raadsel

There are some cheap antennas on Amazon, as well. I bought this one 4 years ago, after my antenna disappeared, I've had no issues and seems to work as well as the original.

When I've bought updates, I've done it through eBay. Typically you can get the new SD card for about $60, and if you wait a few months it frequently goes down to $40-50.  Doing a search right now, it appears there are some SD cards as low as $45.

As Plus Three Golfer stated, under the hood using the terminals, and possibly the frame for the negative. The other thing is you need to make sure the engine is running, so you'll likely need to push the gas pedal all the way down to keep get (and keep) the engine running.

3 minutes ago, Plus 3 Golfer said:

The master reset should transmit / delete  the key data which links the VIN to the previous owner’s account.  Then, you should be able to add the VIN to your account.  If that doesn’t work, call Ford Customer Service as they should be able to manually do it.

It would help to know the year of the car. If this is a Sync 2/MFT, I don't believe the car "talks" to Ford anymore -- Ford shut down the system that communicated with the old Sync units. As such, it likely will require a call to Ford to be able to create a new owner on the car.

2 hours ago, Plus 3 Golfer said:

Agree, transmission issue had virtually nothing to do poor sales and value.  Ford’s 1) two blunders in getting the EPA numbers right, 2) poor performance of SYNC, and 3) many early CSPs and Recalls requiring many trips to dealer were “3 strikes” against the C-Max which no marketing effort could overcome.  Sales plummeted. Also, see my most after the second FE adjustment.  Although original owners were given compensation for the two FE adjustments, it wasn’t nearly enough to cover loss in resale value.  
 

Had the 47/47/47 original EPA MPGs been correct, (which were corrected twice - 2013 and 2014) to current 42/37/40 numbers - a 15% decline in overall FE savings from original,  I believe the C-Max Hybrid sales would have continued at high levels even with falling gas prices in the early years (FE savings a less important variable in the purchase decision). Looking at the chart below, you can “see” the sharp drop in sales after the corrections.  The other two strikes were mitigated / “fixed” by MY 2014/15.  And,  absent these strikes, the value of used C-Max hybrids would likely be higher now.

 

      

One other issue, that had nothing to do with Ford, was that gas prices tumbled (and have stayed low) around a year after the C-Max were released. With gas prices in some locations down to $1.50/gallon, hybrids in general were not selling, not only the C-Max.

Ford, in their "infinite wisdom," removed the lifetime summary, I believe after the 2014 model year.

I think it may depend on which trim level you have. I know that cars with the power liftgate have a button, it kind of hides behind the shifter. It is the same set of buttons beneath the climate control, where the rear defrost button is. I'm not sure if models without the power liftgate have a trunk release button.

From what I recall, 3.08 is a good upgrade from 3.06, but I've seen no real improvements with 3.10. Instead, 3.10 seems to have more issues, at least on my C-Max; instead I found 3.08 to be the most stable version. I don't know if there is a way for you to still go to 3.08 but, if possible, that is the version I'd install.

21 hours ago, homestead said:

Went looking for the original warranty for 2013 C-max and found this below.

My question , why does the transmission fall under the Hybrid/Electric 8yr/100,000 mile warranty rather than the Powertrain 5yr/60,000 mile?

 

New Vehicle Limited Warranty. We want your Ford C-MAX ownership experience to be the best it can be. Under this warranty, your new vehicle comes with 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper coverage, 5-year/60,000-mile Powertrain Warranty coverage, 5-year/60,000-mile safety restraint coverage, and 5-year/unlimited-mile corrosion (perforation) coverage – all with no deductible. C-MAX unique electric components are covered during the Hybrid/Electric Unique Component Coverage, which lasts for 8 years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first. 

 

Likely because the transmission is not actually a CVT. I won't try to explain how the eCVT works here (there are other explanations and videos on the forum) but it does combine the two different electric motors with the gas engine, using the electric motors to help power the wheels or to charge the battery, depending on what the car and gas engine are doing. Since the electric motors both connect into the CVT, and the CVT is a unique component of the hybrid model drivetrain, it only makes sense that it would be covered under the hybrid warranty.

