mxanotcar

For the 15B04, yes that was applied. However, battery still ran into random almost fully discharged after that was applied. For the 15-0089, not sure since that is for the Energi model. Just saw a Niro newly came out this year that has about 52/49/50 MPG for the base model. Not sure if the MPG is the real world driving number and not the same as the CMax Hybrid base model 47/47 MPG when its was first advertised. Also just browsing Ford website, the CMax plug-in (Energi) model is no longer listed and the CMax Hybrid SE model and CMax Hybrid Titanium model listed (both has the same 42/38 MPG).

Even with the extended warranty, when the known problems with the car that have been occurring cannot be fixed, it is no good and not even counting the time spend, wait, rental cars, deductibles. When the car was still under warranty, the dealership still could not fix known recurring problems with the car. I am glad to hear there are other CMAX have been running normally without recurring problems. However, Ford has not been able to fix all the problems with the battery random discharging in the CMAX Hybrids for those that have been occurring in the SE model. I looked at the dealership service receipt, and the manufactured date was 9/17/2012, and 9/15/2018 was my CMAX Hybrid SE became inoperable. Only 2 days short. As for trading it in, if I know the car is stable and reliable, I can trade it in so that when the traded in car get refurbished and for sale, the next owner can have a stable and reliable used car and not a car plaguing with known problems that Ford somehow still cannot fix. Having Ford tests showed the battery was fine when the battery was not, something definitely is wrong with the Ford tests or quality assurance for the matter.

With all the problems that have been going on the CMAX hybrid since the brand new purchased, the dealership where I bought my CMAX did what they could to probably fix the car. However, not much they could do since when I brought my CMAX to dealership services it was okay and the dealership could not duplicate the problems plaguing the CMAX hybrid. Even when I took my CMAX to the dealership about 12V battery dead and no power to the car, they said make sure remove device from plug-in 12V port and I knew I did not have any plugging into the ports. I do not know about the Ford CMAX Hybrid transmission will fail around 100,000 miles. My other car had about 275,000 miles without any problems or transmission failure and had worked everyday and every time normally.

Last Saturday 09/15/2018, the error message "Stop Safely Now..." with triangle icon appeared on the driver side dashboard. Fortunately, I was not driving on highway or roads. I was starting the car normally and the error "Stop Safely Now..." appeared. Tried to steer but the steering could not be used. There was a huge humming noise when turning key to ignition position, turned turn key off and the huge humming noise went away. I waited for a few hours and tried again and same error and humming noise (not from ICE engine and more like the electric transformer noise). My CMAX Hybrid 2013 (about 5years and 10months old) is just over about 101,000 miles right after warranty 10years/100,000miles expired. Ford really need to recall all CMAX hybrid cars (before loss of lives occurs). If driving on highway or roads and this error message comes up, there is no steering although the brake might still be working. There will be crashes and chain crashes. There are other web sites where CMAX owners have been posting problems with the Ford CMAX hybrid and energi cars since the cars inception. My CMAX hybrid has had the same problems that other owners have been posting such as (I have not read them all, and there are a lot): windows rolling down by themselves, dead 12V battery, 12V battery not been charged correctly, doors did not get locked although the center light lock is orange lit, driver side door and windows controller not working from time to time, clock cannot be changed from time to time, below freezing temperature there has been rumbling huge noise and vibration from engine compartment. When I brought some of these problems (especially the 12V battery dead and the huge noise and vibration from the engine compartment) to the dealership, they said nothing was wrong. My CMAX hybrid is now still parked on the driving lot and gets a good millage since it is not drivable right after the warranty expired. Remember GMC ignition switch problems that caused crashes? And that had been going for years

