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The HVB is what runs the two electric motors that conspire to start the ICE and to get ICE torque to the wheels, remember? The 12v battery is just for the accessories and the power relay that lets juice out of the HVB. If the HVB is totally dead, your car is bricked. But there's a long way to go from "can't run on battery for long" and "not enough battery to start the ICE".

Update on this... Had some time to tinker with it today, and I'm wondering if the year/model that I grabbed the ACM with in the beginning may be the culprit. It may have come out of a pre-2013 vehicle (Focus 2011-12)... but I can't remember for sure. I was just looking for other cars that had a 4" style display. In checking in the databases on CYANlabs.net, I see that the values for a 2011-12 ACM are different that the values for a 2013-14 ACM. So even though I load the 'correct' ASBuilt values for my car, the values mean something different pre-2013. Like I said earlier, I'm grasping at straws here.... Anyone be able to shed likght on this? sopund plausible? Cheers, PK

Wheel bearing is quite possible. If you can load some audio of it, that'll help diagnostics. Greg

Sorry you didn't get any responses. Did you find out what the cause/culprit was/is? I'm dealing with a general increase in noise from the front end of my 2013 (111,000 miles) while driving above 40-50 mph. Basically it's "engine noise" but much louder than before. Doesn't seem to make a difference if the car is on electric or gas.

My hybrid has 180,000 km (112,000 miles) and over the last month, I have noticed a significant increase in noise from the engine compartment (typically while driving over 50 mph). I'm going to investigate (maybe wheel bearings?) but would be curious if owners of higher mileage C-maxes have noticed a change.

Depends on the failure mode. If the pack goes lower and lower as time goes on it should still work fine on gas with shorter and shorter distances on battery. Also some people have the energi model and for various reasons never bother to charge the battery. It will still run fine as gas only. Not as efficient as the hybrid but still good mpg's. What is wrong with your battery pack?

I was curious if anyone knew if the cmax would just run as ICE if the high voltage pack were to go bad (or if I pulled it to replace the individual cells) anyone know? Don

It might be helpful to post a picture of your display on the dash.

Hey guys, at wits end with this.... it's been awhile since I've had a chance to work on this. Last week I was able to grab another APIM from a similar 1.1 Sync system. Tore out the passenger seat and side panel in between the seats to get at the APIM. Replaced it. Hooked up Forscan and reprogrammed it to the AsBuilt values, was sure to change the ACM values (as I've stated in above posts) but still the same issue. So to recap this is my journey so far: Started out with no radio working at all. It wasn't the fuse. I replaced the ACM from a Focus in a wrecker. The radio did work, but was very quiet. I found that is I changed a value in the first line 727-01-01 xx5x xxxx xxxx (ASBuilt value) to xx0x xxxx xxxx I could at least hear the radio while driving, but I need to turn the volume up ALL the way to 30. This led me to think it may have been the DACMC (Digital Audio Control Module C). Replaced that one (behind the glove compartment, passenger side) set the values as per AsBuilt for my car.... still the same issue. Now tried another APIM and same issue. In FORscan I did Module tests on all the Modules, and they came out fine (no errors). I'm stumped.... can't see why a *!!*%?# Stereo should be so complicated!!!!!!!!! Does anybody know this system in and out? I've checked fuses all around the car that I think may be part of the issue but they are all OK... Is it some obscure fuse to a component I might not a thought connected? Any help would be appreciated.... Cheers, PK

As I understand it [& I may very well be wrong], the date function is tied into the navigation programming. Check your SD card to update the date.

Failed vehicle inspection due to "leaking" rear shocks. Shop wanted $700 to replace both. Nope. DIY and casual 4 hours later, replaced both shocks (using TRQs), rotated tires, and cleaned the HVB filter/screen behind passenger-side rear wheel tub while "in there"; screen was clogged and read that can reduce HVB charge. Shocks were slow to remove and reinstall/retorque the bottom bolts (given limited/tight access) and went ahead and replaced both upper shock brackets as well although both looked fine. Not bad overall for $200. Greg

I have this issue as well in my 2017 Energi. It looks like the cost is about $600 for the part only. Is there a cheaper solution, or do I have to spend about a thousand bucks just to stop the leak on my garage floor? Thanks!

2016 cmax date is 2004 cant change. clock has only time options how change date?

Hello have cmax 2016 with sync3 date on my car is 2004 year how can I change date? clock settings change time only, not date.

I bought some very nice Nappa leather seat covers for my 2013 CMax Se. The clips cannot be slipped under the seat because the current cover is sealed in back. Any suggestions?

Have same problem, check out ford service bulletin. TSB 17-0015 electrical cable chaffing. this is the best answer in can find after searching the net. lots of people having this problem

A quick Google/Bing search will reveal that while the actual bearings are pressed into the wheel hub, the wheel hub, it self, is a bolt in replacement part. A new wheel hub will include new bearings & should be replaceable by most qualified mechanics.

