agilix

I can purchase the OEM fog lamp assembly online, and also able to find the SEL headlight switch to replace the SE version of switch. I think the best approach to go through the Body Control Module (BCM) for proper wiring. I assume that SEL will have extra wires from its switch and lamps to the BCM, but I doubt the BCM is completely different from the SE model. Hope they use the same part number, just additional wiring for SEL. SE Switch SEL switch

Sorry to recycle this thread, but I would like to report one audio system failure on my C-Max today, and share some leanings from the experience. 2013 C-Max SE with 203A package, 34700 miles. After about 5 days inactive in the garage, I started the car this morning and everything appeared normal. The audio was automatically on playing Bach cantatas from a USB thumb drive just as I turned it off last week. About 7AM time for the NPR news, I pushed FM on the screen, no response. AM, no response either. Bach kept playing. Weird! Was the touch screen dead? Tried Navigation or Phone buttons, both worked (if a little sluggish as usual). I tried the audio selection on the right top of steering wheel, it navigated to AM or FM, but none of the choice could be selected or activated. Stopped the car, pulled the key, got off. Got back and re-started, all displays were normal, but still not able to change audio selection. OK, keep checking while driving. Noticed couple additional symptoms: (1) Audio could not be turn off, the big round push button was not responsive; (2) Volume could not be changed, either by the knob, or by buttons on the steering wheel; (3) Navigation worked, but no sound as it was supposed to be; (4) Bluetooth connecting phone worked: could make call, but no sound came from the audio speaker, (Bach kept playing); (5) Only the USB source worked (and stuck there), and I could forward/backward select different songs on screen; (6) Tried a compact disc: Insert into the slot, no response. Tried to eject, showing "no disc is found"! Summary: Audio system appeared stuck and was unable to recover. Once arrived the destination, searched for answer by google and on this forum. I tried at least three times of Master reset. Had to pull all accessories off Bluetooth, USB, or SD slot. First time perhaps lack of patience, the next couple times, gave it enough time for the screen to shut down, recycle, and came back again. During the process, lost all previous settings in maps and phone, etc.None of reset solved the audio problem. Searched again, pulled out couple discussion threads on audio system failures, including this one. Decided to give a try. First checked the fuse diagram and compared to the real fuse box, noticed that mine does not have fuse 67 at all (due to SE than SEL?), so I decided to target fuse 69 and 79 as experts suggested here. Got the needle-nose pliers, wrapped the tips with some tapes, pulled the 5A fuse 69 and 15A fuse 79. Turned on the ICE (all instrument panels were dark), running for 2 min. Shut down for about 3 min, pulled the key off for another 5 min (went for a coffee). Re-inserted the fuses, and turned the key to start: Wow, all audio systems were back to normal! Observations: even after so called master reset (three times), the radio preset stations were still there! Does that mean I did not reset completely (or it could not cure the audio stuck anyway)? Anyone can share the proper master reset procedure? I did gave it plenty of time to recycle the screen, and all my phone and favorite map locations were lost. Also, the radio appeared to become more sensitive. I have been complaining poor receptions of this C-Max, especially AM that could not pull WFAN from NYC to New Haven clearly. Now it sounds much better after the fuse trick. Of course, the USB thumb drive had to be re-indexed, but as far as I can tell, the audio system was back to normal during a short trail ride (and it could swallow and spill CDs again). Will report any issue in case it persists. Thanks guys!

Not on a trip (which would not be favorable with unfamiliar terrains, highway speed, potential traffic and AC usage, etc., in my opinion), I am in the middle of a self-challenge to break my previous record of 712 miles on a tank during my daily route. Will post once i5 is done.

Can't help but laughing about the last picture of a toilet in the trunk. Nice way to end a review I say! ;)

No extra refill for sure, since I drive the car most of the time, and my kids won't touch gas. I did not even mention (embarrassingly) that the gas was actually spilled out when I refilled, so it is definitely a full refill. I think there are several factors: (1) My gas gauge might not be accurate, but was not that much different. I expected to use more than 13 gal for the 710 miles, and was a little surprised that the yellow warning was barely start to show up and I still had about 45 miles left on the gauge. That would bring an error (variation) about 1 gal, which is not abnormal. (2) I have been driving an alternative route to send kid to summer job. While the overall distance increased daily (thus 2 weeks instead of 3 weeks for that tank), the overall freeway speed (50 mph) plus relative flat latitude (Rt 34 instead of Merritt parkway in CT) are optimal for EV driving. (3) I visited repair shop in June to address an issue of slow leak of one tire. Turned out that there was a nail! They fixed it and my tire warning was gone (annoyingly lighting up every two months for a year). (4) The "low" freeway speed enabled me to open windows most of the time instead of using AC, I noticed more close to to top 50 or even low 60 MPG readings after every ~15 mile drive (using 0.2 gal), literally half way from home to New haven, and then to work, back and forth. (5) Summer weather is helping: not too many hot/humid days so far, and I chose to drive C-Max during a better days :)

Hot summer driving...... Three weeks drive for the July one (656 miles): And two weeks drive for the August one (713 miles):

Hot summer driving...... Three weeks for the first one, and two weeks for the second.