I am not sure the problem Noel1945 experienced is the same as mine (see my post below back in 2015). It still have been happening (even in 2016) ONLY when temperature is below freezing less than 20F to single digit temperature or a lot of wind with freezing temperature. And it only have happened when the ICE is kicking in. When it has happened and when it have gone back to EV, that strange problem disappear until next time. There is only a workaround (for my CMAX at least): release the gas pedal and ease it back in OR press the gas pedal further to accelerate the car. After one of those workaround, the rattling noise with the high screeching sound from the ICE and high vibration that start from the dashboard to the vibration of the steering wheel will go away (until next time). http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4681-engine-revving-up-highly-with-the-same-gas-pedal-press-but-speed-dropping I tried to accelerate from 0 to 40MPH within 10 seconds on a clear road (I posted in one of posts), and its sound was normal (although louder than usual) and there was no the rattling noise or high screeching sound from the ICE or high vibration on the steering wheel. Also, took to the dealership, and of course, they said they could not find the problem since there were no below freezing temperature on the service day. :)

Update to the (1.) strange loud screeching noise, (2). with high vibration from steering wheel to the floor on the driver side, (3.) even on the passenger side in the front area WHEN THE TEMPERATURE below 32F: The temperature has finally lunged down below 20F, during the mornings, since this Monday 1/4/2016. Every early morning since this Monday, the temp was 17F,14F, and 19F this morning, the same 1 2 3 described above continue to happen, and always start with 1. came on first then the 2. then 3. (there are times: 3. then 2.). Driving speed is at the normal local road, and at hi-way. Normally those 1 2 3 stop when I reach hi-way speed after 15mins in driving, but this morning when I tried to accelerate on the hi-way, 1. sound came up and since I continued pressed down the gas pedal, it went away. :) 2 ways when the 1 2 3 happen: release the gas pedal or press down the gas pedal and the strange symptoms disappear (until the next occurrences).

"Low Battery . . . ..Audio shut off" message has been going for about 2 weeks now. It is used to be happening for 2 to 3 days then no error message and the radio audio ran longer than 30 minutes, then weeks later the same error low battery message came on for 2 to 3 days and the radio shut off after 2 minutes playing when key is in the Accessory or at position 1. I have noticed when the temperature around from 49F to 61F, the low battery message and shut off audio happens. Coincidentally, for 2 weeks now, where I am, the temperature has been around 56F to 60F. Even after driving on the hi-way for 50 minutes, after stop the care, and in about 2 minutes and the key is either in Accessory mode or at position 1: the low battery even came on and shutting off the audio. Either the 12V battery is dying, it is not charged while driving, or the audio does like playing without the car is fully on????? On one of the day of the error, I even turned the car on for 30 minutes, the key to position 1, and the radio still shut off after 2 minutes. Turned key to Accessory mode, radio still remained off. Turned the key to position 4 (car fully on), radio turned back on and saw the low battery error message. And yes, my car is one of the CMAX hybrid having the with 12V dead (or discharged below to 2.96V) for several times now. :)

My 12V portable jumpstarter (with air inflator) dimensions are a bigger than the storage compartment under rear seat floor mat. I saw, at Homedepot, the 12V portable Li-ion jumpstarter, and it was much smaller and much less heavier, but it costs about $80. I might get that one when my 8-years old 12V lead-acid portable jumpstarter does not work anymore. And yes, the 12V jump connections are under the hood. The negative pole is very close, and nearly underneath, to the other electrical wirings OR the other electrical wirings is too close and nearly on top and cover the pole. And that make the big spring clamps, that come with the portable jumpstarter (or any regular jumper cables), have a difficult time to attach to when jumpstarting. May be when the wireless-electrical-charging devices come to the market, I can just point that to the no-power-locked car and it unlocks the relay from the big HV battery to charge the 12V battery and run the car. :)

The mileage currently is 48912. And I will let you know when the appointment gets closer.