So a couple of thoughts: my quit on this last episode about 7 days ago after a 23DEG F night. So temp as a factor somehow? Secondly, I replaced my 12V BATT last spring with an Odyssey AGM and do no expect that it is weak. However on the mentions of low 12V sparking the issue, I could see that, I have a 12V adapter in my center console that is the 2.4W that charges my phone on a cradle and headset on a pigtail. Occasionally I do leave that in and 'ON' overnight with nothing charging but the blue LED signifying it's on. I have no idea if I left it on that night that crashed my radio. Temp that night would hurt a Lead Acid battery, but these Oddyseys do drop voltage at extreme temps, but nothing like a lead-acid batt. At this point, 6.5 years and 141K miles I can live with this eccentricity. My only concern is that it becomes more frequent signifying the APIM is on the way out, at that point I will seriously consider the Sync2 to Sync3 'mod'/update. We have cold weather hitting us tomorrow, we shall see...

When the battery is cold the capacity is reduced (until it warms up), as resistance within the battery is higher.

One thing I started realizing, it seems to me I start having the issue with the radio not working when the battery has lost capacity, so when you start having the radio module "quit" and have to pull/replace the fuse, you might look at getting the battery tested and/or replaced.

Just to follow up, the tie rods were replaced as well as the battery, which apparently had a bad cell. 

It is possible it just needs to be reseated -- remove it and reinsert it, while the car is off, and see if that makes a difference. It also could be that the SD card "died" -- the environment in a car (the various hot and cold cycles) can be tough on memory cards.

I'd get the 12 V battery checked first.  Low battery voltage can cause all sorts of issues.  The fact that the car sat two days and wouldn't start and your MFT turns off in minutes indicates a very low state of charge of your 12 V battery.

 

Critical modules like PCM, TCM, ABS can operate at very low voltages.  For example, many ABS monitors run as long as voltage is above 8.3 V and ABS module control voltage threshold is 9.0 V.  Most of the monitors of ICE operations have a minimum threshold voltage of 11.0 V.  Most of HyBrid Power Control monitors can function down to 6.0 V.   So, if voltage is too low, many sensors could be giving incorrect data and monitors may not be running. 

The odd thing about the battery is it was replaced just 18 months ago -- so their could be some type of manufacturing issue but the battery is new enough it should not be failing. Also, while it did die after two days when I was having the audio issue, I've had no issue since (other than turning off quickly) after the car sits for a few days.

Since it sounds like you're on the original tranny, what's your mileage?

Frank, who's quiet at 64.4K

Mileage is 74,000.

Thinking back, it seemed like before I replaced my 12V battery a year and a half ago, it seemed like my car was riding somewhat "rough," in terms of I seemed to feel like the car wasn't riding well over rough patches of pavement. When I replaced the battery, the ride seemed to smooth out.

The two may be completely unrelated, but it has come back much worse now.

I had the two incidents with the MyFordTouch audio not working recently, and one time the battery being completely dead after the car sat unused for two days. Along with that, if I sit in the car with it off, the dashboard is turning off in just a couple of minutes now -- despite the battery being replaced and the system reset (I was getting the full 10 minutes then).

What has me baffled, though, is that over the last few months the car has been riding "rough" again but only some of the time. What typically happens is I'll be on a major surface road, with a speed limit of 40 or 50, take my foot off the gas and the car will feel like a tire is not properly balanced or out of alignment. It feels fine if I'm accelerating, even at higher speeds, and if I push somewhat hard on the brakes.

Of course, it wasn't consistent -- I'd have several trips where the car seemed fine, seemed to run normal. Then I'd have a day or two where it would ride rough. Then it would be fine again. Additionally, as it got a bit worse, I'd notice that as I'd press the brake, the car would mildly jerk towards the right, it was easily controllable but did require turning the steering wheel a bit left.

