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No separate fuse. It's all part of the computer controls in the BCM and runs off the same headlamp lighting circuit. The key things that dictate whether it operates or not: Headlamp switch has to be in the Auto position Home Light setting on the dash is turned on Ambient lighting has to be low enough to trigger the automatic headlammps. If it is daylight out, the auto home light feature won't operate. Also worth verifying that the auto headlamps work accordingly while driving. If they are malfunctioning it could affect the auto home light function too.

The Ford adapter you posted will not work. That's for L3/DCFC only which the C-Max is not compatible with. You wouldn't be able to physically connect it anyways with the two DCFC pins at the bottom. What you're looking for and is an easy search is a 'Tesla to J1772' adapter. There's many on Amazon that I'm finding with a quick search. Keep in mind these will ONLY work with Tesla destination/wall chargers that are L1/L2 only. They will not enable to C-Max to work with Superchargers.

Do not remove the fuse for the ANC system. You've effectively disabled the amplifier hence the no/low volume. Keep the fuse in place but pull the microphone connector under the dash on the passenger side per the ANC disabling thread in this forum.

Ford updated their TSB on the transmission issues in the past couple years to cover all years so there's no 'safe' year. That said, as always it isn't a guarantee you'll experience it. Extended warranty is up to you and what you think is a safe bet. Just make sure it covers everything you may need. As far as preventative measures, I and others have recommended shortened transmission fluid change intervals. Ford calls for 150k miles. I think around every 75k is safe. No guarantee it will help prolong the life but at the very least it would give you a visual and see if there's any metal particles in the fluid coming out before things worsen. These transmissions have no normal wear components like clutch packs or the like so there shouldn't be any 'expected' contaminants in the fluid. That said it also means there's no harm in doing the shorter intervals or even shorter at your own discretion. Even high mileage changes should not be an issue. It's not like a traditional automatic transmission. It's more like a basic manual in this regard. Just a drain and fill and there for lubrication/cooling.

There are jump points under the hood. Use those first to try and jump the vehicle long enough to open the hatch. Seeing issues people have had doing this in the past, you may want to verify you have a solid connection especially on the grounding post (the long grey 'bolt' sticking up in the engine bay on the drivers side near the headlight). Also may need to give it some time if the battery has been seriously discharged to give it enough juice for the appropriate modules to wake up. The BCM is in charge of the locking system and the latching mechanism in the hatch. If the door locks work and interior lights are lit, it should be enough to open the hatch. If all this fails, you'll unfortunately need to climb over the back seat and figure out how to access the battery that way which will be a HUGE paint in the ass. Try the above options first.

The ACM needs its calibration/firmware updated. Ford has a TSB out for this. It will fix the issue permanently.

It's built into the BCM and is not replaceable.

Not sure about a dealer installed. And I think most have taken the '2014-2017/18' years on the original bulletin as a hard limit on which ones they'll upgrade even though personally I think it wasn't intended to be interpreted that way and just what they covered under the free labor provisions. But I have a 2013 SEL and DIY'd it and it's been running perfectly aside from Ford dropping all the useful features which isn't specific to the '13s and affects everyone.

You got the built in remote start with the keyfob, yes. That was a factory option. What I'm talking about is the TCU itself, the cellular modem. That was not ever offered even as an option on the hybrid models. It was included standard on all Energi models. So being able to use remote start via FordPass is not an option short of the DIY install working on those.

Maybe? The biggest question will be if Ford will activate it and allow you to access the functions through FordPass being a hybrid vehicle. They only ever included the TCU on Energi models, not hybrids. And their servers upstream will be the final decision maker if it is possible based on your VIN. The TCU's themselves have programming parameters for hybrid vehicles though so everything up to Ford's servers should, in theory, be possible. I don't think anyone has ever confirmed it being possible. As far as the car itself responding to the remote start commands from the TCU, that again is a theory but it should work if you have the proper remote start functions in Forscan enabled. It's about the same if you went to an aftermarket CAN based remote start unit. If you do try it, definitely keep us all updated how it works for you. Would be nice to know if it is possible for hybrid vehicles.

You may be able to disable the park sensors permanently through Forscan but I'm not sure of where to find that. It wouldn't be an easy menu toggle or button in vehicle. Stock you can disable it temporarily with the button on the dash under the HVAC controls and it'll remain off for the remainder of that drive. But next vehicle start it will re-enable. No way to change this specific operation. For the Sync issues, always start by checking for any updates and making sure it is fully up to date. The old Sync 2/MyFord Touch systems got pretty much everything sorted by their final EOL update (3.10). And just as a personal anecdote having hitch mounted accessories on a road trip back when I still had Sync 2 installed in my 2013, there were never any issues like this that I experienced. Here's Ford's site that can help you check for and apply updates: https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/ Also if you haven't already done so, a master reset is a good thing to try. If you have updates to apply, it's also recommended to reset after those are applied as well. Upgrading to Sync 3 will not be possible through a dealer. They will always tell you no because Ford doesn't support or sanction that. It has to be done DIY.

Cant really comment on the remote start topic but I've never seen anyone who was successful adding the factory RS option if it was not equipped across Ford models. Only some Explorer models seem to be the anomaly here. May just be easier adding an aftermarket remote start module. For the park assist, you'll need more than just the module if the vehicle didn't already have it. You'd need to make sure you have all front and rear parking sensors. You'd also need new ABS sensors. Vehicles without park assist only had unidirectional ABS sensors. Park assist requires bidirectional sensors. There may be other pieces as well. Those are just the ones I'm immediately aware of.

Check the hybrid inverter coolant on the driver's side as well. The overtemp message will also come up for that even though it is not clear that it could be for this. Pull codes as well as those could help narrow down the cause. So many things are monitored and reported in these vehicles.

Service manuals. You can find them on eBay. I highly recommend finding a CD based non-PDF copy if possible as they'll be the most complete but the PDF is ok for the basics. But in my experience that may miss some sections or images. But the service manuals will be the exact thing that Ford dealer techs have access to and go into a lot of detail regarding these vehicles. I do have an ISO file for my 2013-14 copy. I'll see if I can post it up on archive.org later.

Sounds like the AC compressor. They are normally noisy/buzzy in these vehicles especially under high load/high outdoor temps. If your AC works fine, I wouldn't sweat it (pun intended).