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I doubt this will work out as you want it to. There's a LOT of electronics and programming involved that expect a given battery capacity and voltage. Also charging is an issue with cell balancing involved. The vehicle would need to be made aware of the second pack that it needs to manage. Even moreso, expecting to push more 'voltage' into the drive motor is out as that is all on the inverters and vehicle programming. Short of being able to reverse engineer and reprogram that (and likely replacing some electrical components in the inverter), you aren't getting anywhere on this one. Not to say I'm dissuading you from trying, but these systems are a LOT more complex than you're implying.

This doesn't work because the C-Max doesn't have an SCCM. It has an SASM which is completely different and does not hold information about the turn signal functionality. In our vehicles (and same with early Focus/Escape's as they share the same platform) it is handled in the BCM which is not well documented. We do have a 'Central Configuration' option for that which has plain English configuration options but there's nothing there to adjust the turn signal blinks. One thing to keep in mind when looking up this information is not all Ford vehicles share the same architectures and even if they have similar modules, the AsBuilt bits may not be the same. The F-150's (which is the info you pulled from) have been VERY well documented due to a large community there. However outside of something that is HIGHLY universal like the APIM, very little of that is going to apply to us.

Not that I've found and a few other ownsers who have been digging into this stuff haven't had luck either. This is definitely something I've been wanting to figure out on mine but there's nothing documented for our vehicles unfortunately on this stuff. Other Ford vehicles can do this with AsBuilt changes in ForScan and I have no doubt the C-Max would be able to as well, but the bits are likely going to be different than you'll find for other vehicles like the F-150 for example (which has WELL documented AsBuilt information). The only thing I can tell you is it will be blink based instead of seconds. Default it should be 3 blinks and on all other vehicles with this documented the changes are all to the blink count.

Take it as you will. I'm not saying anyone absolutely SHOULD follow these guidelines. Heck, my '13 is still on the original fluid at 85k miles and I'm probably going to hold off doing that drain/fill until around the 100k mark when I have the other big scheduled maintenance tasks done. But there's ZERO harm in doing so earlier if one wishes to do so. And I stand by the idea that doing so earlier on 13-15 models is probably a smart bet to try and catch signs of bearing wear early. And in this case @jestevens just confirmed they are ripe for this with a 2013 hybrid. To @jestevens: A flush is not necessary on these, just a simple drain and fill as you noted. In fact it's a very simple process if you wish to DIY it as well. But yes, there's no harm in doing the changes basically at any mileage as far as the original inferred concern goes that the dealer warned you against. There's no normal friction wear parts that most people worry about with traditional automatic transmissions.

On the contrary, I'd sooner trust his word over Ford engineers any day. Granted most of his work these days tends to be F-150's and a lot of 5.4L work therein. I've watched just about all of his videos and his advice is very trustworthy and based on common sense and experience, not just blindly accepting Ford's word on things. On top of that, why not change the transmission fluid earlier than called for? It's a VERY easy process on the C-Max and the fluid is cheap. And to go back to my earlier comment: 2013-2015 models with the potential transfer bearing issues would do better to change out early if just to check the fluid condition for any metal particles.

Yes, keeping the key (especially if yours is keyless) near the car in any way is a bad idea. It will not only cause increased consistent drain on the keyfob battery but also the car's own battery as systems remain awake when it sees the key nearby. You could possibly find a 'faraday cage' box for it. They exist. I know CarMax uses them pretty heavily as they keep the keys attached to the vehicle in one of these locked boxes. But I'd still recommend against it. As far as the liftgate goes, you'll just have to try the different positions. If you haven't had any modifications to the rear bumper or an added hitch receiver, it should work just about anywhere. IF you've added a hitch for example, that will change things. In my experience with my '13 with a hitch added, I need to specifically stick the toe of my foot up in the bumper cavity just to the right of the hitch receiver for it to trigger. But it has been very consistent and reliable doing this. This may be worth a shot even if you don't have a hitch installed.

