mxanotcar

I had the recent 14E02 PCM regrogramming done yesterday during the oil change service and a recall reprogramming restraint module. Did not know what was it for until read the above. It look like it has no impact on the mileage. However, I noticed after the update, when the key in the accessary mode, the orange engine icon light was on like it usually does, and the after a second or two it flashes repeatedly 7 times, and after those flashing it stops. I did not notice this flashing 7 times before the recent update. Do those engine light flashes mean anything?

On the high way today, as I was first passing by another Cmax in white color in the next lane, I saw there was some kind of material in the gap, on the right side of that car, between the hood edge and the engine compartment outside edge. I matched the speed of that slower car, and there it is. There is definitely some kind of material, may be rubber, filling that gap. I do not think that car belong to any members on this blog site, do you? I could not stop that car and ask to look at the other side gap and the front side gap. :) Another car owner found the CMax hood is not properly seal. The CMax hood seal is definitely not properly sealed. In fact, there is no hood seal at all. This is about same with having 1/4inch to 1/2in open in the car windows and going through the car wash or heavy rain.

I am waiting for the upcoming snow/winter/cold season 2014 into early 2015. I hope my CMax 12V battery does not drained during the period like it had been before during the same period in before year. If it does not, then I would said yes the 12V battery problem is fixed sort of (after all those updates and recalls), at least on my CMax. Current lifetime AVG is 39.5MPG. Really, not bad considering I have been using highway most of my driving. And yes, 999MPG can be achieved easily, for a short distant traveling only and if there is no vehicles right behind my car. I remembered the 1st time I talked to the service advisor about the car would not start up (dead 12V battery). The service advisor asked me: did I leave anything on? or did I unplug all the device/s from the 12V port? :) If the dealership did not know this problem then, they should know this 12V problem by now, don't you/readers think so?

Just received it yesterday. Along with it was the new MPG post in the letter. The MPG is now 40 combined / 42 city / 37 hwy. Now, that is about right since my lifetime AVG is 39.5MPG currently at about 27K total miles. I've driven mostly on hwy and no hypermiling (guess what MPH I have been driven). The received amount is going back to the full size spare wheel and kits that I paid for when bought the car. 40/42/37 is not bad at all considering 184HP and fast (could be better with more touque on the motor). Reading through nearly all the thread posted on here, if this car fixes all its shortcomings (missing sparewheel, i.e.), this would be a perfect car without playing game with the EPA MPG.

I was thinking about the Volt, but when I saw the actual car on the dealer lots which was way different from the first introduced model on the show floor, too bad, and I did not get one. I may get it if it had more storage space and at much lower price. Also is it still true the Volt still using premium gas and not regular gas?

During the recent oil change,the dealership test load the 12V battery to see it was dead yet. This second 12V battery did not dead (passed the load test). When I got the car the back, the clock was off. And since the clock has been off before during 12V outages and it would be back to normal after a couple of weeks by itself, I waited and yes, the clock came back to normal (can be adjusted and run normally). Could have taken the car back to the dealership, but that is an another inconvience.

There are two clocks: 1 in the center console (this one likely get stuck if 12V battery gets power outage), and 1 right next to the speedometer on right (this one you can change the clock if needed even after outage). Mine in the center console get stuck and was unchangable after the dealership test the 12V battery load during the oil change. I did not have time to take the car back in to the dealership and since I know about a few weeks the center clock would come back to regular time, I waited for about 2 weeks and the center clock was back to normal again. This happened before during the other 12V power outages, and a hassle to go back into the dealership not to mention inconvenience. You can use the other clock until the the center clock is back to normal. If you do not mind going to the dealership, go for it.

I have been away for a while now, I am back. Just about I was thinking of wraping my Cmax with tinfoil . .. .. :) So far, the battery have appeared to be working okay without power outtages since the last power outtage (three times has occcured with the 3rd time after the update). One more outtage, the battery will need to be replaced just like the previous battery replacement. One issue left with the CMax hybird: no properly hood seal for the 2013 models. I posted this months ago on another topic / thread. I read that the 2014 CMax this year model building in Sep or Oct that those will have a new hood seal. I have not seen what it looks like. Mean while, I have inserted a rubber strip in front of flimsy vinyl factory hood seal (not really a hood seal) and the left and right sides. And it has prevented water from entering the engine compartment (about 76%) when driving on the wet and salty road depending on the season and the other cars kick up the water from the wheels (espcially from big trucks).

CMax-Traveler, welcome to unknown battery failure, before or after recall service was applied. I drove one of the rental car while having the CMax in service, I think it was small Nissan pickup truck, and it had a battery volatage messurement next to the speed meter. May be, Ford can do a software update to have this feature? And to other readers, I am not sure if anyone has post this question, but: Any chance that Ford remotely updating software or reading our CMax Hybrid and cause the battery drained?

Isn't the fully charged 12V battery is about 12.9V, after leveling out from disconnecting from charger, and remains at 12.9V for a long time? And when a 12V battery voltage goes down to below 12.5V, the battery is nearly empty. If it is about 12.0V or below for a period of time, the sulphation occurs and overtime make the battery not accepting any charge?

