theasset

I have a 2017 Energi Titanium with the keyless entry system (tap the handle to lock, put your hand in the handle to unlock) and it's randomly stopped working altogether I looked up how to ensure I hadn't turned it off by mistake somehow, but the guides all refer to Settings>Vehicle Settings>Keyfree, while I just have Settings>Vehicle>... (Mykey is the only key related option here and nothing to do with it) It is wintet here now, and it's been a little colder than usual, but it's currently above freezing and still not functioning. Do I need to clean some sensors somewhere? If the passenger door sensor is dirty, will this overload the whole system and stop the feature working on the drivers side? I am pretty frustrated with how little information I can find on this for my specific vehicle

I totally understand.. I had a 3rd party dealer order and program a 2nd fob for us and it had some Mykey limitations on it despite no Mykeys showing up in the dash settings. Trying to explain to them that the key didn't work led them to sending me "heres how to disable mykey" links that I'd already found on my own and treating me like a dummy.. Ended up going to the garage and they sat outside tapping the remote on the ignition stalk for 30 mins pressing buttons in a random order. Finally learned I need to drop it off again because the key needs to be fully repregrammed with a special tool

Hello, I was wondering if something has changed recently on how advertising is displayed on these forums. I logged in and the interface has massive ads above and below the actual forum content (they seem to take up more room than the actual discussions) including clickbaity "OK" buttons that look like they're designed to be part of the forum itself.. The ads at the bottom of the page are a list of random videos totally unrelated to anything car specific Makes it nearly impossible to use the forum without clicking something by accident and triggering a cascade of popups and misdirects

Ah! Ok! I have the Energi, so it only refills the battery from regenerative breaking, vs the hybrid which recharges from normal driving / fuel use (I believe this is the difference).. When I'm in EV auto mode it doesn't seem to be much different, it uses up the battery first then swaps to the engine (unless I go on the highway, then it kicks the engine in for better performance) Now that I learned I need to "power cycle" the car to swap back to EV only mode after a bit of charge is replenished I'll see how that goes.

I've slowly been experimenting with the various EV modes, customized dash configurations etc and after a month of testing, I'm still confused as to exactly how to correctly read/understand the battery level, when the electric engine is used etc... We usually use the car in EV only mode, as it's our groceries/chore car, and rarely switches to the ICE drivetrain, however, we have obviously driven more than 25 kms in one trip more than once since we've had the car. It appears that when there's no more battery left, the graphic of the battery shows up as totally empty, and the range of electric travel is shown as 0 km. However, if I park and later resume driving, although it still shows up as 0 kms, the battery icon shows a small rotating set of arrows, and seems to "refill itself" slowly as we drive. I understand the car slowly recharges via regrenerative braking, but despire seeing this graphic usually fill up to 60-70%, it still shows as "0 kms" of range.. This totally flummoxes me, and I'm totally confused as to why the battery would "refill itself" so quickly (within 20mins) yet not actually be offering any of this electric only range.

Hey gang I purchased a used 2017 CMAX Energi from a 3rd party dealer, which only came with one key. They sourced me a second one and had it programmed so both my wife and I can have our own key and not have to share. However, when we drive with this new key, we cannot increase the volume past 14, nor drive faster than 130 kph. Neither of these is a HUGE inconvenience, but the car loves to chime at us when we get to around 120kph, telling us we've almost reached the max speed, and a number of podcasts we listen to are much too quiet given this limitation to volume. When I follow all the guides on how to remove/disable the configured MyKeys, the car shows that there are 2 Admin keys programmed and no MyKeys. I'd like to avoid having to bring the car in for service to have this handled.. The only thing I could think that might be the issue is that the key we purchased isn't OEM, and thus there's some sort of hardware limitation whereupon Ford is punishing those who don't buy OEM parts. Everything I have googled on this doesn't seem to give me any additional information on how to address this issue. Thanks everyone!

I realize this is an ancient(ish) topic and you might have already fixed this (or sold the car!) by now, but I wanted to suggest swapping out the fuse(es) for the radio, while also checking to see if the existing one(s) are seated properly etc. This sounds a lot like an issue I had with a previous car where general use had caused the fuses for the radio to shake loose.. at first the perfomance was sporadic, then it stopped working altogether, much like your own issue. I was able to simply reseat the fuses and I was up and running again.