5th time 12V battery got discharged and had to be jumpstarted on 10/09/2015. And here is a bit of 12V battery failures: 3rd 03/17/2014 4th 02/23/2015 5th 10/09/2015 (light rain in the morning. Clock stayed at 05:20AM after jumpstarted at 07:15AM. Only if I started the car at 05:00AM, it would not happened :) . But that Friday night, there was very heavy rain and the car started up normally in the morning around 9:00AM. ???????????? What ????????????? ) After the 4th 12V battery failure, on 05/06/2015 to 05/07/2015 at dealership service department, the following was done to the CMAX: Short summary of the receipt: -Customer complained: No crank/no start. -TSP 13-06-28 applied. -Could not duplicated hi-revving since the weather condition below freezing temp is needed. -Oil changed. -Multipoint inspections. -Extended Warranty deductible paid. -Reprogram BCM. The TSP 13-06-28 was applied to the car, but the car is not "Intelligent Access Remote Start feature Equipped Vehicles" although the car "built before 4/2/2013". There was newer TSP out there at that time the TSP 13-06-28 was applied. And there is CSP 15B04 which probably fix the 12V battery keep randomly gotten discharging and cannot start up the car. I am guessing this replaced 12V battery is dying now or has been dying since the discharging and non-charging keep happening. Whether or not my car 12V battery had been replaced back 2013, I am not sure since the date stamp on the battery sticker is 2011 although the service receipt said it was replaced back in 2013. Today, I made an appointment for Monday 12/21/2015 as another oil change coming up. While speaking with the service advisor, he said there is a recall about the 12V battery failure (I think it is CSP 15B04), so basically whatever the dealership doing to the CMAX for 2 days (05/06 and 05/07) trying to fix the 12V battery failure based on instruction by the Ford engineer IS USELESS. Also, the rear bigger chair could not be folded anymore (whatever the dealership was trying to diagnose the car, it made the chair not fold down anymore), and I just found that out on last Friday while I was stumbling around getting the jumpstarter in the powered-down-locked cargo area (nice design, it needs a manual hatch door level). The above is a little info for anyone having similar problems with the 12V battery failures.. . . .

Is the TSB 14-0155 latest TSB for the discharged 12V battery? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From link: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4797-tsb-14-0155-hybrid-and-energi-–-discharged-12-volt-battery/ TSB 14-0155HYBRID AND ENERGI – DISCHARGED 12 VOLT BATTERY Publication Date: August 27, 2014 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ My last oil change from the dealer was 9/17/2014. At that time, the car had 2 recalls done (from the receipt): 14so2 Reprogramming Restraint Control Module (this one I received a letter from Ford), and 14E02 Reprogramming PCM (this one the service advisor said after checking the recalls and it was a new recall). Is TSB 14-0155 come after 14E02 recall?

Sunday 2/23/2015. Temp about 35F. Time 11:12AM. Snow and ice and rain, from last night, covered on top of the car and melting. And once again, the car did not response to remote key door opening due to dead battery. I was able to measure the 12V, and it was about 3.56V. Popped in the jump starter, and the car woke up. There were no error messages, and it seemed some settings reset to default (instrumental dimming light, fan speed at 1, radio channel remained the same). And the time on the radio screen was 22:27 and the time in the dashboard was 11:15. So the event probably occur around 22:27 last night. Now to figure out what the events cause the 12V battery to drained down 3.56V has been a mystery even to Ford enginneers (if they even looked at the problems, or knew about the problems at all). Could it be moisture seeping into electronic components or and cause short circiut somewhere in the CMAX? About a week ago, there was also snow and temp was in the single digit. The car responded okay, no 12V drained down to 3.56V like yesterday. This made the 4th 12V battery drained/failure occurence on my CMAX. The 2nd replacement 12V battery is probably dying now just like the 1st one. The car might need brand new 12V battery every 1.5 years. A couple of the previous posts about the similar dead battery situations with my CMAX: #12 http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3602-dealer-charged-dead-battery-says-now-good-to-go/ #139 http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2996-recurrence-of-battery-failure/page-7

Good news, it looks like the computer or whatever component in the car is now back to normal. Probably the same component misread the voltage to show the "low battery" message. Probably the same component to discharge the battery when the car is totally turned off. That component could be a software or hardware. Great, back to the drawing board again since, as I have read many thread of the CMAX battery dead threads on the forum, most of them has been pointing to certain hardware. 01/21/2015 11:40AM, after parked for about 3 hours, turned the key to position 1 and the radio continued playing for over 20mins without "low battery" message.

