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Sounds like a worthwhile endeavor. Here are snips of my current part number (from a 2017 Escape) and calibration version along with the firmware available for upgrade. I had thought about doing the upgrade when the weather starts to warmup since it supposedly calls for 5 hours to perform. Gotta get the battery charger out for that one.

So I am lurking on the CyanLabs Discord and a user posted a pic of the official upgrade module and surprisingly it is another H series TCU like the one I have and the one @bakedpatato have on hand from '17 Escapes. The official part # posted is HJ5T-14G087-UM (mine is HJ5T-14G087-UF). This got another thought in my head and that is if there may be a differing calibration/strategy level on these? Just a wild guess as to a possible other avenue why the VC/Go Times features don't work. If those who have DIY'd it can confirm what ForScan reports on these fronts? @oldbeyondmeasure or anyone else here who has done the official upgrade can pull that info from ForScan as well, that'd be greatly appreciated. I'd be happy to help with the process if needed. For these tasks, a dirt cheap Bluetooth or USB ELM adapter will work. And for just pulling part numbers and strategies, I believe even the mobile app for ForScan will suffice. I'll definitely be reviewing that info myself once I get around to doing the install this weekend and may see if the folks over on the CyanLabs boards have any info on new strategy/calibration levels for these. Probably a long shot and dead end on the issue, but one that should at least be relatively easy to rule out. EDIT: Sounds like we should potentially have a calibration/strategy level in line for that official -UM module. Probably wouldn't be bad to still get tallies of what other part numbers show up as these appear to be rebuilt/refurbed units potentially. Maybe someone will end up with a matching UF down the line? Not sure, just more guesses.

In addition, EV Later essentially puts things into Hybrid mode at whatever the battery charge level is when you enter that mode (it's announced on the left screen); the software tries to keep the battery charged within a few percent of that value. Those of us who like fiddling with things watch the percentage on the big screen and triple-tap the EV mode button whenver the charge exceeds that value; stopping from highway speeds generally pushes a few percent into the battery.

One of the left-hand view options shows you the power draw threshholds that the software uses to decide when to start the ICE. In EV, it tries really hard to avoid using the ICE. In Auto, it'll start the ICE if you gun it, run the defroster, or use too much regen braking when the battery's already fully charged (like starting in L and stopping at the end of my driveway). With gentle driving, it will still drain the battery all the way down before starting the ICE; I wish there was a speed threshhold at about 45mph.