cr08

Maybe, but I'm doubtful. It'll know if it has enough charge in the HVB to start the engine successfully. If there wasn't, it wouldn't even get to the cranking stage. And these have enough oomph to get even a stone cold ICE started. You're talking a nominal ~300V battery pack with gobs of amps vs a ~12v lead acid battery starting an ICE only vehicle. Hopefully it is something simple on the ICE side like fuel/spark/throttle body. But getting codes read first is really the best first step. Without any kind of diagnostic tools available, you're merely guessing. And you can't afford to continue trying to start it and drain the HVB further.

Based on the low RPM, I'd say it isn't able to successfully start the engine and is failing out for some reason. It may seem like the engine is running, but it's not. It's just with it being cranked by the hybrid system it feels a lot smoother than a traditional ICE vehicle. Being a hybrid vehicle, I'd IMMEDIATELY stop trying to start it as it'll continue to drain the HVB until it can't be used any further and you'll be stuck with a dealer having to bring in a charger to bring it back up which will cost $$$. No way to DIY it yourself at least safely. Get codes read and see what the vehicle is reporting. If you want to see a good example of what a 'no start' condition feels like, here's a good video. It's from an old Escape hybrid but the systems are nearly the same:

To be clear: The BMS only needs reset if changing out the battery. If you're just disconnecting the same battery for some reason and reconnecting it after, there should be no reason to reset the BMS. That's all retained in non-volatile memory that doesn't get affected with loss of power. Also the BMS reset can be DIY'd. The best solution is to use Forscan (either the mobile or PC version, both have the necessary service function) with your OBD adapter of choice. There's some method floating out there of doing a whole dance with the high beams or flashers or something but the issue with that is there's no clear confirmation that it succeeded. With Forscan you can check the battery age PID after the reset to confirm it took.

Honestly I'm not terribly surprised. I used to be in the camp of 'Drive it until the plug-in capacity is dead and drive it as a hybrid vehicle' but over time have realized that's not really how it works out in reality. This became especially prevalent when I had a somewhat self-inflicted issue come back up recently with the EV+ mode. But the short version is that with even a somewhat aged battery in my 2013 with a little bit of degradation, it gets cranky when it is deeply discharged. Those with more severe levels of degradation I can certainly see running into issues just driving around once the charge level gets low. In my case I only experience issues after EV+ has done its thing at a destination I won't be charging at. Next few drive cycles the CEL is on and ICE is on full time until the battery is brought back up to a reasonable level after it was deep discharged and sat. But it's all about a few damaged cells that will drop significantly out of the normal voltage range when discharged and pulls the rest of the battery down with them. Ford just cut too many corners with the overall battery management and EV operation thresholds trying to make it run like a full EV when it really isn't that capable. Add in the lack of owner education on their part and doubling down on not warrantying any degradation just adds salt to the wound. I've said it in a few places but because of this combined with owner ignorance (using the term literally, not in a derogatory manner), I don't have high hopes of these vehicles (the Energi's at least) being good buys on the used market in the coming years. I certainly wouldn't buy one without a super thorough inspection and battery health check. That all said, I've been super happy with mine. 2013 Energi SEL. Fully loaded. Sitting at 96k miles. All of the major known quirks have been resolved either by the previous owner or myself so she's a 100% reliable vehicle. Did the Sync 3 upgrade which was well worth it and I'm perfectly happy with what I've got now and don't see a need to upgrade anytime soon. Also did the 4G modem upgrade which has been working great despite the neutered functionality for our vehicles. But at least there's no monthly/yearly subscription to worry about. But I've also educated myself over the now nearly 8 years of ownership on all the quirks and nuances in order to better maintain the overall health of the vehicle but it's really 95% keeping the battery happy.

No separate fuse. It's all part of the computer controls in the BCM and runs off the same headlamp lighting circuit. The key things that dictate whether it operates or not: Headlamp switch has to be in the Auto position Home Light setting on the dash is turned on Ambient lighting has to be low enough to trigger the automatic headlammps. If it is daylight out, the auto home light feature won't operate. Also worth verifying that the auto headlamps work accordingly while driving. If they are malfunctioning it could affect the auto home light function too.

