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JDBlue

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Posts posted by JDBlue

  1. On 4/13/2022 at 5:03 PM, GeR2 said:

    Update on my situation:

     

    I just got back from the Ford Dealer.  Long story short, the problem persists.  They told me that they had a technician update the software and that it took.  The activation procedure went through.  The same features work, and the lock / unlock / start continue to be unresponsive.  At least it didn't get worse.  I'm going to inspect the TCU data and see if they updated anything.  Will post the results here soon...

     

    If you just need to change the values on a those lines as mentioned above, it is a super SUPER simple thing to do, and you can always just put the old values back without impacting anything. It was what it took to get mine working.

  2. On 4/2/2022 at 9:11 PM, bookemdano said:

     

    It would be great to get a spreadsheet of *working* asbuilt tweaks for the C-max. There are some very comprehensive ones out there for other Ford models but a lot of the tweaks won't work for our cars.

     

     

    Any chance you can get this started somewhere and folks can contribute to it? After following all the info here to upgrade to Sync 3, and replace my TCU, I am hooked on these tweaks ?

  3. On 4/9/2022 at 5:25 AM, JTEX said:

    What I just posted in the FFE forum may benefit the Cmax team regarding driving data:

     

    I tried Journeys a few weeks back and while it was interesting the value judgements it was making on my driving style was too much to handle so since then I have always had Journeys off, but I do get lots of fun facts after each drive under Driving Data/My Journeys/EV Data/My EV Driving . . .so I have been churning through the “what may be different?” for you folks.

     

    Each time I have reset SYNC for any reason once it comes back online I have a checklist of my prefs I set including: connect to my home wifi for SYNC updates, set Home and Work favorites, pair both cell phones, turn off CarPlay, turn off charge light, and then this is what you folks may want to check. . . .   under apps in SYNC I download the SYNC Fordpass app and once it becomes alive (sometimes it take a few minutes) in SYNC you are asked to give it permissions,  I give it all the permissions, then I give all permissions to “all apps” and the “app catalog”.  This is done all in SYNC.   Also on my iPhone I have given the iOS app Fordpass “always” location rights.  When driving my iPhone is also always connected to the car via USB and Bluetooth.

     

    I bring up all of the above because perhaps while I have Journeys off giving both the related SYNC Fordpass app all the rights and the iOS Fordpass app location services rights/permissions in some way allows the required data to get to the Fordpass back end database to then be reported in the smartphone Fordpass app inside “Driving Data.”   So you folks may want to mess with that if you don’t have it set the same way.

     

    For overall functionality of Fordpass now on my DIY FFE TCU swap I am “all good” for all functions.   Indeed I am now in better shape than with MFM and have the benefits of 4G speed. The key “must do’s” seem to be:

     

    1) “H” TCU

    2) “-UM” firmware, calibration, etc. for that H TCU using Forscan’s latest beta with a top quality USB OBE cable

    3) Configuring ALL the lines of your TCU to be absolutely identical to the known good dealer installed configuration (in my case for the FFE).

    4) being in a reasonably good AT&T cell reception area

    5) using the connected car app to enable the car

    6) doing at least one SYNC reset

    7) giving it a few days for the FordPass back end to update

     . . . .and having the lastest rev of the Fordpass app on your smart phone

     

    Perhaps to the above list the “permissions” on Fordpass in SYNC, etc. also matter, but we will need one or two other team members to validate.

     

    So just to follow up. I had installed an H modem from flvpmods and the official ford f150 antenna, but nothing worked.

     

    I updated my AsBuilt with the screenshot that @bookemdano posted, and the car finally started to lock/unlock!!

     

    I followed these steps, 1-5, and the part that was the KEY to this, was the part at the top about enabling fordpass on the Sync 3 itself. Once I did that, I ran a vechicle health check on the Sync console,and all the data started flowing immediately

     

    I am up and running, and it is beautiful! All functions seem to be working on Android. THANK YOU ALL!!