The last few times, though, it seems like it has now progressed. It seems to be all the time and it seems much rougher. Again, when acceleration you don't feel anything, or when pressing on the brake pedal with more than a light pressure. I'd say that it feels like a tire is just bouncing around, except that I'm not noticing any real difference in handling -- just a shaking like something is "loose" in the front of the car. I'm also noticing a significant loss of fuel economy, down to about 34 mpg on the current tank.

I'm planning on taking the car into my dealer on Monday (or even having Ford come pick up the car) but was wondering if anyone had seen anything similar with a C-Max. I'm a bit worried they'll try fixing symptoms -- balancing the tires and doing an alignment but (and I could be wrong) it doesn't seem like those are the issues. I'm also curious if this is one of the symptoms of a transmission issue -- at least one idea I've had, since it happens when I take my foot off the gas, is if it might be tied to the regenerative braking system, which is why with more moderate brake pressure (as the brakes engage) the shaking appears to go away. 

Any thoughts or experiences that are similar?

Curiously, when we removed SYNC/Radio fuses to attempt a reboot, there was no change. The SYNC/Radio still wasn't functioning.

I had it happen again this week, where the radio and voice commands quit working. I pulled fuse 79 (the one blue fuse closest to the passenger door, about 3 up from the bottom), started the car until the sound system "failed," then turned the car off and reinserted the fuse. The sound system has been working fine again. This post suggest that if pulling fuse 79 does not work, you need to pull Fuse 22 from the rear junction box.

We drive short trips most of the time <5 miles.  In 6.5 years never had a dead battery.  I think the problem is some cars the current draw continues after shutdown.

Difficult problem to troubleshoot.

We also listen to the radio after shutdown too.

Add me to this list, most of my trips are quite short and, with high speed limits on the roads I drive, short both in length and time, as well as often infrequent. In my case, this is the first time I've had a dead battery in over 4 years-- and I even replaced a battery a year ago because I knew it was ready to start causing power issues. I had the CSP done a couple of years ago. In fact, all my radio issues started when the dealer installed a Sync software update (v3.10, I believe) about a year ago.

If he drives it only occasionally between Denton, Dallas, Fort Worth, he won't put much charge in the battery.  For example, below is a graph of 50 minutes of driving my C-Max and recording charging current, voltage, and SOC.  Here's my more detailed post on the Energi forum.  About 1.45 Ah of charge was added to the battery.  Because the charging current is only about 0.88 after 50 minutes and will continue to drop, very little Ah will be added after 49 minutes.  From previous recordings, my guess is that after another one hour of driving, one might see another 0.8 Ah added.  

 

If the car has a 50 mA sleep current draw, for every day the car is not driven, the battery will lose 1.2 Ah of charge + normal self-discharge.  So, one can see that it's likely that over several months of limited driving, the battery could lose most of it's charge.  Normal self discharge according to Battery University is 5% per month.  But at 80 F another source says 4% per week. 

 

One other point, the C-Max battery capacity is about 43 Ah when new.  The fact that it's 21 months old means it's lost some capacity and cannot be charged to 43 Ah.  So, this lost capacity coupled with the above will yield a "dead" battery sooner as the battery ages.

  

12 V Battery.JPG

I'm not sure I can agree with this. From what I see, your graph and testing was done with a full battery -- and of course a mostly full battery is not going to require much charge. Starting the C-Max requires very little power, as all it is doing is starting the computers; the engine is started by the hybrid battery and that is where most power for conventional 12V batteries is used. And the drain on the 12V battery when the car is running is quite low as you are only running things like the lights, battery, and fans for the climate system -- the A/C is again powered by the hybrid battery; so there is typically little reason, with a healthy battery, for the 12V battery to charge much over a typical driving session. Additionally, with the 12V battery being charged by the hybrid battery, it can charge that battery relatively quickly -- then the engine will just run more (or a bit harder) to bring the hybrid battery levels back up.