Thanks. I read this reply promptly and decided to back off a little until I'm comfier with what limitations I'd be willing to risk in order to change.

Awesome - Thanks for confirming your preferred adapter! What's the risk level for flashing custom scripts? If things fail for whatever reason is there an elevated potentiality to "brick" the electronics/vehicle?

I recently found a 90w adapter on Amazon for 20 CAD that looks to offer dual 45w connectors in both USB C and USB A varieties. I'm all for rapid charging my devices when I'm not connecting them to the Sync 3 system, so I'm excited for this one.. while some of the reviewers seem to share that the charger works with the cover still on (and potentially even closes with it inserted?!), if it doesn't close, I'm wondering if any of you fine folk have worked out how to remove that flip cover without damaging anything.

As the reigning champ for necroing old threads, as a new C-Max owner I'd like to thank this community, and @Marc Smith in particular for sharing that the Escape mats appear similar if not the same as the C-Max set. I emailed the company and they confirmed they are identical.. I was able to source a set of front mats from someone locally for $50 CAD from their old Escape, I am hoping to pick these up tonight or tomorrow!

Ah, love this geekery! Just picked up a 2017 Energi Titanium here in Canada, and so pleased to see a community that is so passionate about these weird cars. Is there a specific device that's recommended for use with FORScan? I see from their site there's two for Windows machines, The VGate and the OBDLINK EX. The latter is about 2x the price of the former, any experience with these?

Looks great, not too agressive .. have you noticed any reduction in performance (read: cornering, range/fuel economy)?

@jzchen thanks, yes, I already have the fit kit, I purchased it along with the feet from someone who's dad had a C-Max in the past (feet + fit kit were a grand total of $40 CAD) I also purchased aeroblades for $200 CAD, I had to play ball with what the seller wanted because I wanted to avoid new, and it's not easy getting the specific length of 53" on used sites, so if something comes along, you grab it! I finally picked up the vehicle yesterday (yay!) and have only attempted a perfuntory attempt to slide the feet onto the bar.. as you can see from the side shot (posted above), the interface between the foot and the bar doesn't seem to rely on the smaller slot under the bar, but instead struggles to slot into the larger channel above this slot. Photos of the feet in some manuals show a smaller interface that I assume fits the channel, I am now wondering if: there were either multiple versions of the 480R feet (and/or) I can lube up the existing interface and bang it on with a rubber mallet (and/or) I can purchase a different interface for the existing feet that fits the channel (or) I need to purchase an updated set of feet I will continue to test and report back as I continue this complicated journey!

@jzchen Great, appreciate the warm welcome and It seems quite difficult to actually identify the model # of the feet I purchased, since I got them from a local used site. The Wingbars I've been able to source locally/used aren't long enough, although I have found some Aerobars that are the correct length.. The serial on the top of the foot doesn't seem to turn up any Google results.. The kit you discovered is still in production while mine have been discontinued. Here's a side shot of the foot I have. I managed to find what I believe to be the same ones on Amazon, which identifies them as the Rapid Traverse Foot Pack 480R.. this then led me to find the manual for these feet, here, which I *believe* seems to communicate that they're compatible with the Aeroblade bars.. I managed to actually find a set of 135cm Aeroblades locally here. Any thoughts? At this point I'm probably going to head over to see if the feet I have are compatible with the bars, but I'm still waiting to pick up the car so I can't even double check that the feet I have do indeed work with the C-Max (the seller was selling them for his dad, who had a C-Max, so they should be ok, and while the images from the original poster are now dead links, I can only assume from the text comments that the Thule system does indeed work with the pano roof. I appreciate you participating in this conversation, if only to smile and nod alongside my journey/research ?

I feel a little ridiculous necroing a thread from almost a decade ago, but Thule has removed all the information on what hardware works on the C-Max vehicles. I have managed to secure the correct fit kit for the C-Max, but I can't find what length of bars I need to purchase for this model, can someone help me out?