The dealer's probably thinking along the lines of it being a traditional automatic with a torque converter, clutch packs, etc.. Usually when these are left so long without having regular fluid changes, the clutch packs wear and the fine particles in the fluid can 'fill in' places to make up for lost friction. So doing a flush or drain-and-fill it loses this and can get much worse. This is not how the eCVT is designed. There's no friction/wear components. In terms of what the fluid does, it's no different than a manual transmission vehicle. It's simply there for lubrication and cooling. So there shouldn't be any concerns about doing a drain and fill so late in its life. That said, a lot of people do recommend doing them at much earlier intervals. I think I've seen between 50-75k miles. Even FordTechMakuloco on Youtube who exclusively runs a Ford shop did this on an old Escape Hybrid using basically the same transmission (just an older version/model) I think recommended a 50k interval. What model year C-Max? And is this an Energi or Hybrid? If 2013-2015 and/or a hybrid model, it couldn't hurt getting it done if only to get an idea if there's any metal particles in the fluid. This could indicate issues with the transfer bearing that is a concern to worry about in those early years.

The recent 'bushing' recall is for a bushing connecting the gear shift linkage to the transmission that could fail and cause the transmission to not actually be in the gear indicated by the dash/gear shift. A worst case scenario would be thinking you have it in Park but the transmission could be in another gear and roll away (if you do not use the parking brake, which should be a habit to always use for anyone and any vehicle). The control arm bushing is completely separate and part of the suspension components and thus would not be part of this recall. I can't comment on the pricing beyond that.

Dumb question, but did you do this update yourself and do you know what version it was upgraded from? The only other possibility I can think of down this line is there was a certain point in the Sync 2 version history where a dealer needed to be involved to do a low level update that can't be done via the normal USB flash drive process to move forward. It was my original understanding that you couldn't even do those USB flash drive updates without that dealer step but that may be wrong. If it is possible to do one without the other there's a likely chance, much like module calibration levels, that the low level dealer update adds these specific functions that the main software/OS needs for them to work. That's all I can think of right now. To the best of my current knowledge these two features (GPS clock sync and that 'i' icon at the bottom of the screen) are not a vehicle specific thing. The 'i' icon if memory serves had some vehicle agnostic stuff like access to the old vehicle health report function and some other non-hybrid/plug-in related stuff. I did manage to find an old photo I had taken from mine back in 2018 when I still had Sync 2/MFT installed. This would have been with the 3.10 release as well.

Could also be the rear washer fluid line leaking which does run along that side if memory serves. The A pillar covering should be easy to pull off and you can verify from there.

Nope. That should be universal across Ford models. And best I can tell with numerous screenshots I'm seeing, it's there on vehicles like the non-HEV Escapes and F-150's just on the ones I'm immediately seeing. Can either of you confirm the version numbers you have listed on your System Information screen? I've also double checked Cyanlabs' AsBuilt DB for Sync 2 and don't see anything that could possibly cause this to not be displayed there. Reason I mention this is I have seen this brought up a number of times on other forums/groups concerning the C-Max where people were missing some key features like the power flow and/or Value Charge/Go Times screens and the telltale signs were missing either the leaf icon or that 'i' icon at the bottom and were all confirmed to have ancient versions of Sync that were never updated.

You may need to update to get that. Looks like yours is out of date. Newer versions should have a little 'i' icon in the bottom center row of buttons.

Easy: Go into the clock screen (for Sync 2, you should simply be able to tap the clock at the top of the screen on any page) and you'll find a button that'll say to Reset or Sync to GPS time. Same on Sync 3 systems as well.

