scrapped is beneficial to overall air quality/emissions/etc..). About the only way you're getting that done. I agree 100% though that the basic 'bumper to bumper warranties' need to be increased to combat the higher repair costs especially as more safety features are mandated (something I'm personally all for but I do understand and sympathize with the added cost arguments). Or maybe something that would be more feasible is enforce a dedicated warranty for said safety features that goes to that 5-10 year/100-150k mile area).

It's because on these early vehicles (ie: ANY C-Max or Fusion Hybrid/Energi up until the final model years before the new vehicles like the Escape/Maverick/Mach-E/Lightning/etc took over) they are not warrantied for any level of degradation. Per Ford's own legalese as long as the car drives, it's functioning as intended no matter how bad the battery is degraded. It's not surprising seeing these low 'range' numbers on these early model years especially if they've been through a few owners and racked up the miles. If the car was just driven like a normal car in that time without any care taken towards the battery, this is what you can expect. The charge time the OP mentioned is also not unexpected as a result. My 2013 with around ~3.5kwh capacity remaining usually only takes about 4 hours at L1 for a full charge vs the original ~6 hours. Ultimately Ford left some big loopholes in the programming of various systems in these vehicles allowing owners to easily degrade the battery if they just drive as-is. There are a number of voluntary precautions one can take to better manage it like not using EV mode on the highway, monitoring battery temp and keeping it in check, limiting power draw, etc.. (Now that I'm thinking about it, I don't think there's any concise list of recommended steps online that might be worth working on) That all said, I'll use the same boilerplate response to these types of posts: The miles of range is merely an estimate or guess and can vary wildly depending on various conditions like previous driving behaviors, ambient temp, HVAC use, etc.. If you want an insight into the TRUE battery capacity remaining, the following test needs to be done: 1) Fully charge the car to 100% 2) Drive in EV mode only, avoiding anything that can start the ICE like highway driving or cabin heat usage. If the ICE starts during the trip, the test is immediately invalidated. 3) Drive until the plug-in charge is depleted and it drops back to hybrid operation. 4) Safely stop the car (or use one of the trip meters but make sure to reset it before this test) and shut it off. The trip summary will list the kwh used. Brand new from the factory plug-in capacity is 5.5kwh. Above 4.0kwh is still in good territory.

If memory serves (without looking at the service manual which I don't have access to at the moment) the water pump main signal is over a LIN bus connection back to the PCM. LIN is referenced to battery voltage. There's a few good resources on Google explaining it but it should still be a clear digital signal (you'd want an oscilloscope for this and not a basic multimeter/voltmeter/etc) with a 1 bit being bat voltage (or near it) and a 0 is around ~1V.

The miles of range mean nothing as that can vary wildly depending on various conditions and colder weather will definitely effect it. You need to do a proper capacity test: 1) Fully charge the vehicle 2) Drive in EV mode ONLY until the battery is depleted (no highway driving, avoid cabin heat as much as possible to keep the ICE from starting. If it does, it invalidates the test) 3) Once depleted and it reverts to hybrid operation, safely stop the car and shut it off. The trip summary will list the kwh used for the trip. This is the number we need. 5.5kwh is the brand new plug-in capacity from the factory. Anything above 4.0kwh should still be 'good'.

This is correct. If the battery or hybrid system completely fails, the vehicle will no longer drive. At bare minimum the starter/generator motor in the transmission is necessary for starting the engine as well as facilitating the operation of the 'continuously variable' aspect of the eCVT and allowing the engine to properly transmit power to the wheels. This starter/generator motor is powered by the high voltage battery. That all said, there are plenty of failure modes up to the point of complete failure where the vehicle will see the battery is worn/degraded and may not be reliable to use for EV operation or higher loads but will gracefully fall back to hybrid operation or full time ICE operation and still be drivable but with reduced functionality. With how most dealers are clueless on these cars, I'd always go for a second opinion when they call for costly repairs like this. At the very least, getting any codes read and posting to a forum like this with more experienced owners who can hopefully narrow things down or confirm/deny the dealer's findings.

Modern cars command modules on/off digitally over the CAN bus instead of the old 'accessory power' wire or switching the main power feed. The radio is one of many examples of this. That said, there are still fuses that will shut off with the ignition. The power feed for the 12v ports in the front feeds off the lighting relays which means they will stay on for up to an hour or so after the car is off but then shut down. There are a number of fuses that are like this as well even for stuff not lighting related. Here's a thread that has some useful info:

I'm assuming the 'little window' you see looks almost like a Windows dialog box that pops up briefly and then the system shuts down or goes blank after? I've attached a picture from another forum that shows this. If so, that definitely sounds like the APIM. This is something I ran into on my own vehicle and have seen others report as well and usually comes down to the APIM starting to fail and needing replaced.