vonoretn

They should last 10 years.  If they are 315 HZ Sensors, you can buy 4 of them for $40 on Amazon.  A typical honest tire shop will charge $15 per wheel to remove the tire, install the sensor and replace the tire.  Make some phone calls, get the prices.  My C-Max is a 2015, and the picture above is the wrong TPMS for my car.  Mine has the brass tip and thread.  Make sure they mark the tire rotational position, so you get your same tire balance effect when he's done, unless you want to pay extra to have them balanced too.

And more data:

Immediately after driving for 3 hours on the highway yesterday, I checked the 12 volt battery voltage.  It read 12.01 volts, with everything off on the car..   I hooked up my charger, and it read 12.1 volts, with a % charge level of 54%.  While charging, the battery level was at 13.2.  After 20 minutes it was reading 74% charge, but if I disconnected the charger then reconnected it, it read 100%.   The voltage level at this point disconnected read 12.9.  

I am calculating that my initial new battery amp hour rating was 54, (cold cranking amps/7.25)  which is not exact but a rough estimate since there is no mathematical relationship between CCA and Amp Hours.  But I think now, it's amp hour rating may be only 10, or some low number. But since it never has the  burden of starting the engine, it can function at that lower amp hour rating for some time, as long it doesn't drain to below about 10.5 volts (a guess).  A week ago I did check the fluid level in the battery, and none of the plates were exposed.  I added a few ounces of distilled water to bring the level up to the bottom of the black tubes at each cell.  I know better than to overfill a battery. 

On 2/27/2021 at 9:21 AM, plus 3 golfer said:

So what size charger do you have? If your battery has 0% SOC <= 10.5 V by definition (8.5V) and if you charged for one hour and SOC = 100% as you say, then the charger had to put out 43 A for one hour.  100% SOC = 43 Ah for the BXT67R Motorcraft battery.  Because your battery is around 5 years old (2015 MY?), it’s maximum capacity will be less than 43 Ah.  You got 12.1 V after allowing surface charge to drain which is a maximum SOC of around 30% +- maybe 10% depending on load on battery when you checked voltage.  This would mean that if you charged for one hour you likely added between 8 - 16 Ah of capacity (8-16 A charger) to your battery.  IMO, this is normal for a 5 year old battery. See attached discharge curve.  C = 43 Ah, so the C /20 discharge curve is likely the one to use when measuring battery voltage.  Just opening doors activates modules and puts load on battery.

 

Driving the C-Max adds little to the SOC of the battery.  In 25 minutes of driving you will likely add less than 2 Ah and more than likely around 1 Ah. So, best case is you might have increased SOC around 5%.  Normal car off battery drain should be less than 50 mA.  So if car is off for four days,  normal max. drain would be around (96 h x 0.050 A) = 4.8 Ah (should be less unless there is a parasitic drain).  I believe around 30 mA would be typical.  Thus, the four day Ah drain would be around 3 Ah.  This 3Ah drain is still greater than the charge put back in 25 minutes of driving.

My charger is a Schumacher SC-8020A, which means 80 amp start but only 20 amp max quick charge.  More data, after 3 days of not driving the battery reads 11.7 volts. According to my charger, the % charge was 38%.   After 1.5 hours of charging it read 100% .  The voltage level reads 13.3.   Do you know at what voltage the car won't start?  We know it won't at 8.5, but I'm guessing it will down into the 10s.   I have heard that the computer, injectors, and ignition need at least 8 volts to operate.  Of course once started, no problem.   I don't think I would ever need the 80 amp start mode, because as soon as I hook up my charger the battery voltage is into the 13's and it will start.  The battery is the original battery so I assume it is the BXT67R.

Good job Fbov, 8 years on your 12 volt battery.  I took the car to the dealer today, and they gave it all their tests, and said it was fine.  Well of course it was fine, it had just been charged for 25 minutes driving to the dealer, and the C-max charge voltage is 14.5 volts.  I don't think they did an engine off battery drain test however, because it would probably only take 100 ma or so, to drain the voltage down to 8.5 volts over 4 days.  But the dealer cost for a new battery is $144, so I decided to just keep an eye on it, if the voltage goes under 12, I will charge it ahead of time before going anywhere.  The dealer in Sweetwater Tn. charged me nothing for their battery test. 

