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I bought some very nice Nappa leather seat covers for my 2013 CMax Se. The clips cannot be slipped under the seat because the current cover is sealed in back. Any suggestions?

A quick Google/Bing search will reveal that while the actual bearings are pressed into the wheel hub, the wheel hub, it self, is a bolt in replacement part. A new wheel hub will include new bearings & should be replaceable by most qualified mechanics.

For several years, my 2017 Energi has had an intermittent squeal from the right rear wheel. It's present about 10-20% of the time, and silent otherwise. The other day, it faded in during a long drive on a fast, straight highway. After several minutes where it was plainly audible inside the car, it faded away. No brake applications were made at this time. It's also happened at parking lot speeds, loud enough to alarm pedestrians. Twice I've asked Ford shops to "take a look" at this, and they've found no problems. I thought I would just have the bearing replaced at this next oil change, but I got a surprise - a quote of $800, including three hours of labor. It seems that the C-Max has pressed-in, not bolted-on wheel bearings. Special tools are involved, This is a quirk of the C-Max, I was told. "My F-150 has bolt-on bearings," said my service advisor. Simply diagnosing the bearing would be $230, he added. If this was my Mercedes or my past VWs, I'd shop among several well-qualified independent specialist shops that would undercut the dealer's price by 30-50%. Any kind of indy Ford shop would specialize in trucks or performance cars, not our rarities. The general all-brand garages might have never even seen a C-Max. So, your experience? Advice?

Absolutely! I keep mine in the storage cubby in the back seat on the passenger side just for this reason. The small pack I have even with the jumper leads and the 120V charging cord fit just fine in there.

For those who may be unaware, the rear hatch cannot be opened if the 12v battery is dead, so do NOT keep jumper cables in the rear cubby.

Just some clarifications: No alternator on these vehicles. They have a DC-DC converter that takes its place and converts power from the HVB/traction battery at it's nominal ~300V or so and converts it down to the 12+V for the 12V components in the vehicle and to charge the 12V battery. It's programmed to mimic an alternator as far as voltage levels and charge/discharge behavior. One thing to note, and was kinda covered way back in the day here in this thread: Upon 'waking' the car like unlocking, opening a door, etc. the DC-DC converter will go into a kind of baseline operating mode that it puts out a low 12-13V level of charge. Once the vehicle is fully started, it jumps to the normal 14+V and goes into full operation. The DC-DC converter also runs full time when the car is fully started and the ICE or road speed has zero impact on that. It continues to run while the ICE is off as well. This is for the hybrid of Energi model. No difference. For a 2013 if you're still having issues I'd certainly check with a dealer to make sure any outstanding software updates and TSBs are sorted regarding power draw or charging issues. There were quite a number for the early model years that were put out way back in the day. Getting the ACM updated as well is also a good idea as that's another common culprit concerning the radio not being operational or getting stuck on at key off which can also cause a battery drain. That's also been fixed with a simple software update the dealer can do. That all said, a jump starter is definitely not a bad idea to have around just as insurance. The small lithium based packs are fantastic for their size as well as being able to use most of them as a USB battery bank. And our cars don't need much out of them. It can also come in handy for jumping other vehicles as needed as it's not recommended to do so directly from our vehicles (The DC-DC converter is not a cheap replacement if it fails which the bursty jump starting load can potentially cause. Other manufacturers including Toyota already call this out for their hybrid vehicles and recommend against it). As an anecdote, I do have a 2013 Energi SEL myself and it had the factory 12V battery when it finally died and got replaced Dec 2021. It's been perfect so far. In my educated opinion on it, I think a lot of it comes down to software updates not getting done especially this late in the vehicle's lifetime. Unfortunately the important ones require specifically going to your dealer, having them do the diagnostic work, and hope their techs know what they're doing and trace it back to TSBs that call for the updates. It's all a chain of hoping every step goes the way you want it to go and sometimes it doesn't even get started because people are either wary of going to dealers or mechanics in general or are stuck in old, analog mindsets and don't realize these things are chock full of various computer modules which can and do get fixes and improvements over time. The ACM issue is a VERY good example of this. Most live with it and do the classic fuse pull which is just a bandaid but Ford has had a permanent fix out there in software for a while.

My daughter's c-max had a dead battery because she accidentally turned on the lights with her knee when she got out of the car. She had a portable jump pak and was able to start the car and drive it a couple days and then had to jump it again. Also the radio stopped working. I put my charger on the 12v battery and fully charged it. No more issues and the radio is woking again. Her short trips just weren't charging the battery enough. On a side note when I got out of my Mach-E a couple days ago my knee kit the light switch and turned the lights on. The car started dinging and alerted me to the lights being on. So I can see how that can happen.

Thank you for sharing! Did you report this to NTSB? What is the update?

In addition to the voltmeter you need to carry a jump starter for you CMax. Several times I've had to jump start my 2013 because the 12V battery died while the car was sitting in the garage and I had driven the car the previous day. The dealership told me in town only driving will not sufficiently keep the battery charged and I need to get it out on the highway now and then. That's a big unknown because how do you know if the alternator is charging the battery and at what speed. Yes, they need an altimeter and a voltmeter on the dashboard to let you know if your 12V battery is charging, is being charged or is charged!!!

This *is* hybrid mode. What happens when you plug it in? Does it charge?

always works in normal mode , does not allow to switch on ev battery charging. The hybrid mode does not work either, it only runs on gas. c max 2015 plug in, what should I do?

For me it would't be worth it even if you doubled the range to 20 miles. I would get an escape PHEV (39mile range) or an EV if you don't take frequent long trips. I did buy a Mach-E standard range EV last year after I sold my c-max.