A number of reasons for not going down this route: A lot of those portable storage units/battery packs have limited power output. If you aim for the <$500 budget range, most only put out 200-300w. If you want up near 1kw, plan to spend over $1k. Also with infrequent use being in play here, all being lithium based I am wary of spending the money and having it sit and likely self-degrading as a result. Generators are also out for similar reasons. And more importantly they are just noisy and in the end likely run a lot less efficient than using the C-Max as a generator itself. All in all going down this route I'm probably looking at $200-$250 all in for the inverter and all the extra bits and this will get me an 800w-1kw continuous power feed that the car should be able to handle just fine. And I can safely and quickly disconnect it and pack away the inverter when not in use and hook it back up just as easily when needed. This definitely isn't an unusual setup especially in the hybrid/plug-in communities. This is just the first time a personal need for this has come up and finding a very good setup to base off of.

On our vehicles (both Hybrid and Energi models) they have two coolant temp sources. First is inferring from a cylinder head temp (CHT) sensor that sits flush to the head of the engine normally between the middle coil packs. This is common across many Ford vehicles. With the C-Max, there's a separate TRUE coolant temp sensor, ECT2 in this case. Took me a while to find specifics in the workshop manual, but I've attached a PDF below where it details the location, removal, and reinstallation. This also matches component diagrams elsewhere in the workshop manual that show the ECT2 feeding off the harness in this exact area. This best I can tell is specific to the hybrid model. I THINK for the Energi models this sensor moves and is part of the PTC/electric heat coolant loop so it can monitor that temperature for the HVAC system. I'll dig into my workshop manual a bit further and include that info just for completeness sake here. 2013_CMAX_ECT2_workshop.pdf

Looks like I'll potentially have a need coming up to run a higher wattage power inverter, more than the stock one will provide. I also would like to future proof for potential future uses especially considering we've had two long-ish term power outages this summer alone here due to the storm frequency and severity we've dealt with. Doing some further research I have the following notes to go on here: Per the official Ford workshop manual, the DC-DC converter is capable of 'up to' 145 amps to the 12v systems/battery. Under ideal operating conditions w/ a fully charged 12v battery, sitting idle in EV mode but 'Ready to Drive', and Daytime Running Lights active, the base 12v load as indicated by the DC-DC converter appears to be between 30-40 amps, usually hovering around 30 at least on my '13 Energi. With the above noted, the theoretical max capacity inverter one would want to use is 1000 watts (continuous rating) max. This would be a 100 amp load on the 12v side, not counting for any conversion inefficiencies. Ideally you probably want to aim for 800 watts to account for headroom and those aforementioned inefficiencies. There are TECHNICALLY some ways you can get around this including adding a beefier aux battery to the mix as a sort of buffer if you need the higher wattage for only brief periods. But for a 100% stock and unmodified vehicle, the 800w-1kw inverter ratings are the theoretical max you'd want to go with 1kw being used continuously likely completely maxing out the load on the DC-DC converter so keep that in mind. Most higher capacity inverters seem to expect to be hardwired and do not include cables with clamps on them but eyelets to bolt down instead. A handy Volt owner has a thread over on reddit with what I believe is a nice baseline setup to accomplish this and what I will likely base my own setup from to make it a handy quick disconnect system: My DIY inverter wiring setup : volt (reddit.com) The main takeaway with our vehicles and any kind of hardwiring in this case is connecting to the vehicle wiring in the appropriate spots. There is a battery monitoring sensor on the negative post of the 12v battery which is key in that it provides the vehicle useful data on how much current is being drawn or supplied to the 12v battery and allows the DC-DC converter the information it needs to output the right amount of power to supply all loads. So a third party load like this should be AFTER this sensor electrically. The positive side of the battery does not seem to have this same issue and -should- be able to be attached to normally. I will be doing more physical research and will start getting the items together to work on this. I'll document this process as I go.

