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achecht

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Everything posted by achecht

  1. Thanks for asking; I had forgotten to mention those seat covers. I got mine from PrecisionFit.com. They were not cheap (about $400 for both front and back), but with the black interior, the silver Endura material will make it cooler in the Summer sun. The term Precision Fit is no joke. The covers are very customized to the vehicle and attach very nicely. I'm working with the company because the cutouts for the rear seat release straps were off by a few inches. Either someone measured wrong when they checked out a C-Max, or Ford puts the release straps in different places for cloth vs. leather.
  2. I saw this thread a month or so ago after sharing the "no cargo net" frustration. I liked the instructions by RedLdr1, but I decided to take that inspiration and adapt it more to my needs. I don't like the Ford cargo net mentioned in this thread in that it leans far too forward at the top. RedLdr1's setup is better, but still too far forward for my use. Rec's modified install (also here) is closer to what I did, but I think that others may benefit from my mod. I have full pictures on Flickr (link below), but I'll summarize first. First is the cargo net itself. My other car is a Mazda5, and I had that cargo net handy. It is by far the best I saw for this purpose. The biggest differences are that a) the Mazda net is a little shallower (top to bottom), and b) the net has it's own plastic hooks installed at all bungie cord ends. This makes it a snap to install with no possibility of losing parts. You can search for Mazda5 cargo net and find models for the 2006-2010 years (mine's a 2008 Mazda, but the nets for those years are all the same). Here's a link to one (if the link still works): http://mazdagear.com/cargonet-mazda5.aspx. The price was just under $40 for the cargo net, but remember you won't need to purchase any carabiner-style clips. Next are the hooks to attach to the Ford. I wanted something simple that would also get out of the way when not being used (and not stick out and scrap against items in the cargo area). I also wanted something made of plastic so that in the event that anything did break, it would be the hooks and not the moulding of my C-max. I found the perfect ones on eBay for $10 (here's the link to the auction, but I'm sure it will be archived at some point: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130899609062). They were essentially hooks for mounting to the chassis of a motorcycle for adding panniers, etc. The eBay seller was http://myworld.ebay.com/flyncycle. I liked these because they were essentially little loops that fold down when not in use (see the Flickr pics). The only thing I changed was a bit of the hardware. I added some big stainless steel fender washers and replaced the regular nuts with ones that had nylon inserts to keep them from coming loose. Two of each were available at my neighborhood hardware store for about $2.00 total. The next change I made was the location. I picked a spot before I saw Rec's post, but my spot was pretty close to that one. I just went a little farther forward but still on the vertical piece of moulding. I was able to access this by popping off the covers on the sides (where the seat belt retractors are stored). Lastly, I use velcro straps to keep the bottom of the net against the C-max floor. That keeps things from rolling out the back when you open the hatch, and they're easily removed if you ever remove the net. I've had the setup for few weeks now, and it has really proven to be good. No problems. Directions: Do this for one side first, and then see how it goes in case you need to make any minor adjustments for the second side.Pop off the side covers, then feel around on the vertical moulding. You'll feel a small (1/3" wide) ledge on the inside near the top (more detail in my pics). You want to drill the hole so that the top of the fender washer will hit against or just below this ledge. Also, you'll feel a thin padding against the moulding itself. Just move this out of the way when you drill the hole and then install all the hardware between the pad and the plastic so that the pad doesn't get caught.Drill your holes. I made sure to drill so that the side of the washer furthest from the bumper was flush with the raised edge of the moulding (see flickr pics). I believe I used a 3/16" drill bit, but it all depends on your hardware, so measure what you have.Install the latch hooks with the additional fender washer and nylon lock nuts. I put the latches with the bolt at the bottom so that the hooks would fall down flat (i.e. closed) when the net is not attached.Install the cargo net on this first side and then proceed to mark and drill the holes for the other side. And finally here is a photo. A more complete, step-by-step photostream for this project with details in the image descriptions is on Flickr at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/96607927@N02/sets/72157633773717477/ Enjoy!
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