Ctgriffi

@nogoodbum— So sorry for the excessively late reply; I never get notifications from this site! Your information and experience were very helpful and exactly the kind of thing I hoped this thread would provide. Thanks again! We are at about 168K now with no major issues. I have done some rear suspension work lately (shocks, shock mounts, and sway bar links) in an attempt to silence an unknown, nagging clunk back there… no success unfortunately. The car has always had a few weird, minor noises, and they seem to be increasing steadily with time. Overall, we remain quite happy but are still planning on replacing in the next year when it hits 180k or so (barring any unforeseen calamities, economic collapse, etc). The climate controls and Sync stuff have always been a pain of course but, mechanically, our Cmax has been a very reliable vehicle—fun to drive too and lots of interior space!

@Roadguyser good to know, thanks for the FB. We're at just over 158K now with no major problems, although mpgs have steadily crept downwards, year by year, which is probably to be expected. Anyway, hoping to make it well into 2025 and then replace at that point!

Just crossed over 152,000 miles, with no major engine or transmission issues. Our primary usage is commuting about 25 miles/day on city roads and highways, with the occasional cross-country road-trip, once or twice a year. I'm definitely staying on top of all maintenance, best I can... here's hoping we get another few years of reliability!

Interesting, thanks for chiming in. So your original trans made it to just 99K? What prompted the replacement at that point? Did it totally fail or just start sounding like the end was near?

Appreciate both of you sharing your experience, homestead and fbov. (Data from those service records was very interesting!) Any other ~2013 Cmax hybrid owners on this forum that have hit, say, 150,000 miles or more, without a major transmission or powertrain failure? Would like to hear from any of those folks, if possible. Thanks! ?

I wasn't aware of a possible transmission failure (or, have forgotten!), but that is a little concerning. After doing a bit of research, the reman automatic transmission options specified in the TSB start at about $3400 and top out around $4200, not to mention the 12hrs of projected labor cost. (I do all of my own repair work, but I know that late model vehicles are often not DIY-friendly.) Still, we haven't noticed any of the rubbing/grinding/thumping symptoms that are described. Maybe there's a hefty percentage of unaffected vehicles out there?

Our white SEL has been in the family since Day 1 and is well-maintained with about 139K miles. Mostly, it's used for my wife's 20-min commute to work, as well as the occasional road trip, once or twice a year. It's had very few issues and runs/drives beautifully. I've had a lot of Hondas and Toyotas in the past and am pretty comfortable guesstimating their useful life—before regular breakdowns occur or some catastrophic drivetrain event totals the vehicle. But, this is a different animal, since it is a Ford and because it's a hybrid with new-ish technology for its day. I'm curious about the expected lifespan of this vehicle and would like to hear some educated opinions (even real world experience?) about how many miles these cars can go, before it's prudent to start shopping for a replacement. P.S. I know that experience can vary greatly (for instance, I also have a 97 Explorer that is still running with 240K on the original 4.0 SOHC and tranny... how?!!!). So, I'm mostly just looking for a very general, approximate range for planning/budgeting purposes.

Just some follow-up after 10 months and several thousand miles of driving: no CELs have ever appeared again and no sign of misfires. New injectors did the trick, 100%.

I guess my thread on a similar issue has already been posted here, up above, but I'll go head and do a quick recap of what I would do if I came up against P219A and P0304 codes or similar... 1) Pull the upper intake assembly and check spark plugs and coil packs. Plugs are easy to check/replace, and the four coil packs can each be checked for proper resistance with multimeter. Make sure plug wires and coil packs are properly, firmly reconnected. 2) If plugs and coil packs are good, run some good quality injector cleaner through the system. Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant was recommended and seems to be good stuff (helped clear my codes, at least temporarily, and I still use it on a 6-month basis). 3) If codes continue to indicate a misfire on one or more cylinders—and you have 100,000+ miles on the vehicle—purchase four of the OEM Motorcraft injectors for your engine and replace them all by removing the intake assembly, unplugging coil packs and other wiring, and pulling the fuel rail (not a terribly difficult job if you've got some tools and any mechanical experience). Be careful to blow off dust/debris with compressed air before removing the fuel rail and do not let anything fall in the injector holes! 4) If none of the above helps, I would also lean towards a possible wiring harness problem (like Zathrus has already detailed).

Got a few more of those Motorcraft injectors and replaced the remaining 3 last week. Hopefully that will be the end of misfire CELs... so far, so good. For those of you who are considering injector replacement: total cost for repair should run about $128.15 (4 OEM injectors + shipping from RockAuto.com). Side-note: having had the big plastic intake assembly off of this thing multiple times, looking at the coils, plugs, and injectors, I've gotten pretty quick with the teardown/reinstall process, and it's really not a difficult job to replace the injectors. No special tools were needed. Fuel rail is right there on the front, with easy access, once you remove all the various connections and wire harnesses on top. Make sure to blow away any dust/dirt really carefully with compressed air, before removing the two retaining bolts and pulling the rail!

The misfire saga continues... P219A code has not returned for many months and seems to have been solved. However, P0304 continues to pop up occasionally, despite repeated doses of the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant. As a next step, since P0304 indicates a problem with cylinder 4, I pulled the fuel rail and replaced #4 injector (the one on the far right, when standing at the front of the vehicle, looking at the engine bay). Can anyone confirm that this is definitely the cylinder referenced in the P0304 code? While I had the injectors out, I checked all of their resistance values and noticed that the injector on the far left (opposite end from the one I replaced) was slightly below the Ohm specification range. Would like to have replaced them all, since we've got about 120K miles on the vehicle and it's standard practice to do so, but I was only able to get my hands on one Motorcraft CM-5148 on short notice, and the vehicle was needed the following day. Car continues to drive great, with no apparent loss in power, and absolutely no loss in mileage. I've already checked the spark plugs (replaced at 100K dealer service) and torqued them correctly. Also tested the coil pack resistances—all were within spec and very similar to one another. So, in summary: replaced one injector last week, then did a few days of driving, and the P0304 code is back on. Suggestions and comments welcome... ?

Coil packs all tested fine, plugs looked good, and injectors were all firing the same (based on stethoscope test). Ended up trying out the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant, and it seems to have done the trick: no more CELs for a couple months now. Also, we’ve seen mpgs increase by a few 10ths, which has never happed in the past on this car (always a long, very slow decline). I intend to use fuel injection cleaner regularly in the future, now that I know this vehicle seems to definitely benefit from it.

UPDATE: we’ve run 2 bottles of Techron through over the last few weeks. Code cleared itself at one point but CEL came on again two days ago: P219A again, but P0304 now, too. P0304 - engine misfire on cylinder 4 Tonight I’m going to start on a tune up, also testing coil packs, especially on Cyl. 4. (P.S. This is my thread and I’ve checked “Notify me of replies...” but still never get any notice when a new post is made here. ???)

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I'll start by running some Techron through and making sure the plugs are torqued appropriately. It the code continues, I'll probably start looking at O2 sensors (upstream/downstream) as well as the fuel injectors themselves.

Appreciate that info and the attachment you posted. Lots to read and study in there (and sounds like a scanner SW upgrade will be helpful). Overall, I’m not coming across a great deal of repair info out there for these cars, not like many cars I’ve owned in the past anyway. Maybe folks just go the dealer route, 99% of the time, with the C-Max? Interesting. AllDataDIY seems to have a good deal on a 5-year subscription to repair info for this vehicle, so I might go that route. Anybody else care to weigh-in on the P219A dtc?