hunt3rj2

There is no warranty replacement for capacity fade, but there is warranty coverage for failed batteries. So what the warranty really means is that you will only be covered for battery replacements if it fades so badly that it causes a functional issue with the car like codes thrown for BECM issues, hybrid mode not functioning, etc. The line for that is supposedly 3.8 kWh.

You could flush the HF35 transmission but why? The instant you release the drain plug a big gush of fluid carrying whatever wear metals are in there will come out. If you look at a teardown of the transmission there's no hydraulic control passages/clutches/fluid filters/etc like a normal automatic. It's more like a manual transmission, just some gears in there and not much else. The electric motors are responsible for changing the gear ratio, the rpm of MG1 changes the effective gearing depending on how fast the car is moving. I would do it at 100k but 150k is probably fine too. The transfer shaft failures mentioned on the forum probably cannot be prevented with more frequent fluid changes. Only way to fix the issue is to catch it before the bearings fail and allow the transfer shaft to wobble in the transmission and grind away at everything else in the transmission. Then you have to rebuild the transmission with the updated parts listed in the TSB. Or a new transmission entirely.

Try resetting the BECM. If that fails next step on the FSM is to replace the BECM.

https://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/4657-obd-code-pd0dd1/?tab=comments#comment-28265 Different car, but the powertrains are basically identical. Sounds like a BECM failure if it doesn't go away after clearing the code or maybe power cycling the BECM.

I noticed in the factory service manual that there is no proper/safe central floor jack point listed for these cars. I find this very strange considering every car I've ever worked on has listed some kind of specially designed floor jack point in the front and rear so you can safely jack up the front of the car, put the jack stands on the pinch welds in the designated area (with appropriate pinch weld adapters), then lower the jack so the car sits on the jack stands. This also makes it possible to safely raise all 4 corners of the car, usually by raising the front half to the lowest jack stand position, then the rear, then repeating the process until the car is high enough to work under comfortably. It's clear to me that Ford did not really care about whether someone using a floor jack is able to lift the car safely, which is why it makes no mention of anything other than the scissor jack/two-post lift points. After a lot of research I noticed that some Ford Focus cars with the Duratec (often older) have a "dogbone" that connects the transmission to the subframe as the central floor jack point for the front half of the car. This is often listed as the factory approved floor jack point in those cars. Looking under the CMax it does in fact have this same exact point. I believe if you use a thick rubber puck to properly engage the divot and avoid marring the bolt that connects this transmission mount to the subframe you will be able to safely use this as a front jack point. It pretty much connects directly from the subframe to the chassis with solid metal at every point between the subframe and chassis, so I'm confident that it won't bend the subframe if you use this point: The center of this picture with a large bolt appears to be the transmission mount I'm speaking of. It may be hard to get to it without some ramps to get the car higher to clear a floor jack. I am doing more research into what could be a safe jack point for the rear at this time, I'm not sure yet but it appears to me that the rear subframe may be the only way as well. The problem is that I have found some people mentioning that jacking on this crossmember can dent or bend it, so it may be necessary to use some kind of load spreader like a wooden plank or block to avoid damaging it. I would appreciate if someone could chime in with their experiences here.

The core concept of the power split device/eCVT transmission is extremely simple and durable as others have said. The Priuses out there have never, ever had issues with transmissions despite long fluid change intervals or no fluid change interval at all. The Ford hybrids that used an Aisin eCVT were not known for transmission failures. The HF35's problem is entirely down to poor execution on the part of Ford. I would have to check the EPC to be sure but I'm willing to bet that the 2013-2016 MY cars have different part numbers for transmission components compared to 2017+ MY, they explicitly say that 8/2015 is the cutoff for the cars that could be affected by transmission failures.

Sounds like it's entirely electrical. Coolant temperature high, battery control module reporting invalid messages, stuff of that nature. Start looking for ground wires that are failing, that can often cause weird behavior like what you're seeing.

You most likely got what I would describe as counterfeit injectors. Even if they technically are not, ECUs are extremely sensitive to fuel injector characteristics. It's not enough to just match flow rate at 3 bar differential pressure and have it hook up to the fuel rail and intake the same way.