notquitesane

I only boosted one person so far. It was a British guy in a campground with a late 70's Ford Econoline based motorhome. He was surprised to see a C-MAX in Canada and was confused why it wasn't making noise when I pulled up. He waited for almost an hour for the campground to send someone boost him. It was almost checkout time and he saw me and asked for some help. My booster pack was dead at the time and I always carry booster cables in the back of my car, so I gave it a go. Used the terminals under the hood. Got him going pretty quick. The gan engine kicked in when we hooked up the cables. I know everything is pretty electronic in the cars now but I turned everything off except the HVAC blower fan. So yes it can be done with the terminals under the hood. It's not something I do often, but this guy was in need.

I've found an LED headlight bulb that works perfectly with a C-MAX and doesn't change the beam pattern and is completely plug and play. It's from Diode Dynamics, the SL1 H11 LED bulb. I've installed it with the optional anti-flicker modules since our cars low beams are pulsed. The anti-flicker modules are attached in-line. The led driver and anti-flicker module fit inside the headlight and can operate with the dust cap on. I'm pretty happy with them.

I don't like using Auto in the winter. It heats the car's interior up just fine, but after it gets to temperature, the fan speed decreases and allows the windows to fog up. I usually manually control it to keep the windows clear.

Thanks for this info. I purchased the MOOG stabilizer end links and installed them tonight. No more clunking when going over little bumps at low speed.

I do use it when I remember I have it! It always has worked well. If you think it's going to hit, you can grab the steering wheel and it'll cancel automatically. I'm amazed at how tight of a parking spot it can wiggle itself into. It just makes it really hard to get out of that tight space after!

Don't use the clear bulb, get an amber one. If you install a clear bulb, the turn signal will flash white instead of amber.

There is one bulb for the turn signal / parking light. It's an optical illusion that makes it seem like there are two bulbs. The second bulb is a reflection of the real one on the shiny lens of the turn signal housing. The bulb for the front turn signal light is a 3157A bulb. This has two filaments in it, one for dim mode, one for bright mode. One filament has burned while the other has not. This is why the bulb lights up with the headlights but doesn't light get brighter for the turn signal. Replace the 3157A bulb! The other small bulb circled in the diagram is for the triangle shaped sidemarker. It only comes on with the headlights. A quick edit, it could be a 3457A bulb, same shape, just rated at a slightly higher wattage and brighter. I can't tell because the bulb specification sheet in my car's manual is horribly wrong.

Well everything went back to working. I haven't washed my car or anything. Hopefully it will stay working...

Yes, that was the first thing I did was clean the sensors.

I have the parking sensors and they are wonderful when they work. Over the past couple weeks, the parking sensor on/off button will intermittently indicate OFF and won't turn on. Now it will immediately turn off as soon as I shift out of park into reverse. I've gone behind the car with the ignition on, car not running and in reverse. I can hear each of the 3 sensors tick, but only if I press my finger against them. Has anyone had this happen and get it fixed? If it is one of the sensors, I do believe the rear bumper cover has to come off, as I could not see the sensors from under the car. I've also found the wiring harness the sensors are connected to, with a connector right before it goes inside the body of the car. I'll pop that open and see if there is any contamination or anything like that. No warranty left so I'd like to see if I can fix this myself before having to go to the dealer. Anyone have any ideas?

Ford's evil decorative lug nut caps... I've replaced mine with McGard lug nuts. After getting my tires rotated every 8,000 km by different dealers, and another tire outfit changing my tires, my lug nut caps were pretty beat up. Was the same with my old 2008 Ford Fusion. I couldn't fit a socket on to re-torque the lug nuts. In order to replace them, I used a deep socket and a rubber mallet to smack the socket on enough to allow me to loosen the lug nut one at a time. I then installed the new lug nut and torqued to spec. My arms were sore after replacing them all! But I'll never have to go through that again! Whenever it comes time to replace the CMAX, the first thing I'll do to the new car is to replace the lug nuts with solid ones to save me some grief down the road...

I have about 76,000 kms on mine, averaging 5.8L / 100 km. I think that converts to 40.5 mpg. Going to get the windshield replaced before winter, along with new tires. I won't be able to make it through a winter with the tread I have left.

A bit of an update. Those JDM Astar 144 LED bulbs I posted above aren't very good. The dim mode is too bright. When the winter came and I was driving with my headlights on all the time, the leds started to burn out in a hurry. I ordered chinese copies on amazon, (BYOPTO is the brand) taken them apart and modified them so the dim mode is dimmer. So far so good. The JDM Astar ones cannot be taken apart to be modified. The modification process replaces a resistor inline with the wire that connects with the parking light wire. You replace the resistor with one of a greater resistance. I experimented and settled on using a 68 ohm 1/2 W resistor. It's a pain to get apart and a pain to put back together, using lots of epoxy. If you're handy with electronics and soldering, it could be a fun project. Another way of doing it would be to place the resistor in the wiring harness. The resistance value would be different as you are not removing the one present in the bulb. A bit of experimentation would be required. The rear turn signals, i've installed these. https://tinyurl.com/ydg8cpvm They are insanely bright, I hope they last. They also do not need resistors to prevent hyperflashing. They draw 18W and are a direct replacement bulb. No hyperflashing for these. I think I'm done. The fog lights and headlights are halogen, but i'm ok with that.

That's too bad. I've never experienced what SYNC services was because it was never offered in Canada. Guess it never will now.

Rain-X Latitude also fits because it supports the I&L wiper arms that our cars use for the front wipers.

Bosch Icon 28AOE and 24OE fit nicely.