If you don't have the factory nav, you can't get turn by turn directions. You USED to be able to. Ford used to have what they called 'Sync Services' where it could dial out via your phone to an IVR/automated phone system where you can ask for directions to a business/address/etc and it would pull turn by turn directions down over the voice channel (like an old school dialup modem) and the car would then take over. Didn't require any onboard maps or anything. This existed way back in the original Sync 1 platform back in 2008+. But they've deprecated that feature and there's no replacement. In fact you should be able to use the 'Services' voice command and it will try to dial out but you'll get a message saying it no longer exists and hangs up. What model year do you have? 2013-2015 model years with Sync 2 (if you have the 8" touch screen system) can be 'hacked' to add navigation. 2016+ years with Sync 3 you need new hardware to add navigation. Though on those, you do have the option to use Android Auto/CarPlay. Which brings me to an additional point: If you have the factory 8" Sync 2 system on a 2013-2015 model, they can be easily upgraded to Sync 3 and the upgrade is 99% plug and play. People sell full pre-programmed kits all over. I paid about $700 all in and I got factory navigation as well. The vehicle does include a GPS receiver regardless of whether you have nav or not. This is needed for other features like 911 assist and the EV+ feature you noted. It would have also been used for the Sync Services feature I mentioned above. It's also able to be used to sync the clock and do auto timezone adjustment if you have that enabled.

The bits at 754-01-01 xx** xxxx xxxx look off. All J/K models (as well as other TCU models) in CyanLab's db have everything from 60 through FF listed as 'Reserved'. Though a previous discussion in their forums indicates internally these duplicate some other bits. If I read that conversation and this info correctly, those bits SHOULD map to '38' which indicates the following: 38=VA CGEA 1.3, TDR EU, OCS Configured CGEA 1.3 should be correct for a late model Fusion, but not for a C-Max. That would need to be C1CMA. The TDR EU region would depend entirely on your intended region of course but this indicates (if this person did not intentionally change this block already) that this is an EU destined TCU. To the best of the collective knowledge so far, TCU's cannot be moved between regions. If it was built for EU, it will only work there. Same for North America and other listed regions. OCS, unsure of what that is for but it tracks what we've seen on the H TCU's. Other than that, everything else lines up. The 754-03-XX and 754-04-XX blocks are just feature toggles. So far it seems like enabling all of these is fine. So that would be setting them all to 7D. 7C disables those. Caveat is 754-03-06 ****-xxxx-xxxx which is a unique bit that is an HEV data publishing frequency. The 0078 it is set to now is fine and can be left as it is. Probably the key thing here is getting what calibration level/strategy is loaded on that TCU for comparison. All the TCU AsBuilt's as they are currently on the CyanLabs' site don't have anything specific concerning the Go Times/Value Charging (now called Departure Times and Preferred Charge Locations in FordPass respectively) and with the H TCU's this has long since been narrowed down to being tied to an updated calibration and F150Chief over at CyanLabs has already basically confirmed some J/K firmwares have this but doesn't look like we've had a lead on a specific version there yet.

That said, to comment on one of your concerns: So far in all my years in this community I think I've only seen this kind of thing once or twice by other owners but it never seems to be a big enough issue to cause the car to be completely undriveable. And despite it being a bit unnerving I'm sure, there seem to be at least enough failsafe's for it to drive. This just happens to be a communication error to where the IPC (gauge cluster) isn't getting the continuous stream of data from the rest of the car (mostly the PCM/engine computer) and is why it just 'drops' dead for a moment. I won't guarantee that it WONT cause drivability issues down the road, but to the best of my current knowledge and second hand experience from other owners, it just means a temporary communications issue. But that also means it is probably going to be a pain to track down. Checking and verifying all chassis grounds you can find would probably be my first go-to.

Here's one, but this is JUST an example. There's many more out there: https://www.amazon.com/Forscan-elm327-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B079KBYP2Q/ Telltale sign is it says MS-CAN in the title and also has that switch on the end which is how the unit switches from HS-CAN to MS-CAN and back (the ForScan app mentioned will specifically ask you if the dongle has this switch and will let you know when to flip it). Another tell is if they list ForScan in the name as well. MOST cases of these will do MS-CAN. Technically I think in this case MS-CAN is not needed (Dumbed down version: MS-CAN is for less mission critical modules in the vehicle like climate control, door modules, radio, etc. while HS-CAN is more critical stuff like the PCM/engine computer, BECM/hybrid battery module, IPC/gauge cluster etc. where your issue is likely to be taking place) but it's worth having IMO just in case it is ever needed. If you ever plan to dig into the car a bit more down the road, can splurge a bit, and plan to use a Windows computer at all for this, I can't recommend the OBDLink EX highly enough: Amazon.com: OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter : Automotive The OBDLink EX will basically do just about everything you could possibly need with this vehicle at least through the ForScan application.

