pobodysnerfect

It's easy if you remove the entire headlight assembly. Remove the 2 fender bolts on top so you can gently pull the fender to angle the headlight out. Don't forget about the main connector at the bottom of the headlight. There are a few youtube tutorials that may be of help to you. The entire project took a few hours. The most difficult part is probably separating the lens from the housing itself. 2nd most tedious job was getting the horizontal alignment level via trial and error but the joy of the finished product makes it all worth the troubles.

a short 2 min drive - And high-beam action

I've always been into lighting and the factory halogen headlights on the C-Max are just not acceptable to me, comparing them to my past cars that are equipped with factory projector HIDs. I tried LED bulbs in the factory halogen hosing. Although the performance was much better, the glare was a little too much for my liking as I've been high-beamed by oncoming traffic a few times. I wanted to correct this so I looked into retrofitting projector HID's into the factory housing. My choices were TSX or RX350 projectors but found out that the best option would be to use projectors from Morimoto. I opted for their Mini H1 V7.0 bi-xenon kit and they definitely live up to their reputation. I don't have any progress pictures, unfortunately. Just the end results! I have a few more videos that I'm going through but for now, hope you guys enjoy some pictures and clips..

Good afternoon, all! I hope everyone is safe during these hard times and being responsible so we can all try to return to normality as soon and safely as we can. With that said, I've taken some voluntary time off for my own personal well-being and something that I've always wanted to get around to, was to install a switch for my front parking camera. Since I purchased a base model (base of the base - believe me), I installed an aftermarket head unit and with Sync being completely disabled, I wanted to make a 4.3" screen useful. Of course, I ditched it and installed an aftermarket 4.3" monitor and wired to my front camera. This was intended specifically for parking purposes, whether it be parallel or just trying to inch up to that concrete block. I found a switch that was the same diameter as the 12V outlet under the shift lever (I believe they are seat heater controls for the models equipped with seat heaters), and mounted the switch there. Then used the 12V door flap to install on top of the switch to give it a "stealth" and "incognito" appearance to it. It's a pretty simple setup but I just wanted to share with you guys. Hope you guys enjoy!

Check out a few of the threads that I've participated in. I have the basic set up as well and decided to ditch it since it's useless to me, anyway. If you're looking to keep steering wheel controls, you want the Maestro Rr. You're really only needing 4 wires (Power/ground and 2 communication IIRC). the unit is put in tween the new head unit and the steering wheel audio control unit. I decided to ditch all that stuff and just run it like you would a regular head unit that has more features and with a built in microphone. Now I have Apple Car Play and that is about 10x more than what Basic Sync can do for you. All this costing less than $500 with a plug+play harness from Crutchfield.

You'll GAIN 15mm of inner wheel clearance to the strut housing and it''ll extend 15mm outwards. Generally, you'll be okay. 15mm is a noticeable difference but you'll still have good clearance. Not too sure how it would do in a "bottom out" event but I wouldn't worry about the offset difference too much. Personally, I'd be concerned about the weight difference between the 2 sets in addition to the snow tire you plan on running.