DR61

I don't really want this either; don't plan to make a special trip to the dealer for sure.  I suppose eventually they will get an opportunity to install it.

Took my driving text in a 1967 Plymouth Fury station wagon. Parallel parking was an adventure. In college I had a Volvo 544 and a Volvo station wagon. My brother had a Volvo P1800. Sweet car, until he totaled it.

Another Volvo here for my first car: a 1958 Volvo PV444, 4 speed manual, with shoulder harness attachments built in (which I added).  An industry first, I think.  Traded it in on a 1961 Austin Mini Cooper!

While visiting the University of California Lawrence Berkeley National Lab, we came across several of these police cruisers!

 

The following is taken from page 468 of the 3d printing of the Owners Manual:

 

Certain smart phones may support transferring street addresses when

listed with phone book contact information. If your phone supports this

feature, you can select and use these addresses as destinations and save

them as favorites.

 

I was unable to find any more specific information about how to use this feature.

 

When I look specifically for information for selecting destinations with the NAV system there was no mention of selecting a destination from the phone book.  Specifically, from page 512 of the 3d printing:

...

Setting destinations with phone book entries is in the Phone menu (upper left corner of home screen), NOT the NAV menu.

The problem seems to be that Apple contact addresses include a 'Country' field, while the Ford system doesn't.

I use an old dog bed zip-on cover for the temporary spare.

Technically I would say being able to have Nav favorites from the phonebook is a feature that is lacking, not a problem, because MFT never says it supports this.

 

Anywho, try to run a Vehicle Health Report and see if that updates the sync website w/ the correct version number.

MFT is supposed to be able to navigate to a phonebook contact, if the contact has a physical address, doing this:

Press Phone

Phonebook

select a contact with a physical address

Options

Set as Destination

Here I get an error message saying "Invalid address, please...."

This is for phonebook contacts imported from my iPhone.

I did the update in about 30 min. with car in garage and 'on' but ICE off (Energi).  Presets and NAV favorites were preserved, phone pairings not preserved.  Time was set back an hour.  iPhones paired again ok. With the new update the same problem exists with phone book addresses not being able to be read into NAV favorites .

With the USB drive back in the computer, the SYNC web site failed to confirm with Ford that my update was successful (tried 4 times).

 

Should I keep grade assist on all the time?  When or will I ever need to use L gear if using grade assist?  

 

I want to #1) not overheat friction brakes (safety) and #2) strive for best mpg.

 

 

I think actively managing your car is best in mountain driving.  I use D on upgrades, so if I let off the pedal some momentum is retained.  I use L on very twisty sections so I can get high regen when backing off to slow for corners, hopefully without having to engage friction brakes.  I use L or grade assist on downgrades, depending on how curvy it is.  On some downgrades that are straight and lead to long flat sections or upgrades, I shift to D or N (if speed is safe) to maximize momentum for the upgrade.

Does this update wipe out all the Nav favorites I have set?  I got it onto the a USB drive (after many hassles getting Java updated, and a very slow download) but I'm reluctant to install it because I have a long trip coming up and have many addresses already set up in the Nav. 

Does the update correct the bug that prevents phone book addresses from being used by the Nav system?

Exactly, GaryM.  I'm also a long-time autocrosser and road racer.  Jacking up both wheels on the same side with one jack has never been a problem.  With a front weight-biased car you can usually do it from the front side jack point.  Just do not get any part of your body under the car if you are not using jack stands as a backup.

The jack points are indicated by small triangles in the plastic lower molding, in front 6" behind the front wheel opening, and in the rear about 13" in front of the rear wheel opening.  The jack has a slot for the chassis seam at those points.  I'm using a scissor jack from my 2012 Mini which uses the same type of seam jack points.  You can buy a similar jack at Harbor Freight for less than $20.

I put a label on my temp. spare to install only on a rear position.  In case of a front flat, my jack can lift both wheels on one side, then a good wheel can be installed on the front position, and the spare on the rear position.

Set up an MyFord Mobile account on my iPhone5.  All went well but I never got a confirmation screen in the car. Did I miss something.  I tried twice over the weekend. Any help would be appreciated.

EDIT  Today I cancelled my account and started over.  NOTHING  All works well until I am instructed to go to the car and confirm on the screen.  My iPhone is from Sprint. I can't get the car to read texts either.  IDEAS?

I had a similar problem getting the confirmation screens.  I posted about it here with a solution:

http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/894-my-ford-mobile-app-website-still-a-work-in-progress/?p=7429

Basically, pulling and resetting fuse #67 (manual p 272) resets the Cell Phone Passport.  I used small bent-tip needle noise pliers.

I got our iP5's to read texts also. There are instructions I think on Ford's web site, here, or on the Energi web site.  Good luck!

The FSA says nothing about roll-over structure.  It says "Affected vehicles were built with insufficient interior head impact protection at the roof/B-Pillar area."  I am thinking the foam padding under the headliner in the area where the B-Pillar (pillar just at or behind driver/front passenger) meets the roof has a problem on some cars. 