Depends. If it is the full 8" screen with Sync 2, it is a fairly easy process. There ARE C-Max models out there with the smaller 4" screens which Ford technically refers to as 'Sync v1'. Likely fleet models and I've seen more owners recently crop up with these. These require a bit of extra work to upgrade with new dash pieces and some harness adapters. I'm not 100% up on the details of this process, however. That said, to the OP: If the guy offering you $200 knows the system you are starting from (especially if it is with the 4" screen) and knows what they're doing, that's a steal. Most DIY kits for the easier 8" MFT/Sync 2 to Sync 3 upgrade run around $400 minimum give or take and that's w/o factory nav. I paid about $750 for mine a year ago and got mine with factory nav included.

My 13 (Energi) is still holding up at 87.5k miles knock on wood. No new abnormal noises. I still get a constant, but low brake scraping noise that I've posted about on this forum prior that even my dealer couldn't narrow down even with a ride-along. At best they told me it was just the brakes and normal and I'm just hearing it because it's a hybrid/plug-in and drives so quiet. That noise hasn't gotten any worse, but also not any better. Not due for new brakes yet so will just wait patiently until that time comes and see if anything changes.

I'm not quite so sure the keyfob battery is the culprit here. Slowing down the video, what I'm seeing pop up is the brake light and low oil pressure warnings. Could just be an intermittent communication issue between modules. Have you ever actually been actively driving when this happens? If so, does anything else happen like the speedometer bottoming out? How often does this occur? You say you had a dealer check it, but just to completely rule out there being any latent codes, do you have the tools to pull the codes yourself? I highly recommend just for sanity's sake and not having to constantly go to a dealer down the road to get on this. I personally recommend a cheap OBD Bluetooth dongle on Amazon (Make sure it says it can do Ford MS-CAN stuff!) and the ForScan app (Android, iOS, and Windows). This will pull any possible codes the vehicle has stored, even historical codes that dumb scanners may not pick up, as well as Ford specific codes. On the code scanning deal: If this seems to happen at specific times that you could possibly narrow down, being able to check for codes right when it happens could also help. Bare minimum it'll be an extra data point for diagnoses and may even help the dealer out if they cannot replicate themselves.

Just adding one last confirmation on this before I leave this thread alone (until I get the TSB done myself and wait to see if the issue reoccurs) but now that it has gotten into the deep summer months here, the ANC on mine has been absolutely perfect and even seems like the ICE noise is even less now whereas previously I was still able to hear it at a low level with the ANC still active. Definitely seems to be ambient temp related for sure. Now the big question mark is this: Is the main culprit something in the roofline directly affecting the microphones or maybe the ICE behaving differently? Heck, maybe motor mounts (from experience with my old '07 Focus which seemed to go through motor mounts like candy, it definitely had a noticable increase in vibration during the colder months). As noted earlier, I will be trying the 'fix' from Ford's TSB on this issue at some point and will see how that goes. 14-0151.pdf

1) Verify you didn't accidentally put it in L. This will add heavy regen when letting off the gas. Driving in D, it will still do SOME regen off-throttle but it is more like a low level regen with a feel similar to a traditional automatic vehicle. 2) Check and see if your brake lights work as well. When you brake normally, do you get the little spinning circle on the dash over the battery gauge still? If either of these are a no, sounds like something with the brake switch that you should get checked out. Also, what do you mean by the leaf screen was reset to a blank screen? Can you possibly get a picture of that and post it here?