One more detail: Both of the clock showed 01:20, and the actual time was around 10:30 right after jumpstart. This probably give any readers of this thread some clues and the fact that the car 12V battery problem actually occurred night before or afternoon before.

From ptjones: "NO Under the hood on the right side there is a red plastic cover over battery positive connecting point. You will connect your jumper cable there find a good ground to connect the negative end too. This is in your manual on page 256." Yes, I looked at the manual but still could not find the negative post as shown in the picture in the manual. I stopped looking at the manual picture, and looked at the possible locations where it could it be, and I found it. Then compare that with the picture in the manual, and the picture was/is blurry and saturated on the print out, so no wonder trying to find what showed in the picture is difficult comparing with the actual. From Maxy: "Thank you both for your reply, will do. I have read some postings on the 12 v battery recall. Sadly, sounds like even the battery replacement has not solved the problem....... What the heck is going on? How is that possible that after all this time FORD still cannot fix this problem? I should not worry about how to jump start my new car every couple of weeks or month. It is frustrating. I call Ford Customer Service every time it happens and they give me a new "case number", but no follow up or nothing. They act like this is the first time they hear about such a problem! Just by reading the posts it is obvious there is plenty of complaints, I am not the only one. Maybe they need some media attention." It seems the 12V battery drain is still a problem after the 13B12 update. I drove my car almost every day on long trip on highway, and that might help my car 12V from fully drained by whatever that Ford has not figured out yet. I had my third 12V battery problem and had to jumpstart it after that update, more like hop starting it. I drove and parked my car on Saturday, did not drove on Sunday, and on Monday snow covered about 5inches on top of the car. I went out to clear the snow off the car, and be hold: car did not response when unlocking the door from the key, opened the driver door old fashioned way, climbed in the back seat and lower it to get the portable jumper, opened the hood (and be hold on another scene: the engine compartment looks very abnormal dirty from water and salt mixture kicked up at high speed from other vehicle while traveling on the road), connected the cable and jumpstarted (hop it), and the car was able to operate again without the middle clock stuck this time. I am sure there is many upsetting Ford Cmax Hybrid owners out there. Hopefully, Ford can fix the problem/s with this car. Something Ford probably has been overlooked or dismissed and considerred the problems as vehicle normal operating?

I see that the 12V battery is located in the back of the car. If the 12V battery were located in the engine compartment and with the problem of hood not properly seal engine compartment, how long those exposed battery terminals, connectors, wires would last against with water and salt mix that get spray through the gap openings? When driving in the rain or salt mix during weather inclement, there is always spray at high-speed from other vehicles in front of and left and right side of your car. Wondering if Ford has somekind of water spray tunnels that they can run tests on their vehicles besides wind tunnels.

ArizonaEnergi "Ford Roadside assistance is for 5 years, or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first": That is sort of nice. I thought that was what they said that I needed to buy extended warranty to get that when I bought the car. ScubaDadMiami Get a spare tire kit: a full size spare tire (with or without the TPMS) or donut type. Tom I also "placed the spare outside facing down" and put the jack inside the wheel well.

Also, I turned off the EV+ on mine a long time ago (and it did turn on by itself because of my 12V battery problem, but I turned it off again). It does work but not really useful unless you car is Energi model. Of course, it depends how your driving prefrences are and how much you want your high-volt battery gauge remains (near full or 1/4 left) when you finish your driving trips.

If there is no other vehicles behind my car while driving, I usually very light on the gas pedal so it runs on battery only. If there is other vehicles behind my car while driving, I match their speed or at least get to slightly over the speed limit of the road, release the gas pedal and lightly press it. Do that, and my car run (some times coasting) on battery only. I saw somewhere on the web that posting that you can speed up your car fast from stop (just be mindful about the traffics, and this will also use the ICE) to get the gear into the higher gear, and then release the gas pedal and ease in it until certian degree and not all the way down: with this you can ride your car fast and use the battery mostly until about 1/4 left on the gauge.

Yes, I agree we all should not need to do all of this findings, but unfortunately it seems Fords cannot fix the problem/s with their cars, especially on this 12V battery issue continue to be a problem even after the update (13B12 to correct the problem of electronic module fails to transition to sleep state). That update, however, made my radio able to run longer than 10mins, roughly around 20mins to 50mins. Before that update, I sometimes could play radio longer than 10mins, and some other times around 10mins to 12mins runs, I recieved a message "Low battery" saver and then the radio shut off. I had to turn the key to ignition 3 to get the radio turn on again and left that for 15mins and hopefully the 12V could be recharged. The ignition key was in the 1 position during these radio playing times (not 0 2, or 3). This coming Saturday I might be able to bring the car to my dealership service manager for, I think, a look at (from Ford Service outreach) after I can confirm the Saturday date on this Friday for the issue of road-salt-water-spot collected badly in the engine compartment. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3599-road-salt-badly-collected-into-engine-compartment/ I am not sure if the dealership can fix the 12V battery failure that I also posted in this thread below http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1294-for-those-who-have-had-12v-battery-problems/page-9 at #178

