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Welcome to the forum. Tire noise: C-Max is so quiet you hear/notice noises you don't usually do on ICE vehicles. They should quieten down as they settle in or you get use to the noise, Inconsistent warning lights, rear hatch: possible weak 12v battery or weak battery in key fob. As an owner of a 2013, it's NOT maroon, it's called Ruby Red. Sounds more regal & expensive, don't you think?

Good to see another 2015 buyer! Just brought my little red hybrid gumdrop home late last week. I hope your seller had both the key fobs for you -- my seller didn't inform me that he had misplaced one until he had the check in hand. Best of luck to you!

I happened to be driving my 18-year-old Toyota jalopy down a nearby county road when I spotted a maroon Ford compact for sale in a yard. Thinking it was a little Fiesta I might be able to afford, I stopped to check it out. The seller stepped out to talk about it: "2015 C-Max Energi plug-in hybrid, flexible on price" (OMG -- only nine years old, might as well be brand-new!). By the end of the next day, I was cautiously pressing the accelerator to silently drive it home. By now, I have discovered many of the little surprises that come with a used car -- one missing fob (the seller promises he's looking for it), mysterious warning lights that come on inconsistently, the rear hatch latch that occasionally won't open, and a weird howl from the nearly-new General radial tires. But hey, I'm drivin' hybrid-style, going all of 15 miles on pure electrons before the ICE kicks in and starts burning dinosaur juice (didja catch that use of "ICE" to refer to the piston engine? Yes, I've been reading the forum while I waited for membership approval). So, I am extremely happy to have found this place to humbly (and occasionally stupidly) ask questions of the much more experienced C-Max drivers here. I have a few already waiting to be researched and/or written up. Thank you to all here who offer their knowledge and experience to newbies like me.

The HVB is what runs the two electric motors that conspire to start the ICE and to get ICE torque to the wheels, remember? The 12v battery is just for the accessories and the power relay that lets juice out of the HVB. If the HVB is totally dead, your car is bricked. But there's a long way to go from "can't run on battery for long" and "not enough battery to start the ICE".

Update on this... Had some time to tinker with it today, and I'm wondering if the year/model that I grabbed the ACM with in the beginning may be the culprit. It may have come out of a pre-2013 vehicle (Focus 2011-12)... but I can't remember for sure. I was just looking for other cars that had a 4" style display. In checking in the databases on CYANlabs.net, I see that the values for a 2011-12 ACM are different that the values for a 2013-14 ACM. So even though I load the 'correct' ASBuilt values for my car, the values mean something different pre-2013. Like I said earlier, I'm grasping at straws here.... Anyone be able to shed likght on this? sopund plausible? Cheers, PK

Wheel bearing is quite possible. If you can load some audio of it, that'll help diagnostics. Greg

Sorry you didn't get any responses. Did you find out what the cause/culprit was/is? I'm dealing with a general increase in noise from the front end of my 2013 (111,000 miles) while driving above 40-50 mph. Basically it's "engine noise" but much louder than before. Doesn't seem to make a difference if the car is on electric or gas.

My hybrid has 180,000 km (112,000 miles) and over the last month, I have noticed a significant increase in noise from the engine compartment (typically while driving over 50 mph). I'm going to investigate (maybe wheel bearings?) but would be curious if owners of higher mileage C-maxes have noticed a change.

Depends on the failure mode. If the pack goes lower and lower as time goes on it should still work fine on gas with shorter and shorter distances on battery. Also some people have the energi model and for various reasons never bother to charge the battery. It will still run fine as gas only. Not as efficient as the hybrid but still good mpg's. What is wrong with your battery pack?

I was curious if anyone knew if the cmax would just run as ICE if the high voltage pack were to go bad (or if I pulled it to replace the individual cells) anyone know? Don

Having this same problem with my 2015. Another thread on here seems to say the brake switch is the issue and it solved it for a few people. I'm going to try this as soon as I can. In the meantime, I'm going to see what I can do to keep the lights off, because it completely drains my (~1 yr old) battery.

Just popping on to so my 2015 cmax energie was just diagnosed with the same problem, at 66,000 miles, all regular maintenance done. I'm more out of warranty than you, but I'm interested to know if they eventually agree to work with you. As I'm reading online, this seems to be more than an isolated problem.