At 85000 miles now, the car sat in our garage 4 days and wouldn't start.  The 12 volt battery read 8.5 volts.  I charged the 12 volt battery, my charger has voltage and % charged readings.  It took a hour to charge it to 100%  Vehicle started, drove it, restarted twice, once after gasing it and once after 30 minute in grocery.  I located the battery in the back of the car and gave it my 100 amp voltage drop test.  It dropped to 10.3 volts.  That would be my lower limit for a normal car, but this battery doesn't have to do much,  like start the car, since that's done by the high voltage battery.  Anyway, it keeps losing % charge and the voltage drops from like 12.8 to 12.1 just sitting there.  And the percent charge drops to 50% just sitting there.  Yes it could be the battery, but how do I know there is not something draining it, like an improper load of some type?   No engine warning lights. 

My 2010 Ford Fusion hybrid made it to 112K miles before I had to get a new 12 volt battery. 

Thanks for how to turn off the annoying warning ! ?   I guess I've been lucky.  I got a new set of original equipment Michelin tires at the dealer, at 71K miles, $836, never had any flats or leaks before or since.  Mostly highway driving.  But I have plugged a lot of puncture failures on other peoples cars, and I will add the hand pump per the forum recommendation above.  Plus a can of rubber cement that will last for years, and pliers to pull out a nail.  And a jack.   If you think about it, a hand pump is probably more efficient than a tiny 12 volt compressor. 

All of the sudden, with the third CR2032 battery I tried, it started working to lock and unlock the doors with Fob 1.  I did not know about the passive connection, which clarifies that my issue must be totally with the batteries and battery contacts.   Thanks.

After 5 years, My FOB 1 would not work at all.  I put in a new battery, and when I hold the fob next to the steering wheel, I can start the car.   But it will not lock or unlock the doors.  Any suggestions?  The new battery is rated at 3 volts and reads 3.2 volts on a volt meter.  The old one read 2.7 volts. 

The original FOB2 still works fine.  Any suggestions?

My wife and I each have I phones, and we can load both phones for taking and making calls.  But we cannot figure out how to switch from one iPhone music to the other, using Bluetooth.  We have tried everything, the C-Max seems only capable of handling one set of iPhone Music libraries.   If we remove one of the iphones completely from the car, we can get either library, but doing that on a road trip is way to much work, and must be done while the car is stopped.  Any help is appreciated.

I have to update this topic, I am now solidly getting over 40 mpg.  My last fill up was 47.4 mpg at just over 30,000 miles.  It just gets better and better, even with a few full throttle blasts in traffic, and going between 70 and 73 mph on the highway.  It definitely likes winding and even hilly roads, where the speeds are like in the 50-60 mph.  Hills don't bother it, it seems to average them out.  I am very pleased with the car.  Too bad 2018 is the last year for it in the USA.  

Thank you, that worked.

I just had an oil change at the Ford dealer, he should have reset the oil change warning light, but he probably couldn't figure it out either.  I have looked in the owners manual, and I can't find exactly how to do it there.  Please advise if you know.  

The first 5,000 miles don't really mean much and if it's wintery where you are it's even worse. I bought mine on Halloween 2014 and by April I was down to 32.2 mpg, right now I'm at 42.6 mpg, be patient.

You are right, it has gotten better.

http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/vonoretn/C-Max/20000%20mile%20mpg%20status_zpsma2gsmyh.jpg

The mileage is getting better.  I can now get 40 mpg on the highway at 70 mph, but very tailwind sensitive.  Since most of my driving is not highway, my overall average based 100% on fileup data has just crossed over 40 mpg.  I am satisfied with the mileage now.  

The mileage is still not Good.  See:

http://s911.photobucket.com/user/vonoretn/library/C-Max

Everything above 40 mpg is around town, suburban, everything below 40 is on the highway, on a trip, 70 mph plus.   

