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toecutter3

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Posts posted by toecutter3

  1. Well in the unfortunate event the upgrade file is corrupt or power is cut/flash drive pulled before the update completes. I actually had a corrupted first part of the upgrade and lost Sync voice control for awhile until I retried that part of the upgrade. So it is pretty resilient/redundant in the upgrade process, but just saying, the worst could happen...

    Fair enough, I did it with full knowledge that it could screw things up.  However, I believe that even the worst screw up could be fixed by reverting back to SYNC 1.0.

  2. Just bought a second C-Max, a 2016 SE.  My first one a 2013 SEL has 100K, my Honda CRV about 150K, so it was time for a new car. I'm going to hand down the old one to my teenage girls. I was looking at other hybrids but after test driving decided I wouldn't be happy with their acceleration or price.  I found the new 2016 SE for 17K, about 8K off the retail. No bells and whistles but it will do the trick.

     

    Unfortunately, after getting it home I learned I need to upgrade Sync 3 to version 2.2 and upgrade the USB ports in order to use Apple CarPlay.  I found the Sync 3 upgrade on some other forums ... going to give it a try.  I'll probably have the dealer install the new USB ports.  Must be an upgrade from USB 2 to 3.  

     

    Later ...

     

    Well, the Sync upgrade worked great.  I'm Now on Sync 3 version 2.2.  I see that Android Auto is now available but Carplay still doesn't activate.  I must need the new USB port.  I'll reach out to the dealership early next week.

     

    I've noticed that the 2016 C-Max now has an ECO button and mode.  I'll need to read up on that.

    Where did you get the SYNC upgrade?  I am still waiting for over the air upgrade, and my Ford dealer claims that they don't have the upgrade.  Maybe I'll call Ford and try to find out.  

  3. I have done some sleuthing.  

    1.  Fob battery.  It is good.  I can activate the locks, or deactivate the alarm from a substantial distance.

    2.  Both fobs behave the same.

    3.  The "no key detected" happens less when I pause before opening the door, and if I approach from the front of the car.  LESS!

    4.  When it happens it doesn't matter if I lock the door with the touch pad on the handle or if I use the fob.

     

    I can live with it, I just have to walk away from the car slowly.  When it is time for service, I will have them look at it.  

  4. Brand New C Max Hybrid, 2016.  302a package, type 1 intelligent access key.  Occasionally when I get in the car, the door unlocks to let me in, but on the instrument panel I get the message "No key detected" however, the car still starts right up.  Additionally, sometimes when I lock the door, either by touching the sensor on the door handle or by using the key fob, about 1 minute later the horn starts beeping and the lights flash.  If I press unlock, and then lock again, the alarm ceases, and it doesn't happen again.  

    What?  What am I doing wrong?  I have checked the doors to see they are closed.  This doesn't happen every time.  Any suggestions?

  5. Here is a different way to think about speed and the time it takes to get to work.  

    First we all know that the faster you go the lower your miles per gallon.  Physics biatches!

    For your 25 mile commute if you travel at 60 mph then it would take 25 minutes.

    25 miles(1hour/60 miles)(60 minutes/1 hour)=25 minutes

    Now, consider if you went 65 mph. Your commute would take 23 minutes.  A total of 2 minutes saved.  

    OK, your in a hurry so you drive the 25 miles at 70 mph.  Now your commute time is 21 minutes.  You shaved 4 minutes off of your commute.

     

    Realistically the best you can hope for is 4-5 minutes saved during your commute, but at what cost to your fuel economy.  If you want the best fuel economy, then slow down. I understand that driving slower can be difficult (hey I live in New Jersey and commute on the Parkway), but that is the sure fire way to get good fuel economy.   

  6. The one thing I don't get is the fact that you have to plug in your phone to use this system.   Just seems like a pain to use.  I really like being able to keep my phone in my pocket and use it that way.  I think at some point these will work that way too. 

     

    At least that is my understanding of how it works. 

    My understanding is that Google and Apple want the phone to be out of your hands.  So force a plug-in.  It is also possible that Ford and other car makers don't want to give up control of the infotainment system, so by forcing a plug-in the retain some kind of control.  

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