My 2014 Energi runs great but the battery has about half its life left. Typically 8-10 miles at best. I use forscan and all the cells are balanced and no errors so I don't think there are any issues. I spoke with a dealership and a "rebuilt" battery is the only option from them and they want $15k for one. Yikes. As I understand it, these batteries have 84 Panasonic 3.7 Volt NMC cells with somewhere between 24-26 AH each. The newer 2019/2020 Fusion cells I understand are 30AH. I'm tempted to try to source 84 new cells but hoping that I can get 40-50 AH each with the same dimensions as the stock cells. My question is, if I successfully replace all 84 cells with new ones that are say 40 AH, will the BMS be ok with that? And I presume these cells have to be 3.7 NMC with the same demensions. There's no way as far as I know to replace the current cells with LiFePO cells as they run a different voltage and such. The goal is to swap 84 3.7 volt cells for 84 3.7 volt cells with hopefully higher AH so it can be sort of plug and play. Guidance, thoughts, considerations? Anyone know if a reputable supplier? I'm looking and the only options seem to be Aliexpress or Alibaba and thus I fear it may be impossible to find good safe accurate cells.

I have the exact same problem with my 2014 cmax. I had my battery replaced because I was told it was bad. I had notice the tail light in passing before I took it in to be checked. I assumed it was just slow in going off. After the battery replacement it's still doing it. But now I am also having trouble with my lighter charger not working and not being able to connect with the bluetooth. Just a bunch of weird stuff. I don't know where to start troubleshooting. I am now also getting a warning light for a powertrain or high-voltage charge system fault after I jump it. But then it goes away.

I Have a new Blue Ox Base plate BX2639 I need to sell. 250.00. It comes with all the hardware and instructions needed to install it to the your 2013-18 Ford C-Max Includes Hybrid and Energi. I can ship it (contact me for a quote) or if you are in no big hurry, I may be able to meet up somewhere as I drive across the country a couple times a year. I am in Chicago area.

Remember, the guess-o-meter is based on your recent driving. If you have a lead foot, it might think that you only have eight miles of juice. Follow cr08's instructions, that will get to what you really have available.

I'd first start by getting the actual capacity of the battery currently. The estimated range is practically useless as a health indicator as a lot of factors can impact the numbers. Here's the test you need to do: 1) Fully charge the car 2) Drive it in EV mode ONLY (avoid things that can cause the ICE to start, ie: No highway driving, no cabin heat, as few active accessories as possible) 3) Drive until the plug-in charge is depleted. 4) Once the plug-in charge is used and it falls back to hybrid operation, safely stop somewhere and shut off the car. The trip summary on the left screen will list the kwh used. This is the number you need. 5.5kwh is the brand new plug-in capacity from the factory. Anything above 4.0 is still in good territory.

It's normal for there to be more noise when the engine turns on vs running on the battery only. You can post a recording here of the noise if you think it's a problem.

8 miles seems a little low for 34k miles on the car. Maybe there is a problem with the battery pack. I would get it diagnosed before getting it replaced. Or just drive it as is, a new battery would not add a lot of value.

Hello, thanks for the approval. I got my first hybrid a couple of months ago, a 2014 C-Max SEL, after I had to give up my beloved Fiesta because Mrs. H won't drive a stick and Mom H. had trouble getting in and out of it. Love the C-Max, it's a funky little contraption and great for the commute. Now officially christened the "Possum Hybrid" in memory of Red Green's Possum Van. Wonder how he would have built a hybrid?

I have a ridiculously low mileage 2013 CMax Energi (34,000 miles). Really. I am the original owner, purchased the car new in December 2013. Love it. I live in an excellent climate for this car, never freezes here, temps over 75° for just a few days a year. The battery is now just charging to 8 miles. Is it time to replace the batteries? I am 77 years old, would like this to keep this as my toes-up car and not buy a new one.

nogoodbum - i believe the air intake for the HVB comes from the passenger side rear wheel well. so, if very hot outside, that could be a problem for cooling. we have a 2016 energi. i was curious about the recharge on hills after reading some conflicting and confusing information on the internet. i took the car skiing, and on the way back down the hill it managed to charge the HVB to nearly a 1/4 charge. i did not need to pull over or turn anything on or off, i just went down hill gently using the brake. (i didn't know about the hill mode then). we plan on driving half way across canada this summer. some of those mountains are really long climbs/descents. i'm interested to see how full the HVB can get. in any respect, i was pleasantly surprised to see that the HVB does indeed charge up on hills. cr08 - i'm curious to know how the battery gets stressed by being charged/discharged on the highway - do you mean heat, or something else? i was hoping to drive on the highway in EV auto mode, trying to keep it in that sweet spot of a bit of gas, a bit of electric power at the same time. i'd at least like to get some cruising along for free after we come down a large mountian.

before i dont have problem when press on gas paddle , run so smooth and accelerate so fast no hear any sound , (i believe it run on electric ) now when i press on ga paddle , make a lot of sound , ev mode switch to engine mode, gas MPG dropped to 45 to 40.1 car still running ok, but make alot of sound on engine mode, when it back to electric mode no sound, when back to engie mode hear loud noise., Did anyone have this kind of problem? really appreciate any info

From my research the remote start fob is also a different frequency. 433 MHZ for the non remote start model and 315 MHZ for the remote start key. I have used Forscan and enabled the remote start in the IC but have not updated the antenna with the remote start model. I was a senior master Ford tech for 26 years and in theory it should be able to be done with software but I haven't made it there yet.

Thanks for posting this, a great start for some of the stuff I'd like to do. Had a 2015 Hybrid for the last year and am upgrading to a 2017 Energi. Adaptive Cruise is the only thing I wish it had.