  4. On 4/2/2022 at 12:21 PM, bookemdano said:

     

    This is all sound advice. If it were me, I would start with swapping back in the old TCU, since that's the most recent change that was made. So completely disconnect the new TCU, reconnect the old TCU and then go in with Forscan and clear the DTC memory. You should know pretty quick if all/some of the DTCs come back.

     

    If they come back (and the car still isn't functioning properly) then you know the TCU itself isn't the issue. You can then work on the other stuff @cr08 pointed out (fixing the bulb, checking that you didn't crimp or abrade any wires when doing the swap or removing that !@$%^ side panel, etc.)

     

    Good luck! Keep us posted.

     

    Thanks to you and cr08, most of the issues are resolved. I did everything you all suggested, and spent a few hours going over the car looking for anything I might have screwed up. Disconnected battery even. In the end it was a fuse. So I reconnected the new TCU, and just going to leave the car disassembled for a while until I start putting it back together again. Then I will tackle these last few things few DTCs that are APIM and TCU related. Thanks again!

  5. On 4/1/2022 at 6:04 PM, JDBlue said:

    I just did the install today. Got a TCU from flvpmods, the official ford antennae the F150 guys are using, and a bingfu cable. Removal was pretty straightforward, thanks to the docs you all posted. I also had to "rock" the big side panel back and forth. Also broke the connector the light that was on that panel, so disconnect that first! I thought I was safe but when the panel finally gave, it broke from the tension on the cable. I also took the advice and used one of the battery cover bolts and drilled out the antennae before mounting it there. As a total novice, it took 2 hours with all the guides you've posted. Thanks!

     

    So far, on the android Fordpass app, it can see where my car is located, but nothing else is working yet. Lock unlock almost worked once, but the a door was ajar. The app told me which door it was, so clearly it is communicating with the car. Looking forward to seeing what functionality pops up in the app! Thanks for all the help so far!

     

    I don't want to derail the thread, but somehow in doing this installation, a ton of stuff got screwed up on my car. Getting a bunch of DTCs now, and my interior lights do not work, the drivers side window controls do not work, and the front windshield wipers are not functioning properly. 

     

    I removed the old TCU, the GM5T-14g087-ag module, replaced it with the H model that everyone is using. Followed the guide. I am guessing I somehow seriously screwed up something else in the car while doing this? I was crazy careful (except for accidentally ripping the wires from the light socket on the trim piece.

     

    Here are my DTCs, if anyone has any ideas. I have a 2014 with retrofit Sync 3 3.4 version. These were working fine before the TCU swap yesterday.

     

    ===BdyCM DTC B1390:87-2F===
    Code: B1390 - Ambient Light Control Module

    Additional Fault Symptom:
     - Missing Message

    Status: 
     - DTC Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Body Control Module

     Freeze Frame  #1:
    -EVENT_TIME: 239153492 s (Sat Nov 10 16:44:27 2035) - Event time
    -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance
    -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage
    -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK  - Power Mode Quality Factor
    -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out  - Power Mode Key State
    ===END BdyCM DTC B1390:87-2F===

    ===BdyCM DTC B1287:11-6C===
    Code: B1287 - Central Lock Switch Illumination

    Additional Fault Symptom:
     - Circuit Short To Ground

    Status: 
     - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
     - Test not complete

    Module: Body Control Module

     Freeze Frame  #1:
    -EVENT_TIME: 239156052 s (Sat Nov 10 17:27:07 2035) - Event time
    -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance
    -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.8 V - Control Module Voltage
    -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK  - Power Mode Quality Factor
    -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out  - Power Mode Key State
    ===END BdyCM DTC B1287:11-6C===

    ===BdyCM DTC B1D13:11-2F===
    Code: B1D13 - Interior Lights Circuit A

    Additional Fault Symptom:
     - Circuit Short To Ground

    Status: 
     - DTC Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Body Control Module

