stolenmoment

Can you post a link? My camera looks like it stared into the Sun for too long.

Thanks! I don't have the facilities or the shoulders and knees to do it myself. I do suspect that the right rear shock mount is gone, given the nasty clatter over each bump.

My 2013 still has the original suspension, and something in the right rear has broken (wrote about this earlier), so I'm about to take it into the dealer to get all this fixed/replaced. My question is, does the car have just shocks, or does it also have McPherson struts (doesn't every car? every FWD car?), so what do I tell the clerk when I get the work done, so I don't sound like a dummy and get taken? Thanks!

The HVB is what runs the two electric motors that conspire to start the ICE and to get ICE torque to the wheels, remember? The 12v battery is just for the accessories and the power relay that lets juice out of the HVB. If the HVB is totally dead, your car is bricked. But there's a long way to go from "can't run on battery for long" and "not enough battery to start the ICE".

This *is* hybrid mode. What happens when you plug it in? Does it charge?

Remember, the guess-o-meter is based on your recent driving. If you have a lead foot, it might think that you only have eight miles of juice. Follow cr08's instructions, that will get to what you really have available.

Additionally, slowing down from highways speeds can generate a few percent of charge. My son went to college in Vermont, and it was really fun to climb the hills with gas, then charge the battery rolling downhill. You can get out of Hybrid mode this way: charge it going downhill, park it, turn it off, and when you turn it back on, it might have enough charge to go into EV Later mode, from which you can recharge as you go. I generally arrived with a fully-charged battery, even after driving in EV mode on the flats. "Recharge as you go": watch the battery percent in the Settings screen, remember what it was when you last hit EV Later. If it's higher than that, cycle the mode button three times to reset the target charge level.

The car companies are panicing because EVs have much lower repair costs than ICE vehicles, so they see the dealer+shop incomes drop accordingly, and they're reworking the warranties to keep them profitable.

Right, the cabin heater is a resistance heater and eats the battery, cuts range down by perhaps half on days like this in New England. Try the test again, as above: charge to 100% (percentage shown on the big screen), EV mode, heater off (you'll survive the chill), seat heater off, run in EV-only mode, no highways, until it drops into Hybrid, park and turn the car off. The left-hand screen will briefly show kWh used in this trip, that's your current usable battery capacity. Yes, "EV mode not available" is displayed when the battery is below the hybrid-only threshhold. The displayed range (guess-o-meter) is based on recent driving activity, so it's useless for the first couple of trips while it observes your driving style. I don't use the cabin heater on my Energi unless I have to, or if I'm going on the highway (and running the gas motor) anyway. The seat heater and gloves work just fine. But, I'm a fanatic.

My 2013 Energi's fuel pump is pretty loud, but the noise clearly comes from the back end of the car. The noise tracks the fuel consumption directly.

The dealer broke mine when they did the door latch recall work. They immediately fixed it with no fuss.

I had a similar "adventure", I managed to pull a K-turn by backing up (down the hill), but there is only the one way in to where I was going. I have alternatives, so all was not lost. Scary, trying to climb the hill, speedo says 10mph, but we're not moving.

sigh and my 2013 Energi tranny is going strong. The suspension, on the other hand, needs replacement. Badly. But it's had ten years of bad roads, so there you go.

So, the TCU contains both the phone and bluetooth radios? That would suck, I take phone calls all the time and the car reads (most) text messages to me. I also have a 2013, and I've gotten used to losing the phone network (I never upgraded), but losing bluetooth would really annoy me.

Both modes recharge from slowing down or going downhill, but you can play games with the accelerator when the motor is going to recharge ever so slowly; learn to glance at the up/down arrows on the dash. I always drive in L to give me more control over that sort of thing. EV auto has different thresholds for starting the engine, and will do that if you floor it. I live near a busy traffic circle, so I have to goose the car just to enter, which will always start the motor. One of the "My View" modes has the thresholds displayed if you want to get a feel for this. I want a more customized "My View" mode that shows me more details: it should turn on the tach whenever the motor's running. But, I'm a programmer and we all have a bit of OCD.