The 2nd replaced, about a year and a half ago, 12V battery on my CMAX is probably not getting charged even after driving on highway for 50mins to 1hour recenlty: 01/20/2015 11:15AM, after parked the car for 3 hours after hi-way driving 1hour, turned the key to ignition postion 1 to get the radio playing. After 3mins, the radio shutoff, turned the key to ignition postion 3, the "low battery..." message appeared. Turned the car off, and turned the key to postion 1 again, 1 to 2 minus later the radio turned off again. Turned the car on, the "low battery" appeared again. This time I left the key at position 3 for 10mins, hopefully the 12V get charge. 01/21/2015 7:40AM, right after hi-way driving for about 50mins, parked the car, removed the key, radio still playing (have not open the door yet). After 1min, the "low battery" appeared but the screen immediately shutoff. Turned the key to position 3, and there it was the "low battery" appeared again. For each time, I got into and looked at the ET screen for the 12V voltage. If key was at postion 2, the 12V had 12.4Volt constantly. And when I turned the key to postion 3, it showed between 14.3 and 14.4 (flickering between those 14.3 and 14.4). I could have radio on for 20mins or more when key is at postion 1 or 10mins when the key is taken out before I open the driver door. The "low battery" happened from time to time before but never in twice in a row like the above. There were times I saw the "low battery" message and the radio was auto-shutoff. But immediately after that, took out the key, turned the key to position 3 and back to position 1: no "low battery" for 20mins or more until I shut the car off and opened the door. There were also times I saw the "low battery" message on the previous days. And after driving 1 to 2 hours, parked the car for 3 to 4 hour, and then the key to postion 1 and the radio play for 50mins or more before I turned off the car and locked the car. It is probably whatever computer component controlling the 12V battery charging or reading has gone haywire. Or it has always been like this, I do not know. Or the 12V battery is in need of another replacement, but then that replacement get no charging as it is always supposed to. Or another problem adding to the unknown phanthom discharge that still not sovled by Ford.

Thanks. I will take the car to the Ford dealership, that I have been going for the services, on its next oil change for the diagnostic (may be after the diagnostic, they can feed it some kind of asprins :) ). I have changed MyView from kW output to tach rpm output as hybridbear suggested. I'll be on the look out for that strange and almost like screeching noise with higher than normal vibration (noticeably can be felt from the steering wheel) for the normal driving conditions and without speed gain. The described increasingly loud noise, until gas pedal is released or pressed down a bit further to accelerate, is different from the high rpm. I tried to speed up from 0 to 40MPH (no traffic) within 10secs to see if the high rpm sound is the same as that noise, and it was different. It could be gear auto-shifting confusion during, or rather immediately before, the strange loud noise espisodes. And the model is 2013. I think it was made or rolling off assembly line on September 2012.

I might have found a way around the high engine revving up (HERU) and no speed acceleration on unchanged gas pedal pressure while driving with D(drive) shift: Thursday 1/8/2015. Temp 8F. Time around 7am. As reaching 10MPH (unlike 30MPH to 40MPH previously), the HERU kept happening so I released and then eased in the gas pedal for each time the HERU occurred. Finally got to 60MPH, the HERU went away and acceleration was normal. Friday 1/9/2015. Temp 26F. Time around 7:15am. The HERU happened again around 30MPH to 40MPH, and this time as soon as I heard the HERU loud noise kicked in, I pressed the gas pedal a bit further down to accelerate and the HERU loud noise disappeared almost right away. And the car accelerated normally. After 1/9/2015 HERU espisode with the work around, I have not heard HERU come on anymore (hopefully that is the last of it). If it happens again, just need pressing a bit on the gas pedal (and really mind the traffic) to get the car accelerate to stop the HERU. This is another one of bizzare things that CMAX Hybrid does, at least mine anyways.