Perhaps the supplier used the wrong foam density or thickness for a batch of cars, and it was uncovered in routine QC checks. The car has side curtain air bags that protect the head at these points, but the foam is probably a secondary level of protection.

I completed my spare tire kit.  I found an unused temporary wheel+tire from a late-model Ford Taurus at a 'Pick and Pull' place.  It cost all of $18.  I will use the jack from our other car (fits C-Max seam jack point with no problems) along with a 19mm socket and long ratchet wrench.  We will use it on our vacation to Idaho and Montana this summer and at other times where we venture away from main highways.

It takes a relatively small amount of space in the boot and I will secure it with a ratchet strap to the tie-down points. Because of its smaller diameter and width, I will only mount it in a rear position (in case of a front flat a full-size rear wheel will be switched to the front ).

T135/70-15 temp spare compared to stock tire of C-Max:

It is unfortunate that Ford placed the 'miles' figure on top of the battery level meter.  % charge (an actual number) does not equal 'miles' of range, which is only a rough computer projection of a future event.

I don't see this info for our Energi either.  On wish list for software update.

Do you guys think using 0W-20 oil would help in my situation?

There is very little difference in kinematic viscosity between a 0W- and 5W- oil.  Maybe in Minnesota winters a slight difference, but not in Texas I think.

Michelin doesn't recommend 51, that's the max they will take.  You will lose grip with them being so high.

 

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/saturday-mechanic-blog/finding-correct-tire-pressure

The tire label pressure is the maximum recommended for the tire load noted on the sidewall; not the max the tire 'will take'.

Well, perhaps you will loose a small amount of grip on some surfaces. And perhaps gain some under some circumstances. Tire pressure vs grip and fuel economy is complex; 12 years of road racing and 40 years of autocross competition has taught me that there are no easy answers regarding tire pressure, even for street driving. All settings are to some degree a compromise.  If you are not the experimenting type, stay at 38 PSI minimum cold pressure.  If you are inclined to experiment, test out some higher settings up to 51 psi (cold).  I'm running 40 psi at the moment (same as my Ford dealer mechanics put in), but I may experiment later.

I just sold a 2009 VW Sportwagen TDI and bought a C-Max Energi.  The TDI is a fine highway car, and if you do a lot of that, a good choice. On a per pound CO2 or $ basis rather than gallon basis, the fuel economy is not that different from the C-Max in highway driving. Has lots of cargo space but less passenger space that the C-Max.

The TDI can't touch the C-Max for urban driving fuel economy, however, especially for shorter trips.  Also in cold weather the TDI gets a huge hit in MPG, more than a gasoline car, in short trips.  Diesel engines take a long time to warm up.

I found just about everything I need for a spare in my garage.  A temporary spare for my other car (also didn't come with a spare) that I bought last year is very close to the diameter of the C-Max stock tire.  And the jack for my other car also works.  Just need to include in a 3/4" socket and long breaker bar, plus a hub adapter, which I have to order for about $60.  The car is a 2012 Mini Countryman and the spare is a 135/80-17, 25.5" in diameter compared to 25.9" for the C-Max or Mini tire.

Most electric power in the US is NOT coal.  Coal power is below 40% and dropping fast.  Natural gas, wind and other sources are replacing coal.

My Energi power source is primarily solar.

Over time, only the plug-in type vehicle will get cleaner as the local grid gets cleaner. 

Hi there;

I am new in this endeavour, and am trying to learn as much as possible to increase milage figures. Just got my new C Max.

I am pleased to hear that when I am drifting down a hill, no ICE, no EV drain, that there is regeneration happening. Do I have that right?

All the talk seems to be around braking regeneration, not coasting recharging. Why is that?

If I need more than just "generator" braking downhill, am I better to brake, or engage the "grade assist" to provide engine braking, from an energy efficient standpoint?

When you are completely off the accelerator pedal, there is light regeneration (the ^ symbol on top of battery is on).  That is not true coasting.  When you put the shifter into N, then you have true coasting with no regeneration.  In N only aero drag and bearing/tire drag is slowing the car.  You can try this on a flat road with no traffic: drive at 30 mph, lift off at some reference point, and note how far the car goes before it hits 20 mph.  Try it in D and N and you will see that you go many times farther in N before your speed drops to 20 mph.  It is sometimes useful to use N going downhill in gently rolling terrain to maximize coasting up the next hill, if traffic safety allows. 

If you need more than regen to control your speed going down a steep hill, I recommend first L, then Grade Assist.  The ICE may turn on to provide engine compression braking, but it will use insignificant or zero fuel.

Both C-Max models come with the Michelin Energy Saver A/S, so I don't think the type of tire is the problem.  It is possible there is an individual tire out of spec of course.  Our new Energi does not exhibit the characteristics described here except some correction needed in strong crosswinds, which is understandable.  It is not that much different from our other car (Mini) with electric power steering.  I like them both.  We tested a PIP before buying the Energi and I must say the Prius steering was the worst I have tried in any car in the last 25 years.

Good advice to keep after the dealer to get the steering adjusted.  It should feel good at normal highway speeds in good weather.