JohnTrigger

And this video shows you the basics of how/where to check the level and add fluid. Use Mercon LV transmission fluid-dealer or AutoZone should have it.

Hi Maddie, yes something is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. A bit hard to tell from the pics but maybe leaking between the two halves of the casing. How long has it been like that and are you seeing drops on the ground after parking at work or home? If you aren’t sure I’d suggest wiping it with a rag then spraying it clean with some non chlorinated brake cleaner you buy ant AutoZone type store, then monitor. Are you noticing noises or bad shifts when accelerating or decelerating? I’d certainly suggest you check your fluid level. You do that by removing the plug on the side of the transmission housing from inside the left front wheel well. See my post in this thread for some additional info.

Just some basic questions for you…I assume when you park it and walk around the front of the vehicle, you don’t smell antifreeze, correct? Do you still have the fiber cover underneath the vehicle, as per perhaps it has absorbed the leak and that’s why you’re not seeing it on the floor? Did you check the oil and make sure it’s not milky looking, or at a higher level than anticipated, because the antifreeze is leaking into the oil through the head gasket? Feel closely around the plastic bottle that is pressurized to feel for wetness. And look closely at the sides and bottom of the radiator. If still no leak noted, you need to do a pressure test.

I just replaced my two front bearings and hubs on my 2013 SEL. Bought parts at Rock Auto including new Timken sealed bearings, snap rings, axle nuts, and Motorcraft hubs. Bought tools I needed at Amazon. Bought high powered/torque battery impact at Harbor Freight (Hercules brand). Basically did it how this guy did it:

I know this thread is two years old but for those reading it in future, what I found was 110NM or 81 ftlb. Source (pg44): https://cdn.skfmediahub.skf.com/api/public/094dddb2a353170f/pdf_preview_medium/094dddb2a353170f_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

It can be done at home if you have tools and are mechanically inclined, although it’s a good amount of hard work. I just replaced the rear hub/bearings on my ‘13 CMax SEL with 112K miles on it. It is one unit as stated above. You have to buy the correct one (depending on if you have park assist or not as park assist needs to measure forward and back speeds and has a different electrical connection). Rockauto sells various brands including Motorcraft OEM. Basically, jack the car, remove wheel, remove brake caliper, remove caliper bracket, remove rotor, remove hub which is held on by 4 x E14 head bolts (speed sensor electrical connection is on back well hidden and hard to reach), Replace. Rear caliper bracket torque is 70 NM, rear caliper pins is 35 NM, and the hub bolts are 110 Newton Meters. You’ll need 7mm hex socket for the caliper pins, 13 or 14 mm socket (can’t remember) for the caliper bracket, and as stated a E14 socket with various extension bars to reach around the coil spring and get to the hub bolt heads. May as well replace rotors and pads while you’re doing it if they are getting close. Of course, it’s generally much harder than that because things are likely rusted in place. You might need to beat the rotor off with a hammer and therefore you’ll ruin it. You will probably need a torch to heat the hub bolts then add lots of penetrating oil to remove those, and you’ll likely need a slide hammer tool that you attach to the wheel studs to slam the hub off with.

Could be the tranny. What year and model is your CMax and how many miles? Early models (~2013-14) used a suspect bearing in the transmission.

If you are in park (in your case with the gas engine running), is the sound present? If yes, it’s not the transmission per TSB 19-2391.

Your transmission fluid is Motorcraft Mercon LV (low viscosity) ATF and you’ll need 5 quarts for a drain and fill. You can buy the Mercon LV fluid at AutoZone. Your brake fluid is Motorcraft DOT 4 LV high performance brake fluid. See pages 351-353 at the link below and pay attention to the notes 1 & 3 on page 353. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13cmhom3e.pdf

Some evidence to support my suspicion above…. https://www.amazon.com/ransmission-shifter-Bushing-KV6Z7K340A-DG9Z7S004A/dp/B0C1M2VVDN/ref=asc_df_B0C1M2VVDN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6898709519249518604&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007686&hvtargid=pla-2281435178338&psc=1&mcid=470f88dc75493ef89c42e4332094fccf&hvocijid=6898709519249518604-B0C1M2VVDN-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1

The transmission on my 2013 CMax is original. That old part was original. I believe the only thing they change out on this recall is that slightly orangish looking plastic bushing and replace it with a new one (and cover it with a cap to make it last longer). I’m sure when new it should be a whitish cream color (similar to the color of the new protective cap), but over the years fades from oxidation/heat/cold/grime/etc to the off-orangish color it became in that top pic. Ford used a very similar setup on many of its cars from the 20-teens. When that inner bushing breaks you can’t shift out of the gear you are in. Poor design. My son in law was stranded in the middle of the road after backing out of his drive due to that bushing deciding to break when he tried to shift into drive in his Ford Fusion.

Took me a bit of time to get around to getting this done at the dealer. Here is the old one: Here is the new one with its protective cover: This is on a 2013 CMax SEL

I know this is older topic. I just recently drained (~4.4 qts) and refilled (~4.8 qts) my 2013 CMax SEL transmission fluid at 112,000 miles. I purchased 5 Mercon LV qt bottles at AutoZone. I used a gallon/quart pump from harbor freight that screws tight onto these larger mouth quart bottles and pumped/filled through the level plug until full with the car up on my QuickJacks and left front wheel removed. I think you could probably get at the level plug with the steering wheel turned full left and car on ground but I didn’t need to do that. Put the level plug back in and started car up for one minute then shut down and waited five minutes. Then re-loosened the level plug and let some excess fluid drain out until it stopped coming out the level plug. Tightened level plug back up. Put the wheel back on, lowered the QuickJacks, and went for a test drive. Old fluid wasn’t horrible but certainly wasn’t fresh either. Didn’t notice any metal flakes. I even ran a magnet through the old fluid but it was clean when I wiped it off.

I know this is a 4+ yr old topic revival but for those who may read it later… My 2013 CMax SEL has been with my son at college and grad school for about six years and recently I got it back. Decided to change the spark plugs at about 112,000 miles. As above could not find the SP531 version called for in the owner’s manual. Ford dealer said it’s now SP530 iridium for my model (SP531s were in mine from factory once I removed them). Bought the same Motorcraft SP530s at AutoZone, however, as they were ~ $6 cheaper each. And just like Plus3Golfer said for his, my third one from the left was very loose and had blow by on it. I didn’t even need a wrench to remove it. So do as he suggests and check your torque when you change your air filter. I had to be losing some compression on this cylinder. The other three were stuck in there pretty good so I used some Kroil penetrating spray oil to help loosen them up so I wouldn’t strip or damage any threads. As I was removing them I’d go out maybe half turn and in a quarter turn and did this back and forth for a few turns until they felt ready to come out normally. I then cleaned the spark plug holes and cylinder threads carefully with a little brakekleen sprayed onto the big tips of some long wooden Q-tip swabs that I have. Torqued to ~9 ftlbs.

I installed this one the other day because mine was all fuzzy and blurry on my 2013 CMax hybrid. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V5321FZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details In the reviews on that site, you’ll see someone who links to their YouTube video on how to install it. He does a good job describing the process in that video. Basically pop off the plastic rear panel and remove some plugs and a few nuts.