I bought the full stock rim, tire, and the dumb tire-pressure sensor TPSM, and put it with the jack in the cargo area. The dealership did not know there was not a spare tire when buying the car. The TPSM is about $99 dollar. If you use the equipped tire inflation kit, you will need to add $99 when getting the blown tire replaced. The Prius, the fish shape looking type model, does come with spare donut tire and jack as any normal sense would have, and if you compare the cargo hold space between the Prius and the CMax. the CMax's with the spare tire included (ahem, purchased) is way below the Prius. It is not the gas saving or weight issue for with or without the spare tire on the CMax, but it is the cost/profit and design issue that the CMax does not come with a spare tire kit. The Ford roadside assistance only available until you have about 26,000miles on the car. You will need to buy more after this. Even if the Ford roadside assistance is for the life of the car, it is still be much better if the car still comes with a spare tire kit.

I had the three recalls (powertrain, headliner, and shutdown all component so not to drain 12V battery) done at 20,500miles. It is now about 21,680miles, and this morning, I had to jumpstarted again and this is the 3rd time. The car had no light, no responding to open button on the key just like the first two time. The 1st and 2nd times occurred when the car was about 3,000 and a little less than 6,000miles. I had the battery replaced around 8,000miles (before those 3 recalls). And now it seems to repeat again. The first two times, I got the message like "...limit speed to 80MPH", and had to turn off and on a few times before that message disappeared. This 3rd time, there is no message but also the radio, fan, panel view settings were changed to something else. Also, the clock was at 1:20, but I did not try to use the car until around 10am this morning. Something is really wrong to 2013 hybrid models. Mine was from September 2012.

This morning was the 3rd time I had to jumpstarted my CMax hybrid after recalls (powertrain, headliner, and turn off all components so no draining on 12V battery). Before recalls, I had to jumpstarted the 1st and 2nd time, and the dealership replaced the failing battery (the 1st and 2nd time occurred when the car was less than 6000miles). Now, it is around 21,000miles. This 3rd time I did not see the message like "...limit speed to 80MPH" appearing on the left panel, after jumpstarting like I did on the first two times. I guess this replaced 12V battery is not as dead yet. I am happy to use my portable jumpstart battery with air compressor that about 6years old that I have never need to use on my previous car from another brand. and LOL on typing this and seeing Ford advertising on their vehicles on TV.

Yes, I noticed those two big holes (one on the left and one on the right), too. See below for my thread and another thread from C-MaxSea regarding the huge issue. There is no recall regarding this issue for 2013 model as I know of at this time. I used the pipe rubber insulation, (also from homedepot) self-adhesive tape (2in wide by 20ft or 26ft long by 1/4in thick) costs about $7.65, for the both side edges and where the hood comes in contact with the headlight casing. I did this several days ago and drove the car but the weather had been good. I was hoping to run this morning, it was heavily snowed through out the night, after snow plowed on highway. However, the car battery was dead again, and I had to jump started it again. This of course after 3 recent recalls were completed by the dealership (power train, headliner, and turn off components so they do not drain 12V battery). I jumpstarted 2 times before the recalls (dealership replaced the failing 12V battery), and just this morning 1 time. :) each time it happened, radio settings, climate, views, etc... jumped to different various settings. Back to the two big gaps on the front grill, I think I can use the garage door seal from wab above thread to also seal those two gaps and not the gap opening for the air intake pipe. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3599-road-salt-badly-collected-into-engine-compartment/ http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2928-overbite-hows-yours/

To anyone still viewing this post orginated by C-MaxSea, yes the hood seal between the engine compartment and the hood is a problem. You can see my other post in the link below and how this problem can be bad overtime. I also posted the pictures on water and salt spots collected and corrosion in the engine compartment to my gallery. I think you need to log in to view the gallery. For the stoppers, on mine, I was able to turn both clock-wise all the way down, and the hood edge was not hit the headlight casing, and the gaps between those are now much closer. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3599-road-salt-badly-collected-into-engine-compartment/ http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/gallery/member/1916-mxanotcar/

I just uploaded the pictures 12 of them if anyone want to see the details. I surprised this kind of water and salt spots dirtiness has been happening in this car. My previous car from different brand did not have this problem, and so does my friend still brand new Maxima about 20,000miles now, I listed in the above post, since it has proper rubber seal between engine compartment and the surrounding hood edge. I see there are two hard plastic posts with the rubber covered on top, I turned those two clock-wise all the way down. And I lowered and locked hood, and the front gaps and the gaps where the headlights are are much smaller. I think I can find some after-market rubber seals to use on the hood front and may be seal the opening where those two hard plastic posts are, and also need to two pieces of the rubber seal for the headlight casings. Then I will clean the engine compartment, ugh.... It might be the cost cutting or quality inspection or just design error for this issue.