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I have a 2015 C Max that I was getting misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 I changed the plugs and the coils and now I’m getting the following issues (pictured below) with rough idle. I changed the MAF sensor as well and no difference. Any idea as to what the hell is going would be greatly appreciated.

I have had the exact same issue. 12V battery is fine, but you open the door, nothing lights up, seems completely dead. I raise the hood, attach my battery pack jump starter and I hear a click, now it lights and starts right up!?????

What year/model is your c-max?

I thought CARB compliant hybrids/PHEVs had a 10 year/100,000 mile transmission warranty. From memory the 15 year/150,000 mile warranty is for emissions equipment.

Wild shot in the dark. Anyone find the size on the push clips?

There are too many people who own Fords that go 5+ years on the original battery and then 12-24m on the replacement. I’m convinced this is usually caused by not resetting the Battery Management System when the battery is replaced. I would recommend doing this with FORScan yearly so you have confirmation that it was done. But it can be done without FORScan however on the CMax there is no visual or audible confirmation. I’m convinced that not only is your battery management system configured to charge AGM not SLA like your new battery may be but I also believe that the primary issue with the BMS is that it monitors the amount of power that is used on the system. Over time it is my understanding that Ford slowly reduces the amount of energy that it puts back into the battery. Who asked them to do that? Who told them it was wise to do that while also not paying more attention to the SoC based off of resting voltage? I have no clue. But I can tell you this… your battery was likely destroyed slowly over time as it slowly put less and less charge back in than was used and the case is even worse if your battery wasn’t completely charged before installing it. Over time your resting battery voltage goes down below 12.5V which will start causing damage slowly to an SLA, an AGM might be able to handle the SoC associated with 12.5V but soon even an AGM is going to start taking damage. At 12.4V resting an SLA is really starting to feel the pain at 12.11V long term (like months) it’s definitely cooked. Anything below 11.8V and even very short term this is extremely bad for the battery. While an AGM could potentially recover from that Voltage. So if your new battery isn’t AGM and the BMS wasn’t reset you have 3 things going against it.: -1) It can not take as deep of a depth of discharge as AGM it isn’t a deep cycle. It’s generally accepted that anything further than 50% depth of discharge will greatly reduce the lifespan of a standard SLA. -2) without reprogramming the vehicle to treat the battery like an SLA the car will treat it as an AGM. Also capacity it programmed as well and SLA may have a higher capacity and that might actually make things worse of how Ford charges the battery (larger capacity have longer service lives on dumb cars). -3) it’s my understanding that without constantly resetting the BMS every few years that Ford will slowly start reducing the SoC voltage because it doesn’t not pay enough deference to the resting voltage of the battery and might not even consider it greatly. If it’s only paying attention to adding back a certain amount of watt hours or amp hours after using them and it slowly reduces those then over time the resting voltage will keep dropping. -4) bonus reason… a 12V SLA has slightly different voltages for its SoCs while 100% on an AGM is higher than 100% on an SLA just about everything else is lower on an AGM. So an AGM can safely sit at 12V all day with little to no advanced aging. So the Ford BMS would find it perfectly acceptable to let the battery go to 12V. On an SLA 12V is definitely bad for the battery. On an AGM 11.7V is getting a bit low but it’s still doable but will start slowly ruining the battery. On an SLA 11.7V is straight murder and at 11.6V an SLA could potentially take freeze damage at -7 to -10C even at a higher voltage of 11.7 it might take damage at -15C to -20C vs nearly impossible temperatures for a fully charged battery. The damage voltage for AGM… much lower. To test resting voltage it’s best to disconnect the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes or more. But alternatively you can connect a multimeter to the cars jump post under the hood and a ground then set the meter where it’s easy to turn on and read without touching the car. Let the car sit for several hours then go back and without opening any doors or unlocking the car turn on the meter and check the voltage. If you unlock the car the voltage will likely go up if the DC-DC activates. I don’t know what the terms of activation are but on my i3 REx it was literally anything that wakes the car. Also if you have an Energi don’t plug it in.

I signed up back in 2020 but I don’t know if I ever did an introduction. Completely forgot I even registered. I have a 2017 Energi Base model with the 7” radio and heated seats maybe some other options don’t know for sure it’s a fleet car. Wife totalled the car 2 years ago. I rebuilt it and then it sat for a year because I have to jump through some hoops for the title which I’m doing now. I want to add ACC or do a Co-Pilot through pedal only. I also want to installed a Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 iDatalink Maestro DSP/DAC utilizing the iDatalink Ford T-Harness and then install the Kicker Key 180.4 or maybe (2) 180.4 and a small subwoofer I can remove. Problem is iDatalink doesn’t directly support this vehicle but it supports similar vehicles and it looks like there are even commands to disable noise canceling if I add a subwoofer but id sure like to learn how the Sony system uses a subwoofer with the noise canceling system. Anyways that me.

I contacted the local ford dealer and they said that they could not disable the double honk as it is a safety feature. So they sent me to Ford Corp customer service who also said that not only could they not disable the double honk because of safety but could only access information for cars 3 years old or newer. 2013 is far away from the information they have. Now I am going to bypass the BCM so that only the horn button will activate the horn. Thus ridding myself of the annoying double honk.

Anyone been able to program their TCU with Forscan.? Please give help. Upgraded to 4G. Thanks!

