jestevens

I'm sorry I don't have access to the tech specs, I hope a tech can help you but with any luck a water pump should still be the same diagnosis as usual anyway.

My 2013 is still good at 137K but I've changed driving styles to highway now, so I guess we'll see..

Based on some google searching these codes sound like water pump issues? Can you check the fuse, wire and connections to the water pump?

We have an escape hybrid at work. It seems like a fine vehicle, fairly quiet .. I don't know if it still uses the HF35 or not but the shifting is non existent so it must be SOME sort of CVT. Even so my next car is likely to a Toyota hybrid, Bolt or VW ID Buzz (if I win the lottery).

One time I had a leaf stuck in the lower grill and it made a really weird, concerning noise. One time I thought it was a wheel bearing ended up being bad tire. Another post on here had the TSB instructions for diagnosing HF35 replacement including very particular info about when the transmission makes noise and when it doesn't.

I just had to pull my fuse for the amp going out again last week, and once last month. I'm not sure there's every any rationale.

Hmmm. I would have thought maybe something with transmission but if the car is expecting to be able to switch to HV or regen and all the sudden there is a fault then maybe it makes sense.

Hybrids work best with low rolling resistance tires -- although a few of the ones I've bought over the years seem to start at 7/10" tread so you're paying a lot and getting less tire? That formulation makes it easy to get up to speed and then be able to coast around town. If the tires are too sticky then you aren't going to be able to coast on electric only and save gas. I've used Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max tires, Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 Plus and Pirelli Cinturato P7 I would recommend the Goodyears again -- or the Ecopia tire if you can find them (although they seemed noisier). Currently I am using the plain Goodyear Assurance tires WITHOUT the fuel max -- which ARE stickier than usual, and do cause the car's drivetrain to shudder with sudden stops .. That's what the dealership had in stock that day and I thought maybe they would eventually wear down to 7/10 anyway. There is a slight hit on MPG.

It's normal for the car to get less mileage the more you use the heater or the colder it gets. The hybrid battery pack is much smaller than the Energi pack. It definitely seems like a mistake to me, I would ask to undo the deal or ask the battery place if they would consider doing a swap at a discount. I am surprised you can get 10mi out of the pack though because the hybrid pack is significantly smaller capacity. Perhaps the battery you have is somehow a blend of the two parts. Still doesn't seem to be programmed to match the car..

Yeah, that's not normal -- I would take it to the dealer to diagnose sooner rather than later before you have a serious problem on the road. If it is expecting power to be there from the hybrid system and it's been disabled, either because of the HV battery or transmission malfunction ..

I mean, bad brake switch input or a wonky speed sensor could do this probably .. the car would rather shut down than cause a collision. Do you hear any mechanical clunking when you step on brakes? The engine stops and starts normally? Just guesses without a code scan.

Are you using 220/240V charger? Those sound like 120V charging rates. Bear in mind that the EV range on the Energi was never designed to get anywhere near your Bolt -- it's like 15-20mi at the max when it was new. In 2013 that was a novelty, especially for Ford. When the battery dies the gas engine will kick in. I think the only real viable EVs back then were like Tesla and the Nissan Leaf? The regular hybrid battery pack only has like 2mi range at the most? It really was designed to just level out the RPM on the engine and enable better fuel economy, not replace the gas engine. The Energi pack is double that I think, but still not like a modern EV. Lithium ion packs like the one in the C-MAX -are- the state of the art as far as I know. At the time these cars were developed Toyota was still using NiMH packs ..it's just that modern EV have a lot more cells and are designed to "be" EVs ... they aren't trying to cram extra things into a traditional gas powered car design. The Bolt would be one of a handful of pure EVs I am looking at because it has excellent range. The others might be the Ioniq and I think I like the ID Buzz although I doubt I want to be an early adopter. Ford only has the way too expensive $120K F-150 and the "SportsCUV" for $60K .. both of which I am really not interested in. The viable market for EV seems to be a small commuter car you can charge at home, manufacturers don't seem interested in that segment.

Here is a video that may help...

The hybrid version does get cabin heat from the engine ... It should run the engine even if you aren't driving if there is large demand for heat in the cabin when it's cold out. You'd think a stuck thermostat or something like that would set a code. Maybe heater core is plugged or air in radiator? I'm by no means a mechanical genius.

I've only heard of like one battery pack that has seriously failed so far. . Having said that if the car is 10 years old and has say 150k mi on it you might need to expect to spend at least $5k within the next 5 years to replace the pack. There are some Prius cars with 10+ years and at least 200k mi that failing but those packs are NiMH .. the C-MAX was one of the first hybrids to use lithium ion packs so it's still a bit of a guess as to how long they will last. Batteries kept in the same environment as humans will last longer. Battery sitting outside in the AZ sun or used as a taxi, not so much ..