Because of the early problems I almost didn't buy my 2015 C-MAX, but I'm sure glad I did. When I looked over the car at an auto show, nobody came near the car, I was free to sit in it and look it over for as long as I wanted. People were more interested in the newly redesigned F150 that was on display. When I searched for a C-MAX on a dealers lot, it was hard to find one. They had to search 1,000 km away to find a model with the colour and package I wanted. When I picked up my car from the dealership, a mechanic came up to me and asked how I knew about the car as he'd never seen one before. Every once in a while I feel a vibration when switching to electric mode, usually when the weather is cold out. Most of the time it is silky smooth. When I have a passenger in the car they usually can't tell if the gas engine is running or not. With regards to how powerful the car is on the highway, I was massively impressed with how my car performed on a drive through the Rocky Mountains. Driving through the Coquihalla Highway in British Columbia up in Canada, I set the cruise to 120 kph (75 mph) and the car maintained that speed throughout the pass. Sure it was screaming plenty but the highway gets to an 8% grade at one point during the climb. I also got fantastic fuel economy through the mountains, much better than driving on a flat highway. edited cruise control speed.

I just did mine. I live in a colder climate and noticed that the windows were not clearing as fast, the cabin wouldn't warm up very fast and the windows would fog really easily if you tried to breathe. It wasn't like this when I first got the car. After reading the forums, it dawned on me that there is a cabin filter. I have prepaid maintenance so I assumed the dealer had been changing it. I seem to forget the dealer I used to go to is pretty sketchy. Thankfully I don't go to them anymore. So rather than wait for my next maintenance cycle, I decided to replace the filter right away. We will have more cold weather, winter is far from over in Canada, so more airflow and faster cabin heating times are important. I have just shy of 60,000 km and the filter was filthy. Shoehorned the new one in there. T15 bit fit perfectly. Immediately I could feel more air coming out of the vents. I'm amazed at how much that dirty filter was restricting airflow. I think I'll make this a yearly routine right before the cold temps hit. And I hope that the 2nd time around I won't have any bruised knuckles. Anyone know the best place to pick up an air filter? In Canada, it's $40 for a Motorcraft filter from the dealer, $48 for a Napa gold filter from Napa and $33 for a Fram filter from Canadian Tire. The Fram filter doesn't fit very well and I won't purchase it next time.

Ford approved the seat cover replacement. It's in now getting that done. It was a cool -25C (-13F) during the walk to work. brrr... The dealer also requested warranty replacement of the drivers side door inside panel due to an unexplainable dent on the top by the window... I said "Oh that... that's where I put my elbow while driving..." They got approval to do that too... gotta teach myself not to put my elbow up there now!

Just noticed mine is doing this. Not quite 2 years old and 56,000 km on it so far. I have an appointment with the dealer on Thursday for them to look at the issue. It's been a horrible cold winter so far and I've been using the seat heaters all the time.

I had the a/c evap freeze up on me for the first time this year. I noticed that when the climate control system was set to auto, it started acting differently. The blower motor started to stay on a fairly low speed while the inside of the car kept getting warmer. On the way to a museum in Wetaskiwin, no air was coming out of the vents despite the blower making a lot of noise. After we were done with the museum, everything worked like normal. After some searching I stumbled upon this thread. Last week I was leaving for a trip so I had no time to take the car in for the dealer to look at this issue but I was able to pick up the temp sensor. It was cheap, easy to replace. All the weird issues with the climate control system set to auto are gone. Everything works the way it did when I bought the car 1.5 years ago. Let's hope that was the issue.

Just providing a bit of an update. I've swapped out my front signal lights with JDM Astar 144 LED bulbs. It's the first type of led bulb that seemed to fill the reflector properly. Cost wasn't too expensive either, can be found on eBay. Here's a link to the manufacturer's site. https://www.jdmastar.com/shop_by_bulb_size/3156-3157-4157/1200-lumens-144-ex-smd-3156-3157-led-bulbs.html The left is the JDM Astar 144 LED bulb, to the right is the 39 LED bulb that I used to run as my front turn signals. I actually re purposed the bulb on the right. I removed the 3157 bulb base and installed it on a 7443 base and have been using it as a rear turn signal. It fills the reflector nicely but still isn't brighter than an incandescent. I've found the longest bulb you can install in the rear turn signal is about 60mm, or 2.35". I wish I could use another one of those jdm astar 144 led bulbs, but it's 2.5" long. It won't fit.

Mine was just a simple nail in the tread. I didn't pull over fast enough after the tired rapidly deflated, I damaged the sidewall of my tire. The car was fixed today, but the rental cost $130, the new tire cost $325 including labour. In total, it was a $450 lesson. I will be getting myself a spare to "spare" myself of any future expensive lessons...

I will have to seriously look into all of the solutions brought up in this thread for a spare tire. 2 minutes had passed between the time the low tire pressure warning message came on and when I was able to pull over. The tire was completely flat and the hole in it was big enough that the tire would not hold air for more than a minute. I had to get my car towed to the dealership and they won't be able to fix it till Monday. If I had a spare, then this wouldn't have had to get it towed and wouldn't have to rent a horrible 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage... I miss my C-MAX!

After suggesting someone could do this, I got thinking that I want to! I purchased additional bulb holders for the inner tail lights, drilled holes, bent some wire, formed a 2nd set of contacts in the 1157 socket and held everything together will jb weld. So the next step is to run a wire down from the center brake light to connect to my new contact. That should make it so the inner tail lights light up when you stomp on the brake while still functioning at tail lights when you turn the head lights on.