pobodysnerfect

It's easy if you remove the entire headlight assembly. Remove the 2 fender bolts on top so you can gently pull the fender to angle the headlight out. Don't forget about the main connector at the bottom of the headlight. There are a few youtube tutorials that may be of help to you. The entire project took a few hours. The most difficult part is probably separating the lens from the housing itself. 2nd most tedious job was getting the horizontal alignment level via trial and error but the joy of the finished product makes it all worth the troubles.

a short 2 min drive - And high-beam action

I've always been into lighting and the factory halogen headlights on the C-Max are just not acceptable to me, comparing them to my past cars that are equipped with factory projector HIDs. I tried LED bulbs in the factory halogen hosing. Although the performance was much better, the glare was a little too much for my liking as I've been high-beamed by oncoming traffic a few times. I wanted to correct this so I looked into retrofitting projector HID's into the factory housing. My choices were TSX or RX350 projectors but found out that the best option would be to use projectors from Morimoto. I opted for their Mini H1 V7.0 bi-xenon kit and they definitely live up to their reputation. I don't have any progress pictures, unfortunately. Just the end results! I have a few more videos that I'm going through but for now, hope you guys enjoy some pictures and clips..

Good afternoon, all! I hope everyone is safe during these hard times and being responsible so we can all try to return to normality as soon and safely as we can. With that said, I've taken some voluntary time off for my own personal well-being and something that I've always wanted to get around to, was to install a switch for my front parking camera. Since I purchased a base model (base of the base - believe me), I installed an aftermarket head unit and with Sync being completely disabled, I wanted to make a 4.3" screen useful. Of course, I ditched it and installed an aftermarket 4.3" monitor and wired to my front camera. This was intended specifically for parking purposes, whether it be parallel or just trying to inch up to that concrete block. I found a switch that was the same diameter as the 12V outlet under the shift lever (I believe they are seat heater controls for the models equipped with seat heaters), and mounted the switch there. Then used the 12V door flap to install on top of the switch to give it a "stealth" and "incognito" appearance to it. It's a pretty simple setup but I just wanted to share with you guys. Hope you guys enjoy!

Check out a few of the threads that I've participated in. I have the basic set up as well and decided to ditch it since it's useless to me, anyway. If you're looking to keep steering wheel controls, you want the Maestro Rr. You're really only needing 4 wires (Power/ground and 2 communication IIRC). the unit is put in tween the new head unit and the steering wheel audio control unit. I decided to ditch all that stuff and just run it like you would a regular head unit that has more features and with a built in microphone. Now I have Apple Car Play and that is about 10x more than what Basic Sync can do for you. All this costing less than $500 with a plug+play harness from Crutchfield.

You'll GAIN 15mm of inner wheel clearance to the strut housing and it''ll extend 15mm outwards. Generally, you'll be okay. 15mm is a noticeable difference but you'll still have good clearance. Not too sure how it would do in a "bottom out" event but I wouldn't worry about the offset difference too much. Personally, I'd be concerned about the weight difference between the 2 sets in addition to the snow tire you plan on running.

Generally and based on your description, it sounds like your engine mounts are beginning to give. To simplify it, components “stiffer” more under colder conditions. And when it heats up, it softens, hence the vibration traveling through the mounts. Of course, this is just my opinion and it could come down to other things. You can have someone give you a hand a do the good ol’ “Power-Brake” it while you visually monitor the movement of the engine.

I forgot to mention that I disconnected the 4.3" screen to completely disable it. You'll still be able to get the temperature reading on the instrument cluster but for the time, I just use the headunit. The new headunit features do the rest of the work.. IE: BT Audio, Car Play, AUX, USB, etc..

The aftermarket route is definitely the more "bang for your buck." Here is my set-up. It's simple and cost effective. I AM, however, looking for another headunit that can do wireless CarPlay. But for now, this will do. I was having trouble with the speakers as the headunit has a equalizer. It sounded like the speakers were popped/cracking, so I completely bypassed the DACM that is directly behind the glove box. If you choose to do the same, here are the wiring schematics you'll need for the 16 pin connector. NOT the 20 pin (there are 2 connectors on the DACM): Left front positive - WHITE Left front negative - WHITE/BRN Right front positive - WHT/VIO Right front negative - WHT/ORG Left rear positive - BRN/GRN Left rear negative - BRN/YEL Right rear positive - BRN/WHT Right rear negative - BRN/BLU HU1 HU2 HU3 HU4

I was in a similar position. To install the "better" system, is possible, but certainly not practical. The two different cars have different wire harnesses, dash skeletons, etc. I spent weeks reading up on how to "convert". Although possible, it's not worth the time and money to do so. You'll read that it's better off to sell your C-Max and buy another that is equipped with the 8" screen. What you CAN do is upgrade to an Android head unit or similar. Check out Crutchfield for the dash kits and modules if you want to keep your steering wheel controls. There are plug and play kits available and if I recall correctly, Crutchfield also has a service to make a 100% plug and play radio harness for those who don't want to deal with the troubles. Of course, for a small fee. I don't care for SYNC so I opted for a headunit with Apple Car Play, DVD, etc.. Also installed a reverse camera. All that for under $500. Cheaper than buying an APIM.

Thanks for the warm welcome, Frank! I saw a few of ptjones’ videos and found it some techniques helpful! One thing I did apply was the tire pressure. On a full tank (I’ve only filled up twice since I purchased it), I seem to be getting a hair over 500 miles to the tank. That’s already twice as much as I would with my other car so I’ll take that! Haha! I’ll compare the difference on this new full tank with 50psi tire pressures as opposed to the factory specs. My main reason of my purchase was for comfort. I like the feeling of just getting into a car and going without thinking too much. Another contributing factor is parking. I can park it anywhere without having much fear of it being stolen or worry too much about door dings, which is my number 1 pet-peeve! Only real thing that bugs me right now is that small 4” basic Sync! I’ve tried searching but haven’t had much luck. What I’d want is the factory 8” display set up but it seems like it’s not possible from what I’ve been reading so I’m trying to figure out more options..

Good Evening, all! I wanted to introduce myself to this wonderful forum. I’m located in Los Angeles and this is my first hybrid, although I’m very familiar with them as I work in the automotive industry. In efforts to save money on fuel, and get a little extra “bang for buck”, I was searching for hybrids and coincidentally, 2 good friends of mine happened to own their own and rather than the Prius route, I opted for the C-Max Hybrid. I purchased it, pre-owned and the sole intention was to commute to work. Living in LA, it takes me roughly an hour to travel 18 miles - one way. I figured this would be the perfect balance and I can perhaps enjoy driving again instead of having 3 pedals like my other gas-guzzling cars. Let me start by saying I’m in love with this thing. The size of the car and the comfortability factor surpassed my expectations and I’m loving it more than my other cars. I’ve added a few “accessories” to make it more enjoyable and my next step is to upgrade from that 4” display to something larger from factory (if possible). I’ve been doing some research so I’ll know all my options soon hopefully. But for now, I wanted to introduce myself to this community and say hello. I’m looking forward to finding good valuable information here!