It might be helpful to post a picture of your display on the dash.

Hey guys, at wits end with this.... it's been awhile since I've had a chance to work on this. Last week I was able to grab another APIM from a similar 1.1 Sync system. Tore out the passenger seat and side panel in between the seats to get at the APIM. Replaced it. Hooked up Forscan and reprogrammed it to the AsBuilt values, was sure to change the ACM values (as I've stated in above posts) but still the same issue. So to recap this is my journey so far: Started out with no radio working at all. It wasn't the fuse. I replaced the ACM from a Focus in a wrecker. The radio did work, but was very quiet. I found that is I changed a value in the first line 727-01-01 xx5x xxxx xxxx (ASBuilt value) to xx0x xxxx xxxx I could at least hear the radio while driving, but I need to turn the volume up ALL the way to 30. This led me to think it may have been the DACMC (Digital Audio Control Module C). Replaced that one (behind the glove compartment, passenger side) set the values as per AsBuilt for my car.... still the same issue. Now tried another APIM and same issue. In FORscan I did Module tests on all the Modules, and they came out fine (no errors). I'm stumped.... can't see why a *!!*%?# Stereo should be so complicated!!!!!!!!! Does anybody know this system in and out? I've checked fuses all around the car that I think may be part of the issue but they are all OK... Is it some obscure fuse to a component I might not a thought connected? Any help would be appreciated.... Cheers, PK

As I understand it [& I may very well be wrong], the date function is tied into the navigation programming. Check your SD card to update the date.

Failed vehicle inspection due to "leaking" rear shocks. Shop wanted $700 to replace both. Nope. DIY and casual 4 hours later, replaced both shocks (using TRQs), rotated tires, and cleaned the HVB filter/screen behind passenger-side rear wheel tub while "in there"; screen was clogged and read that can reduce HVB charge. Shocks were slow to remove and reinstall/retorque the bottom bolts (given limited/tight access) and went ahead and replaced both upper shock brackets as well although both looked fine. Not bad overall for $200. Greg

I have this issue as well in my 2017 Energi. It looks like the cost is about $600 for the part only. Is there a cheaper solution, or do I have to spend about a thousand bucks just to stop the leak on my garage floor? Thanks!

2016 cmax date is 2004 cant change. clock has only time options how change date?

Hello have cmax 2016 with sync3 date on my car is 2004 year how can I change date? clock settings change time only, not date.

I bought some very nice Nappa leather seat covers for my 2013 CMax Se. The clips cannot be slipped under the seat because the current cover is sealed in back. Any suggestions?

Have same problem, check out ford service bulletin. TSB 17-0015 electrical cable chaffing. this is the best answer in can find after searching the net. lots of people having this problem

A quick Google/Bing search will reveal that while the actual bearings are pressed into the wheel hub, the wheel hub, it self, is a bolt in replacement part. A new wheel hub will include new bearings & should be replaceable by most qualified mechanics.

For several years, my 2017 Energi has had an intermittent squeal from the right rear wheel. It's present about 10-20% of the time, and silent otherwise. The other day, it faded in during a long drive on a fast, straight highway. After several minutes where it was plainly audible inside the car, it faded away. No brake applications were made at this time. It's also happened at parking lot speeds, loud enough to alarm pedestrians. Twice I've asked Ford shops to "take a look" at this, and they've found no problems. I thought I would just have the bearing replaced at this next oil change, but I got a surprise - a quote of $800, including three hours of labor. It seems that the C-Max has pressed-in, not bolted-on wheel bearings. Special tools are involved, This is a quirk of the C-Max, I was told. "My F-150 has bolt-on bearings," said my service advisor. Simply diagnosing the bearing would be $230, he added. If this was my Mercedes or my past VWs, I'd shop among several well-qualified independent specialist shops that would undercut the dealer's price by 30-50%. Any kind of indy Ford shop would specialize in trucks or performance cars, not our rarities. The general all-brand garages might have never even seen a C-Max. So, your experience? Advice?

Absolutely! I keep mine in the storage cubby in the back seat on the passenger side just for this reason. The small pack I have even with the jumper leads and the 120V charging cord fit just fine in there.

For those who may be unaware, the rear hatch cannot be opened if the 12v battery is dead, so do NOT keep jumper cables in the rear cubby.