The key to me here is the fact the radio wasn't working. I had a similar problem just a few days ago, where my radio quit working and one day I go out and find the 12V battery had zero charge. Once we jumped the car, it started right up -- again, the 12V requires very little power to start the car so it needs little power to jump (the 12V battery really doesn't need to recharge before jump starting the car). In my case we had several days of rain or I would have gone out and pulled the entertainment system fuse to "reboot" the radio -- and that would have likely corrected the parasitic drain that killed my 12V battery. My battery is maybe one year old, temps at the time the battery completely drained were in the 70s to low 80s with cloud cover.

The 2013 onward Fusion is pretty much exactly the same as the C-Max - same weight, same engine, same battery, same transmission. The only difference is a smaller cross-section and lower coefficient of drag. So any difference you're feeling in performance is purely psycosomatic. 

I can't agree with this. They did something different, and likely it is in software, with the Fusion Hybrid. When I bought the C-Max, I tested the Fusion and it did not have the same power as the C-Maxes I drove.Additionally, looking up 0-60 times, it shows the 2013 Fusion Hybrid as having an 8.9 sec 0-60 -- and test of later model Fusion Hybrids are also 8.5 seconds are higher. By contrast, the C-Max 0-60 times have been around 7.9 seconds. I'm not sure what Ford did -- particularly since they share the same powertrain -- but there is a clear difference in acceleration between the Fusion Hybrid and C-Max.

Additionally, there is a physical key inside the key fob -- you can use that to unlock the driver's door if the key fob quits working.

I spoke to different professionals and came to the conclusion that it is best to buy branded gas such as Chevron for the added Techron. Texaco is also adding in Techron on all grades. Other brands are adding in their competing injector cleaners. I was instructed that paying that extra .15 cents US to each gallon will keep your injectors clean such that you don't need to add injector cleaner every so often. On the math side, as well as convenience side the formula has worked well for me. I only buy Chevron for the Techron or Shell with their competing cleaner added, Exxon or Texaco. So far, at 128K miles I've got nothing but smooth running. I think in all these years I've added in one can of Seafoam that I had laying around for one of my Waverunners, but that was years ago.

Personally, I try to go to Top Tier gas stations. Top Tier is an industry detergent gasoline standard; for example, Chevron is a Top Tier brand. In fact, most major gasoline brands are Top Tier and many of the major auto manufacturers recommend Top Tier gasoline, including Ford. Additionally, Top Tier brands must have the detergent in all octane grades -- you aren't getting a better detergent in Premium fuel than you get from Regular 87 Octane gasoline. To the best of my knowledge, there isn't a huge amount of difference in the detergent effectiveness of any of the Top Tier gasoline brands; all will do a good job of keeping your engine "clean." You can find a list of brands that support Top Tier on their website. Personally, I typically buy my gas from Costco both because it is inexpensive, but also because they sell Top Tier gasoline.

I had to replace one about 50K due to a sidewall puncture (looked kind of like someone stuck a pocket knife into the tire). I replaced the other 3 about 60K and I possibly could have got another couple of thousand miles out of them.

Yesterday I had a troubling sequence of events.  I got back to my car after a quick errand, and the screen just stayed black.  No controls did anything.  The car was fine otherwise.  I poked the power button at random intervals while driving.

 

Eventually it lit up with the big SYNC lettering and a note about updating or some such, and in a couple of seconds, my bluetooth audio started playing.  The screen displayed SYNC for what seemed like several minutes, then displayed the "normal" screen.  The Audio never updated the track information; it displayed Unknown until the next podcast started playing.

 

Disconcerting, but ultimately no trouble.

I've had that happen before, it is very annoying. Last Friday I had my radio quit, and had to pull the fuse to "reboot" the radio. Unfortunately, this likely won't be the last issue you'll have with Sync.

I have gotten all my NAV cards on eBay and I have had the A10 card for 2 months with no problems till now.  Maybe the problem is with the GPS. I don't know what it means to "see the touchscreen".

 

Paul

What it means is to check the MyFordTouch screen. I think I'd try putting your last Navigation SD card in, see if it has the same error. It is possible that the SD card is having errors, which is causing the navigation issue.