There were serveral times of the same high engine revving up after I wrote down the numbers below. I re-looked at the ET screen again when I got the chance, and the same number displayed. I do not think the high engine revving up is stored in DTC codes. It is very very difficult to reproduce the issue (whatever it is causing the high engine revving up during normal driving conditions). It does happen again (but not often) since the day it first happened. This morning, temp 20F, between 30MPH and 40MPH, it came up again. And it came up again at right about hitting 40MPH mark with the gas pedal unchanged (no releasing or further pressing). As soon as I heard the revving up (I knew that noise now), car continued rolling but no acceleration, released the gas pedal, pressed the gas pedal to same level when the previous revving up occurred, and car accelerated passing the 40MPH mark as normal. I have tried again for about the same speed as above but high revving up did not come up. Also, the HV battery can drive car during those speed, sometimes HV sometimes ICE sometimes both, and now adding high engine revving up without acceleration. Also, MyView is set with the usage of kW of ICE and HV battery so I know when the ICE kicks in or driving in HV or both. And the high engine revving up has happened around when the first 2 white marks are fully white during ICE. During those time of high engine revving up (HERU), that noise came on but the white marks barely pass the 2nd white mark. On the normal acceleration (without HERU), the 2nd white mark is passed immediately and fast, and car accelerates as normal. Here are the numbers all marked with HIST: C14600 C29300 C40181 C41282 C41581 C41582 C42082

"Was your shifter accidentally in Low instead of Drive? Having the shifter in Low causes the engine to rev up very loudly." I looked at it, and it was on orange D not L or N. If on L, it would still accelerating but it was not and the speed was slowly dropping. Currently, waiting for another 10mins time to post another PM message "You cannot start another PM topic . . .. .. " for another 10mins. All DTC numbers have the X marked in the HIST column. It looks like Plus 3 Golfer member "can not use the messaging system", error from messaging. I also sent the DTC to hybridbear.

12/31/2104 Temp 26F. Time about 7am. Driving on local road after backing out parking lot after 12hour parking: About 25MPH-40MPH, I did not speed up and the gas pedal remained the same, and suddenly a huge engine noise came on (later realized it was the the engine revving up highly) but the car did not speed up. Released the gas pedal, applied the same amount of pressure of the gas pedal (87% still to go more if pedaling all the way to the metal), car was still rolling, and the same high engine revving up. I dropped the speed down to about 10MPH, and slightly apply the gas, and a few seconds later the same high revving engine came on. Released the gas pedal, and repeat until I could find the shopping area to stop. At stop in the parking lot, turned the heat to max for 5mins, after that, turned off the engine for 1mins. Turned car back on, and drove as normal without the high engine revving up. 01/02/2015 Temp 29F. After 12hour parking, time about 7:20am on local road and about 7:40am on highway: The same thing occurred one on the local road, and one on the highway. In these two times, I released the gas pedal, and re-applied the same pressure on the gas pedal, and there were no high engine revving up and the speed increased as normal. There are two engine noises as the car moving that I have noticed up to now: 1. Also a huge noise but more like an OMMMMMM. A huge OMMMM noise as the ICE kick in to the speed. This one seems to be normal although it always came on suddenly even without pressing the gas pedal further more, and the car speed does not drop and the car can go faster when pressing down the gas pedal. This OMMM noise has been happening since the date I got the car. It happens from time to time. One big OMMMM and then it blends down to regular operating engine noise. 2. The new high engine revving (like a screeching) noise as describing from the begining this post. This one is different from the number 1. There is no initial big OMMM, but it is as if the gas pedal pressing down to the metal until the gas pedal release. And the car speed drop, no acceleration. I could take the car to the dealership. They could probably find something wrong with it IF they can reproduce the problems. I doubt they can reproduce the problems without having the car at the dealership for days and days. I have no doubt if I described to them as to what described here, I would have the similar reactions and responds that I received when I described to them about the dead car from the 12V battery problems which should be widely known by now. Hopefully, this new engine high revving noise is one time thing like several others one-time occurrences with the CMAX Hybrid. Mileage: ~35,800 miles. At purchase, I was debating about the Hybrid or Energize. I was thinking that let's try out the base model, if all goes well/normal, I would upgrade to an Energize. May be it I got the Energize then, then there would be no issues. It is a good to great car in its class, but it is not normal to have these issues.

