jmk

Ford manual on trans drain/fill. Measure what you take out. Do not fill past the fill plug. Skip the fancy Mytivac fill machine in the Ford manual. Use a long 3/16 hose and push in in to the fill port. Run it upward to a funnel. Put at least what you measured coming out back in to the trans. Then put some more until is runs out the fill port hole. Remove tube, put plug back. Next oil change, do it again and you should be pretty clean. And with that, I'm outta here! trans-drain-refill.pdf

119 views and no help. OK, so I found help. I'll post these pdfs here for anyone else that needs them. Engine coolant, and electronics coolant changes. And with that, I'm outta here! coolant-svc.pdf electronics-cooling-svc.pdf

Hi all. 120k miles. Thermostat needs to go, so I'll do the coolant flush. I saw long ago (2014) info from a member on coolant bleeding/burping procedure. It was an image file and it is not longer available. Does anyone have this info, or could point me to a source for it? Even a generic google only gives me basic info, and nothing specific pertaining to my hybrid for starting/running/burping, etc. Thanks in advance - John

Sorry. I could use the same info because I want to do a coolant flush. I saw what looked like procedure image files (screen clipping?) from messages on this board dating back to March 2014, but they ere removed. Anyone else have the bleeding/burping procedure?

Hi all, 120k on mine and I must have replaced it 4-5x already. the first couple times were a real struggle.... Finally figured out the easy way (no, not the dealer). Once you remove the fuzzy under dash cover, and the glovebox to make things easy to see (for my old calcified back..), there are two large blue electrical connectors on the fuse panel. There's a locking pin on them and once pressed, you can rotate the handle on the connector, which pushes the connector out of the panel. Remove those connectors and gently push them out of the way. Now you have a clear, straight shot to remove the old and install the new filter. As for the comment on the entertainment system, it's a good idea to pull that fuse, attach a strong piece of tape to it, and reinstall. So when/if the system goes nutty, you can more easily pull the fuse to kill it and then reinstall it later when you have time and better visibility. Last time I pulled it (years ago) it was on max volume and would not shut off (but that was before v3.8 was installed...still good to be prepared while your there)

Hi all - interesting thread. I was considering opening the lines at the trans cooler, and discharging in a bucket and using trans suction pressure to draw in new fluid, similar to my non-hybrid (sorry.) 2007 Fusion. I use a couple more qts that way, but eh/whatever. Does the CVT trans have a pump - in you opinion - that is capable of this discharge/draw flush method? TIA.

@ Plus 3 Golfer You too, eh? Funny... I won't trip the thread in to 'what if any lubricant to use on the threads', but I'm very sure these new plugs will go the next 100k and not loosen, and when it is time to replace them, they should be easier to remove. Now, back to the ICE, rad/trans flushes....

O/F , AF and general clean up for the coming winter season. 99,950 miles and changed the plugs today. Look ok, gapped out fine. Did note than #2 was much less tight than the other 3. You can see it in the picture... more soiled after the threads over the years...? Off to consider coolant/inverter fluid and trans fluid changes... :)

Yup. Just happened to me/us this past week. 4 tiny little plastic 'straps connect the top of the cover the the lower, and the lifting force of the tailgate pulls the lower joint apart (someone ought to show Ford engineers how to use a free-body diagram for calculating lifting forces...oh wait, some noob used computer generated code to create a mesh and 'analyzed' it....kid engineers these days...no practical sense...end rant). So what I did is drill and counter bore a small hole on the underside of the cover. I also drilled 2 small holes in each of the plastic 'straps' very close to the end that separated. Besides some clamps and tape to hold the shape while curing, I used my go-to-for-broken-Ford-plastic (I have a 2006 Mazda...works on that too) adhesive - Gorilla Glue. I was sure to let it ooze through the holes I bored, in addition to making sure the broken (and cleaned) seams were addressed. Doing a 24hr cure. Will see. I've seen the part on the 'net for <$90 not incl shipping, but then I'd have to paint the tri-color platinum white. Glue first....buy and paint if I have to. What a miserable design detail. Like to pic a few pics, but no can do...