JohnTrigger

You need to find out what the check engine codes are, as it could be many problems. Ask the dealer what they were or better yet take it to AutoZone or the like to have them read the codes.

I know this post is 5 yrs old. Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution. 2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles. Rough running, flashing engine MIL light, P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup). I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier). First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire. Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors... Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips. I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil. Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip. Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes. Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right. Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built). Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone. Hope this helps someone.

And this video shows you the basics of how/where to check the level and add fluid. Use Mercon LV transmission fluid-dealer or AutoZone should have it.

Hi Maddie, yes something is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. A bit hard to tell from the pics but maybe leaking between the two halves of the casing. How long has it been like that and are you seeing drops on the ground after parking at work or home? If you aren’t sure I’d suggest wiping it with a rag then spraying it clean with some non chlorinated brake cleaner you buy ant AutoZone type store, then monitor. Are you noticing noises or bad shifts when accelerating or decelerating? I’d certainly suggest you check your fluid level. You do that by removing the plug on the side of the transmission housing from inside the left front wheel well. See my post in this thread for some additional info.

Just some basic questions for you…I assume when you park it and walk around the front of the vehicle, you don’t smell antifreeze, correct? Do you still have the fiber cover underneath the vehicle, as per perhaps it has absorbed the leak and that’s why you’re not seeing it on the floor? Did you check the oil and make sure it’s not milky looking, or at a higher level than anticipated, because the antifreeze is leaking into the oil through the head gasket? Feel closely around the plastic bottle that is pressurized to feel for wetness. And look closely at the sides and bottom of the radiator. If still no leak noted, you need to do a pressure test.

I just replaced my two front bearings and hubs on my 2013 SEL. Bought parts at Rock Auto including new Timken sealed bearings, snap rings, axle nuts, and Motorcraft hubs. Bought tools I needed at Amazon. Bought high powered/torque battery impact at Harbor Freight (Hercules brand). Basically did it how this guy did it:

I know this thread is two years old but for those reading it in future, what I found was 110NM or 81 ftlb. Source (pg44): https://cdn.skfmediahub.skf.com/api/public/094dddb2a353170f/pdf_preview_medium/094dddb2a353170f_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

It can be done at home if you have tools and are mechanically inclined, although it’s a good amount of hard work. I just replaced the rear hub/bearings on my ‘13 CMax SEL with 112K miles on it. It is one unit as stated above. You have to buy the correct one (depending on if you have park assist or not as park assist needs to measure forward and back speeds and has a different electrical connection). Rockauto sells various brands including Motorcraft OEM. Basically, jack the car, remove wheel, remove brake caliper, remove caliper bracket, remove rotor, remove hub which is held on by 4 x E14 head bolts (speed sensor electrical connection is on back well hidden and hard to reach), Replace. Rear caliper bracket torque is 70 NM, rear caliper pins is 35 NM, and the hub bolts are 110 Newton Meters. You’ll need 7mm hex socket for the caliper pins, 13 or 14 mm socket (can’t remember) for the caliper bracket, and as stated a E14 socket with various extension bars to reach around the coil spring and get to the hub bolt heads. May as well replace rotors and pads while you’re doing it if they are getting close. Of course, it’s generally much harder than that because things are likely rusted in place. You might need to beat the rotor off with a hammer and therefore you’ll ruin it. You will probably need a torch to heat the hub bolts then add lots of penetrating oil to remove those, and you’ll likely need a slide hammer tool that you attach to the wheel studs to slam the hub off with.

Could be the tranny. What year and model is your CMax and how many miles? Early models (~2013-14) used a suspect bearing in the transmission.

If you are in park (in your case with the gas engine running), is the sound present? If yes, it’s not the transmission per TSB 19-2391.

Your transmission fluid is Motorcraft Mercon LV (low viscosity) ATF and you’ll need 5 quarts for a drain and fill. You can buy the Mercon LV fluid at AutoZone. Your brake fluid is Motorcraft DOT 4 LV high performance brake fluid. See pages 351-353 at the link below and pay attention to the notes 1 & 3 on page 353. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13cmhom3e.pdf

Some evidence to support my suspicion above…. https://www.amazon.com/ransmission-shifter-Bushing-KV6Z7K340A-DG9Z7S004A/dp/B0C1M2VVDN/ref=asc_df_B0C1M2VVDN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6898709519249518604&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007686&hvtargid=pla-2281435178338&psc=1&mcid=470f88dc75493ef89c42e4332094fccf&hvocijid=6898709519249518604-B0C1M2VVDN-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1

The transmission on my 2013 CMax is original. That old part was original. I believe the only thing they change out on this recall is that slightly orangish looking plastic bushing and replace it with a new one (and cover it with a cap to make it last longer). I’m sure when new it should be a whitish cream color (similar to the color of the new protective cap), but over the years fades from oxidation/heat/cold/grime/etc to the off-orangish color it became in that top pic. Ford used a very similar setup on many of its cars from the 20-teens. When that inner bushing breaks you can’t shift out of the gear you are in. Poor design. My son in law was stranded in the middle of the road after backing out of his drive due to that bushing deciding to break when he tried to shift into drive in his Ford Fusion.

Took me a bit of time to get around to getting this done at the dealer. Here is the old one: Here is the new one with its protective cover: This is on a 2013 CMax SEL

I know this is older topic. I just recently drained (~4.4 qts) and refilled (~4.8 qts) my 2013 CMax SEL transmission fluid at 112,000 miles. I purchased 5 Mercon LV qt bottles at AutoZone. I used a gallon/quart pump from harbor freight that screws tight onto these larger mouth quart bottles and pumped/filled through the level plug until full with the car up on my QuickJacks and left front wheel removed. I think you could probably get at the level plug with the steering wheel turned full left and car on ground but I didn’t need to do that. Put the level plug back in and started car up for one minute then shut down and waited five minutes. Then re-loosened the level plug and let some excess fluid drain out until it stopped coming out the level plug. Tightened level plug back up. Put the wheel back on, lowered the QuickJacks, and went for a test drive. Old fluid wasn’t horrible but certainly wasn’t fresh either. Didn’t notice any metal flakes. I even ran a magnet through the old fluid but it was clean when I wiped it off.