Hot summer driving......

Hot summer driving......

Surpeise: usually the C-Max display always shows less gas than actually fill up. Today, my tank showed using 13.43 gal in the picture, but Costco gas station showed I only added 12.466 gal, which brings the actual number to 57.4 mpg! Interesting......

Surpeise: usually the C-Max display always shows less gas than actually fill up. Today, my tank showed using 13.43 gal in the picture, but Costco gas station showed I only added 12.466 gal, which brings the actual number to 57.4 mpg! Interesting......

When posting the original question, I never expected to generate such a lengthy discussion on EV+ either :) Thanks for all the insights and revelations! I am seriously NOT a car expert at all. From what I can summarize by reading this forum and online materials, if you are a Ford marketing person, what do you think the average C-Max buyers are concerned about? I can think of three topics: (1) How much gas do I save? (Thus so many discussions of MPG, 600-mile club, cover of the engine chambers, drifting behind big truck, avoid acceleration or hilly route, etc.) (2) How long can the HVB last? (Thus so many discussions on warranty and consumer confusion of 12V battery and large HVB, replacement cost, etc.) (3) I can't find a No.3 here. (Most other issues are related to 1 or 2, or not significant in comparison, or lesser a factor you considered when buying a C-max., perhaps power or comfort?......Again, sorry for my ignorance since I am not a car expert.) So for me, the EV+ mode appears to serve the top two interests here (regardless whether Ford is promoting it this way). By using more HVB, you can drive a little longer on EV, and get higher MPG overall; also reduce the HVB level for (potential) long time storage. That is also my concern that when the HVB is too low, the next start will lead to ICE kicking in right away, and may lead to less gas saving and lower MPG It is quite clear now that the HVB indicator is not accurate and the small difference is hardly significant or meaningful for topic 2. One way I can think of avoiding an "ultra-low" HVB storage level (if that were even possible!) is to avoid aggressively prolong EV driving just BEFORE EV+ comes up. This way, you expect a higher level of HVB before EV+, and thus a little higher level of HVB once you park the car. My current rule of thumb is observing the triangles more tentatively for the battery use or charge, and to maintain half or above HVB level before EV+ coming on (less than 0.4 miles in my case). Make sense? Enjoy the long weekend!

Sorry, I meant Pre-Owned Certified. I did purchase mine in New York, and the dealer mentioned that NY State has better waranty than other states (in terms of lemon law, but not sure about HVB). The car had some scretches and tiny dents, and that was why it was priced quite low. I also purchased exterted waranty for the sake of all the electric gadges. (One of the shade/mirrow lights is already off!) BTW, I think a lot of discussions here are very valuable. I tend to believe EV+ is more than saving gas off ICE, and does contribute to logivity of HVB in the long term. The "cold" start after "longer" parking especially makes sense for HVB recharging. I guess I need to figure out the exact SOC of my battery using some of the special tools mentioned here.

Hi everyone: I have been driving a POC 2013 C-Max SE for about five months, and have put about 5000 miles on it (total 23000 miles now). I have a question about the HVB capacity and the battery status after daily drive. I seem to read somewhere that EV+ mode would optimize the HVB for parking and storage. I also read that for long term storage and extended life of the HVB, it is not ideal to have the battery fully charged when not driving for a period of time. It is better at 50% level for the battery to last longer. I think these designs all make sense: when I reach the frequent destination (like my home), the C-Max recognizes the location, and the EV+ mode kicks in. It looks like to increase the performance (usage and torque) of the HVB motor for the last quarter mile, so when I park in my garage, the HVB is not fully charged. I recently noticed that the HVB level is quite low after park, such as barely 25% of the full level on the HVB bar on the panel. Also, when I start driving the next morning, the level appears to drop even lower, to certain degree that once in a while, the gas engine immediately kicks in when I start the car. Is that normal? What is your HVB level when you park your car for the day? What is the optimal level for the HVB for longer life? Thanks!

My 13 SE since late March just did this couple times this week, also after a few days idle. Perhaps the engine needs to refresh every now and then, if it does not run for a while? The other annoying thing I noticed is that when I start the car, especially in the morning, I sometimes can hear stat noise from the front, like plugging in a electric heater if you know what I mean. Once the car starts to move, the noise is gone. Is that normal? (Just over 20K.)