     Freeze Frame  #1:
    -EVENT_TIME: 239153989 s (Sat Nov 10 16:52:44 2035) - Event time
    -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance
    -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage
    -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK  - Power Mode Quality Factor
    -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out  - Power Mode Key State
    ===END BdyCM DTC B1D13:11-2F===

    ===GWM DTC None===
    Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

    Module: Gateway Module A

    ===END GWM DTC None===

    ===DACMC DTC None===
    Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

    Module: Digital Audio Control Module C

    ===END DACMC DTC None===

    ===FCIM DTC None===
    Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

    Module: Front Controls Interface Module

    ===END FCIM DTC None===

    ===TCU DTC U0100:00-08===
    Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A

    Status: 
     - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Telematic Control Unit Module

    ===END TCU DTC U0100:00-08===

    ===TCU DTC U0140:00-0A===
    Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module

    Status: 
     - DTC Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Telematic Control Unit Module

    ===END TCU DTC U0140:00-0A===

    ===TCU DTC U2101:00-08===
    Code: U2101 - Control Module Configuration Incompatible

    Status: 
     - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Telematic Control Unit Module

    ===END TCU DTC U2101:00-08===

    ===TCU DTC B1246:13-08===
    Code: B1246 - GSM (Group System for Mobile) Antenna

    Additional Fault Symptom:
     - Circuit Open

    Status: 
     - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Telematic Control Unit Module

    ===END TCU DTC B1246:13-08===

    ===PDM DTC None===
    Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

    Module: Passengers Door Control Unit

    ===END PDM DTC None===

    ===DDM DTC U2013:87-2F===
    Code: U2013 - Switch Pack

    Additional Fault Symptom:
     - Missing Message

    Status: 
     - DTC Present at Time of Request
     - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

    Module: Drivers Door Module

     Freeze Frame  #1:
    -EVENT_TIME: 239163603 s (Sat Nov 10 19:32:59 2035) - Event time
    -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance
    -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.0 V - Control Module Voltage
    -INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 124 °C - In car temperature
    -OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 16 °C - Outside temperature
    -POWER_MODE: error  - Power Mode Status
    ===END DDM DTC U2013:87-2F===
     

     

     

     

  6. I just did the install today. Got a TCU from flvpmods, the official ford antennae the F150 guys are using, and a bingfu cable. Removal was pretty straightforward, thanks to the docs you all posted. I also had to "rock" the big side panel back and forth. Also broke the connector the light that was on that panel, so disconnect that first! I thought I was safe but when the panel finally gave, it broke from the tension on the cable. I also took the advice and used one of the battery cover bolts and drilled out the antennae before mounting it there. As a total novice, it took 2 hours with all the guides you've posted. Thanks!

     

    So far, on the android Fordpass app, it can see where my car is located, but nothing else is working yet. Lock unlock almost worked once, but the a door was ajar. The app told me which door it was, so clearly it is communicating with the car. Looking forward to seeing what functionality pops up in the app! Thanks for all the help so far!

  7. On 3/19/2022 at 9:31 AM, bookemdano said:

    Installing it is truly plug and play. Note that they normally don't come with a cable--just a male Fakra connector. There is a Ford cable available but I just bought a bingfu female fakra to female fakra cable--there are several different lengths available on amazon.

     

    Plug and play sounds good! No drilling or anything to mount the antenna itself? Where did you place it? The instructions for the official cmax part seem to say to use the built in adhesive to stick it to the trim panel.

  8. On 3/18/2022 at 4:08 AM, David_Tucker4 said:

    I've installed a proper Ford HL3Z-19A390-A PIFA Antenna, and regularly see the same signal levels as you at my house, which is a notoriously awful dead zone for cell service.  At 38-42, I still get excellent response times for any Ford Pass polls or actions.

     

    I should also note that I had originally installed the generic LTE antenna sourced from Amazon, and had signal levels around 20, so this is a definite improvement for me and shows as such in app responsiveness.

     

    Any issues with installing the Antenna, given that it is not the same one the dealership is using in their instructions?

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