Hello all, I've been trawling through the threads and comments on here and I can't find the answer to my specific question about my poor old C-Max... I got it used from my dad for fairly cheap (still paying the loan on it off, though...about $3400 left on it) and it has around 127,000 miles on it now. A few months ago, I noticed it leaking fluid...I assumed at first it was an oil leak, took it in and they said it was a transmission leak and thought it was "just a seal", so they replaced it and changed the transmission fluid at the same time. Now it's still leaking, took it back to the same mechanic and they said actually there is a steel part that has a groove worn into it and that is causing the seal to fail and continue to leak...they quoted me $527 to repair, again. Took it to another mechanic to ask for a second opinion and he said the reason it is leaking is because the shaft going into the transmission there has movement in it, causing the seal to fail. The second mechanic doesn't want to touch it because he thinks it'll be a bigger/more messy job than he wants to deal with... All of this is in addition to a whining noise that is apparent while the ICE is running but NOT while just the EV is running, in park and while moving (although it gets harder to tell as you get going faster). So, now that I've found out that this particular make/model/year has a tendency for the transmission to fail, I'm wondering if that's not what the problem is and I'll need an entirely new transmission instead of just fixing a "simple" leak... I guess the next step is taking it to the dealership my dad got it from and seeing what they say (I can only imagine they'll quote me some astronomical sum, knowing these people... not to mention I *HATE* the idea of giving them any work after dealing with them in the past...). Now my main question is, since I'm in a CARB state (NY), and it says in the warranty guidebook from Ford on this car, that this repair should in theory be covered up to 15 years/150,000 miles - has anyone successfully gotten them to pay for a transmission repair using this AT PZEV clause? I called Ford and talked to someone who didn't seem to know much because she said my car had no type of warranty, emissions related or otherwise...but it seems pretty clearly stated in this guidebook that I'm looking at that Transmission assembly repairs are covered under this CARB/AT PZTV emissions warranty, in my state anyway. I've attached screenshots of the relevant info from the warranty guidebook I found at this link: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/14hybwa1e.pdf Thanks in advance for any info/insight anyone can give, really hoping for some good news...

Thank you , it worked perfectly for my 2013 Cmax Hybrid

I was thinking that instead of using forscan to disable the double honk (I don't have the ability to do so now) I checked the wiring diagram hoping that the BCM wiring could be cut out. But NO the steering wheel contact goes through the clock spring then into the BCM which then goes through the horn relay. So that isn't going to work. Page 44-1 of the wiring diagram book. Darn. So far the only ways for me to eliminate the double honk is to either unplug the horns or pull fuse 20 15 amp from the BJB under the hood. Of course if I do so then I have NO horns at all. After looking at the wiring diagram book, I think I could bypass the BCM .

Unfortunately the BCM AsBuilt options are not well documented if at all for the C-Max, probably because the Central Configuration is the primary and preferred way to update these settings. I'll check on my own later today after work and see if I can provide more accurate information. I also have a 2013 Energi SEL The modules are the same with the hybrid models.

I tried that but still cannot get views of anything more that tpms options. I also tried to look at the bcm on my 2013 fiesta and could only see the truck remote unlock. But if I choose the as built configuration I see plenty but, I don't know the address and values to disable the double honk. Does anyone out there know which address and values I need to change to disable the double honk on my 2013 Cmax sel?

On my other Ford, a 2013 Fiesta, my radio would crackle and quit. I sent it to Cboard repair. They did a very good job by replacing it. But it took a couple of months. Total price was about $250.

I believe you're going to want to look into the Central Configuration specific option. That's where a lot of BCM related functions are stored. You should be seeing a LOT more there than just TPMS options. If you still only see those, check if there's a dropdown on that screen for different modes like 'engineering mode' or similar. It's been a while since I've messed with these options but in some programming areas of Forscan you have to make that change to see more stuff.

I bought a replacement camera from amazon for less than $40. I installed it and it works beautifully. After I installed it the button to lower the gate no longer worked. I then removed the panel and checked the switch with an ohm meter. The switch worked fine. I then jumpered the connector and the lower gate circuit worked fine. I checked the contacts in the female part of the connector and found that they were too large. I took a pick and forced them to be smaller and now the lower switch works perfectly.

I am new to the site and wish to find out how to disable the double honk on my 2013 Cmax SEL. I got forscan and the license and the odb2 connection but when I went in the the body module configuration the only thing I saw was TMPS choices. Does someone have the information so I can use as built configuration? Thank you El Loco Lobo

Greetings, 2017 cmax. I recently got the service advance trac notification as well as the abs light on. So I changed out the speed sensors at each wheel but that didnt help. I then topped off the brake fluid as it said that was one of the causes, that didnt do anything and now I have a check brake system light on. Anyone have any ideas? Thankyou in advance....

My wife's 2016 C-Max (manufactured in 2015) has 30k miles... we bought it used in 2018 with 2,700 miles (leased for 2 years by someone else). Looks and runs great.

That’s awesome! Does the ICE burn any oil?

The pic is from April 5th and today I have 530,300 with no pic.

Not that problem specifically but I've had other audio problems I resolved by pulling fuse #79 for the radio and leaving it out for an hour or so (note: I have a 2013 SEL).

Just on my way home I got the dreaded check engine light. Checked and P2096 post catylast fuel trim too lean bank 1. I have 240,000 km on vehicle with no drivability issues and I am averaging 5 litres to 100 kms. Anyone else had a similar issue?