The Ford adapter you posted will not work. That's for L3/DCFC only which the C-Max is not compatible with. You wouldn't be able to physically connect it anyways with the two DCFC pins at the bottom. What you're looking for and is an easy search is a 'Tesla to J1772' adapter. There's many on Amazon that I'm finding with a quick search. Keep in mind these will ONLY work with Tesla destination/wall chargers that are L1/L2 only. They will not enable the C-Max to work with Superchargers.

Do not remove the fuse for the ANC system. You've effectively disabled the amplifier hence the no/low volume. Keep the fuse in place but pull the microphone connector under the dash on the passenger side per the ANC disabling thread in this forum.

Ford updated their TSB on the transmission issues in the past couple years to cover all years so there's no 'safe' year. That said, as always it isn't a guarantee you'll experience it. Extended warranty is up to you and what you think is a safe bet. Just make sure it covers everything you may need. As far as preventative measures, I and others have recommended shortened transmission fluid change intervals. Ford calls for 150k miles. I think around every 75k is safe. No guarantee it will help prolong the life but at the very least it would give you a visual and see if there's any metal particles in the fluid coming out before things worsen. These transmissions have no normal wear components like clutch packs or the like so there shouldn't be any 'expected' contaminants in the fluid. That said it also means there's no harm in doing the shorter intervals or even shorter at your own discretion. Even high mileage changes should not be an issue. It's not like a traditional automatic transmission. It's more like a basic manual in this regard. Just a drain and fill and there for lubrication/cooling.

There are jump points under the hood. Use those first to try and jump the vehicle long enough to open the hatch. Seeing issues people have had doing this in the past, you may want to verify you have a solid connection especially on the grounding post (the long grey 'bolt' sticking up in the engine bay on the drivers side near the headlight). Also may need to give it some time if the battery has been seriously discharged to give it enough juice for the appropriate modules to wake up. The BCM is in charge of the locking system and the latching mechanism in the hatch. If the door locks work and interior lights are lit, it should be enough to open the hatch. If all this fails, you'll unfortunately need to climb over the back seat and figure out how to access the battery that way which will be a HUGE paint in the ass. Try the above options first.

The ACM needs its calibration/firmware updated. Ford has a TSB out for this. It will fix the issue permanently.

It's built into the BCM and is not replaceable.

Not sure about a dealer installed. And I think most have taken the '2014-2017/18' years on the original bulletin as a hard limit on which ones they'll upgrade even though personally I think it wasn't intended to be interpreted that way and just what they covered under the free labor provisions. But I have a 2013 SEL and DIY'd it and it's been running perfectly aside from Ford dropping all the useful features which isn't specific to the '13s and affects everyone.

You got the built in remote start with the keyfob, yes. That was a factory option. What I'm talking about is the TCU itself, the cellular modem. That was not ever offered even as an option on the hybrid models. It was included standard on all Energi models. So being able to use remote start via FordPass is not an option short of the DIY install working on those.

Maybe? The biggest question will be if Ford will activate it and allow you to access the functions through FordPass being a hybrid vehicle. They only ever included the TCU on Energi models, not hybrids. And their servers upstream will be the final decision maker if it is possible based on your VIN. The TCU's themselves have programming parameters for hybrid vehicles though so everything up to Ford's servers should, in theory, be possible. I don't think anyone has ever confirmed it being possible. As far as the car itself responding to the remote start commands from the TCU, that again is a theory but it should work if you have the proper remote start functions in Forscan enabled. It's about the same if you went to an aftermarket CAN based remote start unit. If you do try it, definitely keep us all updated how it works for you. Would be nice to know if it is possible for hybrid vehicles.

You may be able to disable the park sensors permanently through Forscan but I'm not sure of where to find that. It wouldn't be an easy menu toggle or button in vehicle. Stock you can disable it temporarily with the button on the dash under the HVAC controls and it'll remain off for the remainder of that drive. But next vehicle start it will re-enable. No way to change this specific operation. For the Sync issues, always start by checking for any updates and making sure it is fully up to date. The old Sync 2/MyFord Touch systems got pretty much everything sorted by their final EOL update (3.10). And just as a personal anecdote having hitch mounted accessories on a road trip back when I still had Sync 2 installed in my 2013, there were never any issues like this that I experienced. Here's Ford's site that can help you check for and apply updates: https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/ Also if you haven't already done so, a master reset is a good thing to try. If you have updates to apply, it's also recommended to reset after those are applied as well. Upgrading to Sync 3 will not be possible through a dealer. They will always tell you no because Ford doesn't support or sanction that. It has to be done DIY.