For several years, my 2017 Energi has had an intermittent squeal from the right rear wheel. It's present about 10-20% of the time, and silent otherwise. The other day, it faded in during a long drive on a fast, straight highway. After several minutes where it was plainly audible inside the car, it faded away. No brake applications were made at this time. It's also happened at parking lot speeds, loud enough to alarm pedestrians. Twice I've asked Ford shops to "take a look" at this, and they've found no problems. I thought I would just have the bearing replaced at this next oil change, but I got a surprise - a quote of $800, including three hours of labor. It seems that the C-Max has pressed-in, not bolted-on wheel bearings. Special tools are involved, This is a quirk of the C-Max, I was told. "My F-150 has bolt-on bearings," said my service advisor. Simply diagnosing the bearing would be $230, he added. If this was my Mercedes or my past VWs, I'd shop among several well-qualified independent specialist shops that would undercut the dealer's price by 30-50%. Any kind of indy Ford shop would specialize in trucks or performance cars, not our rarities. The general all-brand garages might have never even seen a C-Max. So, your experience? Advice?

Absolutely! I keep mine in the storage cubby in the back seat on the passenger side just for this reason. The small pack I have even with the jumper leads and the 120V charging cord fit just fine in there.

For those who may be unaware, the rear hatch cannot be opened if the 12v battery is dead, so do NOT keep jumper cables in the rear cubby.

Just some clarifications: No alternator on these vehicles. They have a DC-DC converter that takes its place and converts power from the HVB/traction battery at it's nominal ~300V or so and converts it down to the 12+V for the 12V components in the vehicle and to charge the 12V battery. It's programmed to mimic an alternator as far as voltage levels and charge/discharge behavior. One thing to note, and was kinda covered way back in the day here in this thread: Upon 'waking' the car like unlocking, opening a door, etc. the DC-DC converter will go into a kind of baseline operating mode that it puts out a low 12-13V level of charge. Once the vehicle is fully started, it jumps to the normal 14+V and goes into full operation. The DC-DC converter also runs full time when the car is fully started and the ICE or road speed has zero impact on that. It continues to run while the ICE is off as well. This is for the hybrid of Energi model. No difference. For a 2013 if you're still having issues I'd certainly check with a dealer to make sure any outstanding software updates and TSBs are sorted regarding power draw or charging issues. There were quite a number for the early model years that were put out way back in the day. Getting the ACM updated as well is also a good idea as that's another common culprit concerning the radio not being operational or getting stuck on at key off which can also cause a battery drain. That's also been fixed with a simple software update the dealer can do. That all said, a jump starter is definitely not a bad idea to have around just as insurance. The small lithium based packs are fantastic for their size as well as being able to use most of them as a USB battery bank. And our cars don't need much out of them. It can also come in handy for jumping other vehicles as needed as it's not recommended to do so directly from our vehicles (The DC-DC converter is not a cheap replacement if it fails which the bursty jump starting load can potentially cause. Other manufacturers including Toyota already call this out for their hybrid vehicles and recommend against it). As an anecdote, I do have a 2013 Energi SEL myself and it had the factory 12V battery when it finally died and got replaced Dec 2021. It's been perfect so far. In my educated opinion on it, I think a lot of it comes down to software updates not getting done especially this late in the vehicle's lifetime. Unfortunately the important ones require specifically going to your dealer, having them do the diagnostic work, and hope their techs know what they're doing and trace it back to TSBs that call for the updates. It's all a chain of hoping every step goes the way you want it to go and sometimes it doesn't even get started because people are either wary of going to dealers or mechanics in general or are stuck in old, analog mindsets and don't realize these things are chock full of various computer modules which can and do get fixes and improvements over time. The ACM issue is a VERY good example of this. Most live with it and do the classic fuse pull which is just a bandaid but Ford has had a permanent fix out there in software for a while.

My daughter's c-max had a dead battery because she accidentally turned on the lights with her knee when she got out of the car. She had a portable jump pak and was able to start the car and drive it a couple days and then had to jump it again. Also the radio stopped working. I put my charger on the 12v battery and fully charged it. No more issues and the radio is woking again. Her short trips just weren't charging the battery enough. On a side note when I got out of my Mach-E a couple days ago my knee kit the light switch and turned the lights on. The car started dinging and alerted me to the lights being on. So I can see how that can happen.

Thank you for sharing! Did you report this to NTSB? What is the update?

In addition to the voltmeter you need to carry a jump starter for you CMax. Several times I've had to jump start my 2013 because the 12V battery died while the car was sitting in the garage and I had driven the car the previous day. The dealership told me in town only driving will not sufficiently keep the battery charged and I need to get it out on the highway now and then. That's a big unknown because how do you know if the alternator is charging the battery and at what speed. Yes, they need an altimeter and a voltmeter on the dashboard to let you know if your 12V battery is charging, is being charged or is charged!!!

This *is* hybrid mode. What happens when you plug it in? Does it charge?