stratosurfer

Yes, I follow Amsoil's recommendations for their oil and filter, annual drains and filter change. Still original plugs now at 214K miles. This car has had a lot of highway miles.

All, my C-Max Hybrid now has about 214K miles. I did my first engine oil analysis and it is attached. I am using only Amsoil Signature 5w30 for years. Thoughts on this analysis on the car with this many miles on it? Thanks Mark 2013 CMax Hybrid 211K Miles.pdf

The liftgate on my 2013 C max hybrid SEL is acting very strange. It will open all the way and then come halfway back down and then after it settles halfway back down it’s very difficult to move. It doesn’t want to release the electric struts. I saw on YouTube where a short video showed that there is a position switch near the light that lights the rear license plate. Has anyone had any trouble with that? Or can anyone point me in the direction of how to get this liftgate working? To replace those two struts is $1000. I will rather just put regular gas strut 10 and not have the automatic feature then they have to pay that much.

Wow! How much was the credit you received?

That will be my last resort as I don’t believe these are that well made. Mine have been ‘sticky’ in cold weather since day one.

The electric automatic liftgate struts on my 2013 SEL are shot and I can’t seem to source them anywhere other than Ford. I am quoted $500 each or essentially $1000 for the pair… I’m going to put these Ford part numbers down here and ask if anyone knows of an alternative source other than Ford? The passenger side part number from Ford is a M5Z58406A10F and the driver side is a M5Z58406A11D. i’m not sure what I’m gonna do but I’m not gonna pay $1000 to restore this automatic electric liftgate. To replace it with the gas struts is about $79 all in. Any help appreciated. Thanks. S

All, I’ve been reviewing the 2023 Toyota Sequoia, which all model sub variants only come as a hybrid. This is the same Hybrid system in the Toyota Tundra, which from my sleuthing is the same hybrid system in the Ford F150 Powerboost hybrid. 10 Speed HD transmission, tows 9K lbs, and a 44HP electric motor. 21MPG average on a 4wd 6,300lb vehicle. Up to 24 Highway. If you have towing needs, this could be the vehicle if you don’t want or need a pickup. SR5 and goodies is $75K out the door so… S

That tax credit is only available to the original purchaser IIRC. My 2013 C-Max hybrid (not Energi) has 211K miles on the clock and traction battery is great. The 12V battery I replaced about 4 years ago with an Oddyssey that fit in the space.

Agree. I put in an Oddyssey battery when the OEM battery failed years ago. These Oddyssey batteries last a long time. I’ve had zero problems since the battery disconnect reboot.

I use Blue Driver scanner and it isn’t as deep as FORScan, but pretty good. Anyhow, I wanted to report back that I’ve had zero problems since I rebooted all modules after disconnecting my negative terminal on the 12V battery.

It didn’t throw any codes, what can be done to track down an issue with no codes thrown?

I didn’t test for the system came right up. I forgot to post I did check the fuse at the 12V terminal with an IR tester and it appears good.

I’ve decided to put this discussion under general because it hits many topics. I got locked out of my C max Thursday of this week and the car would not recognize my fob my backup fob which I keep hidden on the vehicle disassembled, nor would it recognize the fobs with brand new batteries put in them. I use the blade key to get into the car and follow the procedure in the manual to put the fob next to the RF emergency receiver on the steering column followed the procedures in the manual hit the brake, hit the start button and she lit off. Once started I went ahead and drove about 20 miles home and received interesting error codes on the dash, such as approaching exceeding maximum speed… There were other quirky issues going on such as the electric liftgate would go up but not come back down. If I closed the door when I got out it would not recognize the fobs and I would have to put the fobs right next to the emergency receiver on the column to start and then could again drive the car, but it was apparent that a module was having multiple faults setting off multiple problems. After reading through a few of the forums here I made the decision to unbury the 12 V battery in the rear compartment and to disconnect the 12 V lead. After disconnecting the 12 V lead and leaving it disconnected for at least five or 10 minutes I reconnected it and went in and started the car and now everything works. This has been two days of driving now and I’ve had no fall back to any of the old problems, I have left that rear facia piece of plastic of the rear covering over the battery compartment off in case something else went wrong. I must mention I replaced the OEM 12v battery about three or four years ago With an odyssey AGM battery. My plan now is to install a 12 V disconnect switch via two 3 foot battery lead pigtails from the positive terminal and place the battery disconnect in the little ventilation access compartment on the right side of the trunk compartment for easy access. Should I have another situation like this I will be able to enter the car via the blade key follow the procedures get the hatch opened and disconnect the 12 V battery from a disconnect switch that’s very easily accessible by that air ventilation panel on the right. I won’t have to get somewhere and get the tools to remove that plastic piece for access to the 12v battery. Sorry for this long post but I felt it needed the details to be able to explain all that’s going on in my proposed solution. I discussed my problem with a factory Toyota mechanic friend with and he said it was standard operating procedure in problems like these with his training at Toyota to do exactly what I did and pull that positive lead off and allow these modules to reset themselves and essentially reboot the entire system. I have a question: if anyone knows what gauge those 12 V battery leads are? I found some four gauge battery leads and I don’t know if that is thick enough. I do know that the battery leads from the 12 V battery are only powering the electronics suite, they don’t look all that thick. If anyone knows the spec on the 12V leads would you please let me know. I will report back on how things go after this reboot of all the modules and how the remote battery disconnect mod works out. Thanks Mark

All, I know this thread is old, but I’m having a similar problem on my 2013 SEL. My FOB works only on the ‘Emergency’ receiver. I will start with that 150 amp fuse on the 12v battery. How was the problem here finally resolved?

Thanks for all the replies. I think my traction battery may be showing signs of losing a little of it's capacity.