All Activity

Unfortunately the BCM AsBuilt options are not well documented if at all for the C-Max, probably because the Central Configuration is the primary and preferred way to update these settings. I'll check on my own later today after work and see if I can provide more accurate information. I also have a 2013 Energi SEL The modules are the same with the hybrid models.

I tried that but still cannot get views of anything more that tpms options. I also tried to look at the bcm on my 2013 fiesta and could only see the truck remote unlock. But if I choose the as built configuration I see plenty but, I don't know the address and values to disable the double honk. Does anyone out there know which address and values I need to change to disable the double honk on my 2013 Cmax sel?

On my other Ford, a 2013 Fiesta, my radio would crackle and quit. I sent it to Cboard repair. They did a very good job by replacing it. But it took a couple of months. Total price was about $250.

I believe you're going to want to look into the Central Configuration specific option. That's where a lot of BCM related functions are stored. You should be seeing a LOT more there than just TPMS options. If you still only see those, check if there's a dropdown on that screen for different modes like 'engineering mode' or similar. It's been a while since I've messed with these options but in some programming areas of Forscan you have to make that change to see more stuff.

I bought a replacement camera from amazon for less than $40. I installed it and it works beautifully. After I installed it the button to lower the gate no longer worked. I then removed the panel and checked the switch with an ohm meter. The switch worked fine. I then jumpered the connector and the lower gate circuit worked fine. I checked the contacts in the female part of the connector and found that they were too large. I took a pick and forced them to be smaller and now the lower switch works perfectly.

I am new to the site and wish to find out how to disable the double honk on my 2013 Cmax SEL. I got forscan and the license and the odb2 connection but when I went in the the body module configuration the only thing I saw was TMPS choices. Does someone have the information so I can use as built configuration? Thank you El Loco Lobo

Greetings, 2017 cmax. I recently got the service advance trac notification as well as the abs light on. So I changed out the speed sensors at each wheel but that didnt help. I then topped off the brake fluid as it said that was one of the causes, that didnt do anything and now I have a check brake system light on. Anyone have any ideas? Thankyou in advance....

My wife's 2016 C-Max (manufactured in 2015) has 30k miles... we bought it used in 2018 with 2,700 miles (leased for 2 years by someone else). Looks and runs great.

That’s awesome! Does the ICE burn any oil?

The pic is from April 5th and today I have 530,300 with no pic.

Not that problem specifically but I've had other audio problems I resolved by pulling fuse #79 for the radio and leaving it out for an hour or so (note: I have a 2013 SEL).

Just on my way home I got the dreaded check engine light. Checked and P2096 post catylast fuel trim too lean bank 1. I have 240,000 km on vehicle with no drivability issues and I am averaging 5 litres to 100 kms. Anyone else had a similar issue?

Super helpful, quick video:

Modern cars the 'door ajar' switch is integral to the door latch/lock mechanism.

There are wire taps designed to work on the plugin fuses. Figure out the correct fuse for the lights and tap in there. Did they find any codes from the check engine light?

I have a 2017 C-Max Hybrid with 85,000 miles on it. It works pretty well, but it occasionally has a "check Engine light" but it goes away by the time I get to the dealer, but that's not what todays question is about. I realized the other day that the interior lights turn themselves on when you open the door. Back in the old days there was a switch built into the door frame that would turn on the interior lights when the door opens, but I can't find any in the car. How does the car know to do this? I'd like to tap this circuit as an input to something else, and would prefer not having to pull one or the other ceiling lights down and route my new wiring through the ceiling. Thanks for the help. Larry Palmetto, Florida

Anyone know how I can fix this? Radio makes a Crackling sound then quits working. Next day works after parked overnight. I would like to try to fix this myself. Anyone else have this problem and was able to fix. If so how did you fix?

Take it to a battery place they will load test it for free.

After having original battery replaced 20mo. ago it was 6yrs. old. New replacement interstate battery. Was completely dead this morning. How can I load test?

Thanks, disconnecting the 12v battery seems to have fixed the problem. I was surprised that the radio presets & info center trackings [left side of dash pod] both were retained. After reconnecting both began at the starting point screen but only had to push a few buttons on the steering wheel controls or the radio touchscreen to get back to normal. I guess the problem may have been started during a Sirius update that didn't quite take for some reason, [driving thru a dead signal spot for example].

No trouble, Ford dealer had best price. It was the last one they had in stock though with $18 core charge. Autozone and O'reilly both had them too as an equivalent but looked like the same battery with different stickers.

Excellent news. Thank you. Did you have any difficulty finding the replacement? My sense is the that particular battery group is hard to find. Cheers.

We changed 12V battery in my daughter's 2013 Hybrid this week. Replacement was $199 at Ford dealer. This was the cheapest price I found and cost less than non-ford solutions. Old battery lasted 7 years. Had a problem removing the plastic clamp on the bottom of the battery. The bolt got loose but failed to fully remove. Bolt was a little rusty and it was spinning the threaded nut under the plastic clamp. Was able to reach under the car and grab onto the bottom of the threaded nut with pliers to keep it from spinning for full removal. Previous battery was replaced in 2018 by ford dealer that offered a free install but unfortunately they over-tightened the nut on the Positive + clamp and that cracked the clamp body and it came apart when I removed it. Ford doesn't sell just the broken clamp part, they sell an assembly of the parts connected to it for $320. However I was able to get a universal clamp at autozone for $10 that worked just fine. After install charged the new battery fully and then ran the manual procedure to reset the battery age to 0. That process worked and was able to the run the radio 10 min after turning the car off.

Guess I would try disconnecting 12V battery for a minute. Master Reset!