Increasing the tire pressure also helps with the MPG but bottom line, the faster u go, the lesser the MPG. Also, I presume you are using eco-cruise - that does a pretty good job for a relaxing ride. However, if you like to squeeze the extra MPG, you need to change your driving technique to Pulse & Glide, also be smart about the turning the cruise on & off, since if you see an decline, come off the ICE and use the EV.

 

Even with eco-cruise, those numbers are about what I get in my 13 SEL. It use to be better till the 13b07 update, we traded the 66 MPH EV cap to 85 MPH now but back then, we use to run the "ICE high MPG" where you could go sick 45-55MPG on ICE with the high battery by throttling back the pedal..ah those were the days :)

 

:welcome:  to the forum vonoretn, by the way :)

 

ps i think the consensus for high speed fwy, the cmax sucks, be better off with a diesel but for city-its a KILLER. But u trade mpg for comfort & tech, better than my :pimp: Prii....don't let nick see this..

Thanks for the welcome.  I have the tire pressure at 38 psi, which is what is recommended.  It was about 35 psi from the dealer.  What do you recommend?  I guess you could go as high as 45 or so.   I just gave it a wax job today, it is really slippery now, maybe that will help.   I don't quite follow what you did pre 13b07, but I assume it would not apply to my 2015 C-Max.

That sounds about right for MPG at those speeds. The C-Max is much less aerodynamic than your 2010 FFH. You're right in line with the EPA highway estimate for your C-Max.

How is that Focus electric working out?  Is it a good local commuter?  Did you see Chevy now has a "Bolt", that claims a 200 mile range?  

Make yourself some Grill Covers to make back 2-4mpg caused from outside temps dropping.  CMAX is affected by lower temps more than 2010 Fusion.  If you are ever down in the Atlanta area drop by and I can show you how to improve your mpg's. :)  Also check out the Driving Tips in the forum.

 

Paul

Thanks for the offer Paul, I'll do that if I am on my way south.  Or send me a message if you are headed north.  We aren't too far off of I-75.  I'm going to check out the driving tips now.

Welcome to my club.

Hopefully a few more thousand miles will get you to  <60 mph mid 40's and 70+ high 30's

.

We finally made it to the low 's 40's below 60 after 13b07 (4 mpg gain), a new body control module AND ALL software reinstalled (another 4 mpg gain).

But we still after 50k miles get low 30s at 70+ mph. We've had a couple of 70+ mph 37mpg tanks under ideal conditions (no ac, no head wind, downhill from CO to TX).

I assume 13b07 was an engine computer campaign fix?  What did the body control module do?  Being retired, I often have the opportunity to drive at 65 mph on the highway, and doing so usually yields 41-42 mpg on the 2010 Fusion Hybrid.  I can usually get 40 mpg at 69, but it drops below 40 mpg at 70 mph and higher (flat, no prevailing wind).  A recent 5200 mile trip to Montana from Knoxville, Tn. resulted in an average mpg of 40.7 based on complete fill-up data.  That's what I'm used to, and I was hoping to not have to compromise on mpg.  One major factor is that my wife strongly prefers the comfort of the C-Max seats to the lower, less padded, Fusion seats.  Plus she loves the auto, rear tailgate door, and the key-less entry/start.  

I'm still toying with the idea of keeping the 2010 FFH as a second car since it's in great condition and only worth about $8K.   It has been incredibly reliable, less than $100 on non-maintenance repairs at 124K miles.  I'm glad I didn't pay $1800 for the extended warranty.  The original brake pads are still like new.

I just got a new 2015 C-Max, and the mileage is terrible.  See data here.

 http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/vonoretn/C-Max/mpg-miles_zps6qrmfnzz.jpg

I can get 42 if I stay under 60 mph, but at 70 mph plus, on the highway it drops into the low to mid 30's.  Something must be wrong with this C-Max.  I also have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 124K miles and 6 years on it, and it consistently gets between 38 and 42 mpg. 

Just picked up our 2015 brand new C-Max SEL with the 302a accessory package.  We are looking forward to driving it to Austin, Tuesday. That will be about a 2300 mile round trip.  I will probably be looking on this site for info and making some comments on several topics.