To reponse to the post from ptjones "Posted 20 December 2014 - 06:06 PM": I have the similar setup for months now since last year. Mine self-adhesive rubber/foam ($6 for about 30ft roll with thickness of about 1/4inch) is taping at bottom instead on to the hood. I do not block the center grill, but I placed a one-piece soft-rubber where the two flimsy vinyl pieces that come with the car. My last check was it actually blocked about 72 to 76% of rain/salt+snow mixture blowing into the engine compartment. About the rain/water+salt snow mixture blowing into the engine compartment, I posted about this many months ago. With the CMAX front cover (where the front - grill is) is actually made of plastic, it is not easy to fully close it unlike Nissan Maxima engine compartment seals.

So far my CMAX has two different noises with the first one sound like the one you SilverSurfer posted above. That first one has been around for many months now, and I have not been sure what cause the rattling noise. It seems coming from the passenger side dashboard, and it not always rattling but may be it always does that but the radio volume cancelled it out if the volume on hi. I have not heard the 2nd one "firework sparking stick" coming from the speakers since that day. May be the solder or welding parts finally soldered and welded electronically from short circuting :)

I have an 8 years old portable jumper with air inflator in the rear hatch area. Also have a volt meter, but have not used that to check on the 12V battery anymore. After recieving "Low battery..." message, I turned the key to on and left it there for 5mins for the Hi-Volt battery charging the 12V. After that, I locked the car, and after 3 to 4hours turned on the car and drove normally. Either the 12V battery is dying from not getting charge or the electronic and software issues saying the "Low battery...." although the 12V was not low (also the other way around). This occurrence has not seen since that day (hoping). :)

Monday 11/14/2014. Weather temp 33F. Time 6:40am. Thin ice on windshield, turned up max heat, used windshield fluid wiper to thaw the ice faster. Drove above 55mins. Parked and locked the car. Weather temp was 62F around 11:30am. Turned on the radio with ignition key positioned at 1. One minute later, a message about "Low battery . .. " and it turned off. May be I caught it and charged the battery before another the dead battery espisode occurrs.

Monday 11/3/2014. Weather temp 43F. Time around 6:40am. Driving on highway. Radio has been on since the car started 30mins ago. Around 6:40am, there as some kind of static or sound like from firework sparking stick that was coming from the speakers for serveral minutes. I thought may be the radio channel need to change. But before I changed it, the radio screen was turned off and blank, and the radio channel still was playing. And then the radio screen was back to normal being on again, the radio channel was still playing, but the sparking noises from the speakers were gone. This has happened one time. Bizzare? And yes yes, I only have the basic model with radio equipment only. :)

Might be I have the same error that happened last Sunday morning. Turned on my car to move to different spot of parking, drove a very short distance, and as soon as the ICE kicking in, there were two lights: one is orange symbol and one symbol is red (cannot remember what symbols looked like, but they were above the organe engine light picture which was off). And a small box came up showing something like "stop the car to safety?????". I turned the key off and back on, still the same error. I took the key out and locked the car, and about 1hr 30mins later I had to drive somewhere, turned on the car and drove as normal, the error have not been shown up since. . .. .. Bizzzzzzaaaarreeee .. .. . . .. . . About 32K miles now. Does anyone do some kind